Step 8: Tanning option 2 Alcohol turpentine

Mix the tanning solution in the jar add equall parts alcohol and turpentine one half pint each should be enough for squrriel or rabbit skins. Then put the skins in the solution and shake it atleast once a day because the alcohol and turpentine will seperate after awhile. After 7 to 10 days take the pelt out of the solution and wash it in dishwashing soap to get all of the alcohol and turpentine out of the pelt. Rinse the pelt afew times and squeeze do not wring. After thats done rub neatsfeet oil into the skin and your done.
when doing the alcohol turpentine tanning proscess do you need to flesh it still before putting it in the solution
My cow hide is in salt process and is really hard can this be fixed???
In the salt process the skin will be stiff as a board. This is okay because after the tanning process you will rub you hide on a tree branch or some 550 paracord pulled really tight and tied off
Sorry ut took so long fir a reply. What you need to do after the tanning process is rub the hide back and forth on a tree branch intill it is soft and flexable. This may take some time and sime force.
<p>i find that i can do this a lot easier but it may not have the best outcome. i skin and flesh it. then i wash it in warm water and tack it to a board and salt it. then i take it of and shake it out and comb it. next i wok it by braking the fibers. this works for me but as i say, it may not have the best outcome</p>
<p>I am having trouble with my small animal pelts, they are dry and stiff even when I used the Neats foot oil just becomes oily, what I am doing wrong! </p>
<p>To get your small animal pelts soft you need to &quot;break&quot; them. This should happen before the neatsfoot oil, because you'll need to get the skin wet. Don't get it too wet, or it will make the hair slip--just wet enough that it becomes flexible. Then work the hide by hand--stretch it, until you see the skin turn just a bit white in the stretched area. If you're working with thin skins, don't use much pressure or you'll rip them. <br><br>It's going to take time. The tanned skins still have strong collage-fibers linking the leather together, and when these dry, they're very hard, like callouses on the heels of your feet. When you &quot;break&quot; the skin, you're overstretching the fibers, so they can't set up stiff again. But you'll need to keep the skin moving as it dries--and even dampen it again sometimes as you work--or these fibers will contract when they dry out. Once you've broken the skin, you can rub leather conditioner (mink oil, mineral oil, neatsfoot oil, etc.) into it and the pelt should remain flexible. (I've heard that neatsfoot oil is corrosive over time. Mineral oil might be better.) </p>
<p>This is a very good starting point for someone such as myself, who has never tanned a skin before. Another idea would be for one on hides that you don't want to preserve the hair. Thanks!</p>
very well documented instructable. I am looking forward to seeing future additions when you try different methods.
Thanks a guy also messaged me and said he has pics of him brain tanning a hide when he sends them to me ill add brain tanning too. Is there anything i can add to make this Instructable better? Input is veary appreciated.
brain tanning is rather cleaner in my honest pinion
I have read a few other guides to preserving a hide and one thing that keeps coming up is that they recommend technical grade salt .. or if you can't get that non-iodized salt. <br> <br>I noticed that you used Iodized salt. Did you notice any problems because you used the iodized salt? <br>
Nope i did not have any problems at all. I think i bought non iodized salt at walmart but i dont really see the driffernce to be honest. But non idozed salt works just fine i think buying that technical grade salt is just a waste of money.
a little more research turned this up ..<br> <br> A quote from a tanning authority.... Posted by Tony Dingess on Jul 10 2004<br> <br> This is a quote I found on Taxidermy.net from one of the best known experts on tanning in the US (Bruce Rittel):<br> &quot;Iodized or Non-Iodized? This response submitted by Bruce Rittel on 10/28/1998. ( rittel@ici.net )<br> <br> Doug - <strong>it really doesn't matter whether you use iodized or non-iodized Salt. For tanning however, the non-iodized type has always been preferred, because in bulk its usually much cheaper. The Iodine simply has no effect on your tanning.</strong> In Iodized Salt, because it was intended for human consumption, it was added simply to prevent Goiter problems. There's a new additive out too, call Yellow Prusaite of Soda. Its an anti-clumping agent the manufacturers are adding to their Salt. It wont affect your tanning - but you have to be mindful of your Ph. It slightly raises it, so your solution may be a bit higher. As long as you're aware of it, and can compensate for it, you should be OK. When you buy its always best to ask for 100% Salt. If it says anything less, check it for an additive. Happy Tanning. Bruce &quot;
Those little ALUM plastic cans cost too much. Not a good idea!
Nice! Favourited! I'm hopefully going hunting for the first time this year! I'll be trying this if I'm successful!!
Thanks and good luck hunting... i got my first deer this past year and tanned the hide with some stuff i bought off ebay. its not too soft because i made mestakes but i learned from them... I keep seeing roadkill around my house im thinking about skining one of those up and ill post that too.
Haha! I can smell roadkill right now... Deer are like rats where I live... Maybe I'll keep an eye out for a fresher roadkill!
Yeah that is a great idea just please always wear gloves when working with roadkill it can get kinda nasty and you never know what they have lol.around me there is alot of roadkill raccoons.

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