Introduction: F2 Conditional Diaper Purse
Purpose: Create a multi-functional bag that creates space-holders for specific baby or child items. Generate an interactive reminder for items that need restocking or essential items you can't leave home without.
Design Intention:
- Be the coolest mom on the block with a custom-designed, cool-looking diaper bag with interactive components.
- Item-specific input pockets: bottle or sippy cup, iPad/changing pad, bibs or binkies, phone or forks, diapers & wipes
- Generate item input responses with fabric switches and LEDs as a second function of the bag itself. LEDs will be On when items are missing and Off when they're not.
Step 1: Cutting the Pattern
- Back x 1
- Sides x 2
- Side Pockets
- Front x 1
- Front zipper pocket (optional) x 1
- Bottom x 1
- Strap Fabric x 2
- Strap Webbing x 2
- Back x 1
- Back Pocket x 1
- Sides x 2
- Side pockets x 2
- Front x 1
- Bottom x 1
- Front x 1
- Back x 1
- Sides x 2
- Zipper pocket x1
- Front x 1
- Back x 1
- Sides x 2
- Bottom x 1
Attachments
Step 2: Prep Work
After you get the pieces cut, you may want to do the tedious prep work so that your final assembly process goes smoother. This means sewing applicable hems on the pockets for the elastic insertion and the top hems for the outside pieces. The extra 1" on the top of the outside will be folded down to hide wiring and therefore, to create a finished look, you'll want to have a hem on the bottom. You can also attach the zipper to the front pocket and have that ready to attach as well. You could also do the top zipper if you're creating a zippered top as well.
Step 3: The Straps
After you have cut the fabric for the two straps, you can fold the material in half, inside out, and sew a 1/2" seam using a straight stitch. You will end up with a bit of a fabric tube that you can turn so the right side is facing. Shift the tube just slightly so the seam is on the bottom and slide the webbing into the fabric tube. You do not have to make straps out of the fabric if you want to just use webbing or some other kind of strap. Each 24" strap will give you 1" on each end to sew into the top and bottom of the bag. You can measure how long you'd like your straps to be (I choose 22"). You can cut the additional straps down just slightly if necessary. You could also make adjustable straps but that takes some additional steps not covered here.
Step 4: Preparing the Sides for the Pockets and Switches
The pocket sides of the bag can be sewn together at the bottom to get the process going but you'll want to wait before fully attaching the pockets to sew in the conductive snap/switches. For the four sides (interior and exterior) you can just create 1/2" overlaps about 2" from the outside on the bottom portion to account for the extra inch of the pockets. You can run a quick stitch to hold it together. The reason for doing this is just to give the pocket a little extra room for bottles or other objects. The elastic towards the top is cut just short of 7" to give the top some closure. This is nice to have to keep items more secure. You can prepare all five pockets at this time.
Step 5: Preparing the Switches
- Attach the bottom of the snap to a side about 2" down from the top of the pocket using conductive thread. Have the thread come through the backside and cut it off about 6" for wiring.
- Attach the top of the snap about 1/2" from the end of the strap using the conductive thread. Once you have done this, place the snap together and extend the remaining strap facing towards the top of side.
- Now, you'll make two stitches, one just above (2 cm) the top snap and another at the end of the webbing to secure it to the side. Be careful of the snap while sewing! (You could do it by hand, too.)
Step 6: Adding Wiring to the Switches
The next step involves wiring the switches. I used 24 gauge wire to make stronger connections to the Lilypad. I first stripped a small end of the wire and wrapped it with a small plier to create a loop. I soldered the loop together so it wouldn't slip. Now, using the 6" remainder of the thread, you can sew the wire directly to the sides, making sure you have a tight connection on the loop. In addition, I color-coded the wire so I could keep track; I chose green for ground and red for positive. Again, you can repeat this process four additional times so you end up with five sides with pockets, switches and wires!
Step 7: Attaching the Zipper Pocket to the Front
The most important part of this step is to give yourself enough room above the zipper pocket to line the LEDs. I initially had the pocket 6" above the bottom but it was just a tad too much so I moved the pocket down an inch. The zipper pocket is completely optional. You will measure the distance from the top you want the pocket and create a 1" hem. Then, sew this hem upside down on the front of the bag so that when you fold it back over, it will be on the front. You can secure the sides and bottom if you wish. This might be helpful since it's so hard to sew the sides with such thick fabric.
Step 8: Adding the Eyelets for the LEDs
Once you have the front piece with the zipper pocket attached, you can measure for the LED eyelets. From either side, measure about 4" in mark the spot with a chalk pencil. I spaced the LEDs 3/4" apart and lined them vertically but you could go across the bag as well. Once you've marked the eyelet spots, gently create a very small tear in the fabric with a seam ripper. Then, using your thread, you can sew around in a circle to create the eyelet. I'm using the Lilypad LEDs, which are small but powerful. My eyelets are pretty small. However, you can also place less expensive LEDs right through the eyelet if you're not using Lilypad LEDs. Repeat the eyelet process another four times.
Step 9: Open Up the Backside for the LED Wiring
Once you've got your eyelets sewn, you can place the liner side of the bag against the outside and with a small pen, mark where the eyelets are on the heavy interfacing. Once you've got the locations marked, you'll be able to see where they'll sit on the opposite side of the bag. You can create a small window for the LED wiring and even cut the liner fabric to fold to limit fraying. I sewed this liner directly to the interfacing to create the window.
Step 10: Wire the Lilypad and Power Supply
At this time, you can do some preliminary wiring, with your Lilypad. Again, I used wire for the LEDs to create better connections. I soldered all LEDs and attached them to the Lilypad and then attached the Power supply to the Lilypad as well. Next, I soldered two additional ground wires to the power supply for the switches and LEDs and sewed these in a line using conductive thread. While this is also very time consuming, I found that the flexibility of the bag would cause the conductive thread to lose connection, hence, the wiring. Once you've got the wiring almost complete, you can think about adding a flap to the cover the wiring components. This is also optional. I secured the Lilypad and Power supply to the interior of the bag using a small, velcro circle.
Step 11: Sewing the Sides Together and Attaching the Bottom
Now, you should have four bag sides, three with liners and pockets, two with outside fabric and pockets, 1 regular outside back and the zipper pocket with eyelet front. You might also want to attach pieces of felt to the sides that will be touching one another with wiring. While attaching inside to outside, to cut down on time, you can use 1" bias tape to run alongside the sides and bottom, connecting the inside to the outside. The biggest problem in this step is having the right machine. Since there are so many layers of thick interfacing, having an industrial or heavy duty sewing machine is a must. Using the Bias tape while sewing the sides together eliminates the extra step of attaching it but can also be tricky since it slips easy. Attach all sides together with the liner facing out. (You should have two pocket sides (inside/outside) back to back. You can also attach the bottom to the bag at this point.
Step 12: Finishing the Wiring
Now that you pretty much have your bag together, you can finish up the wiring. Just measure the approximate length you'll need and create the connections to the Lilypad and ground wires much like you did with the LEDs. Once you've got everything wired up, you can turn the bag right side out.
Step 13: Attaching the Straps, Hiding the Wires With the Hem
You're almost there! The final step is to add the straps to the hem and then fold it over so that the wires can be tucked underneath. The tricky part of this step is making sure you don't sew the wires too much so you want to keep them well tucked into the fold. (I actually did't hem the front with the sewing machine because of the wiring. A hand stitch would be best here. I think I'll move the hem down an inch to really help bring the wires down and then it won't be as much of an issue. This you'll have to play with. You can attach the straps at the same time by folding it at the bottom 1" and placing it underneath the hem. There may be better locations for the straps, honestly. I might choose external straps next time or maybe do one across the length of the bag. Unless you're creating a zipper top or adding a magnet closing snap, you're done!