When your done you will have changed salt from sodium cholride to sodium chlorate. Which when mixed with aluminum can make a very powerful explosive powder.
You might also wana try mixing some Drano-lye-sodium hydroxide-caustic soda into the bottle when electrolyzing the mix. it might speed it up and make for purer sodium chlorate
Warning: Drano-Lye-Sodium hydroxide is nasty shnitzle
i got some in my eyes when i was makeing a drano bomb well i was trying to make a row of 4 and one exploded early in my face
it burned for like 30 mins then my eyes watered for like 5 days
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Warning: this is a unstable explosive it can explode if exposed to static or shock so do not shake
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This can make low to med quality Sodium Chlorate when compared to a bomb i made whith potasium nitrate (grants stump remover)
all results are rough compared useing frame by frame Fps
All mixed with aluminum real Black powder being the control
potasium nitrate 80%
sodium chlorate 60%
New Add on
Battery times
1 9V 2 Days
2 9V 1 Day
3 9V 12HR
Power Wheelz Battery 8H
Duck tape :
According to my research, you should not mix chlorates with sulfur or sulfides, other wise the mixture will become shock and friction sensitive when moist.
glassspider2142says:
use stainles steel for the elictrolisis, as in fuelcells, it wont be eaten, im going to use my fuel cell to make this stuff.
use salt with out iodein as it stains evry thing it touches.
mind you , you can use iodein in some explosives may make it more powerfull.
Duck tape
(i think)
You need to boil it, or it won't work. Apparently, you are making sodium hydroxide. Then, the chlorine gas bubbles through it to make sodium hypochlorite. The sodium hypochlorite has to be decomposed into sodium chlorate by way of boiling the solution
i am sory i can not help i am closeing this instructable nothing new will be added
as of now
this works and if i will not work for you it is becouse you did not do a step right
++ Kill Wog
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Signing UpStep 1: The First thing
Step 1: Get the first ingredient - you can grind down one of the following you can get ahold of:
aluminum
(get a coffee grinder and grind some aluminum foil into powder)
(break an etch-a-sketch open)
magnesium
(any store in the camping Coleman section its that silvery rectangle grind it)
zinc =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
(98% zinc in pennies after the 90's) Do not Deface money the Fed's put chips in them
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
(zinc stops rust on boats and tires most tires have a zinc
sugar(poor performance basicaly makes it just smoke)
=========================================================================
warning: Do not inhale the dust from an etch-a-sketch or when grinding because yo can die






























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this is how it works
nacl+3H2O= NaClO3+ 3H2
and another thing, it is pssible to do this at lower temperatures, to keep the salt from forming a hydroxide simply add hydrochloric acid in every now and then but it will take a VERY long time.
also the author failed to mention a thing about the most ready avalible electrode avalible, the carbon rod, which can be found inside any dry cell battery ( not lithium or rechargable).
another thing,the blue stuff is normal if your using copper as the electrode, that blue stuff is simpy copper oxide, the problem with your reaction is its too cold and the salt isnt oxidizing, the electrode is. btw if you burn that blue stuff it will make a green flame
lastly, as i pointed out before, adding hydrochloric acid will get you a better yeild of naclo3, plus any exess will avapourate when it cant turn into sodium chloride
hcl + naoh = nacl + h20
it will nuetralise as soon as the hydroxide is formed
To get sodium chlorate, you need to do an electrolysis of a HOT (>80 degrees celcius) sodium chloride (table salt) solution: NaCl+H2O=NaClO3+H2. Otherwise, you will get internal injuries from the chlorine gas (die).
Sorry for my englisch. =)
I'm running it 12V at 5.84A and I can make perchlorates with this electrode so in 4 days I'll have sodium perchlorate.
check out this calculator thats what I used to calculate running time.
<<MAIN 120V AC IN>>
ac 120 in <transformer> ac less than 3.3-12v out
ac 3.3-12v in <<diode><capacitor>> to convert it to pure dc
<>out<>
The computer will send pure DC power on one wire and two others for the actual data signals. Pin config: +5 data- data+ ground (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#USB_cables) :-)
btw, Don't throw away the Manganese Dioxide from the batteries, it is a good oxidizer too, but I couldn't get it to ignite with aluminum powder.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manganese_dioxide
It's an oxidizer, or the "depolarizing" agent in carbon-zinc batteries (no clue what that is). I think it's only acidic in alkaline batteries. Don't try alkaline batteries, they are more nasty to open up and don't even have carbon rods.
It's not too dangerous, just don't eat it and don't breath it in. If you're looking for something to do with it, mix it with hydrogen peroxide and make oxygen.
You really need the carbon anode.
It wouldn't hurt to add some sodium hydroxide to the brine before you start.
And I'm really doubtful that this method can even get up to commercial weedkiller strength - This is theorectical rather than practical?
L
Did you get anything usable out of it?
Your picture shows 9v cells in parallel, I'd advise running these in series for higher current.
Some calculations tell me you need ~50Ah to produce 1 mol of dichlorine:
2 Cl- = 2 e- + Cl2
This will give you 1 mol of hypochlorite:
Cl2 + -OH = Cl- + ClOH (= ClO- + H+)
But there's another 4 electron oxidations to take Cl(I) to (V) in chlorate. So I end up with with 150 Ah to give you ~100g?
L