Introduction: FJR1300 Integrated Genie GM3T-BX Garage Door Opener
In this instructable I'm going to show you how to put this garage door opener into the fairing deck of your fjr where the heated control nob would go. I chose this panel because it's sacrificial. But if you want to put it somewhere else, this should get you on the right track.
NOTE: There are other methods to hook this into your hazards or horn. When doing so you can either remove these from the normal system and use them as a straight switch, thus losing that feature. Or you can use a logic level step down from 12V to 3.3v. I chose to go another route as I didn't want to lose either of these features, and didn't want to honk early morning and annoy my neighbors. I also didn't want to bother with the complexity of the logic level step down. However using 12v would have allowed me to more easily power the LED.
For this instructable I used this genie remote:
And this waterproof button from sparkfun:
Choose a different button, led color, or remote but YMMV.
For this instructable you're going to have to know how to
solder. If you do and you have an iron you'll know how to do the rest. Other tools and components you'll need are:
- Soldering Iron
- Wire Cutters / strippers
- Duct Tape
- Electrical or skotch tape
Step 1: Get the Board Out of the Controller.
Before you do this step you should program button 1 of the remote and make sure it works.
Anyway, this is pretty easy. Just take the battery compartment off the back, pry off the other back part and pull out the circuit board.
Step 2: Understand the Board
The top of the board has the battery on it. On the bottom are 3 sets of 3 contacts. They are in pairs. The buttons on the controller close the circuits by coming down on them. What we are going to do is to put wires on these pads and let the switch close the contacts instead. You can see how this works by laying a screwdriver blade across one of these circles. Your garage door should operate when you do it.
Step 3: Wire Up the Contacts
Now we need to wire up to both sides of the button contact that we want to hook to our button. In this example I'm using button 1, but other 2 are just as likely. We want to lay a solder bead across the U and the trident seperately. To make things easier I did the u on the middle pad and the trident on the right pad. you can see this in the next step.
Step 4: Tape Up to Relieve Stress on Solder Joints
After you've done your solders, you should put the battery back in and touch the 2 wires together. If your door doesn't open (And the leds don't blink), then you've shorted the circuit. Same if you add the battery and it just starts blinking. If you're like me you've got a microscope that you can look at the joints with, but a smartphone camera will help too. If you do your soldering quickly it should just wick across the copper pads and make things easy.
After you've soldered these contacts you should wrap the wires behind the board and then wrap with non-conductive tape. This will cause any stress on the wires to pull against the board and not directly on the solder joints.
Step 5: Remove Left Fairing Part and Drill a Hole
After removing the fairing, I used increasing sizes of wood drills to go through the sacrificial panel. I only had up to 1/2" so I ended up routering out the hole till I could squeeze the button through.
Once all of this is done, clean the fairing throughly. It's likely quite dusty and now covered in plastic powder.
Make sure you put the gasket on the outside and tighten the nut through up to the inside of the fairing.
Step 6: Wire It Up, Tape It In!
Once the button is in place, lay the circuit board up against the side of the fairing like in pic 3, and then trim up the wires so they'll fit but not be in the way.
Now looking at these other pictures set up your wires through CO1 and NO1 and solder in place. Finally secure the circuit board with some good duct tape or some other method. You're not free to replace the module back in the bike.
Voila, we're done!