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I purchased a DeWalt 12volt cordless drill with two 'dead' batteries from a guy on eBay for about $10 (£6).

I intended to turn it into a corded drill as demonstrated in several Instructables.

Then the project seemed to take on a life of it's own and I found myself adding new features and enhancements.

The end product is a super drill and an amazing before and after project.

I have set out each improvement separately so that anyone reading this may select to do any or all my suggested improvements.

Step 1: In the Beginning

I started with this fine pedigree drill that had served it's owner well for many years and was now looking a little tired.

I wanted to give it a new lease of life.

Step 2: Tools

I would need a wide array of tools but nothing super special that is not owned by the average tinkerer.

I set to work removing screws and opening up the little beast.

Step 3: Ready to Start the Refurbishment

After about 15 minutes, I had all the parts separated, and the small parts safe in a container.

The first job would be to clean the plastic housing and then to check and clean the inside components.

Step 4: Grime Time

The drill casing was extremely grubby. It was coated in all sorts of oils, grease and grime.

I tried the dish washer, which helped a little, and then went through each and every cleaning product we had in the house.

Eventually the casing was 'acceptable' but it was not possible to return to an 'as-new' state.

Step 5: Turning Back the Years

The motor and gears etc were in fairly clean condition.

A few minutes with a brush and a few Q-tips had it in a relatively clean state.

Step 6: Removing the Old Brushes

I had managed to get a new set of brushes from a local DeWalt dealer for about $8 (£5).

I had shown him the originals and he 'matched' them.

I then put the old ones back in, to take these pictures of how to remove them.

I had originally been baffled as to how they came out. In the end I found a YouTube video for a similar drill that answered my question.

It really is simple...you just insert a flat screwdriver between the metal housing and the plastic of the brushes, and lever gently. The whole assembly then pops out.

Step 7: A Commutator Clean and Then New Brushes

Once the old brushes were out, I took the opportunity to clean out all the accumulated crud.

I carefully cleaned the carbon deposits from the commutator and around the inside.

You may see from the image above that the old brushes were not in desperate need of changing.

It was still best to put in new ones whilst I had the drill apart.

The new brushes simply slid back into place with a satisfying click.

Then I noticed a problem....

As you may see the last image above; The old set had a spade terminal on the brushes to take the bladed connector from the switch, which meant I could not simply slip in the connectors again.

I solved this by carefully disconnecting the connectors from the old brushes and replacing the spade ends on the switch wires. This worked well.

Step 8: Adding a Belt Clip

Many of the latest drills include a shiny belt clip and I wanted my new friend to have one too.

It is possible to buy genuine DeWalt clips for about $8 (£5) but I had a suitable clip from a broken tape measure that was ideal.

I had actually done a little balancing test with the drill, before I disassembled it, to find the centre of gravity and therefore the best angle to have the belt clip.

Inside the case there was a moulded raised circle that seemed a great place to make the hole for the securing screw.

I just used a brad awl to make the hole and then inserted in the retaining screw.

Next I mounted the clip, which uses a sort of keyhole method to enable it to go over the screw head and then slide down into place.

When I checked the other side and saw that the screw protruded a very long way and would touch the motor.

I placed the screw into the chuck of a drill held in my workmate vise. Then, with the drill running, I moved a saw blade along the screw to cut it back. This was the quickest easiest was to ensure that the screw was evenly cut back.

Before the screw was cut all the way through I re-inserted it into the drill case. That enabled me to screw it back tight. Once it was in position and the clip was secure, using a pair of end cutters, I trimmed it to length. (I had tried just cutting it before but that was not feasible until reduced in diameter)

Finally I covered the inside part of the screw with a sticky felt dot to insulate the end of the screw. I then tested all was well. (I have included a picture of the finished refurbished drill hanging on my belt).

Step 9: Mounting the LED

Having decided to have a built-in light, I used a super bright white LED.

I had this in my spares box but they are readily available on eBay,or from electronics suppliers etc.

I 'eyeballed' the possible location at the front of the drill. I thought that it would be tight.

It would not be possible to insert the LED from the back and the little step at the end of the LED, would prevent insertion from the front.

I solved this by 'gently' fitting it into a drill chuck and then holding a file next to it whilst the chuck rotated. (The drill was held in my workmate at the time).

The LED could then be inserted from the front.

Because the hole drilling had to be very precise I started the process using a hand drill before using the correct sized (5mm) bit.

Everything worked out well and the finished appearance was clean.

Step 10: Wiring the LED

I first worked out the spacing and positioning of the resistor, noticing that it would not be able to be inserted from the front and would have to be attached in-situ.

I first soldered it to the Anode lead (The longer lead of a LED).

I actually used the method taught me many years ago when I worked on defence contracts. I noticed recently that there was an entire 'ible on just this connection method (You can check it out here...and it is fine example of how to use a great title to get attention for a simple 'ible)

I placed shrink wrap over the first section and then slid on another piece after soldering the hook-up wire to the other end of the resistor.

I was worried about using the huge hot heat-gun close to the plastic, but I kept exposure to a minimum and so there were no adverse effects.

Finally I routed the wires safely and locked everything in place with hot glue.

Gluing the LED at the correct angle and position was essential and so I held it for an extra long time to ensure that it would be fixed correctly.

Overall this was a fiddly and awkward procedure but all worked out well.

Step 11: Ooops.... Need to Switch the Switch

I had tried the switch in the position, checking that it did not obstruct the motor unit. However I must have had the motor incorrectly seated or was blind...as, when I tried it again after drilling, it was not a good fit. There was not enough clearance at all.

I tried bending back the switch tabs but that was not enough. The only solution was to re-locate the switch.

You may notice in some of these images that the switch appears at the rear bottom. The wrong switch location images are because I completed those stages before I noticed the issue.

I filled the hole with Sugru and re-mounted the switch higher up and off-set to the right.

I checked and double checked there was enough clearance.

Perhaps I could have found a smaller switch but this one had the correct rating and looks good externally.

I wanted the switch to be 'on' when down and off when up. A few minutes with the meter sorted out which connections to use. Since it was a double pole switch I wired it to switch both connections.

I worked out wire length and then took out the switch to solder up the connections.

This was extremely fine work and I had to work hard to ensure that the wires did not short.

Once done and tested the switch was locked in position and hot melt glue was put over it as extra insulation.

Step 12: Keeping Things Level

The image above shows my first attempt at incorporating a bubble level into the design.

I moulded Sugru around the bottom of a bubble level and stuck it on top.

It looked hideous. Plus it was very hard to use.

I then bought some little bubble levels from eBay for a few pennies (This is the same thing on Amazon).

These turned out to be just what was needed.

I was very careful to ensure that the bubble was dead centre when the drill was level.

Note: If you do not want to drill your drill, then it would be possible (and just as useful) to just stick them on the outside of a drill using Sugru or even double sided sticky tape..

Step 13: Fitting the Top Bubble Level

I located the flattest central spot, marked it and used a hand awl to ensure that the hole started in the correct place.

First a pilot hole and then the correct size hole was drilled using a step bit to drill an 8mm hole (other bubble levels may vary in size).

Finally I glued the level inside using polystyrene cement. It was only glued on one half of the shell to enable it to be opened in future.

Step 14: Installing the Rear Bubble Level

I marked the centre of the rear, and checked that there was nothing on the inside that would be adversely affected by being drilled.

The shell was then clamped in a workmate type vise and also a C clamp was used to ensure that the case did not part as the drill entered.

First the pilot and then the correct sized hole were drilled.

The bubble was a good snug fit into the hole.

As before, I glued it on just one side to enable the shell to open if ever required.

( Note the position of the switch shown at the bottom was later moved).

Step 15: Modifying the Switch Housing

I removed the drill power switch from the black plastic housing.

I removed the copper heat-sink using a star bit.

I checked a few possible routes for the new cables and decided that, with a little 'plastic surgery', the new external power feed cable could run down the spine of the plastic cover.

I cut out some parts with a cutter and filed out channel. This neatly contained the cable, keeping it well out of the way of the battery pack. Later I dropped a little hot glue on to keep the wires in the channel.

Step 16: Cabling for the External Power Feed

I had decided that the external power would not go in via the battery as in other Instructables.

I wanted the drill to still be able to function normally and I wanted to be able to use my external feed to also charge an inserted battery.

I was also going to run the LED in parallel direct from the power in, and so needed to connect those leads at the same time as the power feed.

I briefly considered connecting at the top of the switch but realised that in use, polarity could be reversed and the voltage varied by the drill control.

I measured out a length of 10 A cable for the power and also some lighter hook-up' wires to go to the LED switch.

With the heat-sink removed there was easy access to the copper connectors and a big pad to solder on to. I scraped clean the pads, tinned them and then soldered pre-tinned cables to the pads.

This was not the ideal connection, as it has no mechanical strength, but since there would be no force acting on these cables it was an acceptable solution.

Once the connections were complete and tested I replaced the copper heat-sink.

Next I estimated the length of wire needed to reach out of the drill and connected the 2 pin connectors.

Step 17: Connector Notes

I used the 2 pin connectors generally used for LiPo battery connections in model race cars.

They have several names such as LiPo connectors, Race Battery connectors and Tamiya connectors.

It is a good connector as it can handle high'ish currents and locks together.

There is a male and a female housing.

To 'confuse matters' the male connectors go into the female housing and the female pins go into the Male housing.

Positive is usually red and goes to the Square hole pins and Negative, black, goes into the Semi-circle shaped receptical.

The wires can be simply crimped into the pins but I prefer to also solder them.

Once inserted into the housing they cannot be removed. This would have caused me a problem, as I had a bad joint. Fortunately, I had tested each connection before insertion and so avoided having to replace the whole connector.

I definitely recommend testing (and wiggling the wires) before insertion.

The 'convention' is that the 'female' part is on the device and the 'male' part is on the battery or power supply.

The other end of the external power lead was connected to a standard Car accessory plug.

(Is that the world's ONLY universally available, international standard plug?)

The outer is negative and the inner pin is positive.

Note, the original fuse I used was only 3 amps and it failed. So I had to use a 5 amp fuse.

Step 18: Adding a Depth Stop

I used a tent peg , the end of a ballpoint pen, an electrical connector, and a screw to add a very useful new feature to the drill.

Step 19: The Drill Depth Stop

I often used sticky tape around the drill to tell me how deep to go.

I actually do own some metal collars that fit onto bits, that can be set to any depth, but I can never find them when I want them or they are for a different size of drill bit.

Those days are now behind me since adding this simple but effective drill depth stop to the side of the drill.

I actually investigated using a row of magnets to hold the steel rod, but when it hit the wall it just slid back and provided no limiting effect.

Next I considered building a holder using PolyMorph or even Sugru, but in the end I used my trusty brass connectors.(As I used in my very first Instructable)

By cutting the mounting hole back a little and using the plastic top from an old ballpoint pen, I could use one of the existing holes on the drill to mount the assembly.

I used the steel tent peg (10 for a dollar or pound) as the stop bar.

I cut the length of the bar to the maximum I could whilst still having it stay within the length of the drill body. That was to avoid the potential for being poked in the eye during use.

I checked it with a range of drill bits, including long Spade bits and all could usefully be used with the depth stop.

This simple addition could be added to any drill by adapting the fitting to suit.

Step 20: Final Touches

Of course I could not stick the old label back on my 'spiffy' drill.

So I booted up Photoshop and, after downloading a few images and creating a new label design, I was happy to print it out.

I printed it on stiff paper and then laminated it. It is only stuck on using sticky-stick (Pritt stick) but so far all is good.

I can always produce another one if it gets damaged.

I love having the robot as part of the design and I can claim to have a totally unique drill which is truly a Special Edition.

Step 21: Bring Out Your Dead

I was always intrigued by Instructables such as this one in which he revives old cordless batteries using a welding power supply.

I would have been happy using my refurbished drill with my 12v power pack, but I had to try the Lazarus effect on my dead batteries.

I first tried to charge each normally and after 24 hrs the results were as seen in the first images, just a few volts.

I then used a 12v Jump start pack connected +Ve to +Ve and then tapped the -Ve to -Ve connector about 30 times at about one second per tap. I got tiny sparks (that do not show on the photo).

I then charged the cells up for about 6 hours and checked the voltages.

Wow... they were over 12 volts.

(I know that just seeing a higher voltage does not necessarily mean that there is enough energy to deliver sufficient power to the drill, but it certainly shows promise of a possible improvement).

This method certainly worked for me and the batteries work fine in the drill.

(One lasts a little longer than the other but both are usable).

Extra Note: (Added 7th August 2015)

I read that taking a dead battery and 'banging' it down hard a few times, would also loosen the 'dendrites' that affect the battery functioning. I tried this on the battery that had not responded so well to zapping ....I thwacked it down onto my long suffering workmate bench about a dozen times, and the result is a fully charging, long lasting battery.

I can now recommend also trying a few healthy bangs to revive 'dead' NiCad cells.

(Of course you should be careful when, where and how you bang your batteries).

I will now be trying BOTH these revitalizing methods on all my other cordless battery packs.

Step 22: A Tour of the Finished Drill

I am VERY pleased with all the improvements to this drill.

The external power connector is very useful and in fact I am now using it to charge the batteries. Those batteries were of course revived using the reverse voltage zap trick.

The drill depth limiter is also extremely useful and is far better than my old sticky-tape-around-the-drill method.

The bubble levels are perhaps my biggest surprise in terms of usefulness. In particular when drilling down into something, when it is extra hard to be straight. The little bubble is fast to centre and ensures a vertically drilled hole.

I do not actually use the belt clip much since I feel a bit of a 'poser' wandering around with a my macho DeWalt hanging off my waist like a 12 volt gun slinger. However it was of huge benefit recently whilst I was at the top of a ladder and needed to drill. Being able to store it temporarily on my belt, whilst I used other tools was a big bonus.

The most generally useful addition has to be......drum role please...

Step 23: Let There Be Light

The super bright LED light ...that is just amazingly useful.

Even in daylight I find it useful to more clearly show where the drill mark is.

I have even used it as a torch (flashlight) to rummage in the darker recesses of a tool box.

I definitely recommend anyone to upgrade their drill to have lighting. If you cannot do it as an integrated fitting then maybe THIS INSTRUCTABLE which uses Sugru, magnets and little LED key-chain lights, will good for you.

So, that is it, dear Instructabler, one of my longest and most image filled Instructables.

I suppose each could have been done separately to produce 3 or 4 separate 'Ibles. So you have extra value in this one.

I do hope that you are inspired to do at least one of the upgrades that I have described.

I am certainly happy with my 'cheap' drill after investing a little sweat and time.

I do hope you all agree that it represents a superb Before and After project.

Cheers.

<p>Hi,</p><p>great job done, Iam repairing old battery drill too (18V Einhell brand), and I want to make it work from 220V power outlet. </p><p>Could you give an advice what power source/adaptor I should use?? I was thinking of using original battery charger, but its marked as 21V and only 400mA output power - will this be enough? Or what power output should I look for? (12V battery will not work well with 18V drill I think..)</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>it was not on a handheld drill it is on my piller drill which in my shed is hard to see just where the drill is going to hit the laser lines form a cross just where the drill is going to hit no matter what height the table is set for when you start getting old like me (63 now) your eyes don't work so well as when you were in your 20's.</p>
<p>I dunno....a 12volt nicad drill is basically worthless IMHO. Nice touch adding the LED though, I dunno how we ever used drills without em. Love how the new-ish makitas even leave it on for a good 3-5 seconds for u.....brilliant.</p>
<p>A well made instructable, only one item I would change is the light in place of the LED I would replace it with two laser line markers which I recently did to my pillar drill fixing them to each side of the main pillar so no matter the height being drilled they always mark a cross where the centre of the drill will be it makes it much easier to get the hole where you want it.</p><p>Regards Poppy Ann.</p>
<p>and this whole time I was simply placing the tip of the drill bit where I wanted the hole to go......really?...a laser guided powerdrill? Seriously though, did You really remove the LED for a laser? </p>
FYI. You are my new hero<br><br>Now here is a challenge for you. I'm a former aerospace assembler. I miss my job horribly. Big issues came with my demished eyesight.<br>Main problem is keeping a drill perfectly straight and anything I tried failed. Could it be possible to create something to drill straight through aluminum keeping it square to the part?
<p>I've seen an old cd disk used on Pinterest. Use it upside down, so you can see if the drilll bit is vertical from it's reflection on the disk.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Drill-Straight-Holes-with-a-Hand-Drill-Usin/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Drill-Strai...</a><br><br>Or a drill-press that attaches to your drill and acts as a guide.</p>
Thank you for your reply! <br><br>Drill press isn't an option and the Legos are too bulky for aerospace parts. It would have to be something that attaches to a drill motor ( a little bigger than a dentist tool)
<p>I can't think of anything other than some sort of home-made jig with a bunch of clamps that you can attach to the drill when needed and then clamp to the part also.<br><br>Failing that, I have read about a tip for folks with sight problems where you place a CD reflective side up around the hole and you can line your drill up with it's reflection. Just a couple of ideas for ya, maybe help you think up a workaround :)</p>
<p>Hand Cleaner is great for cleaning stuff like this. Dreumex special (which has a mild abrasive) not only gets all sorts of grime off hands, I've found it useful for removing oily and non oil based from casings!</p>
<p>If you want to get a fresh look on a Dewalt product you can use Rust-Oleum specialty Caterpillar yellow farm equipment spray paint. It's the closest thing I've found to Dewalt yellow.</p>
You may want to check out Anderson Powerpole connectors. They are modular and very sturdy, but can be a little bit pricy. I use them though whenever I want a secure connection. They are what Disney uses for the SpectroMagic parade. Not sure about ELP though.
Yes... it is often useful to be sure that your hole will be perpendicular to the surface. I find that my little bubbles do help a lot but I have also used the method whereby you drill a clearance hole in a piece of scrap wood on the drill press, and then use it as a portable guide. <br>Another method is to cut a 90 degree corner into a thick piece of wood and use that to align your drill. If you cannot cut at 90 degrees then two squared pieces of wood offset to create a corner can be used. <br>If all this fails than you could splash out for the Wolfcraft drill guide which is often available on ebay for around &pound;15 and is regularly on Amazon at twice that. <br>Here is the link to the UK listing :https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4522-Mobil-Drill-Stand/dp/B0001P19PO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470416604&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wolf+drill+guide<br>Cut and paste it into your browser if the link is not a live one.<br>I hope this is of interest and help.
wow, one of my favorite Instructables, really useful and doable by average people. thanks for sharing
WoW, great intructable!
<p>Actually, one or two of those may be able to be applied to my Dewalt Right Angle drill which is dead now. I don't know that I would do an 'able with it, but it is useful information. </p>
Thanks for sharing. I really enjoyed the read :o)
<p>Great ideas!! Thanks</p><p>What about ressurection of those old battery packs, did that &quot;sparky&quot; method work for you?? I have one 18V battery gone - Any idea how to &quot;start&quot; it?? I have only 12V car battery charger..</p>
<p>Nice and interesting transformation. I do the same things myself with DeWalt power tools. I buy them for next to nothing and repair them to perfect working order again. One trick to getting the yellow case as clean as you can possible get them is to use lacquer thinner and a rag. Acetone could work also but evaporates a lot quicker. Most every part you would ever need is available to rebuild them. But you have to be selective to get the ones that weren't totaled as well. Thumbs Up sir...</p>
Outstanding!!! Chock full of unexpected and very links and tips applicable in other contextS such as the battery recovery techniques. Bang on, I say! (Pun intended :-)<br><br>Very well done and I look forward to applying this to my own thrift-shop-acquired rechargeable power tools. <br>
<p>Sacrilege, I tell you, modifying the all mighty DeWalt! But pretty kool though, don't tell anyone I said that. Thanks for the info. Semper Fi</p>
Awesome project. Thanks for sharing :)
<p>That is an amazing upgrade for an old cordless, I think I will add the headlight to mine. The only thing you forgot was teaching it to make coffee. Excuse me whilst I go smack up my batteries. Thanks Greg</p>
<p>Wow!. Thanks for showing your work!</p>
<p>WOW! This is hilarious! Such excellent work on a poopy ol' screw gun! I'm sure you've heard the expression &quot;making a silk purse out of a sow's ear&quot;, or &quot;polishing a turd&quot;? Well, you've done both here, and more! The &quot;Special Edition&quot; sticker is a priceless detail! Well played, Sir!</p>
<p>You have a point except it's not really a turd at all. Personally what I'd have done instead is pick up a used Dewalt charger known to be capable of NiMH cells (if the drill didn't come with one of that generation) and just rebuild the packs with LSD NiMH AA cells and none of the other modifications.</p><p>About 10 years ago I refurbished a similar Dewalt 14.4V drill and have no regrets doing so except that at the time, the supply of cheap used NiMH capable Dewalt chargers was lower so I had opted to rebuild the packs with NiCd to continue using the existing NiCd-only charger I had, with their inherent high self discharge rate, so the battery must be recharged within a few days of use.</p><p>I might not have bothered but the drill came with a flashlight that has a flexible snake head that I wanted to keep using even if I retired the drill. The flexible head extension is a lot more handy for aiming the light than the typical rotating head adjustments available on most tool brands' flashlights, especially for illuminating difficult areas like in a car engine bay.</p>
Amazing tutorial. Thanks
<p>oven degreaser works wonders on my tools and pretty much anything else that has stubborn marks. </p>
Great job!!! <br>One suggestion - I add lights to almost all my tools - I never realized what a huge difference it makes! I have discovered that a single light will often cast a distracting shadow where the bit touches the surface being drilled. I use three lights in a triangle pattern around the barrel, casting a much more even field of light, with no shadows. Dewalt is already doing this on a few of its impact drivers, I noticed. <br>I also added a ring of lights around the bit collet on my hand router - it makes cutting tricky mortises infinitely easier!
<p>I used a magic eraser on a yellow plastic Dewalt tool like this one, it helped clean it right up.</p>
<p>Wow, that's a great 'ible !!!</p><p>I will definitely be whacking my batteries from now on. LOL</p>
<p>I'm going to go beat on a few batteries now! where's that 10 lb hammer?</p><p>I'm kidding!</p>
<p>I wanna see you upgrade it to take the dewalt DCB204-2 20V Max XR 4AH Lithium-ion batteries using a 3 d printer and voltage adaptor the 12 volt drill will take 18 volts no problem and the old pre XRP drills I'd swap them out all the time.</p><p>Even the XRP's swapped back and forth.</p><p>However with a voltage adapter circuit to limit current you could get it down to 16 volts and it would not be an issue, I think they use the same motor's but I'm not positive.</p><p>Then Dewalt has a new line of batteries that might be a better fit. the </p><p>Flex Volt system.</p><p>I'm still using my XRP drills. However I do have some older drills to play with.</p><p>Seems the drills outlast the battery's.</p><p>If you had like 5 or 6 of them you could make an inline drill press for cabinet shelf holes.</p><p>I know I saved those old drills for somthing, you have given me idea's </p><p>Oh by the way Batteries plus sells replacement batteries for these or used to.</p><p>https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/cordless-too...</p><p>Its cheaper to just buy a new drill most of the time.</p><p>And find a new use for the old one.</p>
<p>Great post!</p><p>For plastics, I have found that if you use a very small amount of oven cleaner on a scrubbie or toothbrush in a circular motion and then wipe off with baking soda to remove any residuals, the results are AMAZING. You should wear glove and eye-protection and use a test-area on what you cleaning first, but the results are truly spectacular.</p>
Great instructible! Just a side note on the Tamiya connectors: the reason the hobby industry has strayed away from those is due to current issues. You may find, if you use the drill for an extended period of time, the connectors will get hot and can actually melt together. You might want to consider switching to an XT60 or XT90 connector. These are rated for a higher current draw/output. You can find them on ebay or Amazon for a few bucks a piece, but well worth the money.
Hi and thanks for your comment.<br>I have noted your concerns but I am happy to report that, despite extensive use and prolonged charging periods, I have not had even the slightest heating issue.<br>Since I have a dozen or so of the little beasties I have also used them for other similar requirements, again with not adverse effects.<br>I shall certainly seek out the other connectors that you mention and consider using them in future. Cheers.<br>
<p>Great Job,</p><p>Wish I had seen this before I threw my old Dewalt away!</p>
<p>Wonderful job. Love the additions. I noticed the LED does not shine on the tip of the bit, however. From my observations, it looks as if you just need to trim away a tiny bit of housing...</p><p>Thanks especially for the note about whacking the batteries.</p>
<p>you da man! I am absolutely impressed by your ingenuity and know how, well done!</p>
<p>wow, congrats to you on your persistence, I love when people resuse things rather than just fill the landfill. </p>
<p>Really well done. Perfect!!</p><p>Many thanks for your 'ible!!</p><p>Andy</p>
<p>My Dear, excellent job! Congrats! I just did not understand (sorry for that) how did you use the race car plug: Do you use only in the cigarette lighter devices or is possible to turn on in the electric power directly?</p>
Does the bubble compass work accurate
Yes. I aligned everything accurately when they were put it. The bubble is easy to get in the middle when I need to drill level or vertically. <br>Most of the time it does not matter, but they are really useful when needed. <br>Thanks. For your question.<br>
<p>Great work! That's a lot of effort to revive that dead duck, but as far as I can see it was worth it in the end! Nicely done, and I love the &quot;Special Edition&quot; sticker! :-)</p>
<p>Thanks, the drill has served me very well on a recent project and will be making a cameo appearance when I do that 'ible. </p><p>I dropped it from the roof (accidentally) and snapped off the light switch but everything else still works fine. </p><p>I still plan to update the project later.</p>
<p>awesome!</p><p>I love the &quot;special edition&quot; label!</p>
<p>Thanks for your kind words. </p><p>I am planning to make a few additions to it next month so please drop by in a month.</p>
<p>great Instructable, thanks for sharing. For my taste, it's got the exact amount of professionalism without getting too technical. I would only add a couple of before-after videos. Very nice layout. </p>

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