This Instructable will show you how to design and build your own Ripstik that "sticks" out in a crowd. Since it looks like a fish, I call it the FISHSTICK.

The torsion bar is hidden underneath the board and is basically made of a door hinge combined with a very stiff blade of a saw. It took me quite some time to get the "stiffness" of the board right, but with this set-up, the feel of the board comes very close to that of an original Ripstik.
Wolfshade has posted an I'ble on how to build a Ripstik back in 2009. Check it out here because I learned some aspects of it.

The motivation for this project came from the fact that all Ripstiks look alike. Secondly, the design of them simply resembles of two canoe paddles connected by a rod. Can't this be improved?

Step 1: What do you need?

  • A plywood sheet to make the deck (90 cm x 35 cm x 0,9 cm)
  • A pair of casters and a pair of wheels (diameter 7,5 cm).
  • 2 Wooden blocks to connect the wheels (the base of the caster is 6x6 cm, hence the block must accomodate this size).
  • A door hinge: width 8 cm (open), length 9 cm.
  • A bolt (length 100 mm, M10) with a nut. This will replace the pin in the hinge.
  • 8 screws for the hinge (shorter than the thickness of the deck, in my case 9 mm)
  • 8 screws for the casters: a set of long ones (25mm) and a set of short ones (15 mm).
  • 1 bolt, a washer and Tee Nut.  (all based on M6). 
  • A blade of a saw, 14" x 1 3/4" X 0.062, and cut it to a length of 25 cm. I used one of BLU-MOL (works excellent). You don't have to use a saw, just as long it is a strong and elastic piece of metal. Some putty knifes are excellent alternatives.
  • 8 Dowel pins (6 mm diameter).
  • Masking tape and paint.
im making this board too, im jus having difficulty searching for the wedges and instead of the fish design im making it into a mix between an arrow n a bullet. well as for the torsion bar im gonna use the pipe n blade set up. im thinking instead of blades im gonna use steel rulers
<p>Great! Post it when you're done and I'll send you a patch! (help me remember though!).</p>
its done how do i send you the pics
please send to 0713364959.am from south africa.
<p>No need to do that! Just post a (short) Instructable or even a Slide show with some pictures and I'll send you a patch.</p>
<p>Nice, but is there a way you can sort of hide the torsion bar?</p>
<p>Could you put the plywood on an already existing ripstick?</p>
Yes, but it all depends on the bond you can achieve between the two layers.<br>I believe ripsticks are made of PE. I'm not sure if you can find a suitable glue for PE-wood.<br>If the deck of te dipstick is rough, you need to sand it first as well.<br><br>
<p>Even if I don't make it, its still cool. I never would have thought of that.</p>
<p>Where can I go to get appropriate casters? How can I tell that they will be sturdy, smooth, and sized correctly? What brand did you use here? What are there specs? Any problems with the ones you chose?</p><p>Any help appreciated! I am looking to make a caster board and am hoping to make it with about 100mm/100a inline wheels for speed and distance. I don't know where to start regarding the casters though. </p>
<p>Where did you get the casters. All the ones I saw have wheels atached or did you take those off.</p>
is there just one screw in the saw blade of two holding it down?
There is just one screw (actually bolt) in the front (connecting to the Tee Nut). <br>If your blade &quot;sits&quot; tightly in the rear block, you do not need a bolt in the rear end.
that appears to look like an orange sperm with feet
here are the pics: i don't know how to show them in a comment, so here is the link&nbsp;<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/wesleynance/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCK29jvLPlJCpygE&feat=directlink">https://picasaweb.google.com/wesleynance/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCK29jvLPlJCpygE&amp;feat=directlink</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;you can see how the waveboard castor is odd.
do you think yours is odd or the original one?
i think the original is odd, the angle the caster creates, is almost 45 degrees on its own.
by the way, where did you find that hinge? i cannot find it anywhere! i would happily go with your torsion bar- seems smoother that wolfsshade's, but i can't find that hinge! is it a gate hinge or something?
Those are fairly common hinges for doors or gates. Do you live near a good hardware store? They should have different kinds. <br>Just to be sure: you realise that it has been modified? (compare pictures of step 1 and 4).
quick question: i built this, but i used wolfsshade's torsion bar, and i cannot figure out the correct angle for the caster block. should it be steeper rather that less steep? i recently got a real waveboard, and the casters are very wierd on it. i'll post pics later, so you can see what i am talking about.
That' s great to hear. <br>I would recommend to stick as much as possible to the waveboard design (although I don't know what you mean with weird. Are they hooked or something).<br> <br>I have made a comment on Nov 30 (12:12 am). Please read item 3. It's partially about the angle. Then feel free to come back with more questions.
how does it ride? have you posted a video yet? i am building this 'ible for my science fair project.
Great to hear that you're building! <br>I haven't posted a video yet, but I'm planning to. Now the streets are either very wet or covered with snow.
what is the point of the tee nut? when you screw in the saw blade does it hold the screw in place?
Exactly, the Tee Nut holds the blade in place.<br>I have chosen for a Tee Nut as an ordinary screw IN the deck wouldn't be as strong.
how you cut it <br>
<ul> <li> Reciprocating saw. <li> Sand paper 80 grit <li> Sand paper 200 grit </ul>
The wide tail looks like it's easy to bite the ground, especially on those tight turns.
That's correct, but sometimes you have to compromise if you want to look different (better?).
Haha yes, it does look better, but it's really important to have room because of how the board rotates as you snake around. And I'd be worried that the glossy look won't last very long - painted wood vs. concrete.
It's not as bad as one might think, because the wheels are larger. Hence the board is slightly higher...<br>The varnish layers are the type used in parquet floors (so designed to withstand the wear from shoes). So far the only damage is underneath the board from laying around on a floor.
I'm gonna attempt to make one, but with griptape on the deck. 8)<br>
Post yours when you're done and I'll send you a patch! (help me remind!).
This reminds me of a television show that made constant reference to asking people if they enjoyed putting fish sticks in their mouths.<br><br>But all homonym related jokes aside, kudos to this new and (more functional?) design!
yum :9
south park? lol
That is seriously awesome. Do you mind sending me a link to where you got the casters and wheels. Do you think rollar blade weels would work. They are dirt cheap if you get them from goodwill. Just buy a pair of rollar blades for like 6 bucks and you got 8 wheels.
The wheels are from roller blades, so that will work. The casters, I bought in a local furniture store as some furniture, like cupboards, is mobile. Let me know if this helps, else I'll try to figure the brand out.
Thanks, that helps, if you dont mind my asking how much were they, I was looking here and some were like 15 bucks each.<br>http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?storeId=10151&amp;langId=-1&amp;catalogId=10051&amp;N=0&amp;newSearch=true&amp;Ntt=casters
15 buck is about right. Be careful when selecting wheels! <br>Use Google to look further or else, look at my I'ble without logging in as a member (you'll often get suggestions for casters. That' s the way sites work! ;-)
you will need very high quality wheels for a caster board. there is allot of twisting and ripping friction that will pull the wheels apart. i used some wheels off of roller blades from the listen center and withing five minuets the back wheel was gone.
Hey, could something like this be useful on say, the gray paint on the top surface? Or is there already enough grip from the paint?<br><br>http://tinyurl.com/26evo7f<br><br>I was just curious as to if the top was slippery or anything. Amazing instructable by the way, so simplistic but efficient!
When following your link, I get an error. Anything that enhances grip is good. The paint in itself, combined with sneakers provides a good grip although any hardcore &quot;Ripper&quot; will disagree that it is not enough...
That's where his link took me.
i'm gonna make this over thanksgiving or christmas break!<br>
Let me know if I can be of any help.<br>If you're finished, post it and I'll send you a patch.
how much did this cost for you? I have a really small funding system. Also, how does this work compared to a Ripstik? I have one now, but I think it's broken or something because it's really short and hard to turn. I think i'll cannibalize it for the torsion spring. *ripstik screams and jumps out window*. Or I'll use the saw blade.
If I count my hours it's way, way too expensive ! <br>Approximate figures: <br>Plywood &euro; 7 <br>caster blocks (2) &euro; 4 <br>Casters (2) &euro; 30 <br>Saw &euro; 8 <br>+ paint <br> <br>Although I'm not a very experienced &quot;ripper&quot; (just built the board for my son) I can see some differences and similarities: <br> <br>1. The torsion (stiffness) is very much like a ripstik. I have spent quite some time to get that right. <br> <br>2. As the wheels are larger (75 mm), the ride tends to be &quot;smoother&quot;. The texture of the road (roughness) seems to have less effect. <br> <br>3. Since the wheels are larger and I wanted to limit the height of the board, I have tilted the wheels slightly more than an ordinary rispstik . It seems that this makes the board a little bit less manoeuvrable, but more stable at higher speeds (it slightly favours going in a straight line). <br> <br>If you are able to disassemble the torsion bar you can find out what the problem is or how it can be fixed. Isn't there some forum on the Internet that deals with ripstik problems?

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