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This is an extension of an earlier instructable where we built a 2 1/2 sheet dead-vertical indoor climbing wall (left in the picture). Six months later we set out to expand the woody with a roof section and an invert. wall. The technique, tools and materials are the same, but this expansion requires more complex framing (which some commenters claimed was a limitation of the last instructable).

As before, here's what you'll need:

  • Some 3/4" plywood (subflooring grade) - $20-ish a 4x8 sheet
  • Some 2x4s (or 2x6 or 2x8) for framing and such - $2-ish per 8'
  • 2" (or so) wood/drywall screws
  • 3/8" t-nuts (about 70 per sheet of plywood) - $0.15-ish a piece for galvinized
  • 3/8" hex cap bolts
  • Drill, hammer, saw
  • Something soft to work as a crash-pad
  • Beer...lots of beer
 
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Step 1: Framing

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How you frame will depend on what types of features and wall-angles you want as well as the area in which you chose to build. We made use of the 16-on-center 2x12 rafters in the ceiling for the majority of support as well as a set of over-built shelves that were on the wall from a past life.

Some things you might want for the framing:

  • Nails and a hammer (we had a pneumatic nail gun - yay)
  • Nail-plates - good for joining 2x4s
  • Skillsaw or a handsaw and a lot of patience
  • Level
  • Tape measure, square

Because a climbing wall faces dynamic loads in strange directions, it's not bad to overbuild it. Since we used the rafters for the primary support, it was natural to frame out at 16-inch intervals, clearly overkill, but that's okay.

In the photos you can see how we framed out the invert. wall, extended the crack machine into the ceiling, and added an angled box to the roof. The angled box serves two purposes - it adds a great feature and it avoids the careful task of moving a gas line.
cart562 says: May 28, 2012. 3:18 PM
the other comments about the title cracked me up =D
wazupdoc says: Dec 6, 2008. 11:18 AM
i am an advanced climber and i am making a 10 foot climbing tower in my back yard I want it to have slopers and lots of small med holds. I will need about 200 holds where do you think I should buy them?
zpollack in reply to wazupdocJul 11, 2010. 11:42 PM
i have a 30 ft wall in my barn and only used like 150 holds then removed some for more challenge. it has maybe 100 now and i made a grid so i can easily change out holds
cchilas in reply to wazupdocJun 7, 2010. 6:29 PM
Dude, you're only going to need 200 holds if you have a small gym. The point is to mix up the routes. The best wall is the one with the most interesting problems, not the one with the most holds.
rck_mtn_climber in reply to wazupdocAug 17, 2009. 1:51 PM
I am an advanced climber also, and I have a wall 12 feet high and 8 feet wide and I only needed 50 for 2 1/2 routes( thats just my needs) and some left over. I got the holds at 3 ball climbing.
cphillips (author) in reply to wazupdocDec 6, 2008. 12:43 PM
You might be able to get some sort of bulk discount on that many holds, I'm not sure. To start, I'd give these guys a call and see what a 200-hold set would cost: http://www.epusa.com/. You might also call metolius, etch, so-ill and other hold makers too. It's gonna be spendy. You might also consider just getting a 30 or 50 piece set from one of those guys and then buying more later, once you have a good idea of what you like and need to place. Good luck!
Yerboogieman says: Oct 11, 2009. 1:43 PM
lol, Woody, expand, dirty mind...
LinuxH4x0r says: Jan 14, 2008. 7:42 PM
Nice! Might want to change your title...
zpersichetti in reply to LinuxH4x0rApr 2, 2008. 2:44 PM
omfg rofl the titles so f---ing funny
RiddleOfSphinx in reply to zpersichettiApr 6, 2008. 12:46 AM
Could've been worse...he could have said "erect"...lmao
LinuxH4x0r in reply to RiddleOfSphinxApr 6, 2008. 5:54 AM
Lol, how to erect your woody!
F1X0R says: Feb 20, 2008. 2:03 PM
I may be undertaking a somewhat similar project some time soon. for the overhead panel I would have thought that it would be much easier to use acro bars. ( I can get my hands on them quickly). they are slightly over kill being that they are meant for use in demolition/construction, I:e smashing out a supporting wall whilst not allowing what's above you to cave in around your head, for replacing a Concrete lintel). They would work marvelously though. of corse the other option is rope and pulleys.
orksecurity says: Jan 16, 2008. 9:35 AM
For installing sheet goods high on walls, or overhead, I highly recommend renting a wallboard jack. Yes, you can do it with manpower, ladders, and T-braces... but being able to just crank the plywood or wallboard or foamboard into place and have it stay there while you drive the fasteners speeds the task tremendously. Rental cost is usually not bad, the jack folds to fit in a trunk, and using one of these it's actually possible to install a ceiling without assistants.
bop96 says: Jan 15, 2008. 7:33 PM
NICE woody. :)
killerjackalope says: Jan 15, 2008. 9:46 AM
A long flat tyre lever is great for position stuff like this, you can lean into it to do the fine stuff while stretching your other arm back to lift, it helps to have a friend for fixing them to the wal as you sometimes lose the balance when you pick up your tools
kruser495 says: Jan 14, 2008. 3:04 PM
not what i thought this was going to be about....lol
GorillazMiko says: Jan 14, 2008. 2:41 PM
Great Instructable, nice job getting featured.
Patrik says: Jan 14, 2008. 1:54 PM
Very snigger-worthy title - thanks! :-)
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