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Extreme Surface Mount Soldering

Step 6Testing

Testing
Now comes the exciting part! Before we try out a hot plate, let's make sure our Hot Plate Control System works by experimenting with a lamp. An ordinary table lamp will do.

Remember: Incandescent lights and heating appliances only! No fluorescents, high intensity lights, or motors!

Hook ground from the Pulse Width Regulation Unit to R5 which goes to pin 2 of the MOC3042 on the AC Control Unit. Hook the signal line from PB4 of the ATtiny2313 to Pin 1 of the MOC3042. The MOC3042 is an optoisolator and isolates the AC lines from the 5V Pulse Control Unit. Be sure you have a 470 Ohm Resistor (R5) on pin 2 of the MOC3042. Plug in both units, plug in your table lamp (be sure the lamp switch is on), and turn on the 5V power.

Refer to Picture 6 and the discussion in Step 3 to help you set the values of 100 for Cycle Length and 10 for On Time on the DIP switches and press the button. If all goes well, your table lamp should be blinking cheerfully for one second every 10 seconds. Works OK? Pat yourself on the back. Good job!! Play with the settings some - blinking a table lamp was never such fun!

Now it's time to try your hot plate. Turn everything off and unplug the table lamp. Plug in the hot plate, turn its control to about the middle of its range, and turn on the 5V again. Try a very conservative setting of 100 and 1, that is a ten second Cycle Length with 1/10th second On Time. In about 5 to 10 minutes, your hot plate should get barely warm to the touch. I can hold my hand on my hot plate indefinitely with this setting. Now try increasing the On Time to 2. The plate should get noticeably warmer over the next few minutes. Go ahead and experiment a little, but we'll come back to how to calibrate the hot plate for soldering soon.
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