Step 4: FINISH !!!


I want to give special thanks to Yves Usson for allowing me to use his PCB design in this instructable.
The PCB shown is for a Quadrature LFO (Low Frequency Oscillator) from his amazing modular DIY synth -
The Yusynth at http://www.yusynth.net !

Check it out!  It's amazing!

I hope this technique will help you produce perfect pcbs every time, faster, and with less work!
It sure does for me!  I can make a dozen PCB's in FAR less time than it takes me to make ONE with the heat transfer/toner method!
<p>Instructions look interesting, but you should know that a lot is two words.</p>
<p>I have tried the laser ablation method and it works wonders. I just cover my board with matt spray paint up to 3 coats and then laser etch away the color that needs to be exposed as copper.<br><br>the success of this process is highly dependant on a good solid stickiness of vinyl to copper. on straight planar surfaces, its never a problem, but its worthwhile to recheck that it has no bubbles.<br><br>vinyl is also stretchy when a little heat is applied, so make sure you don't squeege it too hard.<br><br>as an alternate, can we have the opposite parts weeded so that tracks are exposed, then spray paint as a stencil, remove the vinyl and then etch? </p>
<p>This is just the instructable I was looking for! I want to see this trick about getting all the holes in the right place. Seems like that's the really time consuming part. </p>
hey, found this using google. glad to see this works! I own a sign shop. just designed my first circuit board in corel draw and i'm getting ready to cut it out of vinyl. for etching do you use muriatic acid and peroxide, or vinegar, peroxide, and salt? -rob <br> <br>here's my design. it'll be a arduino powered wifi car starter for a PT cruiser that will stack onto the arduino, held in place with header pins (:
Using vinyl worked like a charm, thanks man!
Firstly cudos! I'm really likin this method. Secondly, would it be possible to simply cut away the vinyl around the pads and leave the rest therefore creating a type of solder mask on the board? Maybe by using a high temp vinyl so that it doesn't melt when an iron is near to it?
Interesting, but got a hunch it's not much better than what I use. Also kind of disagree about not cleaning the copper before hand. Oxidation and greasy fingerprints can mess up an etch too.<br><br>I really like the toner transfer method, since I'm doing the design on the computer anyway. I use the Pulsar Fx paper, and seldom fails. I transfer it with a hot laminator. The paper releases quickly, completely. No need to soak, or scrub paper pulp. After the etching, toner wipes off easy with a paper towel soaked in acetone. And I mean wipes off, no scrubbing here either, it just dissolves away.<br><br>About the only better way, would be a CNC router, which could also drill those holes too. Maybe some day...
One of the big reasons I like the vinyl method is that it's very forgiving of stuff like prep work and such.<br>I honestly just take the new board with no care at all and put the vinyl sticker or mask on it. <br>Dunk in into the FeCl - pat excess off after etch... wash... dunk in fingernail polish remover - vinyl just falls off but stays solid for easy disposal - and then wash again. no scrubbing and stuff!<br><br>Thing is - cutting out a bunch of small steps is really useful when making a big board.<br><br>Also - if your cutter is calibrated well... SOIC and really small traces come out just as perfect - all depends on the quality of the cut! <br><br>It's just an alternative method... they each have their pro's and con's of course... and we all have preferences. I repurpose the use of a cutter in many ways... so I'm really used to weeding and applying really fast. <br><br>Maybe I'm just terrible at the toner transfer method... always a little spotty for me...and burning boards and finding out after is terribly expensive. Not to mention alot of prep work for say 10-20 boards in a run.<br><br>Cheers - thanks for the comment!
You can try vinyl sticker and laser printer for toner transfer pcb. I can show you If you want. <br>
I'm with you for cleaning the copper, it is essential.<br><br>I messed up 2 toner cartridges for my laser printer using the toner transfer method and PNP-Blue. At $150 a cartridge that can get a bit pricey. I don't do it anymore. Photo resist is the best method.<br><br>I can't agree with you that milling is better than etching. It is slower, the tooling costs more, and it cannot achieve anywhere near the resolution chemical etching does. Milling also sets you up for ragged edges and random string shorts because copper doesn't machine cleanly. It tears and smears a lot. Has a bad habit of sticking on bits too. It is a mess. I know people do it but then again people bungee jump naked too. Which is saying that not everyone is always doing the smartest things in their spare time.<br><br>I'd imagine if milling was better then every commercial board house on the planet would be doing it, but none of them do. They all etch. They CNC drill, but I bet if they could figure out a way to etch the holes they'd be doing that too!
Are you using any particular kind of vinyl? My ma runs a vinyl cutting business that I'm frequently doing designs for so I have access to the materials and it's far easier for me than acquiring a laser printer. <br> <br>I've looked around and haven't seen any vinyl that is specifically chemical resistant, other than sand blast resistant vinyl, so most stock vinyl should be resistant to FeCl, right? <br> <br>Just wanting to make sure before I dive into printing and etching 5 circuits and eats up the vinyl.
&quot;I think it is fairly safe to say that about 99.99999% of the population has no access to a vinyl cutter. I might be off +/- by a decimal place or two there though.&quot; <br> <br>Actually you're way off. There are probably more vinyl cutters out there than there are CNCs (or guys making PCBs) - they're just in the hands of a totally different user base that you probably don't interact with much. <br> <br>Next time you're in a Hobby Lobby or Michaels, check out the Cricut section. <br>Big mass market stuff. And the folks who take it seriously have a choice of dozens of other brands they can get (usually by mail order - Cricut has the high-street shops sewn up) with differing capabilities (bed sizes, cut depth, pressure settings, etc) and prices. But for around $400 you can get a well-engineered tool that will let you cut arbitrary designs. In comparison a CNC is more expensive, and an old style pen plotter is harder to find on the used market nowadays. <br> <br>Now, to change the subject - has anyone experimented with paint-on etchant such as Armor Etch? Sold in Hobby Lobby etc for etching glass. <br> <br>regards, <br> <br>Graham <br>
It is unless you weed 1000 things in one sitting! Haha
Hi, <br> <br>What kind of cutter plotter do you use and what is smallest trace that you can achieve? <br> <br>Thanks, <br>Ovidiu
I use a 15 year old GBC 101 I think?<br>I think it's a roland clone... very basic standard cutter plotter.<br>It's really not calibrated as well as it should be but even so I can get soic traces even though it's sometimes hard to weed because the condition of my cutter.<br><br>It seems to be limited by only how small the cutter can cut - which will vary from cutter to cutter and condition of it.
First off the instructions on your etching bottle likely aren't the best. Remember they're in the business of selling you solution, not to be confused with solutions. So it isn't in their best interests for you to get the life out of their product that you should. They're not going to tell you about HCL spiking. They're not going to tell you the optimum temperature to process at. They're also not going to tell you to oxidize during the process either. The sooner you declare your acid beat and buy more the sooner they can book that flight to Hawaii.<br><br>Second I've only ever seen one vinyl cutter once in my life. They're not very common equipment. So the whole premise of your article is like saying it is easy to get rich as long as you have a goose that lays golden eggs. The hard part of course is getting the goose to begin with. Any Jack with magic beans can tell me that!<br><br>If you have robots with lasers to make then I suggest you get to it. I don't think a Shopbot will help you with that task.<br><br>Aloha.
Hmm... not sure what to say to all of that.<br>As far as the chemical comments... I think it safest that someone unfamiliar should be urged to read the warnings. If you already know about it all - then those comments shouldn't really apply to you. I just went with what I felt was most sensible for the general public which sometimes involves children or teens - and it's usually best to push carefulness when regarding chemicals... I know that when I was young that I would have just jumped in fast! This is my first instructable - and as I have written laboratory manuals in the past - I was actually trying not to go too crazy on the overstressing safety issues. From my experience though - you never know what someone will assume and I feel it my responsibility in part if instructions are not stressing of safety and care. If a company doesn't have their customer in honest interest and tries to sell more product - I have no control or place to comment on that.<br><br>If you don't have a cutter or access to one - well it's not quite a goose that lays golden eggs. I know that they are much more common than they used to be (It was pretty high tech when I got my first one 15 years ago). I hope some people that have access to one might find this useful.<br><br>Your last comment makes me wonder if I offended you somehow.<br>I'm sorry if I did - but I was just trying to share! <br><br>Cheers!
I'm sorry you took it that way. It was not my intent. I was just sharing too!<br> <br> You know water is treated with Ferric Chloride so it can't be that dangerous. Being as people drink the stuff all the time.<br> <br> My comment about the label was more what the label lacks. Which is any decent information on how to get any performance at all out of the product. Nothing a little HCL and H2SO4 can't fix up though.<br> <br> I think it is fairly safe to say that about 99.99999% of the population has no access to a vinyl cutter. I might be off +/-&nbsp; by a decimal place or two there though.<br> <br> You don't even know me so I am offended that you think you could offend me :) I was born and bred in Jersey. I'm a big boy. It takes more than most can muster to offend me. Although every time I say anything someone gets horribly offended. What? What'd I say?<br> <br> I know some rivers not too far from where I grew up that if you dunk your boards in them you should get a good etch. heh
* Plotters are very easy to find, every sign shop has them. They can't make vinyl signs without them. Unless they are printing every single sign in color which at that point you need to find another sign company. You can also make your own CNC Plotter/Mill to cut your very own vinyl right on instructables. You can make quite a bit of money cutting vinyl at a flee market for stickfigure car stickers. So you estimate of 99.99999% is way off since anyone can walk to a sign shop (Or sticker booth). So please refrain from bashing someone elses ideas with bad information.

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