European 4-in-1 maille (chainmail) speedweaving

 by Paul the Mole
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First of all: maille, mail, chainmail... their all different words for the same thing. I like to use the word maille, but I'm sure some like the other words better.

Maille is a form of armour. It was invented by the Celts and it became very popular in the middle ages, where it was used as 'standard' armour for allmost all soldiers, because it's flexible and prevents cuts from swords, knives etc. Nowadays maille is made for other re-enactments, as 'alternative' clothing, or just for fun like I do.

Back in the days maille was made out of mild steel rings which were riveted. Which means: a lot of work. Today most of the maille is made out of steel wire. And it's not riveted anymore. It's called "butted".

The most common weave is without a doubt "European 4-in-1" (or E 4-1). This is the way the rings were linked in Europe in the middle ages. I'll come back later on the 4-in-1 thing.

I'm Belgian and I live in Brugge (Bruges). But when I was a child, I visited the "Gravensteen" (that's a castle castle) in Gent. There, someone was making maille at the time. I found it very fascinating and the thought of making some my own never leaved my mind really. Some time ago I started making my own maille. Currently I'm making a coif (have a look on Google Images if you don't know what a coif is).

The technique I use is called "speedweaving" because it's one of the fastest ways to make maille. What I will describe is not the only way to speedweave, but this is the one I use, and which works great for me. I did not invent this technique. I'm just sharing it with the world...
 
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Step 1: Making the rings

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Let's start making rings.

I used galvanised steel wire. For two reasons: it's easily obtainable and it's cheap. My wire is 1,5 mm thick.

Making rings starts with transforming your wire into coils. And than cutting the coils with a mini bolt-cutter. I won't describe the whole coil-making process but I'll include some pictures of the way I do it. Perhaps I will come back to writing this piece out one day.

My coils have an inner diameter (ID) of 6 mm, but because of a thing called "springback" the rings have a real inner diameter (RID) of 6,4 mm). My rings have an aspect ratio (AR) of 4,3. This is the ratio of RID and the wire size.
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Gorlakkur says: May 15, 2013. 12:21 AM
Great instructable, and great taste in music too! :-)
Professur says: May 21, 2009. 10:23 AM
The real grief is when you've gotten past the 4x4 inch squares and wind up with 8lbs of steel hanging off the end of your pliers while you're trying to join one more link. I started a mine as a time killer while working graveyard shift at a hotel front desk. After the third pair of mini-cutters, I started cutting the links with a cut off wheel on a Dremel. Much nicer butt ends.
mando_jtt in reply to ProfessurAug 22, 2009. 7:08 AM
(removed by author or community request)
bamajax in reply to mando_jttNov 22, 2009. 9:21 PM
Ahh, yet another fellow Night Audit.  Welcome to the group!
repguy2020 in reply to bamajaxMay 12, 2013. 1:49 AM
Yes, the sleep-deprived, waaayyyy-too-much-time-on-our-hands group. =)
Jordans114 says: Apr 2, 2013. 6:09 PM
Hi! I am really interested in making some of this stuff, but I am having a hard time finding wire. I'm looking for Stainless Steel wire with a dimension of 16g SWG = 14g AWG = 0.063'' = 1.6mm. I live in Ontario, Canada, in the Waterloo region, if that helps anyone
DehLeprechaun says: Nov 12, 2011. 9:28 AM
Good Gravy!! If it took you 50 HOURS to do that coif then my plan for full body coverage of mail will NEVER happen, that's out the window...
sconner1 in reply to DehLeprechaunFeb 26, 2013. 11:07 AM
There's great pleasure to be taken from the satisfaction that you invested the time it takes to finish a long project. One can take a bag of rings along for all those wasted time of our lives like waiting or riding public transit where some might bring a book or knitting. Just make strips to assemble later as opposed to the whole project.
trlababalan3000 in reply to DehLeprechaunJul 22, 2012. 4:22 PM
50 hours of speedweaving sounds funny xD
I'mma give it a shot and include some of my friends in making it. It's very cheap for what you get out of it :)
sokamiwohali in reply to DehLeprechaunNov 27, 2011. 6:13 PM
that aint nothing!!! i spent 50 hours making a 2" bracelet out of 24GA stearling silver rings. the bracelet was made for my son before he was born, and when he was born, it fit PERFECTLY.
DehLeprechaun in reply to sokamiwohaliJan 15, 2012. 10:30 PM
yup, still not gonna happen!!!
sokamiwohali in reply to DehLeprechaunJan 16, 2012. 7:27 AM
a coif is a bit more complicated than a full ody maille suit tho. i made half a hauberk vest that went to my waist in about 3 or so hours...not counting the prep time (i made my own rings for that).
bored0ne says: Oct 30, 2012. 8:54 PM
How do you form it into shirts,hats,etc? Is there a template or something?
lucek says: Jun 29, 2012. 7:55 PM
Now make it much finer and in silver.
ilpug says: Mar 13, 2012. 10:38 AM
So, long story short, to make rings your tightly coil steel wire on a long metal rod, then remove the coil and snip it. I like it.

I also like the explained method- not bad!
funwithfire325 says: Aug 3, 2007. 11:37 AM
is this a hobby are is it fun? yes im serios
sokamiwohali in reply to funwithfire325Nov 27, 2011. 6:09 PM
Chain mail is one of those limitless types of hobbies. i specialize in making jewelry out of chainmaille...i can make womens lingere, bathing suits (prolly not the best thing to wear when swimming but hey if your good enough at swimming than why the heck not?...lol)
the.rollie in reply to funwithfire325Jul 16, 2011. 12:43 AM
if you like chainmail then yes ,i can be fun. any hobby is as fun as you let it be
InspectorD says: Jun 23, 2007. 1:39 PM
Man, You have too much time on your hands. It seems that it would take weeks to make anything of any size that would be useful.
scalarcharge in reply to InspectorDJul 12, 2009. 10:57 AM
try months. and where do you think (aside from shark attacks) that chain mail would be useful? it's just cool
Lord Jon Bigglesworth in reply to scalarchargeNov 11, 2011. 12:41 AM
Actually, maille is much better suited to fending off bladed sweeping attacks (although a form of it is used for crazy people wishing to dive with sharks).
HOMEPIE64 in reply to InspectorDJun 25, 2007. 7:37 PM
as I said to someone else you are on a fricken website that is only diy where you spend fricken time doing projects and learning how are you saying that being a member of instructables(im not looking for confrentation im looking at a point of the matter)
Austringer in reply to InspectorDJun 24, 2007. 12:03 AM
My trick during college was to keep a handful of rings and my pliers in my backpack. There are about 20 times a day when I found myself having just enough time to put a handful of rings together. When the piece got too big to haul around I thew it in my closet. When I had a pile of them, I put them together into a shirt.
RFilyaw in reply to AustringerMar 29, 2008. 9:11 PM
Duh, that's what Nintendo DS is for. Just kidding! But seriously, Instructables.com is for wasting time when time ought be wasted.
SFHandyman in reply to RFilyawJul 13, 2009. 10:38 PM
Someone criticized my "How to Make Butter" video on YouTube as a waste of time. (I uploaded it to illustrate my How to Make Butter Instructable)

Commenter #1: "Ever heard of Land O lakes? Too much work for so little yield. Does it taste that much "fresher" than just getting butter from the store?"

Commenter #2 "that's what i was thinkin :). would be good if you're retired i guess and really bored "

My reply "I find it funny that you thought it was a waste of time when you just watched a ten minute video on how to make butter --- but you don't want to make butter. hahaha / jk"

Commenter 2: "you may have a point there :) ".
emrose says: Nov 10, 2009. 10:59 AM
This step 4, pic 2.... my brain simply won't register this step!  I think the pliers are hiding what I need to see.  If anyone could help I'd sure appreciate it!
Thanks!
dwilkie in reply to emroseJun 8, 2010. 3:18 AM
The middle ring of the three is joined to the two rings on the right hand side 2 pieces of the 5 you made already. So like this:
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Lord Jon Bigglesworth in reply to dwilkieNov 10, 2011. 10:46 PM
I was with emrose. Thanks!
tinker234 says: Aug 14, 2011. 5:43 PM
wow how small can i make the chain mail also could i use titam andd other materials to absorb shock to make a retlvy bullet proof material
Lord Jon Bigglesworth in reply to tinker234Nov 10, 2011. 10:42 PM
Allow me to elaborate upon why chain mail cannot deflect bullets. Chain mail is made out of tiny rings (which we already know). Therefore, it acts similarly to a suspended cloth, a curtain for example. If you were to hit that curtain with a baseball bat, it would simply move out of the way. The same would happen if you were to take a sweep at it with a somewhat unsharpened sword. However, were you to fire an arrow at the curtain, the arrow would puncture it entirely. This is due to the fact that the arrow cuts by putting an incredible amount of pressure on a very small point, whereas a sword sweep puts a lesser amount of pressure on a much larger area. Chain mail works by stopping a few points on that blade with the rings, because if one point on the edge is stopped, physics denies all other points on that blade passage. However, an arrow (or bullet, I suppose) is concentrated on so small a point that it is highly unlikely the small surface area of the rings would be able to catch it. Even if the arrow were to hit one of the rings, there is so much pressure that the ring would be forced inwards into the person wearing the armor. It is interesting to note that a bow and arrow can puncture Kevlar, because it relies on both speed and sharpness to kill, while bullets are considerably more blunt since they have overwhelming speeds. The Kevlar can stop them by spreading out the force, as long as it is not punctured. Why don't we all carry crossbows? I do not know. Long story short, there is a reason why bows were so popular and so deadly, and why rich people liked plate armor.
acombs3 in reply to tinker234Oct 28, 2011. 9:33 AM
1. Maille can be as small as you want, but to make smaller maille you will need smaller wire.

2. Yes, titanium can be used to make maille. Titanium wire, as well as other hard to find maille supplys can be purchased at theringlord.com.

3. Maille is not, and will not be bullet proof. Period. It was designed to deflect blades, and is not much good at anything else. If you are hit by a bullet while wearing maille, the bullet will most likely shatter the wire and drive it into your body; that would hurt.
tinker234 in reply to acombs3Nov 4, 2011. 3:41 PM
ahh okay thanks
ltailer in reply to tinker234Sep 17, 2011. 3:58 PM
by titam i asume u mean titanium second this would be impossible titanium is one of the most rigid metals on earth second to tungsten you could never bend them into shape also there is only one place on earth you can cut it so sorry.
Javin007 in reply to ltailerSep 6, 2012. 8:36 AM
"Only one place on earth you can cut it..." Are you smoking something? Titanium wire and jump rings are easily purchased from any number of places, and just as easily cut. You've been reading too many comic books. This isn't adamantium we're talking about here...
sokamiwohali in reply to ltailerNov 27, 2011. 6:06 PM
I am throwing in the BS towel. you can make titanium rings, and you can maille with it. and theres not one place on earth that can cut titanium rings. The Ring Lord based in Canada makes and cuts their own rings and then sells them for use as chain maille. its just a little difficult to work with cause its pretty springy.
tinker234 in reply to ltailerSep 17, 2011. 5:21 PM
yeah sorry about my spelling
isaac9324 in reply to tinker234Sep 6, 2011. 7:57 PM
Im sorry but no chain mail is going to be bullet proof no mater what material it's made of. If you want bullet proof armor that's not a BP vest get some 1/8 in. steel plates those were early BP vest. 1/8 in. is probably alittle overkill on it but ya kno.
tinker234 in reply to isaac9324Sep 9, 2011. 2:01 PM
i mean on top of some other bllet proof things just so it its easer maybe in the futre
ltailer in reply to tinker234Sep 17, 2011. 4:10 PM
adding the chain mail would just add dead weight you want it to be bullet proof you will need top of of the line mail made with using sumthing like silicone carbide and several layer's of it and i mean several as in like 7 3 or 4 i mean 7 or 8
ilpug in reply to ltailerMar 13, 2012. 10:40 AM
That would make it unrealistically heavy. Bullet proof vests are simply best.
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