Step 5: Step 2a: lead bending & soldering - C1, C2, C3

Figure 1 is an illustration (x-ray view from front side of circuit board) of how the parts are to be arranged and wired together. Don't worry, we'll go through things step-by-step.

Start by wiring the ground leads of C1, C2, and C3 to pin 7 of the DIP socket. This will form a sort of "ground bus", anchor the capacitors, and get some of the wires out of the way. Then connect C1 to R1, C2 to R2, and C3 to R3 as shown schematically in Figure 2 and as seen from the rear side of the board in Figure 3.

you could just buy one from <a href="http://www.thinkgeek.com" rel="nofollow">www.thinkgeek.com</a><br />
Thaw would be boring ;)
True true :P
This is great! Do you have a video?
Nope. I don't have a video of the construction process nor of the device in operation. I don't think I have a sample device anymore. Gave it away.
Apparently the original tribbles had windup motors from clockwork toys in them - no electronics at all - the sound effects were put in afterwards (and I'm not even particularly interested in Star Trek!)
Could you clarify?<br><br>Tuning is managed by means of capacitance alone, or a combination of capacitance and resistance? Seems they should be interdependent values and some alteration might be achieved by means of preset variable resistors.<br><br>I have a slightly different project in mind and something that makes wibbly-wobbly noises at different tones and frequencies would be fun.
Yes, timing (or oscillation period) is proportional to the product of R and C: T ~ RC.<br><br>However, it is best to go with small C and big R for a given T because the cost of a resistor is basically independent of its resistance value while the cost of capacitors generally is higher for higher values of capacitance. Also, it is better to use low precision resistors (20%, if they are even still made) for this project because they are both cheaper and have more &quot;character&quot;.<br><br>None of the electronics in this project are intended to be precision in any way. After all, we don't want Tribble clones, do we? (Yeah, yeah, they are born pregnant, I know. But they weren't all identical in the show.)<br>
they also make good watch dogs for Klingons &nbsp;
Oooo!!! I lke the tribbles they make some peple laugh but they are great to have if you dont feel good kinda like a shmoo
it's not going to multiply and eat all my quadrotriticaley (cerial made of wheat)? is it?
Welder Guy, Multiplication may well be an hazard with these as they are built of NAND gates. AND is the primitive for the binary multiplication operation. It would only take two of the NAND gates that go into this beast to make a simple 1x1 multiplier: one for the A, B inputs (with NOT AB out), and the second NAND as an inverter to make the output AB instead of NOT AB. Of course, in the "authentic" Tribble configuration both A and B inputs would be tied, perhaps via a suitable RC delay, to V+ (they're born pregnant, you know). I make no warranties for the safety of your quadrotriticaley. David
i'm sorry dude but i have no idea what you just said in the paragraph. i understand electronics and electricity well but i don't understand gates. i'm still reading about it
whos the cute chick in the uniform! i love star trek
My wife. She says "thanks for the compliment."
Nice electronics, but I missed that episode of Star Trek. What were the treibles? Just furry, purry things that breed like rabbits?
Unit042, Yup. The episode was called "The Trouble With Tribbles" and it was in the original series. David
Oh. I was born in 1991, but my dad watches it because it comes on TV for free. I never liked it because there was hardly ever any starship fighting, and when there was, the Enterprise would be beat up and chased away by ships half it's size(70%, 40%, 10%, need more power to the sissy shields, scotty!). Oh, and Kirk is so stupid the way he constantly beams himself onto unknown planets and always gets taken hostage along with his entire bridge crew... does he WANT to die?!? But I'm ranting. My favorite episode/movie was the wrath of kahn (I think it's somewhere on the movie shelf....) because of the knock down drag out fight that the starships had. Didn't like the ear worm/leeches much--yuck.
Unit042, Yeah, the original series did have quite a number of irritating things about it. But, at the same time, its many of those same irritation points that give it the high campyness factor that is so enjoyable. Also -- and I guess this is probably true for many "old school" Trek fans -- I grew up watching the show and when I see old episodes from it I remember more than just the show itself. David
Campyness? I've not heard that one before.
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://tv.msn.com/tv/">http://tv.msn.com/tv/</a> has most of the old Star Trek episodes. I don't know if tribbles are there but it is worth a look for Trek fans.<br/>
duckythescientist, Thanks for the pointer. David
For the AND-ing, you could have used three transistors/MOSFETs in series with a high resistance, well, resistor going to GND, to provide a low while all MOSFETs/transistors are off. PS: as of this second, I've only gotten to step 1, but this looks like cool electronics, with oscillator modulating. i think I might try something like this.
Unit042, You are correct. I looked at using one of the CMOS ICs (I think its the 4007) that have simple transistors on them but decided that it would add another whole chip. There are pretty much an unlimited number of ways to build this three oscillator device. This version is probably about the 5th significant design variation I've used. It all started out with three cascaded 555s. David
Yeah, so many ways to skin a cat. I don't care which way is used, as long as the cat's skin comes off.
WOW great instructible this is how everyone should do it. Great job!!! A++++
GWJax, Thank you for the acknowledgment! Heh, I just worry that if I make another instructable that it won't come up to the standard I seem to have set for myself. The trick is to do the project twice and write the instructable on the second assembly so you know in advance what is going to be tricky or need added detail. Anyway, that's what I did with this one. David
Well I guess you just have to do the next project 3 or 4 times to get better then, just kidding it's still great! Still would like to see more but if this is the last then it must go into my favs. hehe you hould have put this into the robotics contest befour it closed. maybe next time. Jax
Jax, I don't anticipate this'll be my one-and-only contribution to the Instructables site. Hmm, robotics contest, eh? I guess the fur would have really flown. David
Very nice, well-written Instructable, the informative kind that makes this site so interesting. Loved the stone knives and bearskins reference, too.
Great instuctable...this would make a great gag hair piece...kinda looks like my uncles...lol
Great job! Now THIS is what an instructable should look like. Excellent documentation, lots of pictures and detailed drawings to explain, and in-depth detail in the text on a somewhat complex subject without being boring. This is magazine quality, in my opinion.
Retro, Thanks for the positive review. I was not sure what the correct level of detail would be (its my first Instructables posting). Glad I got it right. I have the instructions in "article" format already since I wrote them offline and then posted them part-by-part on the site. If any magazine is interested in them (MAKE, are you listening?) they need but ask. David
Yay Tribbles! This is quite like a kind of stuffed toy I make, although much more sophisticated. Mine is <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Big-Warm-Fuzzy-Secret-Heart/">here</a> - it is merely a cell phone vibrator motor activated by a fabric pressure switch, so does not have nearly the character yours does, but it's the same family. My friend and I even taught a workshop on making these simple ones, at the recent <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.makerfaire.com/">Maker Faire</a>.<br/><br/>Another more fanciful related toy is the <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Snailbot-Races/">Snailbot</a> (original by <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/snailbot">Evil Mad Scientist</a>).<br/><br/>I've also made a more complicated Tribble using a Qprox touch sensor chip and a wire antenna sewn to the inside of the fur covering. The touch sensor works, I believe, similarly to your variable capacitor (my understanding is that it's a capacitance sensor), and I used the same tiny vibrator motor which in this case is triggered when the Tribble is petted. I don't have an instructable on that as I only made one so far and it was kind of sloppy; I took it apart to see what I'd done so I could make another, and that's where THAT project is at just now. I do plan to write it up when I make the next one.<br/><br/>I will probably have to make yours, too, just to round out my Tribble-making powers (I will post a picture). The instructions look super clear and detailed! It will also help improve my electronics knowledge which is still pretty small. <br/>
I love how Kurk got rid of the Tribble problem. Scotty: "Well, we beamed them to the klingons ship cap'tn"
I have a commercial variation one that was called a<em> Dreeble</em>, it came out in the 80's I think. It had 3 switches inside and if you pressed lightly it purred, too hard(more then one switch activated) it squealed. Looks just like that one too (but how do you tell one Tribble from another?)<br/>
nnygamer, I remember those. Didn't get one. David
David: Cool stuff! (Nostalgic comments w.r.t. 40xx-series CMOS elided...). Have you tried making a variable "squashable" resistor out of black conductive foam? (You would eliminate C4 and put the foam in series with R3.) As often as not, you get the foam for free with the CMOS part, which is in keeping with the elegantly minimalist approach of your design. - ff
ff, Nope, I've not tried making a variable "squashable" resistor out of black conductive foam for the third oscillator stage. Let me know how it works out if you give it a try. A few of my earliest Tribbles had a FET as part of the third oscillator stage. The FET's gate was connected to an "antenna" that responded to the presence of external electric fields (such as found on people) and would change the oscillator's pitch. These early models also had a switch in them to bypass the pushbutton and leave the Tribble on continuously (or to lock it off). The behavior of the FET circuit was amusing when the Tribble was left on. At first it would purr in its regular "breathing" cycle but, as the charge on the antenna leaked off, it would settle down to a sort of quiet "snoring". If someone then went near it the Tribble would suddenly "wake up" and revert to its regular purring / breathing cycle. Almost like a living pet. I think I still have the first one I built somewhere (lost in an unlabeled box out in the garage, no doubt) and it has a FET circuit in it. David
Nice! One observation - one of your R3s in the layout drawings s/b R4 ...
ncorison, Thanks for catching that. I've fixed it. David
<em>Back in the late 70s, when I was in high school, I used to build these and give them to girls I had a liking for. I even managed to get a date or two..</em><br/><br/>Heeheehee. Great job on this. It's how electronic instructables <em>should</em> be done.<br/>

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