Step 3: Attaching The New Hinge

Once the hinge is trimmed, test-fit and cleaned, you can begin to glue the parts together. Even though the glue says it will hold to non-porous surfaces (like plastics) I still like to scuff the area to be glued and I did that on these glasses frames.

As a welder, I am fond of the following method for attaching two parts together: 1) Hold the parts together with pliers, 2) "tack" in one or two spots and continue to hold the parts until the "tacks" dry (15 seconds for super-glue), 3) remove pliers and glue the parts together entirely. The original (non-gel) super glue tends to wick nicely into the tiny gaps between the parts to be glued and I also made use of the holes that were already in the hinges as another glue location.

I glued the hinge to the lens side of the frame first as I knew the earpiece would be easier to adjust for the final alignment of the two parts. I noticed that for some reason if I lined up the earpiece to be level and symmetrical with it's counterpart while the glasses were open, it was slightly "off" when closed. I decided to leave it that way because the fit and comfort during use was more important than having them line up when closed.

After the hinge was fully glued and the glasses were one again, I set them aside so the glue could completely dry. I ended up leaving them for about 45 minutes before putting them in use.
<p>Love this instructable!... my only issue is, i have nothing to grip... the loops on the damaged hinge are completely broken off... So now i just have this flat metal surface... i can heat it the way you did, or a soldering gun, but how do i grip the hinge and pull it out of the plastic of the frame? :(</p>
<p>must use a solder tip for that case.... hit it directly on any metal you see, when it heats up take a safety pin or needle dig under the wet (melted) plastic and wala problem solved.....</p><p>items needed</p><p>1 solder tool</p><p>1 needle or pointed object</p><p>SPEED lol</p>
<p>Thank you! This is a great idea.</p>
<p>As a fellow four-eye I've bodged a couple of fixes in time.</p><p>Firstly, protect the lens at all costs. If you scratch the lens, or glue gets on the lens it might be knackered.</p><p>You can also colour in the hinge to make it less visible. Black enamel hobby paint is ideal.</p><p>Weight is also awkward in that just a few grammes difference can be felt by the wearer. On one fix I added some extra mass to the other side, just to balance things.</p><p>I've used wire to make a side-piece when one broke off. To protect the ear I covered it in heat-shrink. That pair is still in the car as my last-resort spares.</p>
Great instructable. Very easy to follow. Now to get my husband to do the same for me ...
The instruction is very useful! <br> <br>But actually, the writer could find more beautiful replacement hinges here: <br> <br>http://www.tailiglassesparts.com/assorted_eyeglass_hinges.html; <br> <br>They supply nice riveting hinges for eyeglasses for repairing and designing.
with these hinges, the instruction becomes perfect.
All I thought about while reading this is how much it must have sucked to do without glasses on.
Nice Instructable. I did my repair before coming to Instructables, and the only variation in my method was cannibalizing a stronger hinge set from some cheaper glasses, and I used a glue alongside superglue called E-6000. Its amazing. Oh and another note to anyone thinking of attempting this: When superglue dries, it leaves white residue on the surrounding area. If your lenses are plastic, this will not come off. Keep superglue away from your lenses. Its safe to apply it to the arm side of the hinge though. <br>@askjerry <br>you're right about the hinges on cheaper glasses being of higher quality. I noticed this when i was searching for a replacement hinge.
we provides Fast and high quality <a href="http://www.trendtogo.com/blog/eyewear-prescriptions-repairs/eyewear-repair/" rel="nofollow">eyewear repair</a> service and repair Glasses, sunglasses, all types of frame and lenses.
Good work! <br><br>The only change I would suggest to anyone else attempting this is to use a cheap pair of pliers because heating the jaws in a flame could ruin the heat treating of the steel, softening the jaws and causing them to quickly wear out.
Does this type of hinge snag or pull her hair?<br><br>Did you heat the part of the hinge you were tying to mold to the shape of the rim frame?<br><br>Have you tried to heat one of the brads, and then push it through the ear.temple?<br><br>I enjoyed your creative thinking very much. Another possibility for hinges would be radio control aircraft aileron hinges from a hobby store. Easy to mold those with a dab of transferred heat. And superglue would hold the 2 materials together very very well, and permanently, since it wicks well and it welds as opposed to glues.<br><br>I liked your heating the pliers tips and not heating the plastic directly.<br>Your welding skills showed you learned THAT lesson early. GOOD JOB!
Thank you. I'm going to favorite this one. I wish I'd known about this a year ago when my toddler ripped my glasses apart.<br><br>Some alternatives to the hinges you bought would be tiny ones found in the dollhouse section of hobby stores (something like this http://www.atcoproducts.com/17dolhoushin.html). They'd be a little less bulky than the one you used. Brass piano hinge used in RC airplanes could be cut down to size as well, if you had a use for all the rest of the length. (I think it's sold by the foot.)
Nice fix! I live in a space filled with broken frame glasses that I'm too cheap to toss. <br> Some are held together with heat shrink tubeing and other less salubrious items. <br>Pre-heat the pliers before grasping the metal parts. This will allow for faster heat conduction and dexterity since you will not have to hold an awkward plastic object near the flame for about a minute. An alcohol lamp on your work space may be better than a bic for ease of heating small objects. Bics get HOT in a minute. <br>Prepare the attatchment sites for the new hinge to obtain the best fit and possibly heat the hinge enough to allow the hinge to be touched to the frame while hot (and then quickly removed) to locate and index and new screw hole locations.
Great idea - especially about how to remove the original hardware. <br><br>I used to teach school and had quite a few times the kids would come to me because the screw to the hinge had come unscrewed and was lost. I put a large paperclip through the place the screw should be, cut off both ends (all good teachers have toolkits in their desk right?), and used needle nose pliers to bend the ends of the paperclip tight against the hinge where they could not &quot;catch&quot; themselves on it. It is a permanent fix and eliminates those pesky screws from ever being lost again. <br><br>Forget needing to carry an eyeglass repair kit and forget paying the eyeglass store to fix them for you.
Thank you. All good <em>instructable users</em> should keep tool kits nearby, too.
Glasses are such a pain... the ones that have great hinges are plastic, and that breaks and the lens falls out. THe ones that have good frames have weak hinges. I really wish they could get it right!<br><br>Nice repair... good in a pinch too!<br><br>Jerry
Thanks. I'm lucky to not have needed glasses myself so far but I had to come up with something to help the wife!
<a>Armin van Buuren</a> ASOT

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Bio: In Brazil, they say "dar um jeitinho" which means to jerry-rig or otherwise figure out a solution to an everyday problem. That's what I ... More »
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