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Step 2The Schematic...
I connected the Positive end to one line of the female phone jack and the negative to the other. You could wire it directly to your light but I chose to do it this way so I could test other sources with just a phone jack interface cable. The Red and Green go to corresponding colors on the phone line that plugs into the wall.
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Here goes: right now, your 317 is getting hit by rather large 120 hertz pulses, 40,50 volts or more. It will die eventually, but what doesn't? Put a resistor in series with the input of the 317 to drop some of the excess voltage into waste heat. Ideally, you compute the value of the resistor based on the total load (317 running=2mA, LEDs, in SERIES, 10mA)=12mA. You want the output voltage to be say, 5 white LEDs with each "dropping" 3 volts = 15 volts DC. The 317 wants an overhead of 3 volts, so the ideal input voltage is 15V + 3V=18V. So you need to drop the "raw" pulsating voltage down to 18V. Lets say it is 45V, then 45-18=27V that has to be dropped, at 12mA. Ohms law R=E/I = 27/.012 = about 2200 ohms. Power dissipation being what we do with it, we must know what power rating the resistor should have P=E*I = 27 * .012 = 0.324. Go with a 1 watt to be safe. Between the resistor and the 317 input, connect an electrolitic capacitor 22uF/150v capacitor (positive to the input!)so that the dropped voltage is somewhat consistant. Keep in mind that the 100V ringing pulses might evntually blow the capacitor, but that's fun too. Just don't be looking straight down at it when it happens.
Of course, with enough LED's, you wouldn't need ANY other parts but!
Now, your circuit should last long enough for the FCC to drop by your place. They do not need a contract with you to fine you or drag you to court. Good luck.