Step 2: Prep and Assembly

The fork was cleaned up and squeezed down to fit a child bike wheel. The fork originally came off a 70's era 10 speed.

To be safe I drilled some holes in the end of the fork and added some axle retainers (optional).

You will see from the picture I laid it out with 3/4" EMT to start (single tube). It was WAY to flexible so I added a second row of EMT and it worked perfectly. In hind sight I would have used two rows of 3/4" vs. the 1/2" and 3/4" combo. I also would have borrowed a bender and saved myself the welding. The dimensions will vary depending on your bike, fork and the wheel size. I eyeballed it to the frame so that it had generous wheel clearance for turning and camber changes. My goal was to keep the floor of the trailer level at rest. Go low so it handles well, but not so low it hits all the time. Mine is a little over 4" from the ground to it's lowest point.

If you had a tubing bender and new pipe this would be snap but I had to weld all the junctions together.
 well i now have the way to move all my fishing gear with me instead of taking my car thanx 
Where did you get the tag along hitch? How much did it cost? Great build, thanks for the ideas!
The hitch I am using actually came with the kids tag-a-long bike I use for my older son. It is pictured in one of the last steps, 3 I think. They are available from amazon, target and may favorite Bike Nashbar. As a matter of fact Nashbar has them for $19 right now. Here is a link. Good luck with your build. Sean<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_204249_-1_200308_200280_200395">http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_204249_-1_200308_200280_200395</a><br/>
i was always trying to find a way to sell soda with having to carry it everywhere.
thank you so much for this add i just built on almost exactly the same i just have to attach the wheel and connect to my bike
I would love to see your version of this trailer. I am in the process of building a more heavy duty version for larger loads. I have not had much time lately so it will not be posted soon. But I will eventually get an instructable on it.
That's an interesting stoker pedal arrangement. Could you tell us a little about it? Thanks!
The child stoker set up is actually a factory Burley item. The frame is a mid 70's and I bought the stoker cranks on Ebay and cobbled the rest together. The stem is an adjustable stoker stem from Ebay. Burley no longer makes them but several other do, such as precisiontandem.com and santana.com. It would be pretty easy to make with a bottom bracket and some welding skills. If you want I can add some pictures to show the detail?
Thanks! That would be really cool to see some pictures.
What is unclear to me is how the container/ flatbed stays horizontal. It seems there is only one straight tube running underneath, from the hitch to the fork. Can you explain what kind of construction to keep the flatbed at a straight angle from the wheel?
I think the fact it overlaps the fork is what prevents it from rotating on the straight tube to the fork. I don't see anything else that would prevent it from tipping over if it was just on the tube and not resting on the fork head and tubes too.. I think he should have bolted it to the tubes of the fork he is using to hold the trailer wheel and maybe added some sort of bracing to it from the top bend or vertical section of the main tube. You are right, he is not very clear about that part of it..
You are correct, the flatbed portion of plywood does overlap the crown on the fork. I noted in the dialog box but did not show a picture (my bad). There is actually a bolt through the fork crown. The bolt uses the brake caliper hole and has washers. As for bracing, the second tube of EMT on the bottom makes it very stable. As noted in my test drive and handling it works great. For heavy duty loads I have another trailer under construction now. Good insightful comments thanks.
I think it is a pretty nice job anyhow. I might have done it a bit different, but I do most things a bit different, and I tend to overbuild everything.
The concept is the same as the U-joint on a car drive shaft, it has one pivot that allows up and down motion and one pivot that allows left to right motion. The result is a hitch that allows fluid motion but not twisting. Look closely at the pictures is shows both halves of the hitch. The part that bolts to the seat post has a pivot bolt vertically and the trailer has the quick release which is the horizontal pivot bolt. If you like I can take more pictures.
I think he was asking about how you attached the chipboard to a round tube and expect it not to twist the fasteners out when you load it. How the seat post mounted connector works is plain enough.
That would be the hitch. I allows movement up/down and left/right but not to twist.
cool. whats going on with those rear pedals? tall bike tandem monster in the making?
Those are the stoker pedals for my 4 year old. Nobody rides free in this family. Everybody pedals. They are bolt on kid pedals from Burley the company the built the bike. They are direct drive to mine.
oh alright, that's cool, i've never seen those before.

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