Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Do you want a new pair of home audio speakers but can't afford to spend hundreds of dollars? Then why not repair an old speaker yourself for as little as $30!? Replacing a speaker driver is an easy process, whether you have a blown speaker that needs to be fixed or an older speaker that could use a boost in performance. This guide, perfect for DIY types, will look at the process of selecting an appropriate driver for your speaker, as well as the physical replacement. Armed with nothing more than a screwdriver (or drill) and ruler, this quick and straightforward process will have you upgrading your home stereo in no time!
(Note: Before starting it would be helpful to refer to the speaker anatomy picture to familiarize yourself with terms that will be used throughout this guide)
(Note: Before starting it would be helpful to refer to the speaker anatomy picture to familiarize yourself with terms that will be used throughout this guide)
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Find the Problematic Driver
Before you begin, you have to know which driver needs to be replaced. First, remove the cloth section covering the front of the speaker, more commonly known as the speaker grill. This should come off fairly easily.
To test the speaker, play music through it. Music is the ideal media to test with because more frequencies will be used simultaneously, allowing you to pinpoint the blown or under-performing driver more quickly. Based on what type of driver you are testing, you should adjust your system’s equalizer accordingly:
• Tweeter: Increase the system’s treble setting
• Mid-Range: Increase the system’s mid setting
• Woofer: Increase the system’s bass setting
Run each driver test individually at a reasonably high volume (somewhere around 7 or 8 out of 10) and take note of any noticeable cracking or buzzing. Based on this test decide which driver, or possibly drivers, need to be replaced.
To test the speaker, play music through it. Music is the ideal media to test with because more frequencies will be used simultaneously, allowing you to pinpoint the blown or under-performing driver more quickly. Based on what type of driver you are testing, you should adjust your system’s equalizer accordingly:
• Tweeter: Increase the system’s treble setting
• Mid-Range: Increase the system’s mid setting
• Woofer: Increase the system’s bass setting
Run each driver test individually at a reasonably high volume (somewhere around 7 or 8 out of 10) and take note of any noticeable cracking or buzzing. Based on this test decide which driver, or possibly drivers, need to be replaced.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
This step reminded me that I've had a speaker buzz because someone had done this before and over-tightened the screw. It stripped the hole in the MDF or plywood and the screw wasn't holding the speaker tightly to the box. The simplest solution is to use a slightly larger screw.
If the back of the speaker box is removable, you can drill the existing hole all the way through the face of the speaker box, put a small bolt through the front and fasten it with a washer, nut and lock nut at the back (you'll need to take the back of the speaker box off to access this, though).
A third, very easy option is to abandon the original screw holes, turn the speaker in its hole and drill all brand new screw holes. If it's covered by the grill cloth, nobody will see it and it shouldn't affect the sound. For the one in the photo, if it were turned by 1/8th, the screws would be at the top, bottom and sides - a little "different", but not bad looking!