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Graft it back together and fiberglass it invulnerably strong. This project is good preparation for making a board from scratch.
This repair method uses epoxy resin and microballoon putty. Instead of epoxy you could use polyester resin or vinyl ester resin, with minor changes dictated by the resin instructions. Remember that unlike epoxy, those other resins dissolve styrofoam. This board is urethane foam so it doesn't matter.
Stuff you'll need:
Broken surfboard
Epoxy resin and the directions to not screw it up.
Microballoons
Fiberglass cloth. I have 8 oz and 4 oz.
Tyvek bunny suit to keep fiberglass dust off your skin.
safety glasses, dust mask, gloves for ditto.
Angle grinder, sanding disk, backing pad.
assorted other abrasive spinning devices, sanding blocks, sandpaper
This repair method uses epoxy resin and microballoon putty. Instead of epoxy you could use polyester resin or vinyl ester resin, with minor changes dictated by the resin instructions. Remember that unlike epoxy, those other resins dissolve styrofoam. This board is urethane foam so it doesn't matter.
Stuff you'll need:
Broken surfboard
Epoxy resin and the directions to not screw it up.
Microballoons
Fiberglass cloth. I have 8 oz and 4 oz.
Tyvek bunny suit to keep fiberglass dust off your skin.
safety glasses, dust mask, gloves for ditto.
Angle grinder, sanding disk, backing pad.
assorted other abrasive spinning devices, sanding blocks, sandpaper
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Signing UpStep 1Scrape off the Wax
If there's any wax on the deck, scrape it down to the deck with a serrated glue applicator.
You can also use a "comb" which is a similar wax texturing tool sold in surfing stores for this purpose.
Then use the straight edge of the glue applicator or any sharpened-credit-card type tool to scrape off as much wax as you can.
Non-surfers may wonder why people wax their boards, and why it looks like it was waxed with candle drippings, not like an ad for floor shine products. The purpose of sufboard wax is to provide a non-slip surface for the feet. So rougher is better.
The wax also gets sand stuck to it. If you surf bare-chested your abraded flesh will get embedded in the wax and your nipples will bleed. You'll realize why "a shirt worn while surfing" is called a "rash guard".
You can also use a "comb" which is a similar wax texturing tool sold in surfing stores for this purpose.
Then use the straight edge of the glue applicator or any sharpened-credit-card type tool to scrape off as much wax as you can.
Non-surfers may wonder why people wax their boards, and why it looks like it was waxed with candle drippings, not like an ad for floor shine products. The purpose of sufboard wax is to provide a non-slip surface for the feet. So rougher is better.
The wax also gets sand stuck to it. If you surf bare-chested your abraded flesh will get embedded in the wax and your nipples will bleed. You'll realize why "a shirt worn while surfing" is called a "rash guard".
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What do you think?
A hundred degrees what, Celsius , Fahrenheit, Réaumur, Rankine or Kelvin ?
Frankly, I guess you mean Celsius or Fahrenheit (which is still quite a difference), for something as global as a web page, it would be useful if you mention the unit.
Louis.
Great Shirt!
My one observation would be to use a fiberglass epoxy putty mix instead of the micro-balloons. Micro-balloons save you some weight, but they are better used for filling in irregular holes, like impacts. They do a good job of rolling into all the nooks and crannies. They don't impart much strength, and if you make the mix either too thin or too thick you loose effectiveness.
You can cut up fiberglass cloth, on the bias of the weave, to make the equivalent of milled glass fibers. They won't be as finely milled or as small as a purchased milled glass, but they add a lot of strength to the repair.
Also, when using any type of putty mix, be it milled glass fibers, micro-balloons, or aero-cil (cabo-cil) be aware that the putty will generate it's own heat and "kick off" quicker than the normal pot life of the resin by itself. On a large patch, it can cause the patch to bulge or de-laminate from the surface you are bonding to, or the individual plies from each other.
I have, on occasion, used a variation on your curing oven. For small fairings that it would not be cost effective to fire up the large commercial ovens we use, I have used a cardboard box large enough to hold the part and a cheap blow dryer. Place the part on a stand, I use mixing cups, place the box over the part, make a flap on a bottom corner of the box, large enough to accommodate the nozzle of a cheap blow dryer. Make another similar sized flap at a top corner of the box for air to flow out of the box. Plug in your blow dryer, I usually use a low setting. Make sure your box is at least 3-4 inches bigger than your part. Using the flaps, you can open or close them to achieve a nice temp in the box to cure parts.
Most of the resins we use have a pot life of 40 minute and a cure time of 4 hours to 24 hours at room temperature. Using this impromptu oven, once the resin has passed the working time, even the 24 hour cure time can be cut to a few hours.