Fireworks Controller by systemf92
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This instructable is on a 12 channel fireworks controller that I built during the summer. It was a lot of fun to build, and is a blast (pardon the pun) to operate! I couldn't find a good quality instructable on building a complete fireworks controller like this one, so I decided to write my own.

DISCLAIMER:
The information contained herein is for the sole purpose of information and education. Build this project AT YOUR OWN RISK. I have NO responsibility whatsoever for any injury, death, legal issues, encounters with law enforcement, or damage to property of anyone operating or involved with using this fireworks controller. In no event will the author (Systemf92) be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from the use of, or in connection with the use of this firework ignition controller. Look up your local and state laws regarding pyrotechnics before starting this project and make your own smart decisions when it comes to using it.

Fireworks are dangerous, so watch what you are doing and don't do anything stupid with this. Be careful when handling explosives. Clear the area before launching the fireworks, check to make sure your battery is disconnected while wiring up the fireworks. Once again, build at your own risk.

Okay, now that that's over, on to the fun part!
 
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Step 1: Parts

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Here is the parts list. I bought most of the electronics from Jameco , but also bought things from Parts Express , Radioshack, and Michaels.

From Jameco Electronics
1- 12v Sealed Lead Acid Battery
1- SPST (Off-On) Keylock switch
1- SPDT (3 position On-Off-On) Toggle switch
24- LED mounting hardware
12- SPST ( Off-(On) Momentary) Pushbutton switches
12 - Red LEDs
12- Green LEDs
48 - 470 ohm Resistors
12- Alligator clip pairs (24 total)
2- battery clips
1- 1/4" fuse (there is no specification on the fuse for right now, the original fuse value had not worked and I am currently figuring out what amperage fuse to use. Sorry for the inconvenience. You can still build the controller, since it still works without a fuse. Use a short piece of wire to bypass the fuseholder for now.)

From Parts Express
6- Four conductor speaker terminal
Check out this page for different types of terminals. This controller's circuit is expandable, so it can have as many channels as you want it to have, so be creative!

From Michaels or any craft store
One 12 x 12 piece of wood panel - must be 1/8" thick - available at Michaels, possibly at hardware stores

Other Parts
> A case to put it all in -I got mine at a thrift shop for $5.00. It was used as a carrying case for an old VHS video camera.

> 12 short wood screws (that fit inside speaker terminal mounting holes but can still reach the wood panel below them)

> Also, you will need wire for connecting the panel components. I used 22AWG solid wire, but any wire from about 22-18AWG should work fine.

> You will also need long speaker wire or any insulated 2 conductor wire. How much depends on how much you can afford or how far away you want to be from the fireworks. Both Lowes and Home Depot sell some cheap wire in bulk and in spools. Wherever you buy it, buy it in bulk to save money. We're not looking for audio quality here. I used 18 gauge lamp wire, which I bought in a bulk spool and cut into smaller lengths.
Not every one of these parts has to be used, feel free to experiment or use different switches, buttons, terminals, etc. Make yours unique to suit your needs, you don't have to build yours like mine, but you can.
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microman171 says: May 4, 2009. 5:32 PM
Lots to read, so sorry if this has been said...

To figure out the fuse value the easy way, build a regular ignitor, and then put an ammeter (multimeter) in the circuit. Battery - - - (Meter) - - - Ignitor. Obviuosly you need to wire the return to negative, but the diagram shows to wire in series.

If the amps needed to make the nichrome (or steel wool) is say, 3 amps, you use a 3.5A fuse. Depends on what you can get.

I don't know why you would use a fuse here...? As long as your wiring and all parts are rated for higher amps (I reckon your wire is probably rated at about 10A).

Worst that can happen is you get a fire at the wool end... That's what you want anyway =)
microman171 says: May 4, 2009. 5:32 PM
Oh, and this is a great instructable!
systemf92 (author) says: May 4, 2009. 7:17 PM
Okay, thank you, this is simpler than I had anticipated! As soon as I replace my broken multimeter I'll get to it. And, you're right. After building this I realized that there was no reason to have the fuse in the circuit considering it's only 12v and not too much power. Next time I won't complicate things. I had planned to just take it off of the parts list and instructions, but figured that that would confuse people when they saw it in the pictures.
cmazzei says: Jun 30, 2011. 9:34 PM
I work at Radio Shack I put together a parts list for everyone :-)
2300945 - 12v Sealed Lead Acid Battery
2750601 - Safety Toggle (we don't carry keylock switches)
2751533 - 3 Position Toggle Switch
2760079 - LED Mounting Hardware
2751547 - SPST Momentary Push-button Switches (We have a wide array. These were the most cost effective ones at my store.)
2740622 - Four Conductor Speaker Terminal
2701545 - Alligator Clips (Again, we carry many different packs and sizes)
6403058 - Battery Clips (Insulated Female Spade Connector)
2781221 - 22 Gauge Wire (Solid, Three spools: Red, Black, Green)
2700364 - Panel-Mount Fuse Holder (1 1/4" x 1/4")
2760022 - Green LED
2760041 - Red LED
2711115 - 470-Ohm Resistors
2711111 - 220-Ohm Resistors

*Note* We do not carry the exact same LEDs that systemf92 used. I spent some time doing the calculations. I used duncant20196's updated schematic and kept in mind systemf92's safety precaution with running the LEDs at a lower amperage. The 220-Ohm and 470-Ohm resistors would be paired up. Let me know what you think!!
airsoftdominator999 says: Jul 1, 2011. 10:40 PM
What's the price? i want to do this project but i am on a pretty tight budget. i would also be willing to downsize on the number of channels.
cmazzei says: Jul 2, 2011. 7:29 AM
I believe that list ran about $135. If I had planned ahead I would have ordered the stuff direct from East Asia for a third of the cost but I didn't stumble across this until a couple days ago. If you use FourSquare on your phone you can get 20% off of your purchase with your first check-in.
mmike1 says: Jul 3, 2011. 10:11 PM
Hi I love Radio Shack but the employees at our local store are not nearly as technology inclined as you are. Could you transfer to the Katy, TX store plz.
cmazzei says: Jul 4, 2011. 2:55 AM
Haha well tell them they better get on point...our headquarters are in Texas!
hhhdrb says: Jul 10, 2011. 4:18 PM
wich ohm gets linked to led does it matter 470 0r 220
cmazzei says: Jul 11, 2011. 4:08 PM
I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter but I hooked the 470's to the LEDs. Resistors can be linked in series in any order. The total resistance of each series is just the sum of each resistor.
pdionne says: May 3, 2012. 2:31 AM
That would be fine as long as you don't try to shoot more than one cue at a time or you would have to determine the maximum number of cues you want to fire at a time.

IMHO you are not talking massive circuitry here, and since the purpose is to blow things up, I wouldn't even worry about fusing it. The most that is going to happen is to inadvertently launch more cues than intended, which is just going to make it a better show anyway, so why bother. If there were an electronic timing circuit, then I could see doing that, or if there was an on-board battery charger that could overheat and short out, but besides that I wouldn't worry about it.
systemf92 (author) says: Jun 24, 2012. 5:52 PM
Thank you!
Keltonthebeast says: May 14, 2013. 7:51 PM
If you need a battery charger this one should work:

http://www.monstercells.com/leadacidsmartcharger08afor12vleadacidbatterywith3stagesfloating.aspx
Keltonthebeast says: May 14, 2013. 7:25 PM
how do you charge the battery
adcurtin says: Feb 24, 2013. 6:26 PM
two things: I'd just use a 1k ohm resistor. Why waste time and money using 2 instead?

second, it is only 12v, but you are using a fair amount of current. an SLA battery can provide 10+ amps. Definitely worth having a fuse. I used some SLA batteries (a bit bigger than you use here) that were rated for 80ish amps output.
pyro_cat says: Feb 8, 2013. 9:31 AM
The test setting sends a low voltage current through the circuit to check continuity without supplying enough voltage to ignite the electric match.
livelycharlie says: Oct 20, 2012. 11:43 AM
Thanks sooo much im 13 years old and i manged to make this with ease thanks to you ill upload some photos of it later if I can.
Thanks again,
Charlie
dema12co says: Jun 30, 2010. 8:50 PM
Just looked at this and thinking of making my own, I saw you used two 470 Ohm resistors on the LEDs though, the Lite-on spec pages call out 2.6V and 30mA max, which would be a 330 Ohm max resistor. Was your LED circuit setting off your charges or was this just a mistake in the calcs?
systemf92 (author) says: Jul 1, 2010. 10:59 PM
Right, I decided to not run the LEDs at max output all of the time, so made the calculations based on them running at 20mA. Also, just to be safe and reduce the chance of there being enough power running through the ignitor. It was just a precautionary measure, and I do not know whether using 300 Ohm resistors would set off the charge or not.
DrNicker says: Aug 9, 2012. 8:29 AM
Why did you decide to use two 470 Ohm resistors in series on each side and not just a single 940 Ohm resistor? (or one close by to that value)
ovan der beek says: Jul 23, 2012. 9:19 AM
say it if i'm wrong but if you flick the arm switch there goes a current through the igniter?
Does this current ignite it?
samirsky says: Jul 14, 2012. 5:04 AM
Will standard (Estes) model rocket igniters light the fireworks?
yaly says: Jul 3, 2011. 10:11 AM
In picture no.6 what is the thing from radio-shack on the top left? is it a pair of wire cutters?
Adambowker98 says: Jul 4, 2012. 2:08 PM
Not sure... I got one in my soldering kit but have no idea what it is.
jtho346 says: Jun 25, 2012. 10:01 PM
I just made this by following your instructable this afternoon and was so disappointed when I got done. I was tired and my neck hurt from looking down soldering, so when i found that it didn't work, i was sad. I was just about to go to bed and try again tomorrow when i realized that i didn't put any test leads in the speaker terminals... turns out it works! awesome instructable! Thanks so much!
Adambowker98 says: Jun 24, 2012. 4:05 PM
Cool! You should enter the R/C Contest!
molyneaux says: Dec 8, 2010. 2:35 PM
can you send me a list of all the parts and where you get them
pdionne says: May 3, 2012. 2:16 AM
I bought all the parts I needed on ebay. I've got around $100 in leds, switches, battery holders, ribbon cable, and everything else. I also set mine up where the test feature will only use 3v. to check it and will use 12v. when it is going to activate the cues.
suckafish says: Dec 15, 2010. 9:31 PM
Try Radio Shack....... also http://www.alliedelec.com/ is a good place to try but if you don't live in the United States idk where to send you
ak47bobbarke says: Apr 18, 2010. 3:31 PM
 How do you make the actual igniter? and how do you attach it to the electric igniter?
systemf92 (author) says: May 4, 2010. 8:59 PM
Check out my other instructable designed to use with this one: Fireworks Igniter
Attach the controller to the igniters using two conductor speaker cable. This is described in step 5 of the above instructable, Using the igniters.
pittu says: Mar 9, 2011. 2:11 AM
how much can you ignit in series in a single channel.
systemf92 (author) says: Mar 27, 2011. 1:10 PM
I wouldn't recommend series ignition hookups because of the nature of series circuits: The first ignitor that burns up will most likely be the only one that will light. As soon as it burns up, the circuit breaks and none of the other ignitors on the circuit will continue to heat up.
pdionne says: May 3, 2012. 2:09 AM
I posted previously that I was going to use RJ-45 cables, but after checking pricing I decided to go with a 100' 25 pair cable between the controller and the first box at the distant end. Then, on the box at the distant end I'm going to split out the cable, using wires 1 thru 20 as the hot leads and 21 through 25 will be used to provide the ground. Wires 1 and 21 would control cue 1, wires 2 and 21 would control cue 2, wires 3 and 21 would control cue3 and so on. On the controller you would have a rotary switch where you would set it to control which cues you wanted to activate. Position 1 would control cues 1 through 20, position 2 would control 21 through 40 and so on till you get to position 6 of the switch where if selected would feed to a second rotary switch that would control cues 101 through 200. You could gang a whole bank of rotary switches and add an unlimited number of cues that could be controlled. When I have it finished I will post an instructable on making it. Sounds confusing, but really it isn't.
Mr.KC says: Jun 21, 2011. 6:04 AM
I built a 15 channel controller last year based on this design. It worked beautifully! However, this year it's not working. The lights light up but when I press the button, nothing happens. There's enough juice in the battery because if I bypass the controller and connect the lead to the battery, it works. I looked and I can't seem to find any loose connections. Any help?
pdionne says: May 3, 2012. 1:53 AM
Have you changed the battery? Also, if you are going to test the battery with a voltmeter, make sure you either load it down with a resistor in series with the battery or leave the battery in circuit and test it with the load applied. Sometimes batteries will test fine without a load, but when you put it under load it fails because the charge is not good enough to maintain the voltage under load.
the mechanical engineer says: Jun 26, 2011. 9:14 AM
using a voltmeter can help you determine your problem. just start at the output and work backwards until you find where your losing the voltage.
Aron313 says: Feb 29, 2012. 6:15 PM
WOW thats a nice board! Haha i use my cell phone to light fireworks! :D
pammi.roxz says: Dec 17, 2011. 5:53 AM
hey i wanna do this project...

what is the AIM of this project..?

and what is the USES from this...plz replay me as soon as possible..!


Damnn good project dear
Ebay says: Dec 16, 2009. 7:13 PM
Where can I get a case like yours?

Thanks
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