Welcome to this Instructable on how to make an awesome-looking mushroom light! I had this idea after taking part in last year's Make It Glow contest with my Shard Light instructable, and I'm excited to be taking part again this year with these mushroom lights.

If you think this Instructable deserves a chance in the competition, don't forget to vote for it by pressing the vote button up top. Cheers!

As you can see, these mushroom lights are really charming. They're powered by three AA batteries, are easy to make, and are - above all - FUN!

Ready to build one? Let's go!

Step 1: Materials and Tools

You'll need the following tools:

  1. Scissors
  2. Wire cutters
  3. Soldering iron and solder
  4. Cling-film (plastic wrap)
  5. Power drill

And the following materials:

  1. Battery box for 3x AA batteries, with built in switch
  2. Thin electrical wire (red and black)
  3. Driftwood (or dried bark etc)
  4. LEDs
  5. Resistors (their value depends on the LEDs you use. See step 3 for more info)
  6. Watercolour paints
  7. Clear silicone (can be found in most DIY stores)

Step 2: Getting Inspired & Choosing the Right LEDs

There are so many possibilities with these lights. You can make them any colour, size, or type you like!

It helps to have a look at pictures of actual mushrooms for inspiration. Take a look at how they grow, and their formations. Because of the technique we'll be using, our mushrooms should look quite varied and organic.

When choosing the LEDs for the project, choose colours that are close to the colour your final mushrooms are going to be. For example, if you're making a red mushroom, go with a red or warm white LED. If you're going with a white mushroom, go with a pure white LED etc. Once you've selected your LEDs, move on to step 3.

Step 3: Choosing a Resistor for Your LEDs

This project uses 3x AA batteries to power the LEDs. As they're connected up in series within the battery pack, the voltage ends up at 4.5v (each battery being rated at 1.5v). This is too high for most LEDs to cope with, and would probably burn them out after a short time if we were to attach them directly to the battery pack.

So, what we need to do is drop the voltage down so that it's within the safe voltage range of the LEDs. To do this we're going to use a resistor in series with each LED. The value of the resistor depends on the type of LED, but typically, using a 4.5v power pack, the values are as follows:

WARM WHITE----56ohm

Want to know how I ended up at these values? Well, the topic is actually a little complex if you're new to it, so I'll try to explain as clearly as possible. Skip to the next step if you know this already, or are happy going with the values noted above.

So, why does adding a resistor help stop the LED from frying? Well, adding a resistor stops the power from flowing through the LED quite as easily. This means that the voltage drops. How much it drops depends on how much power the LED uses - the more power the LED uses, the lower the voltage goes.

The formula for working this out is:

R = (Vs - Vl) / I

We can of course just use a calculator. But that's boring. Let's learn how to do it manually instead so we have an understanding on what's going on.

Basically, R stands for the resistor value (which we're working out), Vs stands for the power source voltage (4.5v in our case), and VL stands for the LED voltage. Lastly, I stands for the LED power draw (current).

So, let's assume we have an LED which is rated at 2.5v and draws a current of 20mA (mA stands for milliamps, and must be converted to plain old amps (A) by moving the decimal three places to the left).

So we substitute Vs with 4.5, VL with 2.5, and I with .02

R = (4.5 - 2.5)/.02

R = 2/.02

R = 100

For those of you who don't like equations:

4.5 - 2.5 = 2

2 ÷ .02 = 100

So we need a resistor rated at 100ohms. Simple!

So, with this you can work out precisely what resistor value you need, depending on the voltage and mA rating of your LED, which should be listed by the store. If not, just assume the LED uses 20mA and use this chart to find out the voltage:

  • RED ----------------- 1.8V
  • YELLOW ----------- 2.1V
  • GREEN ------------- 2.1V
  • BLUE ---------------- 3.4V
  • WHITE -------------- 3.4V
  • WARM WHITE ---- 3.4V

So you've made it to the bottom of the page. Well done, here's a digital high-five:


Step 4: Wiring Up the LEDs

So now we've got the resistors for our LEDs it's time to wire them up.

First we need to trim down the legs of the LED using a pair of scissors, and solder a resistor to the positive leg. The positive leg is the one that goes to the smaller plate inside the LED, and is called the anode. The larger plate is the cathode, and is negative.

Don't trim down the resistor legs, as their stiffness provides support for the mushroom stem, and means you can bend it into different positions when it's finished.

Lastly we need to solder a black wire to the negative leg of the LED (the cathode), and a red wire to the other end of the resistor. When done we can twist the wires together to keep things neat.

Step 5: Broadening the Beam

The round domes on LEDs focus the light into quite a narrow beam. This isn't great for this project because it would mean that only a small circle on top of the mushroom would be lit up.

Thankfully it's pretty easy to broaden an LEDs beam by simply chopping off the end of the lens with wire cutters. Be careful not to chop it off to close too the plates and damage them, however!

An alternative is to use wide-beam LEDs, which already have flat heads, or even surface mount LEDs (like in the last picture). The latter do require a little more soldering skill, and the LEDs can be a little hard to find, but they do give a superior result, so I do recommend them if you're up for it.

Once you've got all your LEDs soldered up, it's time to mix some silicone!

Step 6: Mixing the Silicone

We're going to use clear silicone for the stems and mushroom domes, which means that they'll be flexible and partly transparent.

The silicone I chose was just multipurpose contractors silicone, and it's intended for sealing edges in bathrooms and kitchens etc. It's extremely cheap at around £1.25 ($2ish) and there's enough in the tube to make a whole forest of mushrooms!

When working with it be careful not to get it on your clothes or on the carpet. It's not water-based so you'll only be able to get it off using white spirit. Also, make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after you've finished working with it.

So, what to mix it with? Well, I recommend just using a flat head screwdriver, as when dried the silicone can be peeled off it easily.

So blob a bit of silicone into a plastic container, and mix it with a tiny bit of watercolour paint of your choice. Try not to add too much paint at once, as the more you add the less transparent the final result. Just add in the paint gradually, and feel free to mix different paints together to get the colour you want. Be creative!

Step 7: Making the Stem

So after you've mixed your first batch of silicone, place one of the LEDs onto a piece of plastic food wrap and then splodge some silicone on top of it.

Now you can fold the plastic wrap over, with the LED on the folded edge. Use your fingers to mold the silicone around the resistor and wires. Because it's on the edge of the fold it should be pretty easy to get a smooth finish.

Leave it to dry for around 2-3 hours (though this will vary depending on the silicone brand) and then peel off the plastic wrap. You now have a mushroom stem! Because of the resistor inside, you can bend it and it retains its shape. Very cool!

Now let's make the mushroom domes...

Step 8: Making the Domes

Making the domes is very similar to the stems. Mix some more silicone, and then splodge it onto more plastic wrap.

Now place another piece of plastic wrap on top, and use your fingers to again mold the silicone into a mushroom dome shape. Pinch from the outside inwards to get a good defined edge.

To help get the domed shape, place it upside down into a cup and press downwards a little. Alternatively, you can try wrapping it partly around a small bouncy ball.

Once you think you're done, hold it up to the light to see how the light transmits through it. As you can see in the fifth picture, mine has a curved bright patch in the middle. If there's something similar on yours, just mold it some more with your fingers until you're happy with how it looks. Above all, don't make the dome too thick or else the light from the LED won't be able to shine through it.

After leaving it to dry, peel off the plastic wrap and use some scissors to clean up the edges. Note how the plastic wrap leaves creases on the surface. It's looking very organic! It almost looks edible... but then, not all mushrooms are good for you, so don't.

Now let's prepare the base so we can 'plant' our mushrooms!

Step 9: Planting the Stems

For the base you can use anything you like really, as long as it can be drilled. I'm going to use some driftwood, as it should look quite pretty with some mushrooms growing out of it.

All we need to do is drill some holes into the base that are big enough for the stems to slot in to. Positioning is quite important, so try and mimic now real mushrooms grow by making clusters, and drilling the holes at different angles. Make sure you drill all the way through!

Once you've drilled all the holes, thread the stem wires through and follow it with a blob of silicone. Push the stem and silicone down into the hole, and wipe off any excess.

Step 10: Gluing on the Domes (method 1)

Mounting the dome too close to the LED results in a bright spot in the center of the dome, so we need to make sure there's sufficient space between the dome and the LED for the light to be distributed more evenly.

There's more than one way to do this. For small mushroom domes, you can simply put a blob of silicone inside it and place it carefully on top of the LED, without pressing it down. The silicone acts as a spacer between the LED and the dome, and means that the light is distributed evenly. It also sticks the two together.

Step 11: Gluing on the Domes (method 2)

Another way to mount the domes, which is my personal favourite, is to use thin tissue paper in conjunction with silicone blobs. This is best suited for medium sized domes, and it also looks great when viewed from underneath, mimicking the underside of a real mushroom.

To make it, simply use a single layer of tissue and bunch its corners inwards so it is the same shape as the dome. Then glue it in place with a large blob of silicone so that it's just slightly concaved. Leave it to dry and then glue it to the LED with, you guessed it, silicone.

Not only does the tissue help you to fill a larger space, but it also helps to distribute the light more evenly, and reflects some of it down onto the stalk and base.

Step 12: Gluing on the Domes (method 3)

The third and final method to mount the domes is to shape some wire into a support. This can be a bit fiddly, and doesn't look very good if you ever glimpse it from underneath, so only use it if your mushroom domes are particularly large.

The wire can be crimped onto the top of the stalk to keep it in place, while the dome can be glued to the outer edge.

Step 13: Wiring Up the Battery Pack

So the last step is to wire up the battery pack. As the battery pack has a built in switch, we don't need to add one ourselves.

So trim down the LED wires, and twist the all the positive wires into a set, and all the negative wires into a set. You can then solder the positive set to the battery pack's positive wire, and the negative set to the pack's negative wire.

The polarity of the battery pack's wires should be marked with either a white line (meaning it's positive) or by colour (red being positive). After they're soldered together, use some electrical tape to first wind around the solder joints to prevent shorts, and then to bind them together making it nice and neat.

Now it's time to try them out!

Step 14: Completion

As you can see, they look great! Remember, the sky's the limit with these mushroom lights. You can make ghostly white mushrooms, or luminous green ones. You can even mix in glitter and make a magical one!

Have fun making your own mushrooms! Feel free to share your creations by posting a photo in the comments section!

Remember, if you liked this Instructable and think it deserves a chance in the competition, don't forget to press that 'vote' button up top! Thanks!

<p>I HAVE AN URGENT WARNING FOR ALL OF YOU ABOUT THE USE OF CERTAIN SILICONE PRODUCTS PLEASE HEED MY WARNINGS..... THIS MAY CAUSE A FIRE IF CERTAIN CRITERIA IS MET USING GE SILICONE AND POSSIBLY OTHER BRANDS I DO NOT KNOW I ONLY USED GE AND RED DEVIL RTV SILICONE. Well sadly all the work I have done to make ALL the colored silicone items is worthless. The SILICONE that was used has some form of acidic properties to it. The mixture of silicone has severely degraded the electronics and now I must start from scratch to remake ever silicone item again. DO NOT USE GE SILICONE TO MAKE ANY OF THIS STUFF YOU FIND ONLINE THAT APPEALS TO YOU. The RGB LEDs lens was turned into a jelly like matter and caused the leds to short out as I went to test for the last time before assembly. If this had not happened I fear this may have caused a electrical short that may have caused a fire. Thank the gods I noticed this before assembly. What made me do a final test was noticing a discoloration to the silicone around the stems of the mushrooms. The blue stem had turned green so I tested it and the led acted really funny and died. I disassemble a few of them and found the issue so now every item I used GE Silicone on to create them must be tossed and remade using RED DEVIL RTV SILICONE or any RTV silicone type. The RTV stands for ROOM TEMPERATURE VULCANISING and that means the silicone has a chemical reaction at room temperature to turn into rubber like tires are made only this is at room temperature not high temperature baking as tires undergo. The green hue the silicone had turned to was a reaction with the GE SILICONE and THE WIRE USED IN THEM. It had caused the copper to degrade like you see when it rots when left outside for long periods of time it actually degraded the insulation on the wire eating right down to the core causing a chemical reaction that retinted the silicon green from the core of the wire reacting with the acidity from the silicone turning it green. I am 100 percent confident the RTV silicone is safe I deconstructed a number of items made with it and all were perfectly formed sealed and protected like silicone is supposed to do. I wrote the makers of GE SILICONE and told them of my findings in hopes they change the warnings on the packages to protect consumers from using this product with any type of electrical use. This is the GE SILICONE product not to use. The other product is the Red Devil that is safe to use if you do this type of work and do not use the highly expensive silicone that comes in 2 parts for mold making and prosthetic sculpting, molding and casting techniques to create advanced cosmetic effects.Smooth-On ECOFLEX 00-20 SuperSoft Silicone - 2 Pint Kit - Simulates Look and Feel of Human Flesh. The clear mushrooms are made with the RTV Red Devil silicone El-Wire and RGB LEDs. The led is shown in hopes that you can see how the lens was turn to a jelly like substance. I did not think to take pictures of the wires how the insulation degraded and caused the wire to degrade turning green from decay. The colored mushrooms where created in January and February of 2017 and the silicone was mixed with glycerine as instructed along with acrylic paint to tint the silicone and this was the only chemicals added to the 2 silicone types GE and Red Devil. The mushrooms discoloration was noticed on April 1st of all days. I hope this helps all of you who attempt making this very beautiful art work. This all was intended for my project I call Alice: Red Queen my alice in wonderland diorama I have been working on for well over 400 man hours now with this set back. PLEASE ALL OF YOU STAY SAFE AND TEST YOUR WORK BEFORE USEING IT.</p>
<p>I had asked a question back in February, 2017. Concerning the use of RGB SMD 5050 LEDs if they can be used. I found they can be used and work brilliantly with your design Sir <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/D4nnyF3nt0m" style="">D4nnyF3nt0m</a>. I found this wiring and copper tape to run along the artwork to eliminate the spaghetti from clusters of mushrooms on 1 piece. The tape can be applied then solder the wire (305M 30AWG 0.25mm Tin Plated Copper Wire Wrapping Test Cable Colored), to the copper (eBoot 1/ 4 Inch Copper Foil Tape with Dual Conductive Adhesive 21.8 Yards for EMI Shielding, Slug Repellent, Crafts, Electrical Repairs, 2 Pack). You can use 3 wires for the red, green, blue led then 1 wire solely for the common cathode or ground or common anode depending on the diode you purchase. If just making this project then purchase the LEDs with a power supply if creating a large number to work together then continue reading. The tape can be can also be used to repair traces on PCB's or create pcb's for this project if you make a large collection of them to run around your entire garden. I made a 48&quot; x 24&quot; Diorama signage picture type artwork using your Mushroom invention as decoration in it. The theme is Alice in wonderland, Through the looking glass. I also used black light and neon colors to tint the silicone used in the artwork. I not only did the mushroom lights but your idea inspired me to make silicone houses and various other plants used in the movie. I also used in combination Glycerin, Corn Starch to thicken the silicone from thinning it with Glycerin, </p><h1>Klean-Strip QKSP94005CA Odorless Mineral Spirits, 1-Quart</h1><p>, (<a>https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-QKSP94005CA-Odo...</a> to use in molds for other items found in the movie. I added animatronics to it to make the Mushrooms and characters come to life and move around a small amount as if shaking in the wind. I will provide a link to the materials used including silicone that works great and is priced no more than the GE silicone but hardens in 30 minutes to fully assembled cured hardness. The red Devil also has almost no odor to it when curing just a slight vinegar smell it is a RTV or AKA Room Temperature Vulcanising silicone that hardens quickly you have maybe 10 to 13 minutes working time from placed on mixing cup to cured time. That is plenty of time to work with. For the tinting I recommend looking up to find a chart of how much of what color to add for the water based inkjet refill kits. I found this chart that may be helpful to you as well, (<a>https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Mix-Colors...</a> The silicone is RED DEVIL RTV CLEAR SILICONE and accepts acrylic paints water based inks for a wide variety of colors if you use the ink the colors are only limited by your imagination. If you only intend to make the stems and caps then use only the median for tinting the silicone and the silicone ( </p><h1>Red Devil 100% Industrial Grade RTV Silicone Sealant - Clear, </h1><p><a>https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-Industrial-Silico...</a> or this one ( </p><h1>Red Devil 08260I Clear RD PRO Industrial Grade RTV Sealants, 10.1 oz. Cartridge, </h1><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-08260I-Industrial-Cartridge/dp/B002C3VTW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489075104&sr=8-2&keywords=red+devil+rtv+clear+silicone">https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-08260I-Industrial...</a> ) I do not know about the tinted or ready colored silicone how they look but if you use the cheap refill ink kits like I did to tint it the colors are out of this world and you can use El Wire also to illuminate the stems. If you use the wire with inverters you can hook it all up to 1 wall outlet and power the wire and leds by splitting it the leds go to a buck convertor and el wire to the inverter supplied with the wire it makes for a very eye catching display. (</p><h1>5M Neon LED LightGlow EL Wire String Strip Rope Tube + 12V Power Inverter Kit - Blue,<a> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IOKPPKM/ref=...</a> ).</h1><p>Good luck and many many thanks to you sir, You have no idea how inspiring to me this was and is with your instructional technique on the Enchanted Mushrooms. You are my hero. I will return with pictures and a video of the Dioramasignageicture this is the name I created for the artwork because it is 1 of a kind so should the name be. I made this by and from reading this Instructable at a later date so far I have placed 340 hours into the artwork just in manufacturing of pieces to incorporate into it. I do have a deadline it is April 27th the artwork is a gift so it will be completed before then and I will return with proof of my work in images and videos of the artwork I created all over Enchanted Mushrooms. You really are my hero and Inspiration <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/D4nnyF3nt0m" style="">D4nnyF3nt0m</a> Thank you from the bottom of my twisted heart from going down the rabbit hole to many times lol. I truly apologize if my post is overboard I had to share with you and others how greatly you inspired me to make this artwork and another piece that uses your Enchanted Mushrooms in it. The Entire piece of art I am making has ran me just over $487.00 so far in USA funds with all the electronics I used to control the lighting and animatronics I have over 175 Enchanted Mushrooms alone in it not to mention the UV blacklight DIODES and other items in it. The artwork will be a animatronic movie in itself brought to life with ARDUINO UNO, TINY, and other microcontrollers. Bless you SIR , <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/D4nnyF3nt0m" style="">D4nnyF3nt0m</a> and </p><h1><a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/DIYPerks/">DIYPerks</a></h1>
<p>Great to read how big of a project this has<br>become for you! Im looking forward to some pictures, and maybe a nice video on YouTube?</p><p>For the past weeks, I have been struggling with 2 arduinos to<br>animate some mushrooms as well, by using self-written animations controlled by<br>an IR remote. I have almost finished understanding all coding. Once I do, I<br>will start wiring the LEDs. If it works out ill upload some pictures as well. </p>
I have had my own issues with nano Atmega328 boards myself. I have tried to upload the uno bootloader to them to make tremendous amounts of room in the mem but it keep failing to sync and recognise pins. I hope I did not damage them during assembly. I do not think that is the case other codes and ATMega328 program works fine and is recognised in the program itself when I plug them in so it must be so simple it is stupidly overlooked as a mistake lol. I am very new to the code world myself with this type of use but maybe we can work out the issues together if you want to give it a try. I look forward to posting the how2 instructables it is just so much work I have recorded I work on this 5 to 6 nights a week from 7 AM until I fall asleep it is very large board 48 inches by 28 inches to install all the silicone and leds with servo's to bring them to life and working out all the bugs is mind numbing to put it nicely lol. I have over 150 RGB leds installed in mushrooms attached to fine cables through small tubes at various locations embedded in silicone to make them move as the servos turn to wind and release the cable I used and all the uv leds and EL-Wire incorporated in the mushrooms to get all of it to work nicely together is just too much to handle on certain days lol. I have issues with timing and voltages for colors on the leds to obtain 16 million colors with the rgb's. I decided to use the TLC5904NTG4 to run the rgb's and UV leds. good luck with your project by the way. I will be posting mine soon I hope after the editing is completed I must complete it by April 27th it is a gift.
<h1>can I use RGB LED 5050 SMD SMT Light Emitting Diode LED Chip in the mushrooms if so please tell me how to wire them for all colors </h1>
<p>Those LEDs require 6 leads right? Im afraid that 6 wires in a stem will be quite difficult. You can connect the LEDs as informed in the datasheet of the manufacturer.</p>
<p>Made these a few weeks ago. Accidentally ordered smaller (3528 smd) leds. So I ended up making a special construction that supports 2 leds in series. Also, I preferred to connect all mushrooms in parallel, to a resistor that is connected to power supply in series. In that way I only used one resistor in the wooden base. :)</p><p>This project was a lot of work, but im happy with the result. So im currently working on a 2nd set. This time with the leds connected parallel with a smaller structure. The 3rd set will be RGB with Arduino.</p>
<p>Just learned with Mushroom MK2 that wiring LEDs in parallel is not good since current will not divide well. 2 shrooms are very bright, rest is almost off. I was lucky that it worked out alright in MK1 though!</p>
<p>Wonderful project. I jumped right in last night. The issue I have is that the silicone isn't drying wrapped up in the plastic. It did this last night and neither the stem or two test heads I made are close to dry. When I peel back the plastic it's still very sticky. 100% silicone and just a dab of water color. Thoughts? </p>
<p>Hmm, strange. Are you using the same type of silicone that I used? Does it dry faster when open to the air? I can only think that the silicone you're using has a longer drying time.</p>
It's just regular 100% silicone by GE. &quot;Rain-Ready in 30min&quot; And I'm using little tubes of watercolor paint. I see it just takes the littlest drop of paint to tint. I'm going to do some more experiments including mixing a new batch and seeing what it does in open air. Thanks for the fast response and I'll let you know how it works out! Need to get this done in time for Valentine's Day &lt;3. Luckily I have a bit of lead time :D.
<p>Hey! So I had the same problem, and it turns out you have to use the GE Silicone I, *not* the GE Silicone II. The difference is that the Silicone I cures via acetic acid, and the Silicone II cures via methanol and ammonia. The Silicone I will cure just fine (and much faster) wrapped in the plastic wrap, while the Silicone II didn't cure at all unless it was in the open air. <br><br>hope this helps!</p>
<p>I think we had the same problem as you with the mushroom cap silicone curing very slowly compared to the stems when covered in cling film. We had tended to add more paint to the stems meaning they were darker and think this had an effect on drying, it might also have been the shape in which the cling film was made, a tube with open ends, that meant they dried quickly, but for the caps we tried to added them to a solution of water and baking powder and it did seem to speed up curing time, though we didn't do it scientifically so couldn't say for certain. I was using the Acetoxy Silicone, next time I'll try to find the recommended stuff.</p>
<p>Thanks <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/tardistrekkie" rel="nofollow">tardistrekkie</a> maybe it's time to try again this Valentine's Day :). I'll see if I can find that &quot;Silicone I&quot; at my local Home Depot. </p>
Very cool project, I really enjoy my new white mushrooms, wich I use as a night light. I also started to make some with RGB L.E.D. recently.
<p>After making red mushrooms with red leds, I also became interested in making RGB ones. How do you wire 1 led module from the strip to a RGB controller? Are you putting all 4 wires in the stem?</p>
This was fairly simple: I had some rgb LEDs laying around, wich had an integrated rgb controller, thus having only two leads for power :)
<p>I did some homework and found integrated different types of RGB leds (the one with the least pins has 4 pins: WS2812B, others have 6 pins). If i would use the 4-pin type, the steel wire could be used to ground the led. But I would need 3 leads in the stem. Voltage in, Data in, and Data out. I will also need Arduino. Is that similar to how you made your RGB mushrooms?</p>
<p>Hello :)</p><p>As i said, i have found some with only two leads. It seems like they are fairly uncommon, i found mine in some cheap color changing solar garden lights. You can use normal rgb leds, but make shure nothing shorts out and the wires don&acute;t show through the stem. I&acute;d recommend you to build a standalone arduino board, if this doesn&acute;t exceed your skill level. This is very easy to do, and there are many tutorials on youtube about this subject. You only need a 16 Mhz Crystal, an Atmega 328P Chip, two 22 pF ceramic disk capacitors, an LM 7805 and a 10 kOhm resistor. Keep in mind, that you will need an Arduino or some sort of Ftdi breakout board to program it,but again, there are many tutorials on this subject on youtube.</p><p>Greetings from Germany :)</p>
<p>Thanks again Steve! I am choosing between those two options now. I probably will go for arduino. It'll be a step up for me, but i like a challenge now and then. Greetz from the Netherlands =)</p>
<p>You&acute;re welcome! Another cool thing about those 4 pin rgb leds is that you can program your very own animations, and i hope you&acute;ll succeed :)</p>
<p>Ah okay! Thanks for your very quick reply! </p>
Looks awesome! :) Nice work!
how many LEDs can be connected to the 4.5V box? With more LEDs connected does that mean less ohms per resistor since there are more lights sharing the voltage?
<p>That depends on how you connect the LEDs. If you connect them in parallell, here's no difference in the resistance; the batteries just get drained quicker.</p>
<p>Love it, just love it!.. btw: My friend and i were talking about this years ago, he saw glowing mushrooms in the movie Avatar (i think).. and wanted glowing mushooms everywhere in his house. So &iuml;'ve send him this link to your video. Guess he's buying gallons of silikone right now :D :D And so will do i! THX!:)</p>
<p>I've been making these shrooms for couple months now, fun AF.</p>
<p>These look truly magical! :) I hope to make them some day soon :D </p>
<p>Where did you guys buy the resistors and LEDs? having a little trouble finding the right ones</p>
Hey samuelT30 I went to a place called Frys electronics they have 100 count 100ohm resistors for 3.99 and I bought the battery pack at the same place and I went to big lots and bought bright white LED light the ones you hang on the house and took them apart
<p>Wow! So many people made this! I've been subscribed to you for almost a year (On YouTube) by the way</p>
<p>For a more diffuse light you can also sand the LEDs </p>
<p>Thanx for tutorial! </p>
<p>Excellent tutorial. Had a blast making these.</p>
<p>Sorry for bad quality photos. Looks like a charm! :D</p>
<p>Made this for a friend. Wired it up to a 4.5v power adapter instead of the battery pack. She added the Sideshow Bob figurine haha. Thanks for the awesome Instructables!</p>
<p>Another pic</p>
<p>Not a great picture, but I finally got around to making some. Thanks for the great Instructable!</p>
<p>Awesome looks so real, yet magical at the same time. Thank you so much for this instructable.</p>
<p>that's my girlfriend's birthday gift made by me! thank u a lot Matt! you are very good! see u on youtube channel!</p>
<p>I made it on piece of wood and screw it to my subwoofer. i have put a buck driver in sub and use power from sub DC. Buck driver is set to 5.5V output and its output is connected to LEDs in mushrooms. </p><p>On back side of log is a USB A port which will be used for charging of my phone. Phone will be used for source of music for sub&amp;speakers ;)</p>
<p>i also made one for my girlfriend! thank you so much! =]</p>
Made it but I only had blue LEDs so I made my mushrooms blue and it looks pretty cool
<p>Looks awesome! Thanks for sharing! :)</p>
<p>I love this!!! Going to try it out for sure!</p>
<p>this is so coollllllllllllllllllllll!!!!!!!!!! :D</p>
<p>Very VERY cool!</p><p>This reminded me of two of my favorite things: <br></p><p><a href="http://www.glowingplant.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.glowingplant.com</a> (real!)<br></p><p><a href="http://digitalblasphemy.com" rel="nofollow">http://digitalblasphemy.com</a> (only digital)<br></p><p>From the photos I thought they were bigger, like lamp-sized, but I am in no way disappointed. Watercolor + silicone is an idea I'll have to explore in more detail when I've got time.</p><p>One suggestion that comes to mind is: after the head is 'dry' but before peeling the wrap off, you could add some clear silicone to the inside side of the head, cover that with wrap, and mold it into the feathery &quot;pages&quot; of the underside of the mushroom head. Let that dry, then remove all the wrap, add the clear underside to the LED and then the outer head. More work, sure, but could make for some cool effects.</p><p>Would be fun to hack this idea (into/onto/from?) solar walkway lights along a path in a garden. If you replace those high efficiency, high brightness white LEDs from the walkway lights with more subtle lower-power color LEDs, you could have more mushrooms per solar panel.</p><p>Inspired! Thanks!</p>
<p>I was thinking along similar lines with the underside. I think I'll try cutting the 'gills' out of milk-bottle polyethylene. Maybe cut a stack of irregular triangles, kink up up with pliers and glue them in a fan beneath the led. Should support the crown nicely! Think I might even play with a little fiberoptic and make some sea life this way.</p>

About This Instructable



Bio: Hello! I'm Matt and I love making things. I'm always thinking of new ideas and how to make them as awesome as possible ... More »
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