Introduction: FISHSTICK (Ripstik / Waveboard)


This Instructable will show you how to design and build your own Ripstik that "sticks" out in a crowd. Since it looks like a fish, I call it the FISHSTICK.

The torsion bar is hidden underneath the board and is basically made of a door hinge combined with a very stiff blade of a saw. It took me quite some time to get the "stiffness" of the board right, but with this set-up, the feel of the board comes very close to that of an original Ripstik.
Wolfshade has posted an I'ble on how to build a Ripstik back in 2009. Check it out here because I learned some aspects of it.

The motivation for this project came from the fact that all Ripstiks look alike. Secondly, the design of them simply resembles of two canoe paddles connected by a rod. Can't this be improved?


Step 1: What Do You Need?

  • A plywood sheet to make the deck (90 cm x 35 cm x 0,9 cm)
  • A pair of casters and a pair of wheels (diameter 7,5 cm).
  • 2 Wooden blocks to connect the wheels (the base of the caster is 6x6 cm, hence the block must accomodate this size).
  • A door hinge: width 8 cm (open), length 9 cm.
  • A bolt (length 100 mm, M10) with a nut. This will replace the pin in the hinge.
  • 8 screws for the hinge (shorter than the thickness of the deck, in my case 9 mm)
  • 8 screws for the casters: a set of long ones (25mm) and a set of short ones (15 mm).
  • 1 bolt, a washer and Tee Nut.  (all based on M6). 
  • A blade of a saw, 14" x 1 3/4" X 0.062, and cut it to a length of 25 cm. I used one of BLU-MOL (works excellent). You don't have to use a saw, just as long it is a strong and elastic piece of metal. Some putty knifes are excellent alternatives.
  • 8 Dowel pins (6 mm diameter).
  • Masking tape and paint.

Step 2: The Deck.


I copied the contour of a Ripstik on a large piece of paper just to get an idea of the basic dimensions (length, width of each panel, location of the feet and the wheels).
Then, more or less within these limits I started designing different shapes. As this is a fairly erratic process, I can't show you all the steps involved but this is the end result (picture 1).
Make sure that at the narrowest part, the deck is wide enough to "hide" the hinge underneath the deck.

First I transferred the design onto a cheap piece of plywood to get a feel of it. Then made some adjustments and transferred it to the final plywood sheet (picture 2).


The basic dimensions are:
Length: 85 cm
Max width: 25 cm (@ tail)
Min width: 9 cm (@ center)

Step 3: The Wheels.


Picture 1: The wheels need to be angled at approximately 30 to 40 degrees. Therefore you need two blocks that are cut at this angle (use a miter saw). I used two wooden legs of a chair as this gave me an additional conical shape, but you can use straight blocks just the same. The casters I use, require a 6 x 6 cm surface on the block.

Picture 2: Pre-drill the screw holes for the casters (smaller than the size of the screws).

Picture 3: Drill 6 mm holes for the wooden dowel pins to connect to the deck (1 cm deep). Make sure that the holes do not interfere with the screws of the casters. The holes shouldn't be closer to the edge of the block than 1 cm.

Picture 4: Add dowel centre pins to tag te deck. 

Picture 5: Ensure that the block is accurately alligned with the central axis of the deck. Then tag the deck and drill through it.  The location of the front block is 8cm from the tip of the board, the location of the rear block is is 56 cm from the tip.

Picture 6: Insert and glue the dowell pins in the block. Glue the blocks to the deck. Apply large force while the glue is curing.

Picture 7 & 8: Don't worry about the length, they will stick trough the deck and will be cut / sanded later. 

Picture 9: The distance between blocks is 48 cm.

Step 4: The Torsion Bar.


Picture 1 & 2: Disassemble the hinge and hammer out the pin and cap (compare to the picture in step 1). Reverse the hinge and insert the nut and bolt.

Picture 3, 4 & 5: The rear section of the blade (that acts like a torsion bar) has to be inserted in the rear caster block. Lay the blade on the small block that you will use later and draw a horizontal line. Cut parallel to the board, approximately 1 cm deep. Work accurately!

Picture 6: Cut the board in two (at 45 cm form the nose) and lay it on a large flat surface. Use a chisel to cut a trench so that the hinge rests flat on the deck when assembled.

Picture 7: Assemble the set up: blade and hinge. Mark the board where the eye of the blade is. Drill through the deck (6 mm). 

Picture 8 & 9: Turn the deck to the other side and drill a larger hole so that the Tee Nut rests flush to the deck (appr. 2 mm deep). Install the Tee Nut.

Picture 10: this is how the nut on the other side looks like.

Picture 11: Glue the block into place (make sure that no glue leaks into the Tee Nut.


Step 5: Finishing the Surface.

Picture 1: apply a layer of ground paint (in this case white) to both sides of the board and once this has dried, paint the bottom grey (2 layers).

Picture 2: Fill the Tee Nut with filler.

Picture 3 & 4: apply 2 layers of orange paint to the top.  Once this layer is really dry, apply a fishbone pattern (or whatever pattern) with masking tape. Make sure that you use a quality tape that does not damage the paint layers and press it hard against the board.

Picture 5 & 6: apply 2 layers of grey.  I have painted the grey layer at fairly low temperatures (10 C) so that the paint would not creep underneath the tape very easily (higher viscosity at lower temperatures). Once the second layer starts to "gel" carefully peel off the masking tape.

Finish with two layers of varnish.

Step 6: Assemble

Picture 1: lay the board on a flat surface and install the hinge with 8 screws. Make sure that the board remains properly aligned during the first screws.

Picture 2: once you have made sure that the saw blade fits the set-up, grind of its teeth. You won't need them anymore. Be carefull with selecting the length of the screw. If it is too long, you will press out the filler on the other side of the deck!!!!

Picture 3: install the casters and wheels. Be aware of the longer and shorter screws.

Step 7: Go !

Comments

author

how much did this cost? (I saw your pricing on the bottom of the page) Im from america, so in american dollars, if you know.

author

Try Google for the most recent conversion between Euro and Dollar...

author

im guessing youre from europe.

author
makeshiftmech (author)2014-03-15

im making this board too, im jus having difficulty searching for the wedges and instead of the fish design im making it into a mix between an arrow n a bullet. well as for the torsion bar im gonna use the pipe n blade set up. im thinking instead of blades im gonna use steel rulers

author

Great! Post it when you're done and I'll send you a patch! (help me remember though!).

author

its done how do i send you the pics

author

please send to 0713364959.am from south africa.

author

No need to do that! Just post a (short) Instructable or even a Slide show with some pictures and I'll send you a patch.

author
MakerBoysACE (author)2016-04-19

Nice, but is there a way you can sort of hide the torsion bar?

author
Dawesome1 (author)2016-01-19

Could you put the plywood on an already existing ripstick?

author
bertus52x11 (author)Dawesome12016-01-19

Yes, but it all depends on the bond you can achieve between the two layers.
I believe ripsticks are made of PE. I'm not sure if you can find a suitable glue for PE-wood.
If the deck of te dipstick is rough, you need to sand it first as well.

author
Dawesome1 (author)bertus52x112016-01-22

Even if I don't make it, its still cool. I never would have thought of that.

author

Where can I go to get appropriate casters? How can I tell that they will be sturdy, smooth, and sized correctly? What brand did you use here? What are there specs? Any problems with the ones you chose?

Any help appreciated! I am looking to make a caster board and am hoping to make it with about 100mm/100a inline wheels for speed and distance. I don't know where to start regarding the casters though.

author
999Robot (author)2014-07-26

Where did you get the casters. All the ones I saw have wheels atached or did you take those off.

author
c3ralki1l3r (author)2012-09-27

is there just one screw in the saw blade of two holding it down?

author
bertus52x11 (author)c3ralki1l3r2012-09-27

There is just one screw (actually bolt) in the front (connecting to the Tee Nut).
If your blade "sits" tightly in the rear block, you do not need a bolt in the rear end.

author
heat700 (author)2011-10-01

that appears to look like an orange sperm with feet

author
cyclops0000 (author)2011-02-27

here are the pics: i don't know how to show them in a comment, so here is the link https://picasaweb.google.com/wesleynance/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCK29jvLPlJCpygE&feat=directlink  you can see how the waveboard castor is odd.

author
bertus52x11 (author)cyclops00002011-02-27

do you think yours is odd or the original one?

author
cyclops0000 (author)bertus52x112011-03-10

i think the original is odd, the angle the caster creates, is almost 45 degrees on its own.

author
cyclops0000 (author)2011-02-27

by the way, where did you find that hinge? i cannot find it anywhere! i would happily go with your torsion bar- seems smoother that wolfsshade's, but i can't find that hinge! is it a gate hinge or something?

author
bertus52x11 (author)cyclops00002011-02-27

Those are fairly common hinges for doors or gates. Do you live near a good hardware store? They should have different kinds.
Just to be sure: you realise that it has been modified? (compare pictures of step 1 and 4).

author
cyclops0000 (author)2011-02-27

quick question: i built this, but i used wolfsshade's torsion bar, and i cannot figure out the correct angle for the caster block. should it be steeper rather that less steep? i recently got a real waveboard, and the casters are very wierd on it. i'll post pics later, so you can see what i am talking about.

author
bertus52x11 (author)cyclops00002011-02-27

That' s great to hear.
I would recommend to stick as much as possible to the waveboard design (although I don't know what you mean with weird. Are they hooked or something).

I have made a comment on Nov 30 (12:12 am). Please read item 3. It's partially about the angle. Then feel free to come back with more questions.

author
cyclops0000 (author)2011-02-01

how does it ride? have you posted a video yet? i am building this 'ible for my science fair project.

author
bertus52x11 (author)cyclops00002011-02-02

Great to hear that you're building!
I haven't posted a video yet, but I'm planning to. Now the streets are either very wet or covered with snow.

author
cyclops0000 (author)2011-02-01

what is the point of the tee nut? when you screw in the saw blade does it hold the screw in place?

author
bertus52x11 (author)cyclops00002011-02-02

Exactly, the Tee Nut holds the blade in place.
I have chosen for a Tee Nut as an ordinary screw IN the deck wouldn't be as strong.

author
ur momma (author)2011-01-09

how you cut it

author
bertus52x11 (author)ur momma2011-01-09
  • Reciprocating saw.
  • Sand paper 80 grit
  • Sand paper 200 grit
author
vader406 (author)2010-12-15

The wide tail looks like it's easy to bite the ground, especially on those tight turns.

author
bertus52x11 (author)vader4062010-12-15

That's correct, but sometimes you have to compromise if you want to look different (better?).

author
vader406 (author)bertus52x112010-12-15

Haha yes, it does look better, but it's really important to have room because of how the board rotates as you snake around. And I'd be worried that the glossy look won't last very long - painted wood vs. concrete.

author
bertus52x11 (author)vader4062010-12-15

It's not as bad as one might think, because the wheels are larger. Hence the board is slightly higher...
The varnish layers are the type used in parquet floors (so designed to withstand the wear from shoes). So far the only damage is underneath the board from laying around on a floor.

author
vader406 (author)bertus52x112010-12-22

I'm gonna attempt to make one, but with griptape on the deck. 8)

author
bertus52x11 (author)vader4062010-12-29

Post yours when you're done and I'll send you a patch! (help me remind!).

author
Justin Lam (author)2010-11-23

This reminds me of a television show that made constant reference to asking people if they enjoyed putting fish sticks in their mouths.

But all homonym related jokes aside, kudos to this new and (more functional?) design!

author
vader406 (author)Justin Lam2010-12-15

yum :9

author
zascecs (author)Justin Lam2010-11-25

south park? lol

author
imthatguy1125 (author)2010-11-23

That is seriously awesome. Do you mind sending me a link to where you got the casters and wheels. Do you think rollar blade weels would work. They are dirt cheap if you get them from goodwill. Just buy a pair of rollar blades for like 6 bucks and you got 8 wheels.

author

The wheels are from roller blades, so that will work. The casters, I bought in a local furniture store as some furniture, like cupboards, is mobile. Let me know if this helps, else I'll try to figure the brand out.

author

Thanks, that helps, if you dont mind my asking how much were they, I was looking here and some were like 15 bucks each.
http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=casters

author

15 buck is about right. Be careful when selecting wheels!
Use Google to look further or else, look at my I'ble without logging in as a member (you'll often get suggestions for casters. That' s the way sites work! ;-)

author
vader406 (author)bertus52x112010-12-15

^LOL

author

you will need very high quality wheels for a caster board. there is allot of twisting and ripping friction that will pull the wheels apart. i used some wheels off of roller blades from the listen center and withing five minuets the back wheel was gone.

author
PatentPending (author)2010-11-26

Hey, could something like this be useful on say, the gray paint on the top surface? Or is there already enough grip from the paint?

http://tinyurl.com/26evo7f

I was just curious as to if the top was slippery or anything. Amazing instructable by the way, so simplistic but efficient!

author

When following your link, I get an error. Anything that enhances grip is good. The paint in itself, combined with sneakers provides a good grip although any hardcore "Ripper" will disagree that it is not enough...

author
vader406 (author)bertus52x112010-12-15

That's where his link took me.

author
vader406 (author)bertus52x112010-12-15

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&expIds=17259,24472,25907,27147,27415,27642,27744&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=Anti+Skid+Grit&cp=14&qe=QW50aSBTa2lkIEdyaXQ&qesig=SN_B9UZ4MAi8nZwbCGYyTg&pkc=AFgZ2tl2Ras7i8JqJlQvG4D4qUxZ7syOaJCDnwRbHfeMYb4ortP-zpUEgGOuOO1cb1YZQ54o2OOR0UZ15OlPEXV-9c3cmV-DEA&qscrl=1&um=1&biw=1121&bih=828&ie=UTF-8&cid=12937228658931556428&ei=4O7vTOqZEMGAlAe6_qCcDQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFgQ8wIwAA#

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