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Fix the Red Ring of Death! (without towels!)

Step 8Re-installing the heatsinks

Re-installing the heatsinks
Now we get to mess with those screws one more time, before the tape gets taken off for good. Before you put the heatsinks back on, put thermal paste onto the CPU and GPU dies(the silver shiny things). A paper-thin coat will be good. If you're using a silver-based paste, make sure you don't put on a ton, because if it gets onto anything, the silver's conductivity will mess with the other components.

Pick whichever heatsink you wanna put on first. Make sure the CPU's copper heatpipe is facing away from the GPU heatsink when you put in on. The GPU heatsink won't let the CPU heatsink on if you put it on wrong. The easiest way to get this right is to look at the smudge marks on the heatsinks, and match 'em with their processors. When you thread the screws on, start each one off lightly, then get them up tightly. Try to get them evenly tightened to avoid having too much pressure on one side of the processor, and too little on another. When it's all done right, the heatsinks should not move at all.

Now we get to test it out!
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27 comments
May 26, 2011. 9:32 PMjgrieves says:
i followed as u instructed but i also added heatsink on the gpu that had a copper coolant line on it that went to a diffrent secction that it cooled it and added a fan to it also now i have two fans in side it and both heatsinks have copper cooling lines and it has worked great but i dont suggest doin this unles u have some know how on how to wire on circuit boards or u'll end up fring ur mobo but now it keeps so cool that the air that comes out of it is cold not warm but once again it takes some know how and tinkering before i got it so be careful
May 2, 2011. 1:01 AMxtremehydra says:
GUYS, i followed everything and my heatsinks just wont heat up, the fans arent even starting up!, i live in australia and i dont even know ehere to get thermal compount! is there anything i can substitute it with or is there anyone who knows whats wrong with my heatsinks or fan, please please help,

P.S. does anyone know any of the new updates for 2011, thanks!
Oct 20, 2008. 1:37 PMcathode_boy says:
im having a problem trying to find the thermal paste, i went to every place i thought might have it but nobody there even knew what thermal paste was. ive done everything and fixed my xbox from the three rings, just need the paste
Mar 16, 2011. 6:00 AMToadwitch says:
Most items for the Xbox can be found at stores that are geared toward Microsoft. If needed and the system you have has been with you awhile, it might be beneficial to go online and purchase it from an American company so it will be delivered more quickly. It may take you out of the gaming world for a few days but surely you have a friend that will allow you to go play with them for a few.
Aug 9, 2009. 7:59 AMphil-kolb-31 says:
you gotta go to a computer store, not best buy like a legit JUST computer store
Jul 28, 2009. 2:21 PMburningsuntech says:
If you can't get the thermal paste go to the automotive department of your local hard ware store and get any type of "high heat thermal grease". I use it on computer chips all the time should be just the trick:)
Oct 27, 2008. 5:11 PM2tall4ya says:
I got mine at Radio Shack. Took a bit of searching around in there, but I did find it. Mine actually says 'Thermal Compound' on the package, even though it's the Arctic Silver everybody is recommending.
Oct 22, 2008. 12:21 PMneoncyber says:
If you check out this link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007 , you'll see one of the best thermal pastes around. Arctic Silver, don't leave home without it! Also, I posted this in the comments section of Step 5: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100010 , use this to remove the current crappy quality thermal paste on the GPU & CPU. Read my comments in Step 5 to learn how to use it.
Mar 21, 2009. 5:41 PMteamrko43 says:
Do you need the thermal paste? I did every other step other than this and I have an e74 error code. I did everything exactly and rebooted it and it got the error code and then the fans went real fats then it shut down? Any help??
Mar 26, 2009. 5:25 PMneoncyber says:
Well, it's highly recommended. You see the fab teams that made the 360's rush these guys in an assembly line, due to this the quicker the better. Unfortunately for you and me, this means it's only better for Microsoft and not us. The thermal paste used in most 360's is crappy, thus the reason you should be here (amongst other things). Remember, this instructable is about the overheating issue...there are other issues w/ 360's that give proper lights indicating the issue w/ the 360. Go here to get better acquainted w/ them: http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair/Xbox-360-error-codes.htm . Scroll down to the area where it shows only one red light on the lower right, and check the error code numbers. Remember, just because you had an RROD (3-lights) doesn't mean that was the main factor causing your 360 to crap out. Your issue (E-74) is sometimes known to be caused by a faulty "ANA/HANA" chip (scaler chip right by A/V connection on mobo). Try reconnecting your A/V cable and/or replacing it w/ a different one. If that doesn't work, and like you said, you successfully did all the steps listed here, then unfortunately you may have to replace the unit, as having an RROD and an E-74 may be solved by the same solution (i.e., this instructable), but sometimes they are not one in the same issue (i.e., overheating and a loose scaler chip are not the same issue).
Jun 5, 2010. 8:43 AMXxxyzyz2 says:
OK, just for reference, those aren't screws. They are bolts. Screws are pointy on the end. It might work with screws - we are going to try it because we don't feel like going back to home depot for more screws.
Jun 7, 2010. 6:17 PMdelcera says:
Um, I hate to break it to you, but those /are/ screws. They're "machine screws", which are the exact type of screw the instructions say you're supposed to get.
Oct 9, 2010. 1:10 AMXxxyzyz2 says:
In the US, they're bolts.
Mar 16, 2011. 5:55 AMToadwitch says:
Actually the difference between screws and bolts is very elementary. It is so simple, me, a 45 year old woman who is also blond can figure it out. Screws can be put into place with a screw driver. A bolt requires the use of a wrench be it socket or solid or open ended.

If there is any doubt, try using a screw in an engine compartment. Also, because bolts usually have to be held in place by either a chemical compound or a nut on the other end they are made of a stronger metal that is not easily twisted in half during the torque of removing it or putting it in.
Oct 11, 2010. 8:38 PMcraigsfiero2007 says:
There is a difference between Bolts and Machine Screws. Bolts have different heads than Machine Screws. Machine Screws have different thread pitches than Bolts do. I don't know much about how to fix RROD on an Xbox 360, but I do know ALOT about Screws and Bolts and anything Machining, being a Machinist and all.
Oct 11, 2010. 8:35 PMcraigsfiero2007 says:
There is a difference between Bolts and Machine Screws. Bolts have different heads than Machine Screws. Machine Screws have different thread pitches than Bolts do. I don't know much about how to fix RROD on an Xbox 360, but I do know ALOT about Screws and Bolts and anything Machining, being a Machinist and all.
Oct 9, 2010. 5:59 PMdelcera says:
Actually, they're not. I live in the US, just outside Charlotte, NC, and picked some up from Lowe's in the 'Machine Screw' section.

Just saying.
Jun 20, 2010. 2:48 PMmaxxthewolf says:
My Home Depot was out of the #10-32 panhead screws, and the WAF of rolling to another store on a saturday seemed low. So I bought the #10-32 3/4" and #10-32 1" FLATHEAD Slotted Machine screws instead. Also, instead of nylon washers, I thought I'd try out the Nylon Machine Screws (also #10-32) and post my results for the benefit of others on here. All parts are by "Crown Bolt". #10-32 x 1" Machine Screw Flathead Slotted Zinc SKU: 30699-28661 Zinc 28661 6 Pcs per bag - $0.98 (6/19/2010) 1 bag. #10-32 x 3/4" Machine Screw Flathead Slotted SKU: 30699-28651 Zinc 28651 8 Pcs per bag - $0.98 (6/19/2010) 1 bag. Machine Screw Fine Thread 10-32 4B Nylon SKU: 30699-86868 DR# 515 AZ-L / 36-L / 515 2 Pcs per bag - $0.55 (6/19/2010) Need 4 bags. If your Home Depot has a "cabinet" in the fasteners aisle, thats where these will be, NOT in the hanging baggies in the section with the rest of the screws/bolts/etc Flat Washer #10 4B Nylon SKU: 30699-86938 DR#610 AZ-M / 36-M / 610 5 Pcs per bag - 0.50 (6/19/2010) Need 4 bags. If your Home Depot has a "cabinet" in the fasteners aisle, thats where these will be, NOT in the hanging baggies in the section with the rest of the screws/bolts/etc I really wanted to use the nylon screws, because it resolves the "problem" of "taping" the screw heads to the case and doing the "perfect flip" of the motherboard onto them. Each nylon machine screw is also the exact same thickness as 4 nylon washers stacked atop one another. Using this method, I put TWO washers onto each screw, then put the nylon machine screw on top of it. Just screwed it in enough to where the threads of the screw were just visible for each screw. I also use the 3/4" screws for the GPU (silver heatsink) and the 1" for the CPU (gold heatsink). Originally I tried with 3/4" for both, and was unable to get it to work. For some reason, the 1" screws seem to work better for the CPU contact.. With the motherboard on top of the screws, start slowly screwing them in so the tops of the screws are now visible through the holes in the motherboard, but NO further! Goop on the Arctic Silver #5 (I used Antec Silver #5 from my local Fry's at $9.99 a tube, which really seemed like poor value for $, but oh well) - I read some comments about the silver going everywhere and causing interference with the other components - and the first couple tries I was real cautious. Eventually I just loaded it up, and the components on top of each processing unit was now bathed in the stuff. Just don't let it get over the sides, and it seems to be fine. I discovered that more is better than less with the Arctic Silver. Now start screwing in the silver heatsink. The 3/4" screws go ALL the way, and make a nice solid connection when the screws wont turn anymore. I concur with the commentator who suggested doing them all in turns so that you dont put too much pressure on any one point of the chip. The nylon washers and screw will make a solid contact when done, and you wont be able to screw in anymore without cracking the board. Do the same with the gold heatsink - same exact procedure. Tighten until you feel like you have to use force to go further, then STOP. With this method, the 360 boots up the first time, EVERY time. I tried with all 3/4" screws, I also tried with all nylon washers - couldn't get either one to work out properly. So if you're having trouble with this part (or cant find the 1/2" screws or cant find the panheads) my suggestions might help you. Good luck, and kudos to the OP and all the commentators for your assistance - loving the fact that my 360 is BACK in action!
Sep 17, 2010. 10:59 PMJoedidley says:
dude you must have some time on your hands or must write alot because that is loooooong
Sep 14, 2010. 11:25 AMmlayman69 says:
I would not recommend using nylon screws. The steel screws helps the cooling process by conducting the heat from the heat sinks to the metal case and then the case becomes part of the heat sink.
Aug 20, 2010. 5:27 PMBradshaw101 says:
Do i add thermal paste to the Both the dies on the GPU? or just the big one.
May 28, 2010. 11:00 AMoarius says:
so i hit a circuit on my mobo while trying to fix it i wanna know if i need to give up or continue with my assault of trying to get rid of the red rings...i have a vid here that shows roughly where i hit it...i still get the red ring and the 2 over heat lights an if i leave the dvd drive unplugged i get the flashy green light, the fans still work and run silently...i tried the screw trick but i have a feeling im not getting it quite right an im gettin a bit discouraged...heres a vid of what i mean

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAL0EBK-4ps
May 24, 2010. 10:54 PMvelda14 says:
 are heatsink paste and thermal paste the same thing? i have followed your guide, and when i turn it on, 4 seconds later it is "overheated".
Apr 8, 2010. 9:19 PMPeatie0 says:
Het Guys i know this may sound dumb but i wanna get it right, the thermal paste goes on the square shiny things in the middle of the cpu and the middle of the gpu?

cheers guys
Mar 30, 2010. 12:19 PMJagz13 says:
DO NOT SKIP THE THERMAL PASTE!!! I thought the thermal paste that was already on from factory would still be fine... IT'S NOT!!! Make sure you REMOVE AND REPLACE THE THERMAL PASTE!!!
Feb 23, 2010. 9:15 PMmakingoneup says:
Hey, I've got all the screws in and everything, but when I try to put the washers on the top, the screws are to close together and that causes the washers to touch making an uneven surface for the heatsinks, so I don't know what to do :(.
Mar 28, 2010. 10:11 AMTreknology says:
 Careful filing to create non-interfering "flat" sides on the washers will enable them to sit in place co-operatively.

I also suggest just the tiniest glob of PVA to keep the washers in place until final assembly.
Feb 2, 2010. 7:15 PMjuiceman11 says:
I just performed this instructable today.  It was tricky but it worked after many tries.  I completed the whole thing and in the end it ended up being that i didn't use enough heatsink thermal paste!  The paste is critical in the transfer of heat from the CPU/GPU to the heatsink.  I put just a paper thin coat the first time and it would either tell me that I had and E02 Error (which meant that the heatsinks were overtightened) or it would tell me that they overheated. I continued loosening and tightening them and i couldn't get to the balance between too loose and too tight.  Then i took them back off and put more paste on the CPU/GPU.  If you look at how much microsoft put on when you take the heatsinks off originally you can see that it overflowed off the sides a little bit.  You do have a little overflow  room before you get to the small components around the dies (silver shiny things).  Don't go crazy but put enough so it overflows just a bit.  That's what finally worked in the end for me. 

Also i found site to be very helpful when testing:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=484726

I ended up using the information under the "Secondary Error Codes" section.  It was very helpful in determining the problems when nothing was being output to the screen.

This is the thermal paste i used as well
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2216879
Worked very well.

Best of luck to everyone!
Feb 24, 2009. 4:40 PMJunkman1989 says:
After trying all of the suggestions in addition to the instructable, we decided that one corner of the daughter-board for the GPU was lifted a tiny bit. We cut two 1/4"x1" strips of thin hard cardboard (from a Lindt Intense Orange Dark Chocolate wrapper - we needed moral support after hours of tinkering) and laid one on each side of the GPU so that minor pressure would apply to the daughter-board without obstructing the heat-sink connection to the GPU. Success!!
Dec 31, 2008. 1:23 PMjt4613 says:
Hello, This is my first attempt at this fix and I can't quite get it to work. I have attached the heatsinks and did the heat test. The heatsinks heated up fairly quickly, however I can't get the xbox to boot properly now without the RROD. I have tried putting pressure on different parts of the heatsinks but nothing seems to work. Can anybody help me out?
Jan 1, 2009. 10:50 PMbusterslash says:
hey there jt4613. you may want to find out what you secondary error code is. this will tell you if your xbox is fixable. you can find out about that here

This step will probably get your xbox running. it made mine run like new! you want to do the last 6 steps of the llamma tutorial. just count 6 boxes up from the bottom. it will explain why it works there. dont forget you want you fan NOT clipped into the metal. you cant find the tutorial here

good luck! if you have trouble just reply back.

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Author:Jake Turner(Jake Turner)
Where to start... I get bored and reach for either a soldering iron or a keyboard. I have a short attention span. I love working with electronics, eating pizza, and making all sorts of things. I've be...
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