Fireworks Controller

This instructable is on a 12 channel fireworks controller that I built during the summer. It was a lot of fun to build, and is a blast (pardon the pun) to operate! I couldn't find a good quality instructable on building a complete fireworks controller like this one, so I decided to write my own.

DISCLAIMER:
The information contained herein is for the sole purpose of information and education. Build this project AT YOUR OWN RISK. I have NO responsibility whatsoever for any injury, death, legal issues, encounters with law enforcement, or damage to property of anyone operating or involved with using this fireworks controller. In no event will the author (Systemf92) be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from the use of, or in connection with the use of this firework ignition controller. Look up your local and state laws regarding pyrotechnics before starting this project and make your own smart decisions when it comes to using it.

Fireworks are dangerous, so watch what you are doing and don't do anything stupid with this. Be careful when handling explosives. Clear the area before launching the fireworks, check to make sure your battery is disconnected while wiring up the fireworks. Once again, build at your own risk.

Okay, now that that's over, on to the fun part!

Step 1 Parts

Here is the parts list. I bought most of the electronics from Jameco , but also bought things from Parts Express , Radioshack, and Michaels.

From Jameco Electronics
1- 12v Sealed Lead Acid Battery
1- SPST (Off-On) Keylock switch
1- SPDT (3 position On-Off-On) Toggle switch
24- LED mounting hardware
12- SPST ( Off-(On) Momentary) Pushbutton switches
12 - Red LEDs
12- Green LEDs
48 - 470 ohm Resistors
12- Alligator clip pairs (24 total)
2- battery clips
1- 1/4" fuse (there is no specification on the fuse for right now, the original fuse value had not worked and I am currently figuring out what amperage fuse to use. Sorry for the inconvenience. You can still build the controller, since it still works without a fuse. Use a short piece of wire to bypass the fuseholder for now.)

From Parts Express
6- Four conductor speaker terminal
Check out this page for different types of terminals. This controller's circuit is expandable, so it can have as many channels as you want it to have, so be creative!

From Michaels or any craft store
One 12 x 12 piece of wood panel - must be 1/8" thick - available at Michaels, possibly at hardware stores

Other Parts
> A case to put it all in -I got mine at a thrift shop for $5.00. It was used as a carrying case for an old VHS video camera.

> 12 short wood screws (that fit inside speaker terminal mounting holes but can still reach the wood panel below them)

> Also, you will need wire for connecting the panel components. I used 22AWG solid wire, but any wire from about 22-18AWG should work fine.

> You will also need long speaker wire or any insulated 2 conductor wire. How much depends on how much you can afford or how far away you want to be from the fireworks. Both Lowes and Home Depot sell some cheap wire in bulk and in spools. Wherever you buy it, buy it in bulk to save money. We're not looking for audio quality here. I used 18 gauge lamp wire, which I bought in a bulk spool and cut into smaller lengths.
Not every one of these parts has to be used, feel free to experiment or use different switches, buttons, terminals, etc. Make yours unique to suit your needs, you don't have to build yours like mine, but you can.

Comments

[cmazzei]

I work at Radio Shack I put together a parts list for everyone :-)
2300945 - 12v Sealed Lead Acid Battery
2750601 - Safety Toggle (we don't carry keylock switches)
2751533 - 3 Position Toggle Switch
2760079 - LED Mounting Hardware
2751547 - SPST Momentary Push-button Switches (We have a wide array. These were the most cost effective ones at my store.)
2740622 - Four Conductor Speaker Terminal
2701545 - Alligator Clips (Again, we carry many different packs and sizes)
6403058 - Battery Clips (Insulated Female Spade Connector)
2781221 - 22 Gauge Wire (Solid, Three spools: Red, Black, Green)
2700364 - Panel-Mount Fuse Holder (1 1/4" x 1/4")
2760022 - Green LED
2760041 - Red LED
2711115 - 470-Ohm Resistors
2711111 - 220-Ohm Resistors

*Note* We do not carry the exact same LEDs that systemf92 used. I spent some time doing the calculations. I used duncant20196's updated schematic and kept in mind systemf92's safety precaution with running the LEDs at a lower amperage. The 220-Ohm and 470-Ohm resistors would be paired up. Let me know what you think!!

[airsoftdominator999]

What's the price? i want to do this project but i am on a pretty tight budget. i would also be willing to downsize on the number of channels.

[cmazzei]

I believe that list ran about $135. If I had planned ahead I would have ordered the stuff direct from East Asia for a third of the cost but I didn't stumble across this until a couple days ago. If you use FourSquare on your phone you can get 20% off of your purchase with your first check-in.

[mmike1]

Hi I love Radio Shack but the employees at our local store are not nearly as technology inclined as you are. Could you transfer to the Katy, TX store plz.

[cmazzei]

Haha well tell them they better get on point...our headquarters are in Texas!

[hhhdrb]

wich ohm gets linked to led does it matter 470 0r 220

[cmazzei]

I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter but I hooked the 470's to the LEDs. Resistors can be linked in series in any order. The total resistance of each series is just the sum of each resistor.

[microman171]

Lots to read, so sorry if this has been said...

To figure out the fuse value the easy way, build a regular ignitor, and then put an ammeter (multimeter) in the circuit. Battery - - - (Meter) - - - Ignitor. Obviuosly you need to wire the return to negative, but the diagram shows to wire in series.

If the amps needed to make the nichrome (or steel wool) is say, 3 amps, you use a 3.5A fuse. Depends on what you can get.

I don't know why you would use a fuse here...? As long as your wiring and all parts are rated for higher amps (I reckon your wire is probably rated at about 10A).

Worst that can happen is you get a fire at the wool end... That's what you want anyway =)

[pdionne]

That would be fine as long as you don't try to shoot more than one cue at a time or you would have to determine the maximum number of cues you want to fire at a time.

IMHO you are not talking massive circuitry here, and since the purpose is to blow things up, I wouldn't even worry about fusing it. The most that is going to happen is to inadvertently launch more cues than intended, which is just going to make it a better show anyway, so why bother. If there were an electronic timing circuit, then I could see doing that, or if there was an on-board battery charger that could overheat and short out, but besides that I wouldn't worry about it.

[systemf92]

Okay, thank you, this is simpler than I had anticipated! As soon as I replace my broken multimeter I'll get to it. And, you're right. After building this I realized that there was no reason to have the fuse in the circuit considering it's only 12v and not too much power. Next time I won't complicate things. I had planned to just take it off of the parts list and instructions, but figured that that would confuse people when they saw it in the pictures.

[microman171]

Oh, and this is a great instructable!

[molyneaux]

can you send me a list of all the parts and where you get them

[pdionne]

I bought all the parts I needed on ebay. I've got around $100 in leds, switches, battery holders, ribbon cable, and everything else. I also set mine up where the test feature will only use 3v. to check it and will use 12v. when it is going to activate the cues.

[suckafish]

Try Radio Shack....... also http://www.alliedelec.com/ is a good place to try but if you don't live in the United States idk where to send you

[ak47bobbarke]

 How do you make the actual igniter? and how do you attach it to the electric igniter?

[systemf92]

Check out my other instructable designed to use with this one: Fireworks Igniter
Attach the controller to the igniters using two conductor speaker cable. This is described in step 5 of the above instructable, Using the igniters.

[pittu]

how much can you ignit in series in a single channel.

[systemf92]

I wouldn't recommend series ignition hookups because of the nature of series circuits: The first ignitor that burns up will most likely be the only one that will light. As soon as it burns up, the circuit breaks and none of the other ignitors on the circuit will continue to heat up.

[pdionne]

I posted previously that I was going to use RJ-45 cables, but after checking pricing I decided to go with a 100' 25 pair cable between the controller and the first box at the distant end. Then, on the box at the distant end I'm going to split out the cable, using wires 1 thru 20 as the hot leads and 21 through 25 will be used to provide the ground. Wires 1 and 21 would control cue 1, wires 2 and 21 would control cue 2, wires 3 and 21 would control cue3 and so on. On the controller you would have a rotary switch where you would set it to control which cues you wanted to activate. Position 1 would control cues 1 through 20, position 2 would control 21 through 40 and so on till you get to position 6 of the switch where if selected would feed to a second rotary switch that would control cues 101 through 200. You could gang a whole bank of rotary switches and add an unlimited number of cues that could be controlled. When I have it finished I will post an instructable on making it. Sounds confusing, but really it isn't.

[Mr.KC]

I built a 15 channel controller last year based on this design. It worked beautifully! However, this year it's not working. The lights light up but when I press the button, nothing happens. There's enough juice in the battery because if I bypass the controller and connect the lead to the battery, it works. I looked and I can't seem to find any loose connections. Any help?

[pdionne]

Have you changed the battery? Also, if you are going to test the battery with a voltmeter, make sure you either load it down with a resistor in series with the battery or leave the battery in circuit and test it with the load applied. Sometimes batteries will test fine without a load, but when you put it under load it fails because the charge is not good enough to maintain the voltage under load.

[iloveairsoftstuff]

using a voltmeter can help you determine your problem. just start at the output and work backwards until you find where your losing the voltage.

[Aron313]

WOW thats a nice board! Haha i use my cell phone to light fireworks! :D

[pammi.roxz]

hey i wanna do this project...

what is the AIM of this project..?

and what is the USES from this...plz replay me as soon as possible..!


Damnn good project dear

[Ebay]

Where can I get a case like yours?

Thanks

[docsmith]

Check out Harbor Freight item no. 35777. Low cost, I'm putting one together now, and it looks really promising.

[Ebay]

Ok. Cool, Thanks

[Jason Bourne]

you could do what i did and use a Deal or No Deal case form a cheap game at Walmart

[systemf92]

I found mine at a resale shop, you might want to check around some places like that. Resale, goodwill, pawnshops, etc. I have heard that buying aluminum cases like these brand new is expensive. You might want to try looking for cases that are for specific products (i.e. www.amazon.com/dp/B001ECQOP8/ref=asc_df_B001ECQOP8988929) because they seem to be cheaper than general purpose aluminum flight cases. Of course, you'll have to cut out whatever random molding it might have inside. Hope this helps, and best of luck to you on choosing a case!

[airsoftjunke]

does it matter what side the resistor is on the LED? also, i would have thought the resistor would go on the positive side if it did matter.

[pastaking]

As a rule, I try to put all my resistors, diodes etc on the negative leg of components. It makes debugging a circuit so much easier.

[systemf92]

no, it does not matter what side of the LED the resistor is on.

[pastaking]

I. Want. One. Now.

[dceljo]

oohhh i know tha they are 470 ohm resistors from the colors and you mustnt answer me.

good project and i made one like this, thanks

[dceljo]

pls can you answer me what are the resistors are the resistors what you put in the 470ohm resistors because i dont know.

[DjProToJeeX]

Ya so we were lighting off fireworks with this with our permit. An Apparently this is considered a bomb detonation device and requires i think he said class 3 pyro license or a class 2. Ya so regardless it was taken and we all got 2,000$ tickets and our names taken for homeland security. This will most likely be classified as a destructive device since it was hooked up at the time they were correct. So basically get your class 3 license to do it. now i have to go to court and use the instructables said it was ok to make defense and didnt say it was illegal to make. also this may vary state to state. or depending what country i live in WI, USA They also told me without a class 3 old dynamite plungers are illegal unless the mechanism is disabled.. ALL IN ALL NOT FUN AND WASNT WORTH IT. but i tell you the thing worked so nice it was amazing. i did my own adjustments and had it setup to light off even more so mine was a about 2x the size. looked like a giant sound board. oh ya we also have 200 acres and they came on our property and still took it.

[rjogden]

I have a Type 54 ATF Display Fireworks Permit. We use electric firing systems routinely, including both wired and wireless units. I've never heard of a "class 3 pyro license". Is that a Wisconsin thing?

As with all pyro projects, you need to be aware of your state and local laws and regulations. You can hardly expect someone posting instructions on an internet list to research every law in every state, county and municipality in the world. Take some responsibility for your own actions!

BTW, this project is far cheaper to make than *anything* you can buy. That said, you could probably not use it for professional displays for the very simple reason that you would not be able to get insurance that would cover use of a home-made firing panel.

[Scottsfx]

California has 3 classes of pyrotechnic/special effects license (movie business) along with several other specific classes. I wasn't aware of any other states having a similar classification system. California is generally considered the hardest place to get a license. What you need to do (aside from getting an attorney) is review you states laws. Usually what you built would be considered a firing system and what you where firing would be considered the destructive devise. The firing system itself should not be illegal. It could be used to simply orchestrate and beautiful choreography of led lights for a show. Again your firing box doesn't contain any explosives or flammable liquids excetra. It seems to me if you permitted to fire fireworks and had only the fireworks within the permit then there should be no problem with firing them electronically. The electronic ignition of pyro is far safer than using fire and fuse. Seems to me the cops were over zealous and they don't have a case provided you've given the correct information and you had a legal right to posses and fire the explosive devices in your possesion.

[ingkiller]

what kind of fuse did you use?

[Andrew181]

Instead of a battery would a transformer work?

Transformer Specs:
120V AC to 12V DC 200mA