The inspiration for this dress followed the first time I saw this fiberoptic product in action. I was at a festival when I saw a bloom of fiber optic jellyfish approach, and they created such a beautiful effect that I knew I had to turn the concept into something wearable. I'd been wanting to incorporate fiber optics into fashion for a while, but this made it clear what I wanted to use and how.

The fiber optics are from Ants on a Melon, and the awesome photos were taken by audreyobsura. Many thanks to both of you for all the help along the way!

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Step 1: The Design

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The design of the dress followed the fiber optics that it needed to support. As there is one central light source, I designed the back to include a pouch for the handle, and the straps of the dress to bring the fiber optics from the center back to the front, and back around the body to an even distribution at the hips.

A big design challenge was how to give the filaments enough lift at the skirt, as I wanted the skirt to push them out at as near to a 90 degree angle as possible. I was considering things like a fully boned structure or 3D printing small pieces for each group of filaments to angle them out at a perfect right angle. However in the end I just went low tech and stuffed the skirt with tutus :) I'd still like to explore these other two options eventually.

Be warned that this Instructable includes a major fail at one point, so read the whole thing first if you intend to make this. I ended up designing the dress and fiber optic design in different parts of my mind, and put the zipper on the side not thinking about the fact that once the fiber optics were sewn down, I couldn't open it! What I was thinking, I have no idea (I wasn't). But as recovering from major errors is an integral part of making, I included this saga in the Instructable.

I chose to make this dress from scratch to dust off my fashion skills, but you could definitely make something very similar by buying a V-neck dress with a circle skirt and skipping to step 13.

Step 2: Supplies

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* Fiber optic whip. Due to the success of this dress, there is now a special fiber optic package which includes untrimmed fibers so you can do the trimming yourself (I had requested as a special order the first time around). It is an untrimmed 6' Space Lace Galaxy.

• Material for the dress. I wanted something that both had body and a little stretch so it would be comfortable, and settled on a stretch woven blend with a little heft to it. I used around 3 yards.

• Fusible interfacing, as much as your circle skirt. I used 1.5 yards of 45" wide.

• Lots of tulle, or at least one tutu already made (can be any color, since it is just adding body under the skirt)

• A pattern. I made mine on a dress form, learn how here. Alternatively, a v-neck circle skirt dress shouldn't be a difficult pattern to find. If you do buy a pattern, always make a muslin first before cutting into your final fabric!

• Basic sewing supplies (sewing machine, scissors, pins, hand needle...)

• Boning, if you choose to bone the garment. I wanted it to be structured and the boning helped a lot. Use spiral boning for any curved seams, and either spiral or flat for straight seams. You can read up on types of boning here.

• Invisible zipper

• Velcro

• Clear thread (for hand sewing down the fiberoptic filaments)

Step 3: More on the Fiber Optics

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The fiber optics are from Ants on a Melon, and Joel was super helpful and responsive along the way when I had questions. There are some other similar products out there (Flowtoys being the main one), but after doing a little research I settled on Ants on a Melon for durability and how awesome it looks in person. I'd love to be able to make something like this myself, but as an electronics novice I opted to go ready-made and focus my energy on the dress itself, which was no small task!

As it's an expensive product, I thought I'd go into a little more detail on my experience with it so far. As far as looks and programs, this thing is amazing. The main downside I've found to this product in a wearable application is that the battery life is short, and the battery changing process is cumbersome (you essentially take the product apart and put it back together). Of course this was designed as a whip that one uses as a rave toy, so in its intended application it's going to be right at hand for changing batteries, and you likely won't have it on all night as with something wearable. It runs on 3.7v rechargeable lithium-ion batteries, and the battery life in my experience has been around 45 minutes if using the fancy patterns, longer on say, solid red. My goal is to wire up the existing product to a hefty battery pack that I can strap under the skirt, so I'll share that in this step of the instructable once I've successfully found a good battery backup solution.

Overall I'm very happy with how it looks, and the majority of the cost is for the fiber optics themselves which have so far been very durable (I have yet to lose a filament, and I've already stepped on them a bunch :).

Step 4: Cut Out Pattern

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Enough about design. Time to start sewing!

Cut out your pattern. The front and back pieces I cut out on the fold, and the rest I cut two layers, one for each side of the bodice. I planned on having two layers for the bodice, but to start I only cut one set in order to try it on first for fit.

Step 5: Initial Fitting

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Next I sewed the bodice together, and tried it on for fit.


Every single thing you do to a garment changes it's fit a little, so if you care about having perfect fit, always take the time to try it on between stages of sewing. It takes less time to sew a seam than to rip it out. I've learned this lesson the hard way more often than I'd like to admit, even after 20 years of sewing!

In my case, I found that the back seams were too roomy in the middle, so I took them in as needed.

Step 6: Second Layer and Fitting

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Taking into account the adjustment I made to the back seams, I cut out another set of bodice pieces and sewed the second layer of the bodice.

Once done, I laid them face sides together, and sewed the whole top line of the garment (including the straps), leaving a space open for where the straps would be sewn into the center back. After turning it right side out, I then understitched along the neckline to keep the edge looking clean in the front.

When finished, I tried it on again to make sure the fit was still as I intended. It still fit well, but had become quite a bit tighter than just the single layer, so I'm glad I didn't overdo it when I took in the back seams.

Step 7: Bodice Additions

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Next I topstitched along the straps up until the shoulder for a flat edge there, and inset the straps to the back after measuring the appropriate length in my last fitting. After sewing the straps into the bodice in the open area I left in the top seam, I reinforced them by stitching a row or two along the top of the right side out garment.

There also needs to be a pouch to hold the light source for the fiber optics (the handle), so I made a pocket for it and attached it to the center back. Measure first, as you want it to be a snug fit.

Remember that my zipper should be going in the back, not the side, and most of what I'm doing in this step I will end up redoing. Fun times!

Step 8: Add Boning

The last step for the bodice was to add boning. Very important - thoroughly clip and press your seams first, as you want everything to lay nice and flat. As I am only adding in one bone per seam vs two, I pressed the seams in the direction I would be putting the bones, so as to have extra fabric in the channel to protect it.

Once the seams were all well pressed, I sewed channels for the bones (more on that here), and measured each bone to the seam. You want about 1/2" of space for the bone to move around, so as not to create stress on the ends of the channel.

I then trimmed my bones to size, and because I didn't have any caps for the bones I went the extremely janky route and capped them with masking tape. This is not recommended, but it's better than nothing! You just don't want them poking through your garment.

Step 9: Make the Circle Skirt

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Now for the easier half of the dress, the circle skirt. First I made a paper pattern, using MATH. Wow, imagine getting to use pi in dressmaking. Take the total measurement around the bottom of your bodice (excluding seam allowance for where the zipper will go), and divide by pi to get your inner diameter. Divide by two for the radius, and from a central point use a ruler to dot that radius along a half circle for what will be your waist seam. Then dot along the outer circle for the desired length of skirt.

In my case I wanted to have a bubble skirt, and after playing around with some muslin settled on 20" as being about the right length.

To make the skirt, I cut two layers of final fabric, and one layer of fusible interfacing which I attached to the inside layer of fabric. I settled on this approach after some trial and error. I knew I wanted the skirt to have a little body in order to provide a good base for the fiber optics, but I couldn't get the layer with fusible interfacing to look clean no matter how much ironing I did, as you can see from the wrinkles in the third and fourth images. Hence cutting another layer to go on the outside of the interfaced layer, which solved the issue well.

Lastly I pinned all the layers together, and cut a small slit for the zipper to go, just far enough into the skirt so that I could pull it over my hips easily.

Step 10: Attach the Skirt and Zipper... oh wait... FAIL

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Next I attached the skirt, added the zipper, and voila, mostly finished dress! Until, wait, FAIL.

Only once I started laying down the fiber optics did I realize this was an impossible place for the zipper. I realized I'm going to have to take the whole thing apart and redo it... Breath. It's gonna be OK. What the %#!@ was I thinking!

Once I regained my composure, I considered my alternatives. I could:

A) change my plan for where the fiber optics were going to go (but I liked my plan for the fiber optics..)

B) take it apart and move the zipper to the front (pro: wouldn't have to work around the battery pack pouch in back, con: would ruin the clean look of the dress in front)

C) take it apart and move the zipper to the back (pro: keep front clean, con: have to do a weird work around for the battery pack pouch)

I opted for C.

Step 11: Fixing My Mistake

To fix my mistake, I first detached the zipper and skirt from the bodice, as well as one side of the battery pack pouch.

Next was to prepare the center back for a zipper. To stabilize the seam, I added fusible seam tape along the center, and reinforced it with a zig zag stitch on either side in order to keep both layers of fabric together (very helpful when adding zippers). I made the cut, committing myself to this new plan C.

The other repair was to sew together the side seam. Luckily I had enough room to sew it together the proper way, as in sewing the front and back side panels to each other on both the inner and outer layer of the bodice, vs, just sewing all four layers together at once with the seam allowance facing inwards (this would be the hack job approach). I then sewed my channels and added boning. With that, the major bodice alterations were complete.

From there I sewed the circle skirt back to the bodice. Make sure you pin this seam thoroughly first, as it will save you lots of time and headache to have it all lined up well before sewing.

Step 12: Add the Zipper

I glossed over the zipper addition the first time around, so here are a few more photos on adding a zipper.

Now that I have my nice new opening ready and waiting for a zipper again, the first step is to lay down my zipper and see how long it should be. Measure from the top down, and add a bar tack where the zipper should end. Trim the excess. Although not entirely necessary, it is also helpful with invisible zippers to iron them flat(er) first, so it's easier to sew.

I already reinforced our seam with seam tape, this is very helpful to keep the fabric from stretching, which can create all kinds of bubbles and wrinkles in a zipper.

I changed to a zipper foot, and laid my zipper face side down, as in the fourth picture. Now time to start sewing! Sew very close to the teeth, but not so close as to sew over them, or the zipper pull will get stuck.

Step 13: Add Pouch

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The only downside to having the zipper in the back, was that I'd have to finagle the back pouch over the zipper. I ended up going a simple route with a thin line of velcro to secure the one side, so I could still easily access the zipper. It wasn't the cleanest solution, but it worked out OK.

With that, I'd officially caught up to where I was before the zipper fiasco.

Step 14: Bubble the Skirt

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I debated a lot about what style to make the skirt, but I ended up settling on a bubble skirt because of its jellyfish-like shape, and as a way to add lift and shape.

I measured out a piece of elastic with a snug fit my waist, and realized that even if I stretched it to it's max, I could not match it up to the circumference of the circle skirt. So, I pleated the entire circle skirt with pins, using notches at each quarter point to match up with the quarter points along the elastic. Once everything was thoroughly pinned into place, I sewed down the elastic, and had my bubble skirt.

Step 15: Make a Tutu

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Next I made a tutu to give some lift to the skirt. I focused on making the short layers dense, and the longer layers more sparse, to focus most of the lift right at the waist.

You could definitely buy a tutu as well to save time, although they are pretty quick to make. In order to give the skirt maximum lift I ended up wearing the dress with two more tutus layered on top of this one anyways :P More lift equals more dramatic swing of the fiber optics!

As I mentioned in the design step, I'd like to try a structured dome at some point, but went this route for now in the interest of time and comfort.

Step 16: Finished Dress, Before Fiber Optics

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At this point the dress itself is done and ready for the addition of the fiber optics. I was pretty happy with how the skirt turned out in terms of shape, and the fit of the bodice turned out well too.

Step 17: Add the Fiber Optics

Now for the fun/extremely tedious part! Because I am a perfectionist at times, I wanted all of the fiber optics to be sewn down to the bodice for a clean, orderly look. But there was no way I was going to sew down 360 individual filaments, so instead I divided them into groups which I evenly aligned along the bodice.

To make this process manageable, I first combed out and divided the whip into groups of 10 filaments each, which I kept them separate with knots of yarn. From there I sewed the filaments down along the back straps and top shoulder in groups of 30, as at this point they were very dense. They started to spread out from one another at the bust line, so from that point I sewed each line down individually. In order to make it easier to distribute them evenly, I measured and tacked them down along the waist line first to use as a general guide.

This whole process was slow going, but it was great mindless work to do with a movie on, and it really made it look polished. It's all in the details!

Step 18: Trim the Fiber Optics

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The last step was to trim the fiber optics to the desired length. As the light emanates from wherever the filament is cut, I wanted to spread out the points of light like a layered haircut. Luckily the whip was just long enough for me to have some extra to work with, and Joel from Ants on a Melon also did me a favor and sent me a whip that had not been pre-layered, so I could do the layering myself.

Aside from just cutting the filaments, there are lots of options for making your fiber optics shine. As the light will escape wherever there is a cut or nick in the filament, distressing them with sandpaper, scissors, or simply natural wear and tear creates very cool effects. For this project I wanted to keep the light focused at the bottom, however depending on the look you are going for, it's something fun to keep in mind!

Step 19: Finished!

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After all that work, get ready to be the life of the party! Thank you for reading :)

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What sort of fiber optics did you use and where did you get them from? (Please <3)

mcr714 days ago

I think what you've created is absolutely awesome!!!

SimpleAsPi7 months ago

Thank you so much for making this Instructable! Your descriptions and photos are spot-on and helped me get over my fear of making my first dress - from scratch! I can't wait to add fiber optics and awesome lights. I don't have a fiber optic flashlight, so I was going to make a DIY version. I was wondering, if you were making another dress, would you use the same number of strands again, or more or fewer?

Natalina (author)  SimpleAsPi7 months ago

Horray for making your first dress from scratch! As for strands, I am quite happy with how many there were (360). Any more and they would have barely fit over my shoulders in any elegant fashion. Fewer would have looked thin by the bottom. Take care with choosing the thickness of the fibers. The product I used has a great weight, it is thick enough that it has some body to it and isn't very fragile, but isn't so thick that it is difficult to work with. Good luck, and I'd love to see what you come up with!

SimpleAsPi made it! Natalina7 months ago

Using 360 strands worked just perfectly! Also, I have a newfound respect for your patience now after sewing on ALL those fibers. I can't express enough gratitude for your Instructable's guidance (especially detailed photos like where to place the pins and stitches to hold the fibers for sewing).

After all that work, the end results are totally worth it. I couldn't be happier with how my dress turned out. In my DIY lighting version, I ended up using NeoPixels to illuminate the fibers, with two laser-cut acrylic holders securing all the bundles. I have an Adafruit Gemma controlling the LEDs so I can program different lighting patterns, and a 12V battery powering it all. The skirt makes a perfect hiding spot for the electronics.

I'm totally excited to wear mine at Burning Man next week! Will you be there with yours?


Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me a bit more about how you attached the filaments to the neopixels--maybe a drawing of these acrylic holders you made? I am looking to go the same route (w/ the flora or gemma) but don't know how I'm going to attach the filaments to the flat neopixel. Usually I'd use an ultra bright LED bulb and clear tubing, obvs. that won't work with the neopixel.

Looks great BTW! Haven't used neopixel yet and was concerned it wouldn't be bright enough. Your photos but my mind at ease there!

Where did you get the fiber? Any tips on attaching them? Thanks!

Hi Marie! I bought these fibers from Ebay ( I needed 2 sets, 200 strands each, 0.75mm diameter. Starting at the back of the dress, the fibers are in bundles of 20 each, and then they're divided into bundles of 10 starting at the shoulders. I made each group of 20 fibers by placing the strands side-by-side on the sticky side of a piece of packing tape, then rolling it up tightly. Then I trimmed the ends so they're all even. The LEDs and fibers are held in place using a laser-cut acrylic adapter that I designed (I'm happy to share the Illustrator files for it). Finally, to sew all the fibers to the dress, I followed Natalie's excellent instructions. Best of luck, and have fun!

Natalina (author)  SimpleAsPi7 months ago

That turned out so awesome!! I'm new to electronics, but using neopixels is the next thing I wanted to try, but was struggling with how to attach the fibers to the strip. Thanks for sharing photos of the back, I'm excited to explore this method! I may pick your brain more when I get to the next iteration :)

I'm taking this year off of burning man, but you can rock the dress in my stead! Have a great time!

So I bought the 360 fiberoptic whip from Ants on a Melon, and found a turquoise/aqua blue A-line dress from Macy's. It doesn't have a v-neck, and the zipper goes up the back. I'm making the dress for the Mad Scientists Ball at Sci-Port: Louisiana's Science Center, where I will be working the ball, serving drinks. The theme is Monsters, Myths, and Legends, and my area (Science Corner) is the Mythological Creatures section. I'm not sure what mythological creature I'll be, LOL, but I got a tiara, fishnet aqua fingerless gloves, and white go-go boots from ellieshoes. Oh and a tiara. I think I'll go as "Princess Awesome".

Anyway, we have several 3D printers. I'm just wondering how I could integrate 3D printed object to help form the dress. Maybe give it some lift at the skirt, but what would I make and how would I hold it down? Also, the back is fairly high, and scooped, like the front. Not sure where exactly I'd put the handle. I love the garter belt idea for holding things down, but if I put the handle there, it would be weird because that's where the bundle of lights starts. The dress has 23 or so inch-wide strips, like flat pleats, where I intend to sew down the fibers.

Any suggestions are welcome!

Generally I would still recommend putting the handle in the center back, as it has to be along the zipper or below it for you to get in and out of the dress. I wouldn't recommend a garter, because the motion of walking would pull and push the fibers out of place. I'm not sure how wide the a-line is, but you could potentially put the handle under the dress as part of a tutu/petticoat underlayer, space permitting.

As for 3d printing, one of the things I thought about was making essentially elbow macaroni with sew holes for the fiber bundles to pass through at the waist, in order to direct them outwards without weighing down the skirt. There are a lot of things you could experiment with in terms of form, since the shape formed by the fibers and the shape of the dress don't necessarily need to match.

Be sure to post photos when you are done - I'd love to see it!

KarinaL11 month ago

Ok so I got the lights and the dress but the dress does not have a zipper but it criss crosses with a ribbon in the back. I am having difficulty in figuring out how to put on and take off the dress once the fiber optic is sewn on? It needs to expand in order for my daughter to get out of the dress. Please help..

Natalina (author)  KarinaL11 month ago

Anywhere the fiber optics are sewn to will not be expandable, so I'd either make a pocket for it that hangs over the criss cross, or figure out a place to embed it under the skirt and make a hole for the fibers to pass through to the back of the dress.

MikaelaHolmes made it!4 months ago

Thank you for the incredible inspiration! My version was made as a wedding dress for a wedding on the playa this year. The Bride saw your dress and wanted something similar. I used the double ended version of the whip to embellish an existing dress (to which I also added a shoulder piece). The whip is hidden in under the flowers of the skirt at the back. The light of the strands diffused really nicely through these organza flowers, giving the whole skirt a glow. I eventually ended up wiring my whip to a larger Lithium ion battery by drilling a hole in the bottom of the whip and running wire out from the existing battery connector. Photos by

emlewin made it!4 months ago
Thank you so much for this!! I followed your instructions and the dresses turned out amazing! Your dress idea was so incredible, I can sew, but chose to just find dresses that would work. I really like working with this better than the el wires
Natalina (author)  emlewin4 months ago

These turned out great! Thanks so much for posting these photos!

karina908056 months ago

OMG This is beautiful!! I would like this for my daughter's Sweet 16's perfect for her glow in the dark theme!! Plus her dress is like Cinderella (Quinceanera style) and the fibers dangling will lay nicely...Love Love Love this!! and I know she would too. Unfortunately, I don't sew, I make beaded jewelry lol. Nowadays, it's hard finding a seamstress in my area :(((( So sad. I'm open for any suggestions, if u have any. Her party is until March 2015. Please help. Below are 2 dresses she had picked out but would be amazing right??

Natalina (author)  karina908056 months ago

You can always buy the fiberoptics and hand sew them to your dress of choice, no real sewing experience required, just a lot of patience :) It wouldn't have the same silhouette, but in the dark you would get a similar effect.

Yeah true but I don't wanna mess it up lol. I was thinking having the fiber optic along the edges of the bust line all around and that v shape around the waist (of purple dress) and let the rest of the lighting dangle like your dress. Would that look okay?? Dress will be white of course.

Natalina (author)  karina908054 months ago

I'm sure whatever you do will turn out great, and no need for a white dress necessarily!

I don't know if this will help but I make wedding dresses. I am not able to see the pictures of the dresses your daughter has picked out but please reach out to me on Facebook under John Roberts Bridal. We may be able to help you out. :-)
Thank you,
Johnathan P.
John Roberts Bridal

contact your local fabric store. They can give you names of seamstresses. There may even be one that works there.

Jetpack55 months ago

Beautiful! I'll remember for when my daughter is younger.

This is so amazing. I do not sew. When I saw this I said to myself, what a gifted person. I read down through your story and was very impressed. You have blessed hands and to share this with others so they can create their own is wonderful. I keep replaying the video because it is magical. Keep up your fabulous work. Wish I could sew, if I could I would make something like this for my great nieces when they turn 5 so they could look like angels.

roprish5 months ago

Is a white dress a must? Would it work on a black dress?

Natalina (author)  roprish5 months ago

I think it would work fine on any color dress. I chose white because it is more visible at night, and provides a good backdrop for the light coming from the fiberoptics.

casgrillot5 months ago

Awesome! I had the same idea about a year ago for a fiber optic jellyfish dress. I made sketches and everything, I just didn't have the time/money to invest in it yet. Seeing this dress in action is really inspiring, I can't wait to make my own! ^_^

HEllo! BEautiful. What type of stitch did you use to sew the fiber optic filaments down? Thank you :-)

Natalina (author)  agatha.lee.7946 months ago

Nothing too fancy, just a whip stitch I think (I don't know my hand sewing stitches well). I tried to pass the thread through the backside in between stitches to keep the visible thread to a minimum, then just did a loop around the fibers to tack them down. My stitches were about an inch apart.

cambriakil made it!6 months ago

Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I absolutely loved the process of making this beautiful dress and am wearing it to my university's Science Ball which is themed 'Bright Lights'. I love how it turned out and all my family and friends are very impressed.

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Natalina (author)  cambriakil6 months ago

That's fantastic! I'm so glad you made one and love it. Have an awesome time showing it off at the Science Ball :)

PHIVO6 months ago

Wauw, this is what future clothing looks like. So nice that you are willing to share this amazing concept. Thanks!

Raquelgal8 months ago

Hi Natalina! Beautiful dress! When you were sewing the fibre optics to the dress how often did you stitch them down? Did you have a continual running stitch down the length of the fibre optic or did you tie each stitch off?

Natalina (author)  Raquelgal8 months ago

I had a combination of both. I started with a line of stitching at the top and front shoulder a few inches apart that held all the fibers down, and once they started to separate I used a continual running stitch from the front shoulder to the waist on each bundle of fibers. I think things would have still looked good if I only stitched them down every few inches, but I wanted to keep the inside clean.

Awesome! Thank you Natalina!

snowjill8 months ago

This tutorial is amazing and I'm currently in the process of making this dress for a costume party. I did want to ask though how important the boning is to the garment because this is the step I appear to have glossed over. The bodice is double layered and form fitted so I'm hoping it will still be ok but definitely wanted to reach out for your opinion and what the boning did for your garment once completed.

Thanks again for making this tutorial! So helpful.

Natalina (author)  snowjill8 months ago

I don't think the boning is a must, but I preferred it for this application as it gave some additional structure so the fibers could be sewn down to something that was more static in shape. Without it the fabric will bunch and move more while it's on, which can make the fibers pull and push out of their channel more. As it is, I still need to tug the fibers back down periodically, as depending on how I'm moving certain areas of fibers will want to move upwards and will stick up a little at the shoulder. Hope that makes sense, it's a somewhat difficult phenomena to explain.

I'm excited you are making the dress! Be sure to post some photos when you are finished, I look forward to seeing the finished product!

hot cat8 months ago


tatartt8 months ago

This is wonderful idea.The fiber optic system is very fantastic and useful, if you want to meet the eye.Congralutions :)

callmebessy8 months ago
Hi, i love the dress and I was thinking about making a dress like this for prom (I'll have to figure something different out with the battery issue) but I was wondering if you knew how I could make a fiber optic tie for my date or where I could find something along those same lines? Thanks :)
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