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Step 11Testing your wiring
After you have everything finished, connected, and soldered, it is a good idea to test each channel to make sure everything is wired right and there are no shorts.
Install a fuse in the fuseholder and attach the negative lead (that goes directly to the speaker terminals) to the negative connection on the battery and the positive lead (that goes to the fuseholder) to the positive connection on the battery.
To test my panel, I hooked up a short length of 2 conductor wire (2 ft or so) to the board, and on the other end just wrapped a strand of steel wool between the wires to use as a test. This way I could make sure the resistor values were correct for the LEDs (to not ignite the wire in test mode, but do so in armed mode) and that the steel wool burned up when the button was pressed.
Once you have verified that all LEDs operate properly and each channel successfully burns the steel wool in Armed mode only, disconnect the battery and flip the panel upside down. Cut off all excess LED lead sticking up past the solder connection on the jumpers and check to make sure there aren't any wires crossed that shouldn't be.
Find a good spot to place the board in the metal suitcase, or whatever you have decided to place the controller in, and make sure the battery is securely attached inside of the case.
The final step is to label it, and you're ready for some remote fireworks detonation action.
Install a fuse in the fuseholder and attach the negative lead (that goes directly to the speaker terminals) to the negative connection on the battery and the positive lead (that goes to the fuseholder) to the positive connection on the battery.
To test my panel, I hooked up a short length of 2 conductor wire (2 ft or so) to the board, and on the other end just wrapped a strand of steel wool between the wires to use as a test. This way I could make sure the resistor values were correct for the LEDs (to not ignite the wire in test mode, but do so in armed mode) and that the steel wool burned up when the button was pressed.
Once you have verified that all LEDs operate properly and each channel successfully burns the steel wool in Armed mode only, disconnect the battery and flip the panel upside down. Cut off all excess LED lead sticking up past the solder connection on the jumpers and check to make sure there aren't any wires crossed that shouldn't be.
Find a good spot to place the board in the metal suitcase, or whatever you have decided to place the controller in, and make sure the battery is securely attached inside of the case.
The final step is to label it, and you're ready for some remote fireworks detonation action.
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Aug 11, 2011. 4:31 AMingkiller
says:
what kind of fuse did you use?
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2
Jan 24, 2011. 1:58 PMmistercow.pnoy
says:
Do you think that it would be possible to use 1/4" audio jacks instead of the raw wire speaker connectors? Or maybe even RJ-45's to run multiple channels through 1 wire?
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2
Mar 2, 2011. 3:11 PMsystemf92 (author)
says:
I believe both of these options would be feasible.
Reply
Oct 19, 2010. 10:18 PMmacman808
says:
what exactly do the leds, do i thought red meant that chenal worked and green meant the button was pushed.
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