Instructables

.50 CAL Ammo Box Firework Controller Build

Picture of .50 CAL Ammo Box Firework Controller Build
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My version of systemf92s Fireworks Controller. 12 channels crammed into a .50 cal ammo box. I used speaker binding post instead of spring terminals. Most of the work was put into drilling the holes and soldering. The hole top right was unused but was going to be for a power jack to charge the battery but never got the part.

The panel is brushed 20g steel with a clear coat to prevent shorts.
PheonixZip2 months ago
I just built my version of this, worked great. I buy electrical ignitors from phantom fireworks.
Great pictures, but where's the documentation?
Rob K (author)  rick.leasure3 years ago
I actually decided whether or not to do documentation on the build and ended up just doing it as a slideshow. Pretty much it was exactly the same circuit diagram that systemf92s had, but i just crammed it all into a .50 cal ammo box.

Thanks for liking it,
ROB
demonxkid4 years ago
if you want a easy to make igniter that you can reuse just use a spring
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like it thanx
Padlock5 years ago
What did you use as an ignitor? I made some simple nichrome wire ignitors, but they were tedious to make.
Rob K (author)  Padlock5 years ago
I tried to use what system93f used with the steel wool and the match heads. That way did not work for me that well. Now I am using 2-3 strands from stranded core 18g copper wire wrapped around the fuse a few times. I don't have any nichrome wire, but I did try to make some nitrocellulose igniters with the steel wool. Guess I need to let them dry longer and use more black powder.
Something that also works is model rocket igniters. They are somewhat cheap, and you do not have to make them.
I bought a large bundle of florists wire - glows white and melts with 12v - wrapping it around fireworks fuses works surprisingly well, although homemade e-matches are more reliable.
systemf92 Rob K4 years ago
How is the 18g copper wire working out for you? Is it pretty reliable? I am currently trying to find something more reliable than the steel wool method.
Arirox4 years ago
Hey, I Relised That You Have The Leds With Your Switch Wired So When You Have It Off But The Key is Turned On The Lights Are Off When The Switch Is Off But When U Change From off To On It Turns On The Led And I Need Some Help Wireing Like That I Am Useing A 9v  Battery For My One And I Will Create A Instructable When I Get The Parts Tomorow But I Need To Know How To Wire That And Also I Saw This In System93f's Comments So I Had A Look Great Job Bro Just Get Back To Me Asap
can someone please write a list of things you have to buy for this i have the ammo box already(YES)
Rob K (author)  joekickass3455 years ago
Go to the link above in the description. I used the same parts that systemf92 used but i changed to speaker binding post instead of spring terminals and changed the type of key switch.
speedyzeek5 years ago
good job reminds me of mine i build about a month ago only difference is that mine is crammed into a 30 cal ammo box and i have a 12v 7.5 amp (20 hr) battery in it, but mine only does 4 channel but i have a delay timer in it so i can have delays from .01 secs all the way to about 48 mins
PyroMonger5 years ago
How did you get the LEDs to be lit only when the corresponding terminals are in use?
Rob K (author)  PyroMonger5 years ago
Only a little bit of current goes through the ignitor in the test position. The circuit is going through the ignitor and the green led. As for the arm position the LED is in parallel with the switch. Once the switch is pushed the ignitor gets the full current and burns out.
I get it now...thanks. I can\now proceed with building my own version
Rob K (author)  PyroMonger5 years ago
Try the schematic that systemf92( link above in discription) used. that is basically what I used. I just changed a few things so that I did not have to use so many wires