Finland File Knife Blade

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Introduction: Finland File Knife Blade

I made this from an old file from finland. I grinded it with an belt grinder. I brought the blade portion up past the magnetic point while leaving the ricasso and the shaft relatively cool.and then quenched it in oil. I mirror polished it by bringing up the grit from 80,120,220,400,1200 and polishing compound. i cut the right angles on the bottom to accept where i will be putting a brass cross guard and a hickory handle. i hope to get the brass soon and work on it shortly. i will pin the rattail in the handle. Does anyone have advice on the best way to do this with what i have so far?

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    In that case, you should be able to drill a hole in it at the base of the tang through the wood as well, just like a full tang knife

    I have yet to finish mine, but I would recommend starting with slightly larger then a 1x1 block of wood for the handle. Drill a hole in the middle the size of the tang. Put some epoxy in the hole and put the knife in. Let it cure then shape your handle as desired. One other question, how wide is the tang?

    I did a larger knife like that from a rasp, but don't know how to do the handle. Any suggestions?

    BTW: a hint on where to find some brass for guards: big old padlocks ;-)

    I will have to check it out!! thank you. although it mite be easier to just buy stock material then search for padlocks, its not a very common item. unless you have any certain recommendations...

    Hehehe, where I live it's exactly the other way around: big padlocks can be found in DYI stores or even discarted if you know where to search for them, while stock material for brass is rather hard and expensive to find ;-)

    Good Job !!
    I subscribe to what mr.mountaineer said: do not use right angles where the blade ends and turn into the thang. Right angles makes that a weak point where the knife could break under heavy load. To do that I put holes in the file with a large drill bit, then I prefer to have a wide tapered tang.
    One thing on the Heat Treat: passing the magnetic point is a weak hint you are going the right way. Let me explain: iron ( thus steel) gets non magnetic at 770°C, but most steels, due to the chemical composition, get to the austenic point between 750°C and 850°C or more, each steel has his own temperature. You should keep the blade at this temperature for 5 or 10 minutes (the thicker the blade, the longer) and then quench. Also quenching has some "tricks" you could use to maximize martensite content in the blade: Drop the temperature from (say) 800°C to 400°C in a second, then go to 200°C in 10-30 seconds and then keep the 200°C for 5 to 10 minutes or so.