Introduction: Evolution of a Ring Bender / Ring Roller Machine

Picture of Evolution of a Ring Bender / Ring Roller Machine

I read an interesting instructable about a metal bender and then I saw the most interesting photo of a theatrical workshop tool. I formulated an idea and it quickly turned into a new tool.

Step 1: Preparing the Vice

Picture of Preparing the Vice

I am only planning to bend aluminum and galvanized steel wire so I don't need a hydraulic jack and I know that drill press vices can be had for about $20. I decided to go get one and look for a roller of some kind at the same time. I ended up using a marine rubber roller. I assume they are used for ropes. It is hard rubber about 12in long and 2 inch in diameter with a 3/4in hole in the center. I figured it was about perfect to put a roller from a laser printer in the center.

The drill press vice comes with a puny piece of steel holding down the floating jaw. In my case I need a lower support for my roller so I needed to upgrade it. I found an old clamp piece from a bed frame that I had saved. It was solid and fit the bill nicely.  In addition to the rollers I also had some brass bushings and plastic bearings. I used a short piece of aluminum track and a little UHMW plastic to house the bushings. At the end I drilled down through my new hold-down plate. This will take all the forward thrust when I tighten the roller on the workpiece. Essentially this pushes the upper bearing back against the floating jaw.

If you don't have that I suggest you use an angle iron on the jaw like the original picture and then drill down through both to support your roller. A vice and a step drill bit make this operation a lot easier. A drill press is best but a vice is essential when drilling metal. Never attempt to drill metal without one.

Step 2: Let's Get Rolling

Picture of Let's Get Rolling

I cut a 2-1/2 inch piece off of the rubber roller using a band-saw. It cut very nicely and I'm sure it could have been done with a hack-saw. The rubber on the printer roller fit tightly inside the rubber. I tried to bend the roller to make a crank in the vice but realized I didn't have the strength so I cut it off and attached a wheel instead. 

Next I took two bed frame casters, added some electrical tape to make them bigger on the edges as opposed to narrower on the edge as they first appeared. I found some steel plates that seemed to be appropriate but could just as easily have used some angle iron. The 2x10 is added for a sturdy support. All the weight of the bender will push against it so I wanted to be sure it was solid. These plates ensured that the casters would not rotate. An added bonus that can be achieved by simply adding screws on either side of the brass frame of the caster. Drill into the wood where it seems like the center wheel has enough room to come right up in between.

I attached the caster frame to the jaw by drilling out the hole and removing the screws that hold the jaw. I saved the jaw for later and screwed it all down to a 2x10 piece I had laying around.

Step 3: Let's See It in Action

Picture of Let's See It in Action

I'm bending an 8 foot piece into a circle 2.5 feet in diameter. I tried it on the floor but realized I would have troubles. I decided to mount it on the fence. It was a good choice. While running the piece back and forth I noticed that the rubber wheel wormed itself away from the shaft when I fed the piece in from the left. If I fed from the right there was no problem. The rubber around the printer roller is being slowly destroyed while I operate but it's not so fast that I can't fix it. I'm thinking about silicon caulking.

It works like a charm and I will definitely be keep it around for bending jobs like this one. The best I could do by hand pales in comparison to what comes out of this thing. Once I figured where I wanted to set the roller I marked it. I loosened off and got the flat stock in there, reset the jaw and it curled up perfectly first roll through. The aluminum is work hardened and retains the curve well.


colinmcc (author)2016-10-18

Nicely done.. BTW guitar builders use a baby version of this idea to bend fret wire to match the radius of a guitar neck's fingerboard.

sconner1 (author)2012-05-10

If you flip the jig over so the center rolled comes down on the work, it will bend upward. Allowing you to place the jig on the floor and the work size is only limited by overhead space.

jds1969 (author)sconner12012-05-10

You are correct. I was just looking for a quick way to get going but that would have worked fine as well. I would have made a base plate or something for it to stand up on its end. Thanks.

juliadee (author)2012-05-06

A "vice" is a bad habit. A "vise" is a tool for clamping things.

reborne (author)juliadee2012-05-08

aaah, Juliadee, I too was gonna correct you and say that in the UK we call it a vice. Then I noticed he calls Aluminium "Aluminum" and decided you were probably right :-D LOL

juliadee (author)reborne2012-05-08


jds1969 (author)juliadee2012-05-08

Very witty.

jds1969 (author)juliadee2012-05-06

From Wikipedia:

A vise or vice (see American and British English spelling differences) is a mechanical screw apparatus used for holding or clamping a work piece to allow work to be performed on it with tools such as saws, planes, drills, mills, screwdrivers, sandpaper, etc. Vises usually have one fixed jaw and another, parallel, jaw which is moved towards or away from the fixed jaw by the screw.

derte84 (author)jds19692012-05-07

Nerdy answer, love it!

jds1969 (author)derte842012-05-07's not Facebook! :-)

pastorboy0 (author)2012-05-06

Neat project, one thing to note though: Aluminum doesn't work harden, it fatigues when subject to stress. The steel probably isn't retaining shape because it has some spring in it. If you anneal it with a torch (time and temperature vary with differing kinds of steel), it will retain its shape much better.

Who told you aluminium doesn't work harden? Strain or work hardening is one of the principle methods of strengthening aluminium alloys, especially those that can't be aged or heat treated. H-series alloys are all work-hardening, T-series alloys are hardened through heat treatment and aging (natural or artificial). Aluminium will certainly fatigue when subject to cyclic stress, but most metals will also. In fact, work hardening alloys are at potentially greater risk of fatigue failure due to localized over-hardening and embrittlement in high stressed areas.

jds1969 (author)pastorboy02012-05-06

I would recommend you not do that with plastic casters and a rubber wheel. In that case you might want to switch to metal wheels/rollers. The aluminum may fatigue but it certainly stiffens to hold the curve better than it held it's form as a straight bar.

NitroRustlerDriver (author)2012-05-06

FYI the marine roller you used is actually a roller for a boat trailer.


Bosun Rick (author)OleNavy2012-05-07

There were a lot of "Marine rollers" on Market Street in San Diego in 1968!

Thanks for letting me know. Makes sense.

jds1969 (author)Bosun Rick2012-05-07

Catching up on their "paperwork"?

mr monoply33 (author)2012-05-06

Hm...something to do with this steering wheel of a 1965 Chrysler I have laying around?

stringstretcher (author)2012-05-06

Can you run a piece through several times and decrease the radius each time (sharpen the bend?)

jds1969 (author)stringstretcher2012-05-06

Absolutely. I ran the first piece through at least 15 times slowly adjusting the curve. With the Aluminum bar it was pretty easy to correct if you over do it.

gkern (author)2012-05-06

A very nice solution to bending metal without breaking the bank. Just wondering if you can bend Round rod, or piping with your setup.

jds1969 (author)gkern2012-05-06

In further reply to your question, for pipe I would do something that I was considering anyway. I would add side-plates with openings designed to keep the material in the center of the rollers. I would likely cut them out of plywood.

jds1969 (author)gkern2012-05-06

I would call this a medium-duty tool. I'm not sure where steel would fail to bend or create so much pressure to break something. There are always ways to strengthen the design but eventually you're almost better off buying the real thing. Good luck.

markplease (author)2012-05-03

Where did the little steering wheel come from?

jds1969 (author)markplease2012-05-03

I think it was from a dishwasher, washing machine or dryer that I pulled apart after it failed. I was happy to have it. :-)

bfk (author)2012-05-03

Great use of odds and ends. Super idea.

Jason Bedard (author)2012-05-03

Great job, and well presented.

desertsniper (author)2012-04-30


TheFullMetalAlchemist (author)2012-04-29

Trick idea, very cool!

profpat (author)2012-04-29

cool design!

hjjusa (author)2012-04-28

I saw a fret roller, for bending guitar frets built on this principle, I couldn't afford it cause it was too expensive, so I made one out of three toy truck tires. I never thought of scaling it up like this though, excellent idea, I need some iron tires for a project I'm building

Dr Qui (author)2012-04-28

Thank you, you have just solved how I can roll a copper pipe into a tension ring for a Banjo Uke I have been collecting bits for. I can adapt your design to suit my job needs.

rimar2000 (author)2012-04-28

Nice design and neat work! That is a very useful tool.

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