Introduction: Entrance Cabinet
I have tried to ensure all steps are covered in these plans but if you find any errors in the plans or have a question then please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org to let me know.
All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.
Step 1: Shopping List
Step 2: Cutting List
Step 3: Make the Two Side Frames
Join two of the legs together using the 1 ½
by 14 for the top rail and the 2 ½ by 14 for the bottom rail.
Make sure the gap between the rails is 27 ¼ inches.
Step 4: Add Side Inserts
The sides in the plan are slightly different to the picture shown and are just solid panels as easier to make.
I actually like to use 1 by 4s joined together with a 45 degree bevel if you have a router. That is more work though and depends if you want to do it but does give a nicer look. Note if you took this approach then as the 1 by 4s may not be exactly 1 by 4 then do not use glue in the first step incase you need to trim the length of the side top and bottom rails.
Step 5: Add Front Rails
Add the two 1 by 2 and the one 1 by 3 horizontal front rails as shown and then the two 1 by 2 vertical rails.
I would suggest cutting those vertical rails once the horizontal ones are in place to ensure a tight fit.
Step 6: Add Back Rails and Support
Add the two horizontal three vertical 1 by 4 rails as shown below.
Step 7: Add the Bottom Shelf
Cut a ¾ inch square notch out of each corner of the plywood measuring 34.5 inches by 15.5 inches.
Drill pocket holes at the edge of each side and approximately 6 inches apart equally spaced along each side.
Step 8: Make the Doors
Drill pocket holes at both ends of the two shorter pieces and make the doors as shown below.
Remember the total width of the door should be ¼ inch less than the width of the opening for the door.
Same applies to the height of the door and the height of the opening for.
Step 9: Door Insert
Fix ¼ inch thick ply to the back of the door overlapping the frame by at least ½ inch to allow fixing.
I like to overlap sufficiently to try to cover the pocket holes and then add 1 ½ inch trim around the edge of the back just to tidy it up but the diagram below shows the minimum size you would need.
Step 10: Drawer Rail Supports
Add drawer rails supports as shown using the 14 inch lengths of 1 by 2 for the outer ones and the 15 ½ inch 1 by 2’s for the two inner ones.
The bottom of the support rail should be flush with the top of the front horizontal rail.
Step 11: Drawers
Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the 13 ¼ inch length 1 by 4 drawer pieces.
Join 13 ¼ inch pieces to the 14 ¾ inch lengths of 1 by 4 to form the drawers.
Cut two 14 ¾ by 14 ¾ pieces of ¼ inch plywood for the bases. Fix the plywood base to the bottom with ¾ inch finishing nails and glue. I prefer to use a router to make the base inserted into the sides but nailing to the bottom will work fine.
Fix the drawer part of the drawer slide to
the bottom of the drawer. I suggest you make the front edge of the slide sit flush as shown in the photograph below.
Step 12: Fitting the Drawer Rails
Fit the outer side parts of the drawer rails so that the leading edge is flush with the back edge of the front lower rail and the bottom edge of the rail is half an inch above the top of the rail. (excuse the basic block drawing for the rail)
Step 13: Fitting the Drawer
The drawer should then sit with half inch clearance from the bottom rail.
Step 14: Fit Drawer Front
The drawer fronts are the 1 by 6 pieces measuring 15 ¾ inches long.
Drill two holes through the inner drawer front shown in the picture in step 10 and then fix the outer drawer front by screwing through the inner drawer front into the outer drawer front using 1 ¼ inch screws.
Tip clamp the drawer front in position when happy with the spacing and then screw it in place.
There should be a 1/8 inch gap all around the outer drawer front.
Step 15: Fit Backing
Cut two pieces of ¼ inch plywood at least 12 ¼ by 25 ¼ and use ¼ inch finishing nails to nail them to the back of the cabinet from the inside.
Step 16: Making the Top
Use 5 pieces of 1 by 4 measuring 38 inches length and join them together with pocket hole screws to make the top. The top will be 17.5 inches deep.
Tip – Make sure you place the outermost pocket holes at least an inch from the edge so that they do not protrude outside the edge of the cabinet and can’t be seen.
Sand the top so that the boards are flush with each other and joins not visible (unless you want them to be).
Step 17: Fitting the Top
On the sides and back rails drill pocket hole screws facing upwards to use to fit the top.
On the front the 1 by 2 rail is not deep enough to drill pocket holes in. Instead fit another 1 by 2 behind it and screw it to the inside of the front rail and drill holes for in it for fixing the top through.
Step 18: Drawer Trim
Cut the drawer trim to fit once the drawer front is added. Fix in place with glue and 1 ¼ inch finishing nails.
I like to evenly space the nails and leave the small nail head holes showing for a more rustic finish.
I like to use the ½ inch thick poplar for the trim as It provides a slight contrast when stained.
Step 19: Optional Shelf
A shelf can also be added. If you want to add shelf then you will need 4 lengths of 1 by 4 at 34 ½ inches long each or piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 14 by 34 ½ inches.
If using 1 by 4 then join them with pocket holes.
Then either fix side rails as supports at desired location or use a shelf pin jig to drill holes where you want the shelf and support it with shelf pins.
The wood for the shelf is not included in the shopping list or cut list.
Step 20: Finish
Sand well to smooth our joints and remove any wood glue residue.
Apply Pre stain and your choice of color or paint as desired.
Step 21: Add Hardware
Add hardware of your choice.
I also fit magnetic latches to the inside of the doors and frame to stop the doors from going inside the cabinet.