Seriously, standby mode sucks (power). So I decided to help out. By re-wiring the switch from the power strip under my desk up to a box on top of the desk, it is now easily accessible. Every morning I turn the key to deliver electricity to my computer, hard drives, speakers, and monitor, and every night, I turn the key the other way, cutting power to my appliances, thereby foiling their attempts to raise the energy bill. It works great! Please comment, rate, and VOTE!
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Signing UpStep 1: Supplies
Parts
- Power Strip with LED indicator (that you don't mind hacking up a little)
- Key switch (Jameco #106650)
- 3 mm LED
- Small project box (Radioshack catalog #270-1801)
- Cable wrap (Jameco #1585531)*
- 115VAC-capable wire*
- Relatively thin wire for LED*
- Small heat-shrink tubing
- 2 small zip-ties
- Thin metal plate (fits where switch and LED were on power strip)
- Velcro strip
- Gorilla Glue and/or superglue
- Electrical tape
*needs to be long enough to go in between power strip and box location
Tools
- X-acto knife
- Soldering iron w/ solder
- Heat gun
- Wire cutter/stripper
- Desoldering pump
- Dremel
- Tin snips
- Large-ish clamps
- Drill with various drill bits












































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Whether it's 115V or 240V please please be bloody careful. A shock does NOT feel good, and I say that from experience unfortunately.
still gunna try this though bahahaha
Under normal circumstances, a CMOS battery lasts for years because it is only used when there is no power to the tower, like during a power outage, but with this setup, you will drain it much faster as it is being drained for 8 or so hours every night. You will almost negate your savings on the electric bill with the cost of replacement CMOS batteries. They aren't cheap.
It is a very tidy bit of design. I like it.
I just didn't understand it, and I do now. Here the mains switch is next to the plug, so you stick an appliance (or and extension if the appliance is inaccessible) in the socket on the wall and flip a switch.
That said, I have power running to mine all the time, even when the PC itself is off (which I know is wasteful).
In the case of a PC which won't boot down because of some crash or sometjing freezing, my PC comes with a kill switch on the back (and I have my tower mounted on the wall sideways, so that I can reach everything on the back and on the front.
Best Wishes, omnivaal
-Peter
Like this:
\/ /\ \/ /\ \/
The arrow-type things are the direction of the toggle switches.
I find my modem to take the most power when not in use, it has no standby mode and takes many minutes to reconect if it gets powered down.
Some Computers use the standby power to offset the battery power, so the few cents you save on AC power may cause a bigger cost in battery replacement.
The one computer desk I have has a split power bar built in, 1/2 is switched at the front, and 1/2 is live all the times. This is handy to turn off speakers and printers that do not need to be on all day.
Your Idea is good, and saving energy is good. The use of splitloom for 110 volt wire protector, not so much as far as UL and CSA. Keep it safe.....
So, the Mac Pro utilizes a maximum of 1,440 watts given the nominal voltage where I am (Oregon) is 120 volts.