Real Polaroid transfers provide a very unique effect, most notably around the edges of the photo. As Polaroid film stock either disappears or stops being produced entirely methods like this will be the only way to duplicate the effect.
I was recently working on a shoot where the editing was leading me down a path that made the photo look a little "grungy" and I thought a polaroid border would suit it well. I knew at one time there was some nice soul who had posted up a psd template that was an actual scan of a blank polaroid transfer so I started looking. After 2hrs and many stock photo sites that were selling exactly what I was looking for I decided what kind of photographer/graphic designer/photoshop fiend would I be if I simply purchased this file. Luckily I stumbed across a post that mentioned using ink and some watercolour paper, that's all I needed to read and I was off to find the box with my drawing stuff.
This process is quite simple, there are probably a multitude of ways to do this and I encourage you to tailor this process to your own style.
- 1 or more sheets of watercolour paper - others may work but watercolour paper has a nice texture
- Ink of some sort. I used fountain pen ink but you could probably use all sorts of other stuff like food colouring or maybe even fabric dye just make sure it is dark. Get creative. It doesn't have to be black, we can fix that in photoshop.
- 1 or more popsicle sticks - again other stuff could work, just get someting with a flat edge that you can use to transfer the ink.
- Scanner - If you don't have one see if you can scan documents to file using the copier at work. If all else fails I don't think Office Depot or Staples charge that much for this service.
- Image editing software that supports layers. Photoshop is preferred but GIMP (which is free) will work too. This tutorial however will be citing photoshop tools/commands only.
Step 1: Prepare Your Work Surface
Step 2: Prepare Your Palette
Step 3: Wet Your "brush"
Place the ink onto your watercolour paper and gently rub it lengthwise back and forth while slowly pulling it towards you then slowly pushing it away from you. The idea is that as there is less ink it will start to leave voids and you'll get that "rough" look.
Step 4: Lather Rinse Repeat ;)
Step 5: Post Processing : Scanning the Border
Step 6: Post Processing : Straighten
Step 7: Post Processing : Cleaning Up the Edges
Step 8: Post Processing : Crop
How much you crop is up to you, maybe you only want the inner border left or maybe not. Its up to you.
Step 9: Post Processing : Creating the Layers (A)
Step 10: Post Processing : Creating the Layers (B)
Step 11: Post Processing : Creating the Layers (C)
With the "white" layer still selected press Ctr-A to selecte the entire canvas, then under the edit menu at the top of the screen choose Transform>Rotate 180�
Step 12: Post Processing : Creating the Layers (D)
At this point the border is pretty much finished, if you want you can erase away different sections of the layers to "tweak" it a little more and you can play with opacity. When I do this I like to have an actual image under the frame so I can see what to tweak. Once the adjustments are done save this as a PSD file so that you can always change the different layers if you want to.
Step 13: Using the Border : Open the File
Step 14: Using the Border : Matching Size
Open your Polaroid transfer border and select Image Size front he Image menu at the top of the screen. Determining the right size is tricky and may take a few attempts, start with your the dimensions from step 1 then add an extra 10% to the width and about 6% to the height. Make sure you uncheck "Constrain Proportions" box. Paste your camera image into the border and make sure the border overlaps it but that the image doesn't extend past the border. If it doesn't just "undo" back to the re size and try again. For me a good number worked out to be roughly 4120x2860 which is where I got the 10% and 6% from. Once you have it right, delete the image layer leaving only the borders and the background, change the background colour back to white, and save it as a psd file.
Step 15: Using the Border : Adding Your Photo In-between
Once you have it lined up right choose the SAVE AS command to save so that you don't overwrite your template file.
Step 16: Troubleshooting
1) Your black border is too transparent even though the opacity is set to 100. If this happened its because your ink wasn't dark enough, to fix this select the black border layer and press Ctr-L to bring up the levels tool. Adjust the black slider to bring it up to a true black.
2) Your photo extends past your border but only in a few spots. Easy, just erase it away.
** The example at the top follows all the steps to the end with the added step of using additional layer containing stained parchment. This is a texture layer that was blended using multiply, opacity set to 50, and masked off to avoid contaminating the model's skin.
Step 17: Download the Border Featured in This Instructable
It is a 5MB PSD file compressed in RAR format.