The hooks and loops for connecting to the circuit, as shown in this Instructable, could be replaced by other conductive fasteners such as metal snaps, conductive Velcro, crocodile clips or even sewing a permanent connection with conductive thread.
I am also selling these handmade neoprene Battery Pouches via Etsy. Although it is much cheaper to make your own, purchasing one will help me support my prototyping and development costs >>
Step 1: Materials and Tools
- Stretch conductive fabric from www.lessemf.com
(also see http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/resource/stretch_conductive_fabric
- Conductive thread from www.sparkfun.com
also see http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/resource/conductive_thread
- Fusible interfacing from local fabric store or
(also see www.shoppellon.com)
- 1.5 mm thick neoprene from www.sedochemicals.com
- Regular thread
- Set of 2 metal hooks and loops
- Pen and paper
- T-shirt transfer and permanent marker
- Sewing needle
Step 2: Cutting and Fusing
Download JPG from >>
I chose to use neoprene because it was hard to make a sturdy pouch from jersey fabric, because it tends to stretch out and needs to be sewn quite tight to keep the conductive contacts in good contact with the battery. I also tried non-stretch cotton fabric and it worked well, but frayed a great deal. Neoprene is cool to work with for many reasons and also looks good in photographs.
Cut out pieces of stretch conductive fabric and fusible to match the pieces shown in the stencil. To make it easier for yourself you can first fuse a patch of fusible interfacing to a piece of stretch conductive fabric and then trace the pieces and cut them out.
With an iron set to medium-high heat (test on a scrap piece to get the temperature right) iron-on the pieces of conductive fabric to the neoprene. The conductive fabric will change colour under the heat, and to a certain degree this is okay, but if it gets too hot it will scorch and get brittle and is no longer stretchy.
Step 3: Sewing Loops
Thread some conductive thread and take it double if you like. Sew on the loops to the patches of conductive fabric (illustration stencil cf2, cf3). Make sure you get about 3-5 stitches per hole of each loop. And make sure you don't just go though the conductive fabric patch but also through the neoprene, since this will be where all the weight of the batteries pulls at and it should be a very sturdy connection.
Step 4: Sewing Pouch
Next sew together seams 2 and 3.
And finally sew seams 4 and 5, and 6 and 7.
(Seams 5 and 7 are only indicated once because they are a corner that should be sewn together to itself)
For a nice look along these final seams, don't go all the way through the neoprene but only perforate the outer layer of jersey and the neoprene of each side and stitch these together.
Step 5: Velcro
Step 6: Plus Minus
It is useful to permanently mark your plus and minus poles, so that you can work with them when you make your projects. But up until the point you mark them it really does not matter which is which.
With the t-shirt transfer you don't even need to use the printer, just draw straight on it (preferably with a permanent marker) and then place it upside down and iron it on and peel away the backing. But better read though the instructions on your t-shirt transfer first, they might be different from mine.
Step 7: In Action
So if you don't have a multimeter handy, then you can still test it with the battery, but be prepared to take it out again fast.
And, if everything seems to be working then& then you need a circuit to hook it up to& ?
For purposes of testing the hook and loop connection I made a little sample.