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In this tutorial, I will show you how to create a helmet based on the Brotherhood of Steel from Fallout 3. The finished helmet is comprised of a mai...
Tools and Materials Pen & Paper Ruler Pepakura Designer OPTIONAL Fallout 3 (PC) w/ G.E.C.K. NifSkope 3D software package o...
NOTE- you can skip this step if you do not have 3D experience or do not wish to modify the design. The Pepakura file that I've built is available her...
NOTE- you can skip this step if you do not have 3D experience or do not wish to modify the design. The Pepakura file that I've built is available her...
NOTE- the Pepakura file that I've built is available here (simply remove the "dot" from the address): http://www.4shared.dot.com/file/PGIzojP_/BoS_H...
Tools and Materials Xacto knife and cutting surface hobby saw spare card stock foam core .125 round styrene tubing .125 half...
While the Pepakura method of sculpting can be very exact it can also result in models that appear too "low poly". I've found that applying layers of...
Now that the helmet has been skinned with cheese cloth, it's time to begin refining and smoothing the surface. For this we will use the DAP DryDex sp...
At this point we're going to add some accents to the brows and center ridge. I used red electrical wire (as pictured) for my helmet but the better o...
We now begin the Base model that will serve as the foundation for the mouth respirator and ear knobs. Cut a circle of foam core with a 3 inch diamet...
We're going to take a bit of a break from the modeling to touch on some simple mold making. We need to make some copies of the Base to which we will...
Once the mold has fully cured, you can begin the process of demolding your part (separating the mold from the original piece) and preparing for casti...
The next part that we need to mold and cast are the ear pieces. You can see in the highlighted area of the photo how the cast of the ear piece fits ...
This step covers the building of the respirator on the "mouth" of the mask. This part was challenging and I went through two iterations before I got...
The modeling phase of the helmet is close to finished (treat yourself to something nice if you made it this far). There are only a few more details ...
The mold we make will require that the helmet be completely sealed on all sides and that it features a pouring hole for the resin. Until now, the bot...
It helps to prime the surface of your model before you make a mold of it. Scratch built models (and especially kit bashed models) are often made fro...
Tools and Materials Klean Klay Rebound 12 silicone chip brushes measured mixing cups paint stirrers parting wax polyviny...
We begin this stage by mixing our first batch of Rebound 25 silicone, which I recommend because it is formulated to adhere to large vertical surfaces...
Now that you've finished the silicone mold of the front, you'll need to make what is called a jacket mold (or mother mold). The jacket mold provides...
It's time to make a silicone mold of the back now. Remove the clay walls to expose the silicone on the front of the helmet so you see the seam. Bu...
The rear jacket mold will be a little easier than the front since it can all be built as a single piece. There are no undercut shapes for the rigid ...
The bottom of the helmet is the last area we will need to mold. Again, the process will be almost identical. Turn the helmet over so the bottom is ...
This process should be getting easier for you now. Like the rear jacket, the bottom jacket mold will be built as a single piece. There are no underc...
Now that all of your silicone and jacket molds are done, now comes the process of demolding your model. After all, you can't pull a cast if your mode...
Tools and Materials utility knife measured mixing cups Smooth Cast 65D resin Ease Release spray silicone plug for pour spout ...
Now that the molds have been assembled it is time to begin the casting process. You want the helmet to be hollow so you can get it on your head so w...
Now it's time to begin building all of the accessories that attach to the helmet. In all there are about 20 different attachments of varying levels ...
This is the hatch that is designed to fit over the hoses that connect to the rear of the helmet. It was built from simple foam core and sheets of sty...
The infrared scope is attached to a crossbar that connects the brow of the helmet to the right ear. The scope will be lit up in its final form alt...
The head lamp is one of the more complex and work intensive scratch-built accessories. The Pepakura file is available here (simply remove the "dot" ...
The Ear Knob accessory is a relatively easy part to make. I started by mounting a simple, large, rounded, metal button from a fabric store to a 1 inc...
The Air Nozzle was another quick fix, much like Ear Knobs. The elbow shape was made from an old "Right Angle A/V Elbow Adapter". The rest of it was ...
The Handles that attach to the sides of the face are very easy. You can go to any DIY store and find a metal drawer handle in the shape that you li...
The Radar accessory is also extremely easy. You can start by cutting a 1/8 inch sheet of styrene into an oblong pear-shape and then drill a 1/4 inch...
The Moisture Removal Nozzle is a bit trickier because it needs to conform to the surface of the helmet. We'll use Silicone Putty to make mold of the...
The Comm Port part was built rather quickly after I came across an interesting cable for a car battery, which you can find in any Auto Zone or Advance...
The Cross Bar connects from the right ear to the brow of the helmet. The Cross Bar supports the infra red scope and is held in place by the right E...
The Nose Vent is a very easy part. You don't even have to make it. They can be purchased online and set into the cavities on the front of the mask.
The Rear Hose Housing is a simple plumbing pipe with two screw-on caps. There's really nothing to build for this piece. You can find such pipes at m...
There are 3 types of hoses and tubes used on helmet. The yellow latex hose that attaches to the Moisture Removal Nozzles and the black tube that c...
The painting and weathering of a model is almost always my favorite. I've made 3 fully finished helmets by now and these are the techniques that h...
The cast of your helmet will need to be primed with a paint that will best adhere to the resin before you can begin you base coats. Plastikote paint...
Now that you've got your basic shading down you can begin to wash some dark paint in the recesses and highlight the edges. Load a broad brush with ...
This first stage of weathering will entail breaking up some the flatness in the base coat and adding some irregularity. I used an Aztek airbrush for...
This step involves refining the weathering and targeting certain areas around the helmet. We'll be applying the last of our acrylics with a small sp...
This is something of a repetition of Chapter 6- Painting 2: Washes and Highlights, however we will only concern ourselves with restoring some of the ...
Luckily, the small scale of the accessories makes them easy to paint together which will keep things consistent. The process will be a little simple...
....now comes the part where you get to see all of your hard work and patience pay off as you put it all together. Tools and Materials Dremel w...
Before we attach the hoses, it would be helpful to make room for some additional support. Drill 2 small holes, one above the other, separated by an ...
Drill a hole into the left side of the face as indicated on the diagram. This will serve as an attachment point for the Comm Port accessory. Epox...
The Moisture Removal Nozzle can be attached to the spot that you molded with the epoxy putty. Secure it with super glue or 5 minute epoxy. Drill ...
This part is easy. Simply drill a hole into the spot as indicated on the diagram and glue the Air Nozzle into the hole.
Another easy one. Drill a hole in the Left Ear knob, apply some super glue,. and then slot in the Ear Knob. Done.
This step is a bit trickier because it entails securing one accessory (the Crossbar) with two others (the Right Ear Knob and the Radar). Position th...
The attachment and assembly of the Lamp and Infrared Scope is probably the most challenging of the Assembly process but the most rewarding once you s...
We come now to the end of the assembly and one of the trickiest parts (if only because it seems like it should be so easy); the Visor. Begin by posi...
Now that you've assembled your helmet, it might be a good idea to add one last little accent that really ties it all together and what else better th...
You've just finished a big job and put in a lot of effort. Don't settle for a cell phone picture or something that washes it out with a flash. Beg,...
If you did in fact finish this build then you must know how expensive silicone can get. Recycle it. It will save you a ton of money in the future....
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