loading

I decided to stretch myself and use some real joinery and make a small table.

I used:

  • Poplar
  • Table saw
  • Router table
  • Edge jointing sled for table saw
  • Planer
  • Face jointing sled for planer
  • Glue
  • Figure eight table top connectors and screws.

Step 1: Create the Legs

The boards I picked were reasonably flat, so I just smoothed one side of each with the planer and glued the two together.

I squared up one end then I used a sled to edge joint one side and the sliced it into four inch and one half with legs.

I cut each leg to its final length.

Step 2: Cut Open Mortises in the Legs

I used and 1/4 inch straight bit and set up the fence on the router table to make open mortises. I clamped a stop block at the length I wanted.

For each leg I took several passes to make the mortise to the depth 1/2 inch.

I one of the legs to set the stop block to the proper distance on the other side of the fence. I did that because I was sure I was totally centered and this would keep the offset consistent.

I cut the other mortises.

Step 3: Cut the Skirts and the Tenons

I cut the two long skirts and two short skirts to length and rip them to width.

After some tests, I cut the mortises by setting the rip fence the length of my tenons. I start at the fence, and the make passes moving away from then fence until I come to the end of the board. I flip the board and repeat the process.

The fit was still too tight so I sanded the tenon until I got the fit I wanted.

Step 4: Trim the Bottom of the Tenons

I determined the amount of tenon that needed cut off on the bottom.

I cut them off with a hand saw and clean it up and rounded the tenon with a chisel.

Step 5: Make the Table Top

Now I rough cut the pieces for the top.

These were twisted, so I made a crude sled so I could joint them with the planer.

I propped up the high spots with shims.

I sketch a pattern on the face so I could tell when the top was jointed.

I flipped the boards over and planed the other side.

Using the sled again, I edge jointed the pieces and glued them together.

Step 6: Assemble the Table Bottom

I sanded the legs and the skirts.

I cut chamfers on the leg bottoms and rounded the edges

I glued the two longer sides together.

I glued the short skirts to one of the log sides.

I glued the other long side to the short skirts.

Step 7: Trim Top and Prepare Bottom

I squared the top and trimmed it to width.

I rounded the edges of the top.

I bored holes for the figure eight connectors in the skirts with the drill press.

Step 8: Finishing

I applied:

  • Wood conditioner
  • Early American stain
  • Spray Lacquer
  • I smoothed the lacquer with #0000 steel wool.

Step 9: Attach the Top

I attached the figure eight connectors to the holes in the skirts with 1/2 inch screws, drilling pilot holes.

I aligned the bottom to the top.

I attached it to the top with 1/2 screws, drilling pilot holes.

Then I applied a coat of wax to the whole table.

Step 10: Conclusion

I thought this went pretty well considering it was my first real woodworking joinery project.

Free plans are available in PDF and Sketch Up format.

<p>You should make an auxiliary table for your thickness planer, like this:</p><p><a href="http://i.imgur.com/WDgJgBg.jpg">http://i.imgur.com/WDgJgBg.jpg</a></p><p>Just take a piece of plywood and cut it so it fits, then glue a piece of sheet metal to the top of it with some contact cement. Underneath, on the front, there is a hook made out of a couple blocks of wood. Then the guide rails on the side are tacked on to keep pieces from falling off. Not that that happens, but you never know.</p><p>I've used my planer without the auxiliary table, and with it. I like it a lot better with the table. In fact I wouldn't use my planer without the table anymore. You'd just have to try it to see what I mean. The underside of my table has dried contact cement (J roller smooth) on it too. That keeps it from slipping around in place. It was a bit of a happy accident that is how it is. But I do like it.</p><p>Someone could sell these things and make a mint. It is just that much of an improvement.</p>
Interesting. Does it help with snipe?<br>
<p>It helps. But I just noticed a little on a piece I did recently. So I cannot say it eliminates it. I only noticed it after I'd finished the piece. That is how faint it is. I have to look at the top of that box at just the right angle to catch it at all. I vaguely recall before I used my table my planer really sniping work on me sometimes. But I've been using my table for so long now that is going back a ways for me.</p><p>The best I can say is try it, you'll like it. The auxiliary table really helps when you run longer material through the planer. The piece I put a little crease in was pretty short when I planed it. So it just did not have the weight to stay down as the rollers sucked it up.</p><p>It was actually a little piece of a wine box I was planing. So it was very thin too. I was making a fitted case for some dovetail milling cutters I just received. So just a shop fixture. I was still a bit annoyed that I missed that crease before I finished the piece. Not annoyed enough to take it out though. It's really not bad.</p><p>Thickness planers are like magic for salvaged wood. Turns trash into treasure.</p>

About This Instructable

2,888views

34favorites

License:

Bio: I attempt to build things. Sometimes I even succeed.
More by CanKenMakeIt:Shop Project - Make a Magnetic Tray for Drill Bit Storage Wooden Football Placekicker Toy Make a Pocket Hole Printer Stand 
Add instructable to: