Picture of Fireball Shooter!
Make a flaming fireball shooter just like magicians use. Save $$ and MAKE your own! Awesome pyrotechnics effect! Safe to use indoors and out!

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Step 1: What You Need...

Picture of What You Need...
1. 3/8-1/2" aluminum or copper rod. I used aluminum and got it at Home Depot. Cut to 3"
2. 1/4 X 28 nut - I had one in my parts bin
3. 1/2" Heatshrink tubing
4. 1.5v Glo-plug - Theater Effects
5. Flash cotton and flash paper.
6. JB Weld
7. Small zip ties
8. SPST Momentary Switch - Radio Shack
9. Butt splice
10. AA Battery holder and battery

Step 2: Build the shooter body

Picture of Build the shooter body
Mix up the JB Weld and apply some to the rod and the nut and center the nut on the rod. Let it sit overnight to set. Thread the glo-plug into the nut. I used the heatshrink tubing just because it made the rod easier to handle plus it looks better.

Step 3: Build the controls

Picture of Build the controls
1. Cut the black end of the AA battery holder and strip the end. 2. Solder a short black wire to one end of the switch.
3. Solder the short end from the holder to the other end of the switch.
4. Hot glue the switch on the negative end of the AA battery holder.
5. Run the zip ties through the battery holder. I cut an additional hole so they would loop through.
6. Attach the holder to the assembled rod.
7. Trim the ends of the butt splice and if you got the right size, it should snap on the end of the glo-plug.
8. Trim the red (positive) wire from the battery holder and put it in the end of the butt splice. Use pliers to squeeze the end of the butt splice and make a solid contact with the red wire.
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gianni leake11 months ago

To Fkhalsa, i done it for 21.32 in English money which is only 35.81 in US Dollars, so if your paying $65 then your buying it all from the wrong places, kipkay, i have watched nearly all your youtube videos, hopefully ill be like you in the future:DD keep up the great work:)))))

slynaugh2 years ago
Do you have to use a butt splice? If you don't, what do you have to do to not use it? (I've got all the stuff, except the butt splice, and I wanna know if I can just do it as is, or if I have to use the splice)
do not Use a 1/2 copper or aluminum rod 1/2 shrink tubing will not fit ps someone thine telll me what the right size is no jokes please!!!
I think he said he used 1/2" in the video. I used 7/16" brass, though I'd recommend going with a larger tube if you can, as the effect is much nicer.

Before I had my tube I used a plastic thing that some toothpicks came in, which was closer to 3/4" on one end, though it narrowed slightly towards the back. The difference I noticed was that the wider tube creates much larger, nicer looking fireballs, but doesn't shoot them as far. On the other hand, the smaller brass tube still makes pretty nice looking fireballs, shoots them farther, and is pretty much necessary if you intend on using this for magic tricks (the bigger tube would be too visible from behind your hand).

Overall, I think 1/2" is probably a pretty good size, and I'm pretty sure it is what is used in the ones you can buy in magic shops and online:
5/8" would probably also work pretty well. Just decide which size you need based on whether you want to be able to conceal it or not, and then based on what type of effect you'd like to produce (farther shooting or bigger fireballs).

As for the shrink wrap, that's really not necessary, it's just for looks. As you can see in the pictures above, the commercially produced ones prefer just the tube. This is probably because the brass blends with your skin better than black shrink tube, and they're normally made for magic tricks, so you want to keep them hidden.
If you want to use the shrink tubing anyways, keep this in mind: shrink tubing is normally measured at it's un-shrunk size, so you will need a piece that is larger than your tube by a fair amount, which you can then shrink down over it using a hair dryer or lighter.
It looks to me like (in the video) he happened to have a piece that was just large enough to slip snugly over his tube, and therefore didn't need to be shrunk, but it's more likely that a piece of the same diameter will not fit, and therefore you'd do better by shrinking a large one down. Keep in mind also that it will shrink slightly in length too, so cut it a little long at first.
1/2 outside diameter or inside
I have no idea what he used (I don't think he mentions it that accurately). I used 7/16" OD, but once again, the size isn't precisely important. Just choose your size depending on what sort of effect you want:
larger = less distance, larger fireballs (and more cotton and paper needed)
smaller = shoots farther, smaller fireballs, easier to conceal.

To be specific, I used a thin walled tube, so the ID was only 1/16" smaller than the OD. However based on my experience I'd recommend using a larger tube than i used - at least 1/2" ID in my opinion.

One other fact to consider: at some point, you will get an inverse effect with a smaller tube - it will not shoot farther. This is because at some point, if the tube is too small, you can only use very little flash cotton, or else you'll just shoot the paper out without it igniting. And of course with less flash cotton, it won't shoot as far. That's the advantage of a particularly wide tube (think 5/8") - the large area lets you still use a lot of flash cotton while still igniting the paper, and using more cotton will shoot it farther, so it's generally a more optimum configuration, barring any size/concealment issues.

I noticed this effect after using a pen tube to shoot fireballs - it won't shoot as far because anything more than a teeny amount of flash cotton will just shoot the paper out un-ignited.On the other hand, a pen tube loaded with flash cotton is great for shooting other stuff out :) - it's really powerful!

Sorry about going on and on. I try to make sure I answer the question in the first line before I go on and on about other stuff I've noticed, so you can ignore the rest if you like.
Majafero6 years ago
i just love asking this question........ how much does this cost???
As of March 2011:
(even though this is an old question, I'm posting it in case anyone still wants to know the answer now)
Just go through and add up the things you don't already have:
Tube - $10
Nut - $5
Glo Plug - $4-5
Switch - $4-5
Battery Holder $1
Wire Ties (you could use a lot of other things) - $5
Butt Splice (optional if you just solder it) - $4
Heat shrink (kinda optional) - $4

JB Weld - $4
Soldering Iron Kit - $7

Flash Paper (2"x3" 20 pcs) - $4
Flash Cotton - $10
AA Battery - $2

Min Cost (if you already own the tools and consumables, skip the optionals, and find a nut laying around) - $19
Max Cost - $65
fkhalsa fkhalsa4 years ago
Oops, forgot Hack Saw for the tools section. Add $10 for that if you don't have one. That makes the max cost $75.
you are wrong it cost10-20 bucks
Notice I put a max and min cost. The min cost I could find was $19, but if you already have the tube, or are able to find some of the other parts for cheaper, it could be as low as $9. If you look through the list you can see the justification for the price. Maybe you found something for cheaper than I could, or already had several of the parts?
do u know what size nut the fox Glow Plug, Standard Long, 1.5V needs?
It's a 1/4" by 32, which is pretty much impossible to find (I tried). Your best bet would probably be an online specialty hardware store.

I ended up taking a piece of 1/4" plywood, drilling a hole in it, and then threading the glow plug in to make threads. I then fitted this into the end of the tube, slightly recessed, and soldered the washer that came with the glow plug onto the end, filling all the gaps with solder. I was then able to solder the negative lead right onto the end of the tube, and then thread the glow plug through the washer and solder (making contact), right into the plywood.

Sorry about the quality of the pic, though I think you can see the basic idea. You of course can't see the plywood because it's under the solder.

This is of course just what I did. If you can find a nut that would be much easier, but I got impatient and just kinda made it up.
thank you soooooo much
Your welcome!
Mgillila256 years ago
Yea I don't know if you knew, but they have the EXACT same thing in Makezine. If you thought it up by your-self, Nice... But if not... Give make a little credit. thanks.
Kipkay (author)  Mgillila256 years ago
LOL! Did you even watch the video?
i have the tube u said on the video but the shrink tubing cant fit what size did u use please reply kipkay thank you
Lol, I didn't sorry about that. My bad. That's a little ironic...
LOL: lol.
lol incase you didnt notice he works for MAKE
kipkay if u see this please tell what size of tube u exactly used!
thebboy6 years ago
um, Kipkay, this is the funky thing with mine. We built it and it works alright, but the switch DISCONNECTS the circuit when it's pushed. Other than that it works fine. Do the switchs have a negative and positive side?
fkhalsa thebboy4 years ago
There are two kinds of momentary switches: N.C and N.O.
When you buy it you want to look for N.O. (normally open), not what you have: N.C. (normally closed).
Normally open means the circuit is open until you press the switch, then it closes the circuit.
Normally closed means the circuit is closed until you press the switch, then it opens the circuit.
An open circuit is disconnected.
No switches don't have a positive and negative side, so it dosent matter how its attached. There may be some switches with positive and negative, but I havent seen any yet so I doubt it.
i wonder what happened
hmmm you might have the type of switch that turns off when you push it, and turns on when its not pushed. Thats really all I can think of right now unless one of your connections isn't on properly.
probably, i don't know. i sorta know about electrical stuff, but not enough. it all works, just the switch's reversed
you could also have a short in the wiring. if the wires are touching someplace they're not supposed to, then pushing the switch could just be diverting the electricity back to the batter, and "turning it off"
no, the wires are all fine. i think i just have a different kind of switch
Yeah, I think you have a wrong type of switch, usually they connect the circuit when pressed but this seems that you have you one those bit rarer ones that disconnect when pressed, try to find a another kind of push switch and try again
okay, thanks
Pierce 934 years ago
If I were to build a near-exact replica of this fireball shooter, would I also be able to ignite small model rocket engines with this?
1. NOT a good idea. Not so close to your hands.
2. Most model rocket engines i've seen have a narrow hole that an igniter needs to be stuck into. The end is just a ceramic cap. So your glo-plug would never actually make contact with the propellant, which is what is needed for it to ignite.

You Could make something like this, but wired to a model rocket igniter instead of a glo plug, but once again, only try that if you don't care too much about having hands. Seriously.

If you are thinking of trying to get the flash paper fireball to shoot and ignite the engine, the hole in the ceramic cap is too small, so it is VERY unlikely you'd actually get a flame to contact the propellant. The engines are designed to ignite only in very specific circumstances, almost to the point where pretty much only the provided igniters would work. I actually think in most cases open flame won't even do it.
PyroTechno4 years ago
could i use a 1.5 glo-plug from nitro rc cars?
Yes. The Fox 1.5V glo-plug is about $4, and I think thats the exact one he's using. I actually don't think they make glo-plugs for much else. They just happen to be convenient for stuff like this.
glassgiant4 years ago
Awesome tutorial, thanks.  I made one concealable with a tilt switch for a friend's Xmas present!

pyro=fire4 years ago
how do u hold the fire ball in your hand? im also shppen for the stuf now
pretty cool i used fire cracker stuff b/c i found no flach cotton lots of smoke did not work
imgeek13375 years ago
can you make a  glo plug from nichrome wire?
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