Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 6Mount the components
Start out with the speaker terminals, since they are the biggest thing and they need to be screwed in.
Grab your 12 screws and your screwdriver, then place each speaker terminal block in each of the six slots on the top of the wood. If one or two don't quite fit through the slot, swap them out with another one. Some of the speaker terminal soldering tabs were more spread out than others on mine, and they all ended up fitting in one slot or another.
Screw in each speaker terminal with two screws, then use a dremel cutoff disk to grind down the part of the screw that sticks out on the other side so it won't cut through the wires that will be on the back.
After that, I installed the key switch, toggle switch, and fuse holder. All of these components had nuts on the back that would secure them through the mounting holes. Tighten them in with pliers or a wrench, but be careful not to splinter the wood; they don't have to be excessively tight, just tight enough to not spin when you turn the key or flip the switch, etc.
The pushbutton switches had tabs on the sides that put pressure on the sides of the hole and held them in. Reinforce them with hot glue on the back to better secure them and keep them from spinning in place.
Next, install the LEDs. Gather all the LED mounts and pair the tops with the bottoms. The tops are the ones with four tabs that come down, and the parts that go on the back of the panel are the plain rings of plastic.
To mount the LEDs:
1. Slide the top part of the mount over the top of the LED until it snaps into place with the four tabs past the bottom of the LED (not the leads, just the light)
2. Mount the LED on the board. Depending on the size of the hole it will snap through and stay there.
3. Flip the board over
4. Take the bottom part of the mount (the ring without tabs), and slide it over the LED leads and onto the top part of the LED mount. Due to the thickness of the wood, it won't completely snap onto the top part of the mount, so put a good dab of hot glue over the whole thing.
You also might want to label the back of the panel to help you remember what's what when you wire it.
Now that you have all the components mounted, we can continue on to the electrical wiring.
Grab your 12 screws and your screwdriver, then place each speaker terminal block in each of the six slots on the top of the wood. If one or two don't quite fit through the slot, swap them out with another one. Some of the speaker terminal soldering tabs were more spread out than others on mine, and they all ended up fitting in one slot or another.
Screw in each speaker terminal with two screws, then use a dremel cutoff disk to grind down the part of the screw that sticks out on the other side so it won't cut through the wires that will be on the back.
After that, I installed the key switch, toggle switch, and fuse holder. All of these components had nuts on the back that would secure them through the mounting holes. Tighten them in with pliers or a wrench, but be careful not to splinter the wood; they don't have to be excessively tight, just tight enough to not spin when you turn the key or flip the switch, etc.
The pushbutton switches had tabs on the sides that put pressure on the sides of the hole and held them in. Reinforce them with hot glue on the back to better secure them and keep them from spinning in place.
Next, install the LEDs. Gather all the LED mounts and pair the tops with the bottoms. The tops are the ones with four tabs that come down, and the parts that go on the back of the panel are the plain rings of plastic.
To mount the LEDs:
1. Slide the top part of the mount over the top of the LED until it snaps into place with the four tabs past the bottom of the LED (not the leads, just the light)
2. Mount the LED on the board. Depending on the size of the hole it will snap through and stay there.
3. Flip the board over
4. Take the bottom part of the mount (the ring without tabs), and slide it over the LED leads and onto the top part of the LED mount. Due to the thickness of the wood, it won't completely snap onto the top part of the mount, so put a good dab of hot glue over the whole thing.
You also might want to label the back of the panel to help you remember what's what when you wire it.
Now that you have all the components mounted, we can continue on to the electrical wiring.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
As far as using blocking diodes, not sure they would be necessary as long as the box was wired where the positive and negative wires run through the switch. In doing so, each pair would be isolated until the switch was pushed. Only time there would be an issue would be if there was a short in the insulation between the pairs, but as long as proper safety procedures were followed, and the connections to the controller where the last cables connected, no one would be in the vicinity of the mortars to be injured.
but after you use the speaker wire for 1 ignition can you use it again for another? like is it re-use-able ?
thanks in advance