DISCLAIMER:
The information contained herein is for the sole purpose of information and education. Build this project AT YOUR OWN RISK. I have NO responsibility whatsoever for any injury, death, legal issues, encounters with law enforcement, or damage to property of anyone operating or involved with using this fireworks controller. In no event will the author (Systemf92) be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from the use of, or in connection with the use of this firework ignition controller. Look up your local and state laws regarding pyrotechnics before starting this project and make your own smart decisions when it comes to using it.
Fireworks are dangerous, so watch what you are doing and don't do anything stupid with this. Be careful when handling explosives. Clear the area before launching the fireworks, check to make sure your battery is disconnected while wiring up the fireworks. Once again, build at your own risk.
Okay, now that that's over, on to the fun part!
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts
From Jameco Electronics
1- 12v Sealed Lead Acid Battery
1- SPST (Off-On) Keylock switch
1- SPDT (3 position On-Off-On) Toggle switch
24- LED mounting hardware
12- SPST ( Off-(On) Momentary) Pushbutton switches
12 - Red LEDs
12- Green LEDs
48 - 470 ohm Resistors
12- Alligator clip pairs (24 total)
2- battery clips
1- 1/4" fuse (there is no specification on the fuse for right now, the original fuse value had not worked and I am currently figuring out what amperage fuse to use. Sorry for the inconvenience. You can still build the controller, since it still works without a fuse. Use a short piece of wire to bypass the fuseholder for now.)
From Parts Express
6- Four conductor speaker terminal
Check out this page for different types of terminals. This controller's circuit is expandable, so it can have as many channels as you want it to have, so be creative!
From Michaels or any craft store
One 12 x 12 piece of wood panel - must be 1/8" thick - available at Michaels, possibly at hardware stores
Other Parts
> A case to put it all in -I got mine at a thrift shop for $5.00. It was used as a carrying case for an old VHS video camera.
> 12 short wood screws (that fit inside speaker terminal mounting holes but can still reach the wood panel below them)
> Also, you will need wire for connecting the panel components. I used 22AWG solid wire, but any wire from about 22-18AWG should work fine.
> You will also need long speaker wire or any insulated 2 conductor wire. How much depends on how much you can afford or how far away you want to be from the fireworks. Both Lowes and Home Depot sell some cheap wire in bulk and in spools. Wherever you buy it, buy it in bulk to save money. We're not looking for audio quality here. I used 18 gauge lamp wire, which I bought in a bulk spool and cut into smaller lengths.
Not every one of these parts has to be used, feel free to experiment or use different switches, buttons, terminals, etc. Make yours unique to suit your needs, you don't have to build yours like mine, but you can.

















































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To figure out the fuse value the easy way, build a regular ignitor, and then put an ammeter (multimeter) in the circuit. Battery - - - (Meter) - - - Ignitor. Obviuosly you need to wire the return to negative, but the diagram shows to wire in series.
If the amps needed to make the nichrome (or steel wool) is say, 3 amps, you use a 3.5A fuse. Depends on what you can get.
I don't know why you would use a fuse here...? As long as your wiring and all parts are rated for higher amps (I reckon your wire is probably rated at about 10A).
Worst that can happen is you get a fire at the wool end... That's what you want anyway =)
2300945 - 12v Sealed Lead Acid Battery
2750601 - Safety Toggle (we don't carry keylock switches)
2751533 - 3 Position Toggle Switch
2760079 - LED Mounting Hardware
2751547 - SPST Momentary Push-button Switches (We have a wide array. These were the most cost effective ones at my store.)
2740622 - Four Conductor Speaker Terminal
2701545 - Alligator Clips (Again, we carry many different packs and sizes)
6403058 - Battery Clips (Insulated Female Spade Connector)
2781221 - 22 Gauge Wire (Solid, Three spools: Red, Black, Green)
2700364 - Panel-Mount Fuse Holder (1 1/4" x 1/4")
2760022 - Green LED
2760041 - Red LED
2711115 - 470-Ohm Resistors
2711111 - 220-Ohm Resistors
*Note* We do not carry the exact same LEDs that systemf92 used. I spent some time doing the calculations. I used duncant20196's updated schematic and kept in mind systemf92's safety precaution with running the LEDs at a lower amperage. The 220-Ohm and 470-Ohm resistors would be paired up. Let me know what you think!!
IMHO you are not talking massive circuitry here, and since the purpose is to blow things up, I wouldn't even worry about fusing it. The most that is going to happen is to inadvertently launch more cues than intended, which is just going to make it a better show anyway, so why bother. If there were an electronic timing circuit, then I could see doing that, or if there was an on-board battery charger that could overheat and short out, but besides that I wouldn't worry about it.
http://www.monstercells.com/leadacidsmartcharger08afor12vleadacidbatterywith3stagesfloating.aspx
second, it is only 12v, but you are using a fair amount of current. an SLA battery can provide 10+ amps. Definitely worth having a fuse. I used some SLA batteries (a bit bigger than you use here) that were rated for 80ish amps output.
Thanks again,
Charlie
Does this current ignite it?
Attach the controller to the igniters using two conductor speaker cable. This is described in step 5 of the above instructable, Using the igniters.
what is the AIM of this project..?
and what is the USES from this...plz replay me as soon as possible..!
Damnn good project dear
Thanks