Step 37: Installing Windows - Installing the Window

The first step is to permanently attach the frame to the concrete. Remove all the frame members, taking note of where they go.

Again, start with the bottom first. Lay a thick bead of construction adhesive around the perimeter of the wood on each of the sides facing concrete. Paste it down. Do the top next - hold it in place with one of the side pieces. Finally, glue down the side pieces, putting glue on the sides facing concrete and the top and bottom frame pieces.

As soon as everything is glued in place it should be screwed down. I used two screws for the side pieces and three for the bottom. I didn't put any screws in the top because there was very little to screw onto. Drill straight through the wood and into the concrete using a hammer drill, then drive in the Tapcon screws with a power drill.

Once the glue is dry you can install the windows. I used the same construction adhesive to glue the window in place as I used before. First, dry-fit the window to work out spacing. The fit should be close, but not tight. If the fit is too loose you can insert shims. If it's really loose then you can glue in a 1x6 to fill the gap.

The glue will be applied to the frame, and the window will be slid into place. Apply a double bead of glue all around the inside of the frame where the window will be. Hoist the window into place, ensuring that the inside of the window faces into the room (obvious, I know). Then, wiggle it around until it's positioned properly. Immediately wipe off any excess glue that got squished out with a damp rag.

The fit with my windows was so tight that I didn't need any shims. However, yours might. Using the shims in the same manner as you would for shimming in a door, center the window in the frame so that it is level and perfectly perpendicular. Use a small 12" level to help get it perfect.

Once the glue is dry, look for air gaps. Try to spot light shining through or feel for air movement. Any small gaps can be filled with adhesive, and larger gaps can be filled using a piece of foam backer rod.

The last step is to seal up everything with a bead of caulking. Apply the bead where the wood meets concrete, where wood meets wood, and where the window meets the frame. Do both inside the window and out. Use a damp finder to smooth out the caulking for a nice finish. When the caulking is dry, paint the wood frame with weatherproof paint.


Hi..what laser level were you using? I've been looking for one that wont cost a fortune.
Extremely helpful! Hat off to you!
Looks nice! I was wondering how your floor is holding up after a few years. I've been doing some research on waterproofing my basement and I have not seen anyone else use that type of vapor barrier...just other (and much more expensive) options that I am hoping to avoid. Have you had any problems with moisture seeping through or causing problems underneath the flooring?
No moisture or mold issues as far as I can tell. But, we have a relatively dry basement. Before starting on a basement flooring project I'd suggest doing a moisture test - tape a 1 square meter piece of plastic to the floor and let it sit for a week or two. If no water condenses under the plastic in that time, then you're good to go!
Good to know, thanks! I just found out during the inspection that the house I'm buying has already been waterproofed, so at least that part is already taken care of :) Will still do a moisture test regardless.
Most likely, those are spaced like that (the staggered pieces between the studs) as a fire block. This is code in some areas. It prevents, or at the very least slows the spread of fire up the interior of the wall. Homes built without these in an exterior wall may find their attic on fire before they even know there is a fire in the wall.
Think I'd be wearing steel toe cap boots during the demolition. Nails through the instep are not nice....<br />
Agreed.&nbsp; And for most of the renovation, I did!&nbsp; Many of the pictures taken here were, *ahem*, posed a little...&nbsp; ;)<br />
Beautiful work, and a stunningly complete 'ible<br /> Well done. <br /> Steve<br />
Thanks.<br /> <br /> I have plans to do a bathroom this summer.&nbsp; Hopefully I'll find the time to do it!<br />
&nbsp;Did you have to use anything to hold the foamboards in place while the PL300 was curing or are they light enough not to require that? (The user manual that comes with it says you need to use some type of a fastener to keep things under pressure until cured. ) Also, how long did it take in your case to dry?<br /> <br />
Nothing in particular.&nbsp; I stuck the boards down, pulled them off for a minute or two, then stuck them back on as per instructions.&nbsp; After that, they stuck all by themselves quite nicely.&nbsp; The foam boards aren't heavy at all, and PL300 is very, very sticky.<br /> <br /> I'm not sure how long they took to dry.&nbsp; Unused glue squeezed from the tube and left in the open air took about a day to get rock hard.<br />
&nbsp;What would happen if/when adhesive eventually fails? Would &nbsp;you rely on the studs holding the foam and things remaining airtight?
Presumably the adhesive is intended to be permanent.&nbsp; But, in the unlikely event that it does fail, the second layer of insulation pasted on top, plus the tape, plus the studs on top should hold it in place.<br />
I love Roxul too, I'm planning to use it for my basement reno, as well.<br /> but dude, Roxul isn't fiberglass -- it's mineral fiber, so it doens't make you as itchy as fiberglass though.&nbsp; You still need the breathing / eye protection like you describe. :D<br />
Yeah, someone informed me of my mistake on a different step.&nbsp; Whoops!&nbsp; But, it doesn't really matter which you use; either fiberglass or mineral fiber (aka rock wool) will work here.<br />
Have you noticed a significant change in your energy bill from the fiberglass insulation? I'm debating on whether or not it's necessary with the foam panels...I am on a very limited budget...<br />
Hard to say how much more of a difference the fiberglass makes, since it was installed at the same time as the foam.&nbsp; The top of the wall feels *slightly* warmer than the bottom, but that may be because heat rises.<br /> <br /> Think about it this way:&nbsp; a basement renovation is something you're likely to do once.&nbsp; It'll cost a few hundred more to pack in more insulation, but in the long run it's worth doing really well.&nbsp; The foam panels will likely give you your minimum R-value to meet code, but I'm a fan of exceeding code where possible.<br />
amazing instructable!!
Thanks very much for putting this together. It has given me the confidence to attempt this huge task myself.
No problem! Breaking it into smaller parts, taking time to think things through, and asking lots of questions (and asking for help!) will help you get through it. Oh, and one other thing: Don't lose your momentum. Always do something every day, and don't do anything else until it's done. Make sure that everyone else in the household understands this as well.
That is excellent advise! I will definitely follow it. Thanks again! Eric

About This Instructable




Bio: By day, Jeff is the Jack of All Robots at Clearpath Robotics. By night, a mad scientist / hacker / artist / industrial designer wannabe!
More by jeff-o:Facet V1 Velomobile Simple Rock-Solid Cantilever Desk Polychromatic Harley Deluxe 
Add instructable to: