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Fire Lamp!

Fire Lamp!

This Instructable will guide readers through the fairly simple process of making a lamp from a spent fire extinguisher. I originally wanted to put some kind of flammable liquid in the empty tube, add a wick, and make a mildly ironic torch, but I like how this came out.

Perhaps it's a misnomer for the project...but hey, you're reading, so I guess it worked.
 
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Step 1Materials

Materials

Check the picture below for what you'll need...and mentally add a hot glue gun or some sort of effective metal-to-plastic adhesive.
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60 comments
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Dec 19, 2006. 8:53 AMstienman says:
Don't worry about re-attaching them backwards or anything

Regarding the electrical wiring.

Please worry about attaching the wires backwards. Even if you intend to never give this lamp to anyone who might do stupid things with it, there is a polarity and a reason for polarity for lightbulb sockets.

The neutral should always be the ring of the socket, and the hot should be the bottom center contact of the socket.

If you stick your finger in the socket accidentally then chances are good you'll touch the outer ring only, and not the center contact. If it's neutral then you'll get little or no shock. If you do touch the center contact, you'll likely also be touching the ring. The electrical path will then largely be constrained to your finger and not go through your heart.

If the socket is miswired, then touching the ring first will cause the electricity to go through your body to whatever ground it can find.

-Adam

Moving in southeast Michigan? Buy my house: http://ubasics.com/house/
Interested in electronics? Check out the projects at http://ubasics.com
Building your own house? Check out http://ubasics.com/home/
May 9, 2007. 3:58 PMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
actually, sorry, but wall outlets are AC meaning it doesnt matter, their both live 1/2 the time (switches 40 tiems a second.....an electrician told me this BTW so I'm not jsut some random kid wqho doesnt know anything)
Aug 9, 2007. 10:18 AMgamer says:
it isnt 40 times a second, it is 60 times a second, and i should know, my dad is an electrician, and so is my uncle. so next time that you are not sure of something, say "I think it switches 40 times a second". thank you- gamer
Nov 5, 2010. 2:59 PMuberdum05 says:
Or 50 :)
Aug 10, 2007. 1:04 AMJames (pseudo-geek) says:
hmmm.....maybe its different in different places then.
Apr 19, 2009. 1:58 AMtwocvbloke says:
At the moment, the electrical standards around the world are 120v 50 or 60 Hz or 240v 50 or 60Hz, 40Hz may have been used long ago in the past, but harmonization of electrical systems means that they were replaced with what we have today... :)

See here for more info:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_plug#World_maps
May 10, 2007. 9:23 AMstienman says:
In the US the neutral wire is connected to ground at the breaker box. This means that the neutral wire, regardless of the AC cycle, will be at or near ground and poses very little shock hazard.

Therefore the neutral wire is not "live" half the time.

Also, note that simply because some lamps do not have polarized plugs does not mean it's safe to wire it this way. Lamps with terminals or connectors where a "standard" human finger can come into contact with live voltage have to obey certain rules to be UL certified. This lamp has user-accessible terminals that are directly AC connected, and should attempt to prevent this possible hazard, especially since it's so easily, cheaply, and quickly implemented.

Many lamps do not have to worry about this for a variety of reasons. For example, they may use transformers and low voltage for the lamp, the socket and/or contacts might not be touchable (small opening for the bulb), or they may be protected behind glass when in operation.

And some lamps are not UL certified and may pose a hazard to their users.

-Adam
Jan 19, 2007. 10:32 AM5Volt says:
I'm not sure about regulations,but wouldn't a ground connection to the metallic base make the lamp safer ? I like you lamp ! Ciao 5V.
Feb 8, 2007. 5:33 AMinfiniteregress says:
I think a metal lamp (or any other appliance with a metal shell, for that matter), by regulation must be earthed. It's to stop a fault from developing inside the appliance which may result in the shell becoming live. It's easy to imagine a power cable becoming frayed and the active line coming into contact with the case... I'm fairly sure that's the case, check it out and see.
Mar 1, 2007. 6:11 PMidaedheloth says:
As long as you don't yank on the wire, I think the chances of it fraying spontaneously are quite low. Also, I have to disagree with the whole polarity thing. many many store bought lamps do not have polarized plugs, indicating that in any given situation, either the center contact or the screw receptacle might be "hot".... my lamp has an un-polarized plug at any rate.
Dec 19, 2006. 11:19 AMPhesarnion says:
although its good practice to keep the same wiring, as it helps keep the power in-phase, mains voltage is AC - Alternating current, meaning that the power zips BOTH ways, one after the other, usually at a rate of 50Hz (50 times per minute). If you do stick your finger in the socket and at the same time you have (stupidly) earthed yourself, you are going to get a jolt no matter which way the plug is wired.
Dec 19, 2006. 12:42 PMtrebuchet03 says:
You can safely touch the neutral wire as it is at ground potential. AC does "zip" both ways, but only when the circuit is completed ;) You - the meat person touching the neutral wire just so happen to be at ground potential too. That's why the hot wire will shock you - you complete the circuit :P
Jul 19, 2010. 6:51 PMDIY Dave says:
I would use a propane torch, but I don't know if it would be safe to drill into it.
Aug 16, 2008. 6:35 PMalexhalford says:
From a safety point of view, the socket should be neutral and the bottom of the bulb should be live. From a 'will it work' point of view, it doesn't matter. The neutral wire is always at or nearly at 0V, the live wire swings between 230v and -230v at a rate of 50Hz (in the UK). For this reason, you won't get shocked from by the neutral wire. And, to answer some questions on here, yes, appliances with a metal casing must be, by regulation, earthed. (Trust me, I've taken apart enough appliances in my time to notice that every one has had its metal casing earthed. Great 'ible. AlexHalford
Apr 19, 2009. 1:52 AMtwocvbloke says:
Not true, I have received shocks from the Neutral wires whilst holding an earth wire, though not lethal (or at least my reflexes did me proud), it still hurts like hell!!! :S AC current (whether it's our 240v 50Hz or the US 120v 60Hz) runs back and forth along the wires, so the Neutral (or Cold as our American (and Canadian) friends call it) is also "live"... :S The safest way to make sure you don't receive a shock is to unplug the device or switch off the power at the fusebox... :)
Nov 29, 2009. 8:08 AMalexhalford says:
Are you sure that was not after a transformer? Within the main fuse box (of the area, not just your house) the neutral and earth wires are, in fact, connected.
Jul 16, 2007. 4:48 AMwhiteboipumas says:
this would go good in a loft
May 24, 2007. 11:25 AMrh387 says:
To solder "inside the fire extinguisher," you could simply cut the wire where the connection would be inside the cylinder, feed the wall end of the wire in through the base hole and up through the top. solder it up outside the tube, insulate it well, and then pull it back. Some heat shrink tubing would do wonders for your insulation.
May 21, 2007. 7:43 PMberky93 says:
im so gonna make a fire extinguisher oil-lamp! (irony!)
Apr 7, 2007. 10:05 AMT3h_Muffinator says:
Nice lamp! As soon as I'm done making a moving scanner head lamp, I'll definitely make one of these!! Also, I've never thought of clipping wires that way, so that they don't short! Thank you so much for that!! -Muffin
Apr 27, 2007. 2:07 PMmarc92 says:
Please let me know when your moving scanner head lamp is complete and the instructable is up. thanks ps nice instructable
Apr 27, 2007. 5:01 PMT3h_Muffinator says:
No Problem =) Probably won't be for a while though.... I have to study for SATs, APs, and SAT IIs
Apr 27, 2007. 5:04 PMmarc92 says:
OK thanks
Apr 8, 2007. 9:11 AMT3h_Muffinator says:
OOH! I've never thought of doing that! That's a great Idea!!!!

(Sorry, I get pretty enthusiastic sometimes)

That should be up by tomorrow ;) (My friend asked me to write her name out in light a few weeks back, that should be the perfect instructable)

And yes, the lamp will be posted @ Instructables... when I get the time to make it... stupid SATS and AP tests....
Apr 14, 2007. 2:20 AMpardonmyfreedom says:
lol: theres a fire, "QUICK, GET THE FIRE EXTINGUISHER!" "I CANT! I TURNED INTO A LAMP BECAUSE I WAS BORED AND NEEDED LIGHT"
Jan 4, 2007. 7:52 PMTheMadScientist says:
heres your sweet custom decals - cheap ghetto ms-paint style
Jan 5, 2007. 2:40 AMTheMadScientist says:
note, if you do try to make these into stickers, they WERE made in ms paint, and DO NOT have any alpha channels, you have to put those in yourself.
Dec 21, 2006. 1:24 AMkaren608 says:
QUESTION about used fire extinguishers: i got three old ones now, 2 emptied out, but one has a dial that says empty, but when i pulled the pin and nothing discharged, it still is heavy. is it safe to use this or is it plugged up with age, dial reading wrong.??? any advice on this. I have two to turn into lamps at least, just don't want any accidents trying to use the third one!
Jan 2, 2007. 12:22 PMcrapflinger says:
most (if not all) household extinguishers are a,b, and C type extinguishers (can put out paper fires, chemical fires, and electrical fires) so they are filled with this poweder that helps the extinguishability of the device...that's probably what you're feeling as far as the weight with these...the meter on the extinguisher only measures the preassure in the device not the actual contents...so you'd probably be safe cutting the thing open and getting that powder out...just don't breathe too much of it in...it's not the nicest stuff for the lungs (and probably...like everything else in the world "is known to cause cancer in california")
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