loading
Here's how to build a nice-quality fire staff for cheaper than most places sell them. Costs about 35GBP (for a huge staff) and takes 2-3 hours to construct.

Step 1: Safety First!

First off, I should point out that firespinning is a dangerous activity. You can painfully hit yourself in every single one of those squishy and easily-bruised bits that you never knew you had. You can trivially set long hair ablaze. You can set your clothes on fire. You can set your fuel dump on fire.

It goes without saying that safety is your number one priority. Don't spin lit up if you're not very confident in your own abilities, don't spin alone, don't spin when it's raining and slippery underfoot and NEVER EVER use petrol as a fuel. Personally I only use paraffin (kerosene in the USA) which is relatively safe both to burn and store. Make sure all long hair is tied back, fuel up well away from your performance area, spin off all excess fuel before lighting up, and wear only cotton clothing (or similar non-flammables: leather etc).

Simply put, I cannot stress enough quite how much of a danger the inexperienced firespinner can be to themselves and those around them. This is just a construction guide - while I'm happy to give pointers here and there I'm not going to take responsibility for your own stupidity.

That said, firespinning is a hell of a lot of fun. If you've been spinning glow-staves or broom handles and you're reasonably proficient then adding fire to your act may be just what you want to spice it up a little. Assuming you're still with me, I'm going to outline a fairly quick method of building a staff that will be safe and durable while not breaking the bank.

Step 2: Ingredients

So, on to the required materials.

First you need a piece of metal for the main body of the staff. I used aluminium tubing because it's both light and durable. For your first staff I'd pick a piece that's about long enough to reach your armpit; as this is my third staff I went for an fairly hefty 5'6" in length. Just use a shorter piece if you want. This piece is 7/8" diameter round tubing with 16G wall which I bought from a local Metal Supermarket for £13.43 including tax.

You'll also need a couple of pieces of round wooden dowel small enough to just fit inside your tubing. I used 30cm of 18mm dowel that I bought from a local timber merchant for 40p, then cut in half.

The grip came from a local sports store, and is designed for tennis rackets. Each pack has three lengths (enough for three rackets) - you'll need two lengths. This was reduced (end-of-line) and cost £2.49 per pack.

You'll also need some random hardware - either two or three screws for each end. I used 8mm x 1.5" wood screws but this will vary depending on how much wick you'll be using. Either guess or wait until haldway through construction before buying. Don't worry, I'll tell you when :-) You'll also need some washers to reduce the pressure on the wick and make it look nicer - ask for 'cup washers' and you'll get some like these. The screws and washers together cost me 85p.

Finally, and most importantly, you'll need some wick. I used Kevlar/cotton blended wick from Firetoys UK. For a standard wick you'll need between 50cm and 75cm per end of ~80mm wick, but I went wildly overboard and used a whole metre of 100mm wick on each end. 2 metres of 100mm wick cost me £20.88 including delivery.

Total materials cost: £38.05 for a truly enormous staff. Contrast with Firetoys' cheapest staff: £33.95 for a 1 metre staff with 70cm of 50mm wick!

You'll also need a screwdriver (or electric screwdriver for the lazy), power drill and (optionally) a soldering iron. A hacksaw will also come in useful if you can't persuade shop staff to cut things up for you.

Step 3: Grip

The first thing to do is attach your grip. First, mark the centre of your staff with a permanent marker or CD pen. This is easy to find: just find the balance point of the tubing by balancing it on your finger and mark around that spot.

Next, attach one end of your grip at the centre of your staff and start winding it around towards one end. With my grip one end had a tiny self-adhesive pad to help this: otherwise just use a tiny bit of electrical tape to secure the end. Wrap the whole length around the staff (overlap each wrap so the edge of the previous wrap is about halfway up the tape) and secure the end with a few turns of electrical tape.

I wrap with about a 50% overlap - overlapping less will give you a longer grip that is slightly thinner, and overlapping more will give you a shorter but thicker and more padded grip. Adjust to taste :-) Using self-adhesive grip tape is also a possibility, but it becomes much harder to adjust. If you're using this type of grip, make sure you apply it right first time!

Step 4: Grip: Part Two

Now you have the first section of grip attached, stick the end of your second length of grip to the centre of the staff. You can then wind it around the staff as before, securing it at the end with more electrical tape. Finish off the grip by wrapping some more tape around the centre of the grip - this will both hold it together and help you see where the balance point of the staff is easily when you're performing.

Feel free to use a contrasting colour of tape if you want - black was all I had to hand.

Step 5: Wicking

First a quick safety note: please be very careful when handling the wicking material as it contains fibreglass, which can be extremely irritating to skin (the fibres can cause tiny cuts which hurt badly). Try not to handle the wicking too much or touch it with a stroking motion as this exposes you to more of the fibre ends. If you feel more comfortable then wear some protective gloves for the last few steps. This also applies when drilling the wicking later on - don't handle the swarf directly!

Cut your wicking to length, then use a short length of tape to attach it to the staff at one end. Wrap the wicking around the staff tightly, remembering that the tighter your wicks are wrapped, the better (they'll last longer if no air can get in to allow the fuel to burn anywhere except on the surface).

Once you get to the final wrap, turn back the last inch or so of wick to form a seam - this is important to prevent the wicks fraying and unravelling. Hold the wick in place with a couple of lengths of tape, and wrap the other end.

This is the point where you should go and buy your fixing hardware if you haven't already done so - measure from the centre of the tubing to the outside of the wick and use screws screws of this length (to the nearest half-inch or so).

Step 6: Wicking, Part 2

Optional: Use the soldering iron to burn holes through the first couple of layers of wicking to help when locating the drill bit. This makes drilling slightly easier, but is by no means essential. Be careful not to burn the tape with the soldering iron, or your wick might unravel.

The next stage isn't very well documented in pictures, but at this point I moved everything to a friend's house to use his electric drill. Your basic aim is to drill through all the layers of wicking and the tubing, then insert the dowel into the end of the tube and fix the screws into the dowel. This will hold the wicks tightly while ensuring they can't slide up and down the staff. After a couple of failed attempts with a cordless drill I moved onto a high-speed power drill with much more success. The wicking can stop a drillbit dead if it's not going fast enough, so persevere and you should get there just fine. Don't forget your eye protection!

Once you can look down the tube and see the end of the screws sticking into the tube, just back them out a little bit, insert the dowel and tighten the the screws up until they won't go any further into the dowel. If you want extra security you can repeat this process on the other side of the wick, but I didn't bother. Remember to check that all your screws are tight before performing! You wouldn't want a wick to fly off and hit somebody.

After repeating the process for each end, just rip the tape off and you're finished!

Step 7: Conclusion

If you've been following all the way through you should now be the owner of your very own home-made fire staff! Soaking the wicks in your chosen fuel for an hour or so before your first performance/practice will ensure that the fuel reaches all the way into the wick without being restricted by soot from the first few burns, and this should help them last longer. After you finish your burn, keep spinning the smouldering wicks until they stop smoking, then again until they are cool before soaking them in fuel again and letting them dry out in a well-ventilated area. Do not extinguish smouldering wicks in fuel.

I hope you enjoyed my first Instructable. Enjoy spinning responsibly! :-)
I know this is an old instructable, but since I made my own staff a couple years back, I feel I need to chime in on a couple points.<br><br>I never pre-drilled pilot holes for the screws. If you go to the hardware store and look for screws called &quot;self-piercing sheet metal screws&quot; you will find screws that are made for piercing thin walled metal, like the tubing on this staff. The tip of the screw is very sharp and hardened for this. You just line up the screw, work it through the wick slowly, and when it gets to the metal, press harder on the drill with a steady hand and in a few seconds it will pierce the wall giving just about the firmest grip you can imagine. On my staff, the screws look countersunk.<br><br>The second point is how in this instructable the wick is back about half an inch from the end of the tubing. DO NOT DO THIS. The staff will get away from you when you practice and hit stuff/people/you. You don't want a fast moving hard/sharp/hot edge hitting things/friends/your-hand-on-a-cold-day. If you take the wick all the way to the edge, it will soften things up a lot and give a better visual appearance.
I would say keep them flush for anything that you can pass on the inner planes, but for big staffs, an extra half inch of pipe and wood core will keep your wick from fraying out. <br> <br>On baton sized staffs, it's worth covering the end in wick, then rolling it around the tube. Just make sure to round out the edges and maybe fill in with White Glue or other heat proof glue to keep the metal from catching the kevlar. Of course you'll want practice covers to protect the wicks then.
<p>Hey so I also noticed that a lot of the professionally made fire staves have the ends covered in wick. I feel like it makes them look a little bit nicer and I was wondering if you could give some more insight on how to actually do that? </p>
Self-drilling screws: good point, I discovered them a little while back :-) This staff was mostly made out of what I had lying around.<br><br>You're quite right about the ends - I wasn't quite as precise as I could have been, and they will get hot. In practice, I haven't found it a problem, as:<br><br>a) nobody wants to get anywhere near you while it's on fire, and<br>b) when (not if) you hit yourself in the face with it, the metal bit in the middle is the least of your worries :-) It's almost always spinning such that the bit that hits you is the broad bit of the wick, and the energy of a couple of kilos of staff doing 50-100rpm is more than enough to give you a solid belt anyway!
About no one wanting to get near you... <br> <br>I'm a fire knife performer and have several occasions every month where people walk up way too close that I've told them to step back, or even tried touching the fire! one guy once even ran and fell next to my feet while I was spinning! <br> <br>When you perform on a daily basis for crowds, stuff can happen. You have to remember that some (most) people are idiots and don't understand that fire dancing is dangerous!
I recently clipped myself above the lip with a borrowed staff, practising. It was a dumb move - I was just passing from a back spin to a front, lost control of my planes, whatever.<br><br>Then I bled all over the place for an hour. Now I have a new facial scar.<br><br>It was probably only a mistake and a hit I'd take once every couple of years, but if the metal pokes out beyond the wick, it gets jagged over time as the staff's owner drops it practising and bashes it's ends up on the pavement.<br><br>Trust me. Bring the wick out slightly beyond the metal. Don't leave the metal hanging out the end. The next less-competent friend you let play with your staff will thank you.
<p>how much wick do you need on each end?</p>
<p>I know this will be a VERY late reply but i guess for future reference, i have used 3 feet (1 meter) of a tie down belt to mine ( so 6 feet in total for both ends). I'm new to fire staff/ contact staff but it seems a reasonable size to add</p>
<p>can you use bamboo with grip tape ?</p>
Can I replace wooden dowel with something like metal dowel ?
Hello, <br> <br>Thats an awesome step by step DIY and one of the best I have seen on this product. <br> <br>By the way , I also use kerosene as fire fuel and I am just wondering, how often does the wick need to be changed? Actually I have used mine for 10 years and have not changed them but now i am noticing some frays on the edges. <br> <br>Do i need to just cut the loose ends and maintain them with glue or does it eventually need to be replaced all together? <br> <br>thanks in advance!
is there a a ratio on of how much wick material goes in to burn time? how long does this burn for?
Apologies for the long delay in replying, I don't sign in here much!<br><br>Burn time is about 10-15 minutes. Doesn't sound like long but the pain is usually setting in by then ;-) (and everyone else has refuelled at least once)<br><br>You could probably work out a formula for it - the exposed area dictates how much flame you get at any one time and the amount of wick beneath it how much fuel it absorbs. Probably easiest to do it experimentally with a bunch of different wick lengths.<br>
i only gety about 5-6 mins out of my burns, my wick is about 2in by 3 in and i get only 3-4 mins on pure colman campfire fuel, what do you use to get that laong of a burn <br> <br>
The poster is using Kerosene, which burns at a much slower rate, 5-6 is about right for White Gas. Which is way cleaner then kero, good choice <br> <br>
Doing some rough math, his wicks are 4&quot; long and more than 5&quot; across. There's your answer.
why dont you just measure to the centre point??
It's better to find the center by weight than by length because when you're spinning this 4 pound object, the only center is the weighted center. If it's spinning, you can visually see where the center actually is. Besides, when you're doing contact moves, you need to know exactly where the weighted center is located.
Actually You shouldnt do the grip until after the wicks are on because the center of gravity could very well change when putting the wicks on and in a staff you really need perfect balance :P
Simply because I didn't have a tape measure handy :-)
You forget that metal is a great conductor of heat, and a bit of tape on the handle isn't going to do a whole lot.
Aluminium is fine for the job of a fire staff. The tape is a grip and has nothing to do with stopping the heat from travelling to your hand
This is true, but in a fire staff, it's not the fire on metal that heats it up. It's the fuel vapor running back and forth in the tube randomly igniting which heats it up. Since the staff has the wooden dowels plugging the end, there is no ingnition of the vapors. I have both sectional, plugged, and an unplugged staff I use in performance. Also, since it is the fuel burning, not the wood, those plugs can last quite a long time. The tape really doesn't insulate you from the flame, nor is it meant to. All it is is a grip on an otherwise slick piee of aluminum. On my unplugged staff, I'm simply using gaffer's tape, and it has lasted eight years. Hope this clarifies things!
Steel is a heat sponge, besides that I don't know much more.
aluminum isn't a good conductor of heat steel copper or iron are but aluminum is a poor conductor of heat.
i beg to differ... aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. that's why they make heatsinks out of it. Copper is better, but aluminum is still great.
aluminum has a very low specific heat...therefore, it changes temperature very rapidly with its surroundings. That's why it is used as a heatsink because it can "extract" the heat from whatever it is applied to and dissipate it into the surrounding ambient air. Pick up a can of soda and it feels cold, even if the soda inside is warm. its because the aluminum draws the heat from your hand and makes it feel cold.
wow i got owned. lol.... it is a good conductor though, correct?
I am not entirely certain..I would presume that It is an <em>okay</em> conductor; however, because of its low specific heat, it quickly cools and would prevent one from getting burned. If you look at the periodic table, Al is on the &quot;staircase&quot; that separates the metals and the nonmetals.<br/>
true. from my experiance, aluminum is a good conductor, but how much is just subjective i guess (frome my experiance of course)
Aluminum is a decent enough conductor, In Australia our power cables are made from aluminium.<br /><br />
Heat Conductor, not electrical conductor. I made a staff, used 19 mm round&nbsp;extruded alluminium 1mm wall thickness tube with 100mm kevlar wicks and even after use I find that only around 250mm at each end actually gets hot.<br /><br />Wound cotton sash cord around alluminium for grip anyway.<br />Whole project cost me $50au<br />Kero $2.60au/L from a local servo (gas station)<br /><br />
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductivity<br>Thermal Conductivity usually tracks electrical conductivity very closely.
<span style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Courier New'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12px;" class="Apple-style-span">&nbsp;In my materials textbook I came across a table containing the conductivities of the top 4 most conductive metals: Silver, copper, gold, aluminum. &nbsp;<br /><br />The units are [(ohm-meters)^-1]<br />Silver &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 6.8 x 10^7<br />Copper &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 6.0 x 10^7<br />Gold &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;4.3 x 10^7<br />Aluminum &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;3.8 x 10^7<br /><br />So yes, aluminum is a great electrical conductor. &nbsp;My resource is &quot;Materials Science and Engineering; an Introduction&quot; seventh edition by William D. Callister, Jr. ISBN-13: 978-0-471-73696-7</span></span>
Guys just so you know were not concerned about electrical conductivity only the thermal properties. For this project aluminum is well suited in the way that it does not maintain heat, it quickly gives it to the immediately&nbsp; surrounding air in such a way that your hands do not singe.<br /> <br /> My apologies if that makes no sense i am tired. Cheers guys<br />
Yes, i know we are not concerned about the electrical conductivity.&nbsp; In the first place, i was asking about thermal.&nbsp; I believe i has good thermal conductivity, but as someone else put it, &quot;it has low specific heat, and therefore changes temperature quickly with its surroundings.&quot;
Not if its DUCT TAPE!!
actually, to make a rather good handle, take some rope wrap it around, a coil passing over every 3 or so inches, and wrap that in hockey tape, it works well, air is one of the best insulators. We use this method for the handles on axes, hammers and halligan bars at the fire department
Really good idea, señor fireman. Im gonna have to use that on my woodcutting axe and boffer weapons!
where do you buy the wicking?
I used Firetoys (http://www.firetoys.co.uk/juggling/fire_wick_fire_ropes.html) but any local juggling website should have some.
homeofpoi.com sells it, and they ship really fast.
You can balance tubes etc. really well by holding it out on the pointing finger of both hands and sliding the fingers in toward eachother. If one finger gets closer to the centre than the other friction increases and that finger slows down and so on untill you end up with it perfectly balanced. Most of the time.
dang, thats cool!
Nice 'ible.<br>I would recommend though that you put the screws in underneath the last layer of wicking. Thereby avoiding exposed metal. The wick hurts enough in itself when for one reason or other you hit yourself in the head... and believe me you will. If for no other reason than trying to avoid hitting someone else.<br><br>I can answer the Q about burntime approximately. A newly built kevlar wicked staff using 1m (appx 3') will burn happily burn for 10-15 minutes after being soaked for 5min (and subsequently spun to remove excess fuel). <br><br>Burn time decreases with use but I am still using the same wicking and after 30+ burns it still holds for 7min. (my rate of spinning is rather fast though)<br><br>Keep up the good work.
does anybody know how i could make a set of fire poi using the same kind of wick (width not important) as the staff above, im just wondering how i would make an attatchment point.<br />
I made one for a friend's birthday (no pics sorry) just coiled the wick up and used a cotter pin and a big washer, attached them to dog chains. their pretty cheap and easy to do (wick's the most expensive part)
&nbsp;Yup, you could make a pair of fire poi pretty simply with this same type of wick... &nbsp;in fact, I think that you could make a pair exactly like this staff, but cut off the end of it with the wicking attacked. &nbsp;Myeah, I'd just put an eyelet into one of the ends of wood and attatch it to a chain.
Use conduit or Square aluminium it would make it under &pound;10 <br />
If you cant be bothered or just cant find the materials you can go to a specialist<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://flamesngames.co.uk/">Online Circus - Juggling Store</a> and buy high quality <a rel="nofollow" href="http://flamesngames.co.uk/section/8/1/fire_staffs">Fire Staffs</a>, <a rel="nofollow" href="http://flamesngames.co.uk/section/53/1/fire_wicks">Kevlar fire wick</a>, and other <a rel="nofollow" href="http://flamesngames.co.uk/section/126/1/fire_equipment">fire juggling equipment</a> . I have been getting props from theses guy for a few years now and i would recommend there props to anyone! They also have good &amp; cheap shipping worldwide..<br/>

About This Instructable

145,727views

241favorites

Bio: Hi, I'm Nick. I like fire and electronics, but mostly electronics. Due to a severe joint condition I am a full-time Datahand user. Other ... More »
More by Stone:Fire Staff 
Add instructable to: