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Embossed velvet is striking and beautiful. Images are sunk into the pile of the velvet so that you get a textural as well as visual effect. The images often also take on an iridescent quality.
Embossing velvet is easier than one might think...
The embossed images are created using heat, producing sunken and iridescent images that can appear shadowy or very reflective depending upon the angle and the folds and fall of the fabric - that is why it can be so tricky to photograph them. Parts of an image may appear "shadowed" while other parts shimmer.
The images are resilient. I have embossed acetate/rayon velvet scarves that I have worn all winter long for several years. They get wet from snow, sleet and rain; get scrunched up, rolled up, sat upon, etc., and the images are still there, even if they are not as crisp as they used to be. I am not recommending this type of treatment, but mention it to give an idea of how the images can last.
It appears that impressing images into velvet using heat may have been around since at least the 16th century. Metal was heated and pressed to the velvet. In the 1990's, Mary O'Neil of Hot Potatoes stamps popularized the use of rubber stamps for the process. For use at home, rubber stamps are obviously easier and safer to use than hot metal.
Care of the resulting velvet: Dry clean only. As with most velvets, the fabric may develop shiny spots if spot-treated or excessively rubbed. Washing/soaking the velvet could result in an uneven look to the velvet (shiny and dark areas) and could loosen the pressed fibers of the images, causing them to appear ghostly and blurry.
Uses for Embossed Velvet: Embossed velvet can be used for clothing and accessories (jackets, bags/purses, scarves, shawls, robes, shirts, dresses, skirts, hats, earmuffs, mittens, cowls, slippers, etc.), as well as items for the home and gifts (throws, curtains, pillows, sachets, runners, wall hangings, upholstery, boxes, ornaments, jewelry and gift bags, journal covers, etc.).
More info and images on my site: inklingsandimprints.net. Images are also up on Flickr. My partner and I designed all of the stamps shown in this tutorial. They are available on our website.
Text and images are copyrighted by Inklings and Imprints. All rights reserved.
Embossing velvet is easier than one might think...
The embossed images are created using heat, producing sunken and iridescent images that can appear shadowy or very reflective depending upon the angle and the folds and fall of the fabric - that is why it can be so tricky to photograph them. Parts of an image may appear "shadowed" while other parts shimmer.
The images are resilient. I have embossed acetate/rayon velvet scarves that I have worn all winter long for several years. They get wet from snow, sleet and rain; get scrunched up, rolled up, sat upon, etc., and the images are still there, even if they are not as crisp as they used to be. I am not recommending this type of treatment, but mention it to give an idea of how the images can last.
It appears that impressing images into velvet using heat may have been around since at least the 16th century. Metal was heated and pressed to the velvet. In the 1990's, Mary O'Neil of Hot Potatoes stamps popularized the use of rubber stamps for the process. For use at home, rubber stamps are obviously easier and safer to use than hot metal.
Care of the resulting velvet: Dry clean only. As with most velvets, the fabric may develop shiny spots if spot-treated or excessively rubbed. Washing/soaking the velvet could result in an uneven look to the velvet (shiny and dark areas) and could loosen the pressed fibers of the images, causing them to appear ghostly and blurry.
Uses for Embossed Velvet: Embossed velvet can be used for clothing and accessories (jackets, bags/purses, scarves, shawls, robes, shirts, dresses, skirts, hats, earmuffs, mittens, cowls, slippers, etc.), as well as items for the home and gifts (throws, curtains, pillows, sachets, runners, wall hangings, upholstery, boxes, ornaments, jewelry and gift bags, journal covers, etc.).
More info and images on my site: inklingsandimprints.net. Images are also up on Flickr. My partner and I designed all of the stamps shown in this tutorial. They are available on our website.
Text and images are copyrighted by Inklings and Imprints. All rights reserved.
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Signing UpStep 1What you will need
- Iron (with Teflon iron shoe/cover, if possible). A clean, smooth and relatively steam-hole free surface area is best.
- Velvet: acetate/rayon blend is best. Rayon, silk/rayon blend or silk can work. (I have more info on what types of velvet work best and what safety issues there may be with certain velvets.)
- Water misting/spritzing bottle
- Stamp backed with mounting cushion at least 1/8 inch thick, no mounting block needed. Notes on stamps. The stamp used in this tutorial is our Celtic Knotwork Triangle Stamp. We have it available trimmed and mounted on cling cushion, as shown - full or partial sets - or as uncut and unmounted full or partial sets.
- Iron-safe surface
Always do some test swatches for each type of velvet you use so you can vary spritzing, iron temperature, etc.
- Velvet: acetate/rayon blend is best. Rayon, silk/rayon blend or silk can work. (I have more info on what types of velvet work best and what safety issues there may be with certain velvets.)
- Water misting/spritzing bottle
- Stamp backed with mounting cushion at least 1/8 inch thick, no mounting block needed. Notes on stamps. The stamp used in this tutorial is our Celtic Knotwork Triangle Stamp. We have it available trimmed and mounted on cling cushion, as shown - full or partial sets - or as uncut and unmounted full or partial sets.
- Iron-safe surface
Always do some test swatches for each type of velvet you use so you can vary spritzing, iron temperature, etc.
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Cheers!
Since I'm not sure, I will have to say that it "may be" possible that the steps I outline could emboss velour, but I would have concerns about safety and effectiveness. (Just because something can be done in a factory, does not mean it should be tried at home!)
You would want to be positive about the fiber content of the fabric, as some fibers can melt or catch fire if concentrated heat is applied. See this page on my site for details: http://inklingsandimprints.net/pages/velvetcontent.phphttp://inklingsandimprints.net/pages/velvetcontent.php
If you are positive that you have a velour that doesn't contain any materials that can't withstand heat, I would still do a number of test swatches, starting with the iron on a bit lower than I normally recommend, just in case. Be sure to have good ventilation and move any flammables away from the work area.
Do let me know your results - I'd be interested either way!
Cheers
Because lace is only so thick, I would think that it would be very hard (or impossible) to get a crisp, consistent or complete transfer of the lace pattern. I think you could get some very lovely patterns, though, that would sort of fade in and out a bit.
Again, do be aware of the content of the lace, though. Anything with nylon or some other petroleum-based material might lead to some nasty sticky, smokey, chokey surprises!
If you do try it, let me know - I'd be very interested in the results.
Cheers!