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Epic Basement Renovation!

Epic Basement Renovation!
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A warning to the weak willed! A basement renovation can be trying to your patience, the patience of your co-dwellers, and that of your credit card! That said, it's also a whole lot of fun! After all, who wouldn't want to smash stuff with a giant hammer, fill a room with concrete dust, or paste huge sheets of styrofoam to the walls? Yeah, I couldn't think of anyone either.

This is a massive instructable, containing over 430 photos for your viewing pleasure. The different stages of the renovation will be separated by title pages, where you'll find a list of the tools you'll probably need, and materials you'll likely use. Feel free to use any or all of the different sections in your own renovation as required.

Now for the disclaimer: I am not a general contractor, nor do I have any construction training per se. However, I'm a very handy guy, I read a lot of books and how-to websites, and got plenty of help from my elders. The information presented in this instructable is as accurate as I could manage, and chances are nothing will go terribly wrong. If you're ever unsure of what you're doing, then stop, step back, and take a few minutes to think about it. Read instructions over again or find a second opinion.

Now, grab your sledge hammer and demolition saw, it's time to get started!

Sections:

Planning and Permits
Demolition
Foundation Inspection
Repairs and Waterproofing
Insulation
Framing
Electrical
Ductwork
Drywall
Painting
Doors
Windows
Built-in shelving
Flooring
Baseboards and Trim
Final Steps and Conclusion
 
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Step 1Planning

Planning
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OK, put the sledge and saw back down, you won't need them for a while. Instead, grab a tape measure, some graph paper and a pencil. It's time to make some plans.

First, draw a scale drawing of the space you're planning to renovate. Include the outside walls, interior supporting walls, existing doors and windows, existing ductwork, plumbing fixtures, and any other immovable objects in the room. You likely won't be touching these (and I won't tell you how!) so you'll have to plan around them.

Next you have to consider what the new space will be used for. Are you going to put in a bathroom? An extra bedroom? Perhaps a workshop or office... Take your time to really think about what you want to build down there. After all, it will be more or less permanent, so you want it to be a useful space for a long time. You should also resist the urge to carve up a basement space into a lot of small rooms - it will end up feeling like a dungeon.

Also remember that each type of room will have a few requirements stipulated by your local building code that you must follow. For instance, a bedroom will probably need a large window for egress (emergency exit) if there is no secondary exit in the basement. Take these requirements into consideration as you make your plans so that you don't get stuck later on (or worse yet, receive a failing grade from the building inspector!)

In this instructable I will be using my own renovation as an example. I started with an 11x22 foot space that was divided into two rooms, a workshop and an empty room. Well, empty aside from a rather quaint toilet stall!
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73 comments
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Mar 17, 2012. 8:53 AMidclaire26 says:
Looks nice! I was wondering how your floor is holding up after a few years. I've been doing some research on waterproofing my basement and I have not seen anyone else use that type of vapor barrier...just other (and much more expensive) options that I am hoping to avoid. Have you had any problems with moisture seeping through or causing problems underneath the flooring?
Mar 24, 2012. 7:10 PMidclaire26 says:
Good to know, thanks! I just found out during the inspection that the house I'm buying has already been waterproofed, so at least that part is already taken care of :) Will still do a moisture test regardless.
Jun 11, 2010. 8:19 AMflymom says:
Most likely, those are spaced like that (the staggered pieces between the studs) as a fire block. This is code in some areas. It prevents, or at the very least slows the spread of fire up the interior of the wall. Homes built without these in an exterior wall may find their attic on fire before they even know there is a fire in the wall.
May 3, 2010. 4:29 AMsteveastrouk says:
Think I'd be wearing steel toe cap boots during the demolition. Nails through the instep are not nice....
May 3, 2010. 8:05 AMsteveastrouk says:
Beautiful work, and a stunningly complete 'ible
Well done.
Steve
Mar 14, 2010. 8:03 PMnimuscagetrv says:
 Did you have to use anything to hold the foamboards in place while the PL300 was curing or are they light enough not to require that? (The user manual that comes with it says you need to use some type of a fastener to keep things under pressure until cured. ) Also, how long did it take in your case to dry?

Feb 25, 2010. 6:22 PMnimuscagetrv says:
 What would happen if/when adhesive eventually fails? Would  you rely on the studs holding the foam and things remaining airtight?
Jan 11, 2010. 10:52 AMthevince says:
I love Roxul too, I'm planning to use it for my basement reno, as well.
but dude, Roxul isn't fiberglass -- it's mineral fiber, so it doens't make you as itchy as fiberglass though.  You still need the breathing / eye protection like you describe. :D
Dec 19, 2009. 10:34 AMtyler9613 says:
Have you noticed a significant change in your energy bill from the fiberglass insulation? I'm debating on whether or not it's necessary with the foam panels...I am on a very limited budget...
Sep 3, 2009. 6:21 AMdu fox says:
amazing instructable!!
Aug 16, 2009. 10:07 AMkrauser says:
Thanks very much for putting this together. It has given me the confidence to attempt this huge task myself.
Aug 17, 2009. 3:03 PMkrauser says:
That is excellent advise! I will definitely follow it. Thanks again! Eric
May 18, 2009. 3:20 PMcaptain Jack says:
very thorough. lots of detail in lots of different trades. well done.
Apr 11, 2009. 12:36 PMfiggalicous says:
EPIC
Mar 2, 2009. 9:44 AMhorsesbreed says:
You say you used 1 thick foam board but under materials you say you need 2 thick foam board. Which one did you use? BTW this instructable is a lot of help!
Jan 27, 2009. 5:21 PMImagoX says:
I have a question about the drywall... I read somewhere eles that the proper way to install wall drywall is to use the sheets HORIZONTALLY and to never butt a seam up against the edge of a door casement or window. Instead, you're supposed to cover OVER the door/window opening and overlap at least 14" and then "cut out" the opening. Putting the seam (I read) against the door is inviting a crack in the wall. You're also supposed to stagger the seams so that the sheetrock can never crack all th way up or down - only the width of a sheet. You, however, put the sheets in vertically which does seem amazingly easy - having the seams lone up every time on a stud is a wonderful time saver. How is this holding up for you? Any cracking? Are the "rules" (if they are in fact rules and not hearsay) different since these are not load bearing walls perhaps? Thanks so much for what I think is the BEST Instructable! I plan to do a basement now because of this!!
Jan 28, 2009. 5:36 AMImagoX says:
Ah... that makes sense about the vibration into the wall. So the gap was covered by trim - that's a good way to do it - I'll keep that in mind. In my planned renovation there's only one door, leading to an unfinished storage area, so that sounds pretty simple. Thanks again for taking the time to document all this - it's VERY helpful. Before reading this I was just resigned to paying someone to do this, but seeing how you broke the large task up into a series of not-too-hard smaller steps has inspired me. Can't wait for the desk Instructable! Best of luck to you... -Matt
Jan 28, 2009. 9:36 AMImagoX says:
Can I ask you what laser level you ended up using? Most of the ones I'm seeing only say they draw a horizontal line... looks like that's a tool with a bazillion uses. Looking forward to the desk - thanks again.
Jan 26, 2009. 5:11 PMBruster says:
I see you left quite a space around the windows. Why? And also what about the water line. Will the fiberglass batt insulation in the stud wall be sufficient?
Jan 23, 2009. 12:08 PMSamuel Bernier says:
Wow, a lot of details! I'll keep notes of these tricks. (The little girl on the picture is so cute! Is it your daughter?) I really like all your Instructables.. I'll try making nice pumpkin like your's next halloween. -Sam
Jan 20, 2009. 1:03 PMhorsesbreed says:
Are you saying the floor should be moisture proofed as well as the wall?
Jan 17, 2009. 10:39 AMhorsesbreed says:
What's the difference between the Foam Adhesive and the 'Great Stuff' insulating foam?
Jan 8, 2009. 6:17 PMcory.smith says:
Instructables like this make this website so great! Awesome! I have done 2 basements now, and I have run into various problems. I was unable to do anything like you did, as the floor was already finished with stamped concrete before I was to do framing, and the joists were 7' 10" above the floor. Thanks for the instructable!
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Author:jeff-o
By day, Jeff is an electronics technologist at a large aeronautics corporation. By night, a mad scientist / hacker / artist / industrial designer wannabe!