Step 5: Attach the brackets to both sides

All the holes were drilled and it was time to assemble the brackets. (I made three sets of holes on the brackets to correspond with the three sets of holes on the slot. This allowed me to adjust the height of the reel mowers blades pretty well. The washer that went into the bracket had to be ground down some for clearance.
A friend had a reel push mower and his rear roller needed replacement. I turned a long cylinder from some old oak for him. His mower had to projections, one from each side that acted as short axles fitting into the ends of holes in the rear roller. I drilled axle holes on the ends and drove in a sleeve bushings from 1/2 inch electrical conduit. It worked fine. <br><br>Have you ever had to sharpen your reel mowers? I understand the factory equipment for doing that was fairly involved, almost like a lathe to center the reel and then a small grinder moved along a guideway. I imagine a person could improvise something to do a reasonably good job.
I have sharpened a set of blade by draw filing them. Very tedious and only with marginal results. I have found that a properly adjusted space between the spiral blades and the bar they cut against makes more difference then any of my draw filing. Properly adjusted the blades will kinda wear themselves sharp again. I will have to post another in instructable about that soon. There is also kits that are basically lapping compound and a wrench that allows you to spin the reel in reverse. They have good reviews online but unless its adjusted right it doesn't seem to matter. Thanks for viewing my instructable.
I have a more modern reel mower and to sharpen the blades, you pop off the wheels and flip the two pawls around so the blades rotate in the opposite direction. Then you change the adjustment so the shear edge is just touching the blades and apply lapping compound. Run the mower a bit (with the blades spinning backward) then clean off the lapping compound, back off the shear edge a bit, and put the pawls back so the blades rotate the right way (feeding the grass into the shear edge.)<br><br>Even if the pawls are not reversible, I imagine the same technique could be accomplished by removing the blade ratchet and driving the blades backward with a drill.

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