Fireworks Controller

Step 7 Wiring the components: part 1

Connecting the components is probably the most daunting task of building this fireworks controller, but don't be afraid! Just follow step by step and watch what you are doing. Everything you have to do is covered here. Also, print out the schematic to double check your wiring after each step. It also helps to know how to solder. Search "how to solder" for more info.

I wired the push button switches to the speaker terminals first, running wire from one side of the pushbutton switches to each of the corresponding speaker terminal tabs. See the schematic for details.

After wiring these, I connected the fuseholder to the keyswitch and the keyswitch to the middle pole of the toggle swtich.

Next, connect all of the negative tabs of the speaker terminals (the pair in the middle) to each other and then together to a single wire leading to the quick connect tab that will later attach to the battery.

See the photos for more detail (they are in order). There is also the schematic file that made the image below. It was made in TinyCad.

Comments

[yaly]

In picture no.6 what is the thing from radio-shack on the top left? is it a pair of wire cutters?

[dema12co]

Just looked at this and thinking of making my own, I saw you used two 470 Ohm resistors on the LEDs though, the Lite-on spec pages call out 2.6V and 30mA max, which would be a 330 Ohm max resistor. Was your LED circuit setting off your charges or was this just a mistake in the calcs?

[systemf92]

Right, I decided to not run the LEDs at max output all of the time, so made the calculations based on them running at 20mA. Also, just to be safe and reduce the chance of there being enough power running through the ignitor. It was just a precautionary measure, and I do not know whether using 300 Ohm resistors would set off the charge or not.

[programedfiles]

would it be possible to add a led for when its "armed" ? 

[systemf92]

Certainly, just add it in between the armed positive circuit and the negative return to the battery. Be sure to include the appropriate resistor in that circuit so as to not over-power the LED. Let me know if you would like me to make a schematic that includes this addition, if you do not understand.

[duncant20196]

You could remove R3 and R4 in the circuit and move the green LED and connect the cathodes together. That would save quite a bit of time and a little bit of money!

http://www.duncan-tempelmeyer.net/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/updated_instructable_led_resistor.jpg

[CameronC]

Would it not be easier to use bicolor LED's aswell?

[systemf92]

the single color LEDs i used were $0.11 each, and similar bi-color red/green are $0.29, so its not that much more, plus it would look neater. Good idea, I'll use it on my next version.

[KarlGroll]

This likely isn't going to save money, since you're probably gonna end up purchasing at least 100 resistors anyway. However, the image you've linked to is the equivalent circuit, in a simpler form, which could save a good chunk of time in assembly. Good catch.

[systemf92]

you're completely right. I have no idea why I didn't do that. this is my first project after all, as you can tell I still have lots more to learn. Thank you for pointing that out!

[gizmohalo]

hey ive been looking at this diagram and i cant figure out if the positive of the battery goes directly to the ignitor and the swicthes just controll the negative side

[duncant20196]

No problem!