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Extra special fancy moisturizer for eczema

Step 3Oil blend

Oil blend
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Although most people measure with volume, it is a lot easier, faster and more precise to use a scale: you can just keep adding ingredients to the same container, zeroing out the scale between each measurement. The translation between weight and volume is approximate. I design my creams based on the weight of the ingredients and then I round that out to the closest practical volume measurement.

2 tsp dimethicone (10g)
5 tsp jojoba oil (20g)
4 1/2 tsp castor oil (20g)
4 tsp shea butter (25g)
1/4 cup ewax (25g)

Melt together in a small double boiler. When all ingredients are combined remove from heat and allow to cool for 3 minutes, then stir in:

2 1/2 tsp tamanu oil (10g)
2 tsp black seed oil (10g)
1 tsp pure vitamin E (5g)

Note on ingredients:

Dimethicone, a silicone oil, provides a breathable barrier which protects skin against moisture loss. Its effect is similar to lanolin, but with a reduced risk of allergies, and a better smell and "feel".

Jojoba oil is actually a wax which is liquid at room temperature, and it has a much longer shelf life than most oils. Other advantages are that it is well tolerated by most skin types and people, it helps protect the skin against UV rays. It does not completely dissolve in the skin and it creates a satiny barrier which helps prevent moisture loss.

Castor oil is very useful in moisturizers for several reasons: it penetrates deeply into the skin; its main component, ricinoleic acid, has anti inflammatory effects; it has a long shelf life and is used in the food industry as a mold inhibitor; it acts as a humectant, which means it attracts and retains moisture; it is also an emollient, which means it softens and make the skin feel smooth. On the minus side, it is a little more sticky and gooey than other oils.

Shea butter is pretty much "de rigueur" in any high end cosmetic, because it is reputed to be one of the best moisturizers and emollients, effective against scars, eczema, burns, rashes, wrinkles, stretch marks, blemishes and any other skin problem you can think of. It is also reputed to be an anti-inflammatory agent and to provide UV protection, although the level of protection can vary between zero and SPF 6. One thing is certain: it absorbs rapidly into the skin, does not feel greasy, and leaves the skin feeling supple and firm. You can use either refined (white and odorless) or unrefined (with nutty color and smell) shea butter. Supposedly unrefined has better therapeutic effects.

Ewax is a blend of cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60. The E stands for emulsifying, and it's purpose is to blend the oil and water into a smooth, stable cream (you might find it under the name "emulsifying wax NF" in online stores). It comes in white, waxy flakes which are easy to measure and melt. I like it better than the "all natural" alternative of beeswax and borax because the cream is less sticky and more stable (i.e. the water and oil in the cream are less likely to separate).

Tamanu oil is reputed to have healing, anti-inflammatory and antibiotic properties. The oil is especially recommended for all kinds of burns (sunburns or chemical burns), most dermatoses, post-surgical cicatrisation, certain skin allergies, acne, psoriasis, herpes, chillblains, skin cracks, diabetic sores, hemorroids, dry skin, etc. It smells somewhat like butter pecan ice cream. As the oil is absorbed into the skin the odor changes to a nutty, fatty aroma. Sometimes I'll just rub a little of this pure oil on bad patches of skin.

Black seed oil is my favorite of the lot. I do not believe in any magical panacea, but I could not help being charmed when I heard the Islamic prophet Muhammad said black seed oil will treat all diseases except death. To me this means: even though this will make you feel good, it won't save you from your destiny. Black seed, habbatul barakah, the seed of blessing, whatever name you choose: it will cure everything -- but ultimately it won't make a whit of difference. Face it, we're all going to die.
Optimists heed only Muhammad's comment on healing, not death. The list of ailments this oil is reputed to cure is eye popping: fatigue, flatulence, intestinal worms, pancreatic cancer, toothache, depression, acne, asthma, nasal congestion, infertility, and eczema to name just a few. It is supposed to stop hair loss and bloody noses. It allegedly helps eye sight and ear infections. It can be eaten, inhaled, applied topically -- or mixed with ashes and stuffed up your nostrils (which I've never tried and wouldn't recommend).
Modern medical research seems to confirm it may be helpful for some of the above conditions.  It is rich in unsaturated fatty acids such as Omega 6, but also contains many other compounds including vitamins, minerals, amino acids, carotene, arginine and a whole slew of others which seem to work in synergy.
I have not tested it for all these ailments (thank goodness!), but even if I had I would not recommend medication. That is your doctor's job. I love mixing a teaspoon with plain yogurt and maple syrup because it tastes delicious, and I love putting it on my skin: I just use one or two drops on my face and nothing feels better. It has a woody, slightly spicy smell which I find very pleasant.

Vitamin E (aka tocopheryl acetate) is also sold in drug stores, but usually it is not pure. They mix it with water or glycerin and other stuff... you can buy it pure wherever you order these other specialty ingredients. I like adding it to any cream I make because it is a very strong anti-oxidant. This means it will help prevent your oil from going rancid, but it will also help protect your skin against UV damage, bring nourishment to the cells, assists in the healing of damaged tissue and prevents scarring. However, it also prevents blood from clotting so it should never be applied to a bleeding wound.

Please note that everything I wrote here about the ingredients is a summary of their reputation. I am not, nor would I make any claims that these ingredients actually cure any of the ailments they are supposed to help (remember, we're all going to die anyway...). Check out step 5 for info on where to find these ingredients.

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7 comments
Jul 26, 2011. 4:27 PMnelsonk says:
Shea butter is pretty much "de rigueur" in any high end cosmetic, because it is reputed to be one of the best moisturizers and emollients, effective against scars, eczema, burns, rashes, wrinkles, stretch marks, blemishes and any other skin problem you can think of. It is also reputed to be an anti-inflammatory agent and to provide UV protection, although the level of protection can vary between zero and SPF 6. One thing is certain: it absorbs rapidly into the skin, does not feel greasy, and leaves the skin feeling supple and firm. You can use either refined (white and odorless) or unrefined (with nutty color and smell) shea butter. Supposedly unrefined has better therapeutic effects.***
so i looked up natural ways to get rid of stretch marks and your mixture came up, i just want to get rid of my stretch marks on my stomack from when i was bigger how do i do this just with shea butter??? and where can i get natural oils by the way ?? like tea tree or almond oil, im not rich and would like to stay in budget thanks :)!
Jul 6, 2010. 1:09 PMcharleymarie1 says:
Hi there, thanks for this Instructable. Can hyaluronic acid be added to this or perhaps substituted for another ingredient? Thanks. Charlotte
May 17, 2010. 9:02 AMZorra31 says:
Dimethicone is a bioaccumulative environmental toxin and common side effects of topical application include redness, itching, burning, irritation and stinging.  Many people will not experience any side effects, however someone prone to atopical dermatitis or other forms of eczema has an increased chance of experiencing these side effects. 

In my opinion, using dimethicone on someone (especially a child) who has eczema is ridiculous.  My daughter has atopic dermatitis and after years of numerous different prescription creams and lotions and remedies suggested by doctors and pediatricians, we tried using something that has been used for centuries to treat nearly all varieties of skin rashes and irritation: neem oil.  We use it straight from the bottle and it works wonderfully.  Her patches of eczema diminished overnight after the first treatment and after 10 days it had cleared up completely. 

We apply the neem oil once weekly now to keep her eczema in check (whereas with the prescription creams, many were barely effective at all, and the ones that were required a lot of product -- twice daily applications, only diminished the eczema, never completely cleared it up, and if we skipped a day of applying the cream her rash would flare back up again immediately).  We are very pleased with the neem oil.  It's easy, soothing, super effective and cheap -- a small bottle for $8.99 has lasted about 8 months now (whereas before we were going through one tube a month of prescription cream at $14-$35 apiece).  I highly recommend any parent of a child with eczema give pure neem oil a try!
May 17, 2010. 12:26 PMZorra31 says:
Yes, the smell of the neem oil does take some getting used to -- my daughter & I both think it smells like curry which we both love so we're fine with it, but my mom also can't stand the smell of it, lol. 

I will keep an eye out for Tamanu - we might give that a try, too! 

Anyway, just wanted to throw my two cents in in case other readers looking for eczema solutions come across your article and it doesn't work for them due to the dimethicone, another avenue for them to try.  Thanks!  :)

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