Introduction: Fix Broken Plastic! Never Throw It Away Any More!

Picture of Fix Broken Plastic! Never Throw It Away Any More!

Introduction

If you're in a rush jump to the Soldering step, which will be enough for many cases.

Para meus colegas de língua portuguesa tem um vídeo tutorial no youtube.

Plastic is the material of the 21st century. After learning how to fix broken plastic I realized how plastic is everywhere. A huge number of day to day things that we use are made of different polymers that most people just throw away as they get broken... and they break all the time. I've turned myself into an addict of soldering plastic. I often take a soldering iron in my back pack and offer to fix people's plastic everywhere. It's impressive the number of things that are just discarded and that could still be useful:

  • glasses
  • chairs
  • buckets
  • containers
  • toys
  • refrigerator drawer
  • hair brushes
  • hangers
  • sandals
  • car parts
  • electronic cases
  • tupperware
  • badges
  • ...

The list is endless. So, let's learn how they can be welded!

I will show you one of various techniques I've seen to fix plastic. This is the most generic and will fit most cases. This will fix plastics that have some thickness. You won't be able to weld plastic bags or other flexible plastic.

To finish this introduction I would like to ask everyone to correct any misspelled or misused words. As I'm not a native English person I have made mistakes. Just make a comment and I will fix it. Thanks! And I must say that many people have already sent suggestions and corrections. Thank you very much!

For most cases you will only need:

  1. A soldering iron, those simple ones, used in electronics with tin solder
  2. A respirator or other way to avoid breathing plastic gases (a fan to blow fumes away is agood idea, especially if you can be outside)
  3. Optional: a flat tip for your iron

The optional flat tip will improve the results, but it's possible to do without it.

If your plastic is thin, missing a piece, needs to be sealed for liquid, or under tension, you may also need:

  1. Disposable plastic strips
  2. Staple or wire
  3. Instant glue, soldering arms or other way to keep parts in place that you are welding

Sometimes, when the plastic is too thin or you might have lost some piece or need to seal it for liquids or if the piece suffers big tensions you might need those items. I'll explain better in further steps.

Note: some plastic are already in a decomposition state, they break quite easily, almost crumbling by itself. Decomposition is more common to see in plastic exposed to sun and rain, but can happen to indoor plastic as well. In these cases the welding process won't work at all.

Step 1: Preparation 1: What Is the Best Iron and Tip?

Picture of Preparation 1: What Is the Best Iron and Tip?

Choose the main tool for the job

If you already have a soldering iron, just use it. A flat tip will be better. I'll talk more about it below.

There are many types of soldering irons and stations. Besides ordinary ones, which you just plug on electricity, you can choose one in which you can set the temperature. If the plastic reaches too high temperatures it can loose its original properties and get weaker, breaking easier. High temperatures applied on polymers also produces toxic smoke. See next step on toxicity.

Portable soldering irons are also good to use at work, caring on your bag or far from plugs. I love a gas iron I have and use to help many friends with it, fixing their plastic things.

Choosing or making the tip better

When choosing an iron to buy, try to find a relatively flat tip for it or one that can get flattened. Usually cheaper irons have easier removable tips that are just a metal stick. If you think about making your own tip, those will make your life easier. See the video I've put here showing how I make my flat tips for soldering plastic.

More advanced irons or soldering stations may require more elaborated DIY tips and might be worth to buy a new one. You can wait to see if you will get addicted to fixing plastic as me to spend money on it ;) although they are really cheap.

Instead of making a flat tip you can also think about flatten the one that came with the iron. I've done that in some. A few hammered and a file or grinder can do the job. It's not a problem if you reach the internal copper layer.

Step 2: Preparation 2: When Extra Material Is Needed

Picture of Preparation 2: When Extra Material Is Needed

Is your plastic too thin or have holes?

I can't give an exact measure, but when the plastic is too thin, like 0,5 mm (0,02 in) or even thicker ones, and the iron is too hot, it just make a hole in the plastic instead of weld it. In this cases you will need some spare plastic parts to add material to the original plastic.

I usually have this problem with broken tupperware, but have been able to fix them with extra plastic.

The best option is to take strips of a plastic of the same type of the one you will weld. You can identify your plastic type by the number printed on it inside 3 arrows, like shown in the image above or in this page.

Some suggestions to make plastic strips:

  • cut from thin plastic pieces, like shampoo bottles, pet bottles, ...
  • use plastic zip ties
  • use that plastic strip from below pet bottle lids

Step 3: Preparation 3: When Metal Can Guarantee the Fixing

Picture of Preparation 3: When Metal Can Guarantee the Fixing

Will your plastic suffer some tension after being welded?

In spite of having already done very strong plastic weldings, in some cases even a small permanent tension can break it again. It's hard to say exactly when it will happen.

I would say you can choose between:

  1. make the welding as strong as you can
  2. make it simple. If it break then make it again, stronger

In any case, to make the welding stronger you can use more plastic, as with the plastic strips suggested before, or you can insert some metal inside the plastic. Suggested metal parts may depend on the job to be done. I've already used staple (the one I use most), bent wire (on thicker parts) and small strips of metal sheet (in glasses arms). There was a time when common 1.5V batteries were covered with a metal sheet that you could cut with ordinary scissors. Surely aluminium cans can also be cut with common tools. Try to find the things you can find easier. For me the staples are the most accessible.

Step 4: Preparation 4: a Helping Hand

Picture of Preparation 4: a Helping Hand

Is it difficult to keep parts together?

If it's hard to hold the parts to be welded together you can try to use some soldering arms, just like in tin electronic soldering, or you can use instant glue to put them in place before soldering. In this case be careful with the soldering smoke in your eyes. If possible, use a mask on them too. I'll talk more about it in the next step.

Step 5: Preparation 5: Take Care of Yourself

Picture of Preparation 5: Take Care of Yourself

Toxicity

Many people will probably talk about the toxicity of the plastic and instant glue smokes. I'm not an expert on the subject but, from what I've read, even usual soldering like the one made with tin on electronics and also professional metal soldering smokes are all highly toxic. In all cases you should try to avoid breathing or get your face exposed to the smoke.

With tin soldering you should also be careful with your hands if you manipulate the tin without gloves: it contains lead.

Here are some suggestions to avoid the smoke:

  • Use a respirator
  • Do the job in a level above your head (smoke will go up)
  • Use any fan as an exhaust fan

After reading some comments made here, I suggest that, if you are concerned about the toxicity, and you should, mainly if you think you will do this often, choose an iron with settable temperature. As you see smoke burning from the plastic, reduce the temperature. Some polymers are more toxic than others and people advised me to be extra careful with PVC, which stands for Poly Vinyl Chloride, listed as carcinogen.

Alternatively to the settable temperature iron you can make a plug connected to a dimmer to reduce the iron power and temperature. I had the spare items necessary to make this at home, maybe you're also lucky :) (don't really know if it's called "dimmer" in English. We call it "dimmer" in Brazil. It is a potentiometer. That in the picture is from a ceiling fan).

You can search the internet for the SDS (formerly MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet) of the desired polymer. Some have the specification of the recommended respiration protection, like N95 Cartridge, for example. More details at Plasteek and Pgs070947 comments below.

If you have other suggestions, let me know ;)

Burns

Gloves can protect you from getting burned. Some irons reach temperatures near 600°C (1112°F).

Note on glasses:

I've already welded a couple of them. Be sure to protect the lenses. Remove them if you can. The heat can damage them permanently. Many lenses are made of polymers nowadays, which will melt with any accidental touch of the hot iron or even only with its proximity.

Step 6: Soldering (Finally!)

    This is the main step and in many cases can be the only one. Once you get used to it you will can do it very fast. I'm saying that because the big tutorial can intimidate some people, but the main process is very fast.

    The secret is to melt the plastic in the joint so that both melted parts get together, welding themselves. This is how I do it:

    1. insert the iron in the joint with its flat tip line crossing the joint
    2. push it forward a little bit, to form a small plastic mass along the joint
    3. do it again behind the last pushed part to make other mass beside the previous

    At the end you should have a nice weld bead, just like the one made in metal welding. Watch the video for a better understanding.

    Adding more plastic

    I usually add more plastic when the fixed parts are too thin or to complete some missing part. Sometimes they start to shrink and some holes appear during soldering. You can cover it with additional plastic, just like people do with tin on electronic soldering. I've embed a video here showing plastic addition.

    You can put a plastic strip over the piece to be fixed and weld them together with the iron coming from above the strip until it melts. You need to feel when the plastic below starts to melt. If it doesn't melt at all, then the soldering will be bad and the parts tend to separate after sometime. If you push it too much maybe you will open a new hole on the plastic.

    Remember the preparation about it: it is recommended that you use a similar polymer to improve the result.

    Adding metal

    As I've written: add a metal part can make the soldering stronger. I've already used it in buckets (people are never careful with them) and many other fixings.

    You need to put the metal, let's say a staple, crossing the soldering line and press it with the iron until it enters the plastic by melting it. After finishing you may want to add more plastic over it so the metal don't stay exposed.

    Remember to check the other side to see if the metal hasn't crossed the plastic. If it has you can cover the other side with plastic too.

    Sometimes the plastic is to thin and even inserting only a staple it can't get all inside the plastic. I recommend that you cover it with additional plastic (as written above) to avoid rust.

    Finishing

    After doing the weld bead you can try to make the surface smooth again by passing the iron over it. A flat tip will do this job better. The glass on the first picture has been finished this way and it has a staple inside it. After smoothing I have painted the front with a permanent marker.

    Testing

    It's a good idea to test the work after finishing. It's also a good idea to wait for it to cool down completely before testing. Try to make as much pressure or tension as you think it will suffer when used.

    Some plastic suffer great tensions, as plastic chairs. A good way to test them is to really use them in extreme situations, like putting all your weight on it, not letting your legs on the floor, and maybe also jumping a little bit over it. Just be prepared for a sudden break.

    Another conclusion I took from experimenting is that the final resistance will also depend on the polymer fixed. Some are just pretty stronger after soldering than others:

    • The drawer puller I've shown in some pictures has shown itself quite weak. A simple fall down from low altitude have broke it, so I had to remake the soldering about 4 times until it gets resistant enough with 8 pieces of metal inserted.
    • A PET bottle cap I've cut in half just to solder and test has shown itself really strong. I couldn't break it again with all my arms power (ok, I'm not that strong, but also not that weak guy)
    • The PVC tube I've used in this video have also become really strong after fixed, even doing hard tests on it

    What if it breaks on the test? Well, do it again, but now stronger! Add more metal, add more plastic, melt it deeper and so on.

    Again, sorry for any misused word. Tell me about any mistake or strange phrase written here, please. I'm not a native English, so much probably there are better ways to write many things here.

    If you have come so far and liked this tutorial, please vote for it in the contests it's competing. Just click on the VOTE flag on the top right of the page. Thank you!

    Comments

    meraki made it! (author)2017-10-16

    Thanks so much for the excellent idea.

    I welded this box cover (about 1 mm thick) using a flat-tipped 15W soldering iron. And cleaned the tip easily using a damp sponge.

    meraki (author)meraki2017-10-16

    I also voted it for the plastics contest.

    cartola (author)meraki2017-10-16

    Thank you!

    cartola (author)meraki2017-10-16

    Great job! Thanks for sharing with us!

    heinzdrei (author)2017-09-26

    This is a fantastic instructable, well explained and very inspiring: While I take a lot of pride into repairing things rather than throwing them away, up to now this often involved designing and 3d-printing some replacement part -- which may be better than throwing away an electric hair cutter, but still produces even more plastic waste. I will definitely take this as an inspiration in the future to decide responsibly on how I fix things! Thanks a lot! Voted :)

    BTW in the past I sometimes used wire from paper clips for reinforcement, made it really hot with a blow torch, then inserted it into the broken plastic piece on both sides, melting away just a hole large enough to insert the cooled down paper clip -- then I glued the parts together. This can sometimes be a good solution for very small, intricate parts where you maybe don't want to weld.

    cartola (author)heinzdrei2017-10-04

    Thank you Heinsdrei for the nice message with experiences and ideas! As I don't have a 3D printer or easy access to one then I just try to fix plastic :) BTW, I've already seen 3D printed plastic been welded by friction. You put a piece of the 3D plastic stripe on a dremel and rotate it pressing the join you want to weld. The friction will heat it and the soldering will get really strong from what I've seen in some videos.

    Bests!

    cartola (author)heinzdrei2017-09-26

    Thank you for this valuable comment Heinzdrei! It motivates me and there's also the experience exchange. As you mentioned 3d-printing, people also use friction with printed plastic. I guess you might like this video about it:

    Around here people use wire a lot to fix broken plastic chair legs. They usually make a hole in each side and just tie the wire. I still miss the opportunity to try to fix one of these with welding. I still don't see a case where I would prefer not to weld, but surely thank you for the idea!

    leshemeli (author)2017-10-01

    great!

    cartola (author)leshemeli2017-10-02

    Tks!

    pookiesmum (author)2017-10-01

    Love your post. Wish I had known about it sooner. I've thrown away lots of toys that I thought could not be mended. I am also impressed by your use of the English language.

    cartola made it! (author)pookiesmum2017-10-01

    Thank you! I had already fixed toys too, here a picture of a Hulk that
    had the arm articulation broken. I had to disassemble the toy, but it
    was easy to do that. About the English, well, it has already been
    corrected by many fellows here :)

    joyce.augustson (author)2017-09-29

    This is a step further, or rather steps, than I have ever done. This is great. I will be brave enough to attempt more complicated repairs.

    cartola (author)joyce.augustson2017-09-30

    Thank you for your message Joyce!

    Mimikry (author)2017-09-29

    very good idea!

    cartola (author)Mimikry2017-09-30

    Well, it's not my idea, just my experience sharing, so we agree on that! Thank you!

    RicardoP80 (author)2017-09-29

    Excelente post, Cartola. Parabéns pela iniciativa!

    cartola (author)RicardoP802017-09-30

    Obrigado pela força Ricardo!

    heygeno (author)2017-09-28

    I have the same compulsion to use plastic that others throw out. I usually use duct tape - dont care what it looks like.....

    I started making "bottle string" last year and I see how it could also be used to MEND some things.

    On a side note , I have loved Brazilian music for a very long time ( primarily 'Batucada' )

    Great post !

    cartola (author)heygeno2017-09-29

    Hi Geno,

    I love this song you've found. Originally that is not a Samba, it's MPB (Música Popular Brasileira - Popular Brazilian Music) from a singer called Djavan (the song is Sina), which I like very much. The Manhattan Transfer have played it more like the original. People do this with Samba, it is a rhythm you can bring any other music to, easily. There are groups specialized on it, like Sambo, that plays many Brazilian rock and MPB in Samba and also Sargento Pimenta, that plays only Beatles musics in Samba. You might also search for MPB to see if you like it, but it's different from Samba. If you like drums try Timbalada, a famous Brazilian group with which even Michael Jackson has already recorded.
    One thing I like very much in many Brazilian music are the lyrics. Djavan make very poetic ones and the Manhattan group did a complete different version of Sina, but I also liked it.
    Be free to call me in private if you want to talk more about it (it's pretty much off topic :) ).
    Tks for you messages!

    cartola (author)heygeno2017-09-28

    I've already seen Bottle Strings. Surely one day I'll make it, just don't know yet what for lol

    You can search for other Brazilian music using words like Samba, Bossa Nova, Axé, Pagode and maybe others. I usually like more traditional ones, like Samba de Raiz.

    Thank you for your message!

    heygeno (author)cartola2017-09-28

    While looking through Samba de Raiz.,,, I heard a song from the 80's 90' ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFPPunMQbdU&index=22&list=RDhV2QPi9HtZM by an American group https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPgU_sCWA7I.... thanks, C.... Geno

    5umner (author)2017-09-27

    Try trichlorethane. It welds PVC. Comes as a capillary cement. Get on ebay, or for thicker use get PCV Cement at a plumbing or electrical supply store. They sell it as a way to put PVC conduits or pipe together

    cartola (author)5umner2017-09-27

    Thank you 5ummer! From what I've seen it's hard to find trichlorethane here in Brazil. I also didn't find PVC cement, but found many glues, but thos in general are used to join tubes with connections. Will they work to fix a crack in a chair?

    plasteek (author)2017-09-26

    You did a great job and the language was not a problem. I would suggest that if the polymer is known to be PVC then don't weld it. It is highly toxic. Also, heating certain glues or solvents are also a killer so make sure you read the SDS sheets of the material prior to heating.

    cartola (author)plasteek2017-09-26

    Thank you Plasteek. What is great in sharing experiences is that we learn a lot! Didn't even know about SDS sheets. I've read one now that says that PVC when Inhalated may cause respiratory
    irritation and that it is not even carcinogen. Are there many types of PVC? I've done a fast search and found it on this SDS it here.

    plasteek (author)cartola2017-09-26

    PVC contains vinyl chloride, which is a listed human carcinogen and when burnt it creates HCL (hydrogen chloride gas). It is also very corrosive and if you heat it in a poorly ventilated area it will oxidize any material it comes in contact within hours. Machines used to process PVC (molding machines) can have their screws and barrels destroyed overnight if the machine is shut down without having the material properly purged out.

    There are many grades of PVC and many SDSs (formerly MSDS) out there and some are written up better than others. This is one: http://www.cityplastics.com.au/site_files/687/pdf_...

    Shintech does state that PVC is considered not to be a carcinogen but they are referring to its natural state. When heating PVC at elevated temperatures, as in welding, in your instructions, the temperature becomes elevated, to melt the polymer and can then emit HCL, which is dangerous.

    In my opinion, if a PVC product breaks then either glue it or replace it.

    mahruk (author)plasteek2017-09-27

    You must also be around the Houston area, to know of Shintech. I used to work at a PVC manufacturing plant. You are quite correct, regarding the dangerous nature of heated and burning PVC.

    pgs070947 (author)plasteek2017-09-26

    Steady on plasteek.

    PVC is one of the most useful of all the plastics. The clue is in the name. Poly Vinyl Chloride. Yes, it has a lot of chlorine, so don't burn it. Hydrogen Chloride is the end result and a lot of carbon.

    It is one of the most versatile engineering plastics, easy to engineer, long lasting if used wisely. Widely used in construction materials, windows, doors, pipelines, domestic plumbing etc. Life as we know it now would be difficult without PVC. Much medical equipment like disposable tubing systems are PVC. Almost all consumer electrical wiring cables are PVC insulated.

    If you weld it, which I have, temperature control is the key parameter. If you are getting any fumes, you are over-heating. A proper weld with a heat gun like a Leister is a safe, fume-free operation.

    PVC is also a very accommodating plastic when it comes to gluing. Super Glues, epoxies, solvent welding are all good techniques.

    At the end of the day, it's up to you to make sure you are doing the job correctly, risk assess before you start and so on.

    cartola (author)plasteek2017-09-26

    Thank you one more time for valuable information!

    graywoulf (author)2017-09-26

    I have used this method for years but I have never thought of using the metal parts for added strength. I had a soldering iron like yours at one time that had the set screw to hold the tip. I used large head nails which I ground the head of the nails to triangular or even oval shapes to help spread the melted plastic. I also used a temperature control that is used for stained glass making to keep the heat just above the plastic melting point without burning it. Great Instructable!

    cartola (author)graywoulf2017-09-27

    Thank you for sharing your experience Graywoulf! I might use nails next time :)

    tincho1962 (author)2017-09-26

    you can sew any crank with zip ties just doing litlr holes on each side of broken side, and still after the crank stoped so it woudn{t go fouther

    cartola (author)tincho19622017-09-27

    It would do a strong fixing for sure. I can imagine this in PVC chairs to maybe even avoid the need of welding. Thanks for one more idea!

    sconnors (author)2017-09-26

    I have found that wire screen is an effective reinforcement. You can melt it into the back of what you are repairing.

    cartola (author)sconnors2017-09-27

    Good idea Sconnors! Haven't thought about it. Tks!

    MikeS605 (author)2017-09-26

    Hi Cartola, I thought I'd re-write your Introduction as you requested help in return for your instructions. Thanks for taking the time to write this up :)

    Introduction

    If
    you're in a rush jump to the Soldering step, which will be
    enough for many cases.

    Para
    meus colegas de língua portuguesa tem um
    vídeo tutorial no youtube
    .

    Plastic
    is the material of the 21st century. After learning how to fix broken plastic I
    realized how plastic is everywhere. A huge number of day to day things that we
    use are made of different polymers that most people just throw away as they get
    broken... and they break all the time. I've turned myself into an addict of soldering
    plastic. I often take a soldering iron in my back pack and offer to fix people’s
    plastic everywhere. It's impressive the number of things that are just
    discarded and that could still be useful:

    glasses

    chairs

    buckets

    containers

    toys

    refrigerator drawer

    hair brushes

    hangers

    sandals

    car parts

    electronic cases

    tupperware

    badges

    ...

    The
    list is endless. So, let's learn how they can be welded!

    I will
    show you one of the various techniques I've seen to fix plastic. This is the
    most generic and will fit most cases. This will fix plastics that have some
    thickness. You won't be able to weld plastic bags or other flexible plastic.

    To
    finish this introduction I would like to ask everyone to correct any misspelled
    or misused words. As I'm not a native English person I have made mistakes. Just
    make a comment and I will fix it. Thanks!

    For
    most cases you will only need:

    1.A
    soldering iron, those simple ones used in electronics with tin solder

    2.A respirator
    or other way to avoid breathing plastic gases (a fan to blow fumes away is a
    good idea, especially if you can be outside)

    3.Optional:
    a flat tip for your iron

    The
    optional flat tip will improve the results, but it's possible to do without it.

    If your
    plastic is thin, missing a piece, needs to be sealed for liquid, or under
    tension, you may also need:

    1.Disposable
    plastic strips

    2.Staple
    or wire

    3.Instant
    glue, soldering arms or another way to keep parts in place that you are welding

    Note: some
    plastics are already in a decomposition state – they break quite easily, almost
    crumbling by itself. Decomposition is more common to see in plastic exposed to
    sun and rain, but can happen to indoor plastic as well. In these cases the
    welding process won't work at all.

    cartola (author)MikeS6052017-09-26

    Wow! Thank you very much Mike! I got excited as I read your review! I felt like reading a teacher review of a composition in an English class, and for free! Great prize! I must tell you that I didn't just copy/paste, I've read your text aside mine and thought about to every change (hope haven't missed any) - for me that's how we improve!

    After this and other corrections people have already sent I think I must mention something at the instructable, otherwise people won't understand my request for help :)

    Bests!!!!

    IngenuityAtWork (author)2017-09-26

    Your use of English is clear :-)

    An excellent way to stop cracks before or after a plastic weld repair, is to drill a hole at the advancing point of the crack. The shearing force will be evenly distributed around the circumference of the circle, instead of at one point in the material.

    plasteek (author)IngenuityAtWork2017-09-26

    Great comment! Also, if a crack is just starting then drilling a small hole at its end (advancing point) is a good way of stopping it from propagating.

    cartola (author)IngenuityAtWork2017-09-26

    Great idea! I surely could have done that in some cases where I saw the crack and let to fix it another day, then the crack was much bigger. I'll try it next time. Thanks!

    the luth (author)2017-09-26

    Great job on the English and the repairs! The hood on my riding mower has a long crack along the top, so I am going to use your method to repair it. Thanks for sharing!

    cartola (author)the luth2017-09-26

    Thank you The Luth! Try to share some pictures when finished! And remember, never give up! :)

    TheRevM (author)2017-09-26

    Hi great work I would like to add only one small; thing ; when fixing something like the cupboard handle which has a small cross section but is relatively long I would drill a hole into both ends along its length and araldite in a small drill bit something like 1mm or 2mm for strength ; still have to try the plastic welding ; thanks

    cartola (author)TheRevM2017-09-26

    Yes, I could have tried this in the example shown in the tutorial. At the end I've used 8 pieces of metal inserted in the plastic with heat. Thank you also for teaching me the possible more usual name of that thing: "cupboard handle". I've translated to "drawer puller" from Portuguese (my native lang).

    TheRevM (author)2017-09-26

    Hi I wanted to add another comment; in this age of throw everything away when it is broken or slightly faulty it is great to see people fixing things. It is not only about cost of a new item ; no repairs anything nowadays ; just throw it away and buy another ; so keep up the good work ; for me it is also a challenge to fix something ; it does not matter if it is really necessary :):):)

    cartola (author)TheRevM2017-09-26

    I totally agree: it's not only a matter of cost. I usually prefer also to pay almost the price of a new one to fix when I can't fix myself, just not to generate more trash than we already do. It's somehow distressful to see people living like if the resources were infinite when we know they are not.

    pgs070947 (author)2017-09-26

    As you probably know, some plastics are more difficult than others to repair. The thermoplastics like PE and PP won't stick (though Loctite do an expensive olefin primer that alledgedly works with PTFE as well), but they weld well if you get the temperature right.

    A quick fix in emergencies is to get a strip of PE or PP, set light to it, and let it drip onto the crack. - not guaranteed to work, but might stem the flow if its a tank.

    I had a large PP outdoors water tank that developed a leak at the bottom. It was going to be expensive to repair. I tried welding but the water pressure found the holes and welding on the inside was impossible.

    The final repair wasn't pretty but it woprks. I used Geocel/Dow Corning "The Works". It is a silicone-like adhesive that will cure under water. It is also very sticky. I spatula'd the adhesive over the crack then worked in some car body repair coarse glass fibre. Then another layer of adhesive, plus fibre and finally a top coat. Despite the pressure from the full water, it has held for over a year and at least £500 saved for an outlay of less than £10

    cartola (author)pgs0709472017-09-26

    Great to know this experiences Pgs070947! Remembered me a little bit of a cooler I've fixed. I've sent this experience in another answer here with some pictures. Guess you'll find easily searching for "cooler".

    Thanks!

    EdwardL25 (author)2017-09-26

    your english is fine. better than most americans lol. anyways, i just broke the plastic piece that holds all the crap on the shelf in the fridge door. have been wondering how to fix all week....now i know. my iron only comes to a point, so we'll see how it works. great idea!!

    cartola (author)EdwardL252017-09-26

    Well, I try to learn every time and this is an opportunity to learn more English :) I have already fixed some suggestions. The last has been the misuse of "brake" instead of "break" 3 times in the text :)

    I've had very good results with fridge shelf polymers. Don't know if they are all the same, but I haven't even used inserted metal. Only the welding was enough. Good luck and thank you for your message!

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    Bio: I am an electronic engineer but work as a system analist. I started doing such projects when I was 15 years old. I did some ... More »
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