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So I was fixing my jet lighter (by now a fairly archaic design but a very good one and it only cost me£1 at a car boot sale) I used to fix antique lighters with my dad, thankfully jet lighters tend to be a bit more standard for repairs.

So In this I'll cover diagnosis, repair and also dismantling and assembly (most lighters designs' are a common principle... )
Ok so i got a slightly better camera than my phone, it's an ancient canon powershot A60, only 2MP but check out the macro in the pics, it was top of the range once upon a time and it shows.

Step 1: So What You'll Need for This

Tools
- a small philips head screwdriver (the tiny ones) it almost alway philips head.
-a penknife or a small flathead screwdriver (for adjustments)
-a pair of pliers, needle nose are great her but I can do it with my fake leatherman start to finish (make damn sure the pliers aren't magnetized it's annoying)
-a safety pin or some thin tough wire or a drawing pin (you'll see what I mean if it comes up)

Materials
-some sturdy wire about 24awg (anything that fits will do (again you'll understand pretty quick) is handy
-lighter gas, really helps diagnosis, in fact try the first...
-You may need rubber tubing or a piezo spark depending how you broke it (if you dropped I already know whats wrong. the lighter in this is my drinking lighter because it's made of metal and I know how to fix it)

Step 2: Ok Diagnosis Time Doctor

First put gas in the lighter, you should have done this already but this helps us determine alot.

Fill it with gas and listen, it may leak for a up to 30 seconds but that's ok as long as it stops.

Push down the button, is there gas coming out and is there a definite click from the spark (if yes to both this will be easy)

If there's no gas coming out at the nozzle but it's going somewhere then the connection has been broken probably nothing more than the flexible gas line has slipped off the seat of the reservoir end (there's more room here so it fall off that end but it's easy to fix anyway)

If you push the button all the way down and no click go to the shop and buy a really crappy cheap electric lighter, not a bic though, their piezios have no wire.

try turning down the gas a bit (sometimes the gas can't ignite because it going too fast for the tiny arc to heat... This always happens if you set the lighter when it's hot because it starts easier but wont once it's cooled down again.

All of these things are curable, this lighter hasn't many original parts, at one point I was going to hotrod a second nozzle in but There's no room, eventually I'll make an instructable about how to make your own jet lighter.

Step 3: Opening Your Lighter Up

This step just tells you how to take it all apart.

First look on the bottom, there should be a small (mostly likely philips head) screw not far from the filler valve, unscrew it, usually that is the only thing holding a lighter together, now pull the casing down off the rest (hold on to the cap and carefully pull the casing off) now you should see the guts of your lighter, there's probably 2 pins holding the assembly together. Enter the safety pin, Use the pin or wire to push the pin out of its hole.

now try moving everything apart, careful not to lose anything (yes my pins are made from steel wire but shh the screw came off a tiny circuit board, i didn't lose it, the screw was too long to start with.)

Check the image, the parts should be recognizable, and the note will explain all...

Step 4: Adjusting the Spark

This is easily the most common problem with jet lighters because they have metal bodies...

Basically the piezo is grounding out to the body or the chassis...

All we need to do is move the wire out and put it against the nozzle so it's touching it, that'll be guaranteeing near 100% performance in lighting. The first picture here shows the spark wire end pulled out and away a bit to so we get a clear idea of where we can put it. Wrapping it around the nozzle is good if there are no close metal body parts but the best is definitely doing it like picture 2. You should have kept all the pins, but really you should hav just left it together had this been the case. Before putting the case on, see if the lighter fires up if so slide the case on again and see if it still goes, if yes screw it back on and go light something up with it (In my case a Marlboro Red but in yours it may be a fuse... )

Step 5: So I Did That, But I'm Not Getting Anywhere

Simply check where gas is going by pushing down on the lever for the gas valve on the reservoir, look carefully along the gas line, you should see something similar to 'heat wiggles' (from the change in desity between gas and air) if theres a leak, I you have a crappy BBQ lighter kicking around then cannibalize that for some gas line (there's enough for five or six replacements) and if you needed it they're a great source of igniters due to the extra long cable.

If the gas still isn't getting out the nozzle then the nozzle's clogged, symptoms include the lighter bursting into flame for a second during use. take some thin wire or a pin and put it through the nozzle to clear it.

At this point I can't think of much else to go wrong, if the gas filler valve leaks when you fill it up then tighten it. If everything works but the lighter won't light or can't hold a flame turn down the gas flow a bit. If the flame sputters and has trouble keeping going then it's too weak to stay above the nozzle, turn the gas flow up a little. Finally we put it back together.

If there's any problem I have missed comment me and I'll add steps, to be honest I can't think of anything other than components going wrong after this.

Step 6: Putting It Back Together

Right now we rebuild the lighter

From the picture you should be able to tell your own parts easily enough.

This list goes bottom to top in stacking up the components again, refer to the pictures to make full sense

BOTTOM

- Reservoir
-gas valve lever (best put in before piezo for convenience
-piezo
-button cover/s
-lid top assembly (make sure the gas tubes go back in the right place)
-slide the cover back on and screw on

Step 7: I Do Believe We're Done

Again if there's anything I missed or any questions comment me and I'll do my best to help.

Where can I buy a rubber hose for the fuel line w/out having to buy it online? I've already tried getting one from another lighter but none have one that's long enough.
<p>i really want to build a jet lighter from scratch......... <br>are there any lighters made from much higher quality parts? they all seem to be asasembled from the same junk.</p><p>i thought for sure id find someone who builds super high end hand made lighters of any type but no luck.<br></p>
<p>Before I found this I tried to fix my torch lighter and am having issues. I'm pretty good with small mechanical items like this so I thought it would be a breeze..<br><br>The intitial problem was that the flame started going to one side. Pretty clearly a clog so I opened it up and took the gear like part out of the end of the jet, blew out some lint and made sure the main passage was clear. <br><br>I also took the nipple off the jet and found a disc with a hair-fine hole in the center (metering?), what looks like a very fine filter disc and a small brass washer. I'm not sure on the order of the washer but I've tried metering disc/washer/filter and metering disc/filter/washer. Either way the problem I'm having bow it that the gas seems to just pour out of the side holes in the jet body.<br><br>Any tips? This was a great lighter! I don't think I lost anything but I don't see why the gas wouldn't just come out the sides with this setup.</p>
<p>I cant believe i found this comment. I'm having the exact same issue.. Did you ever figure it out? Its driving me nuts and i just want to get this thing fixed, it cost me $80 and all started when i blue compressed air on the nipples and butane was coming out at the same time (not lit). Thanks </p>
<p>In addition to that valve (which shouldn't have a hole, you may have poked it... it is to stop the flame from receding into the tank), there is a very tiny rubber gasket which sits below that breather valve. It completes the seal, as well as separating the grounded part of the nozzle from the tip.</p>
<p>Jesse,</p><p>The hole is absolutely supposed to be there. It is this small disc with the hole in it that makes torch lighters possible. High pressure behind the otherwise sealed chamber which contains this small disc with the hole in it being the only outlet for said pressure= high force high efficiency (given proper air intake ports) blue torch flame. You'll see large tabletop lighters have a disc with a very slightly larger hole in it than the smallest flickiest torch flame. It's actually ridiculous how little variation is needed to create an almost invisible purple roaring jet flame in one lighter, then one with a disc with maybe one hundredth of a milimeter increase in hole size will give off a lazy blue green slow jet flame.</p><p>For whatever reason. EVERY torch lighter, (from the dollar store cheapos to my $200 ST Dupont Maxijet lighter,) to make the torch flame as we know it, have these three pieces inside the nozzle in order from closet to flame tip to farthest: small disc with fuel hole in it, then a copper washer, then a small tiny piece of screen so the hole doesnt get cloggy, and then the back end of the nozzle screws on to which the fuel tube if applicable attaches to.</p><p>I've attached a pic of those three components from my spare parts box so you can take a close look. Hope this helps!</p>
thats called a orfic skinny small disc inside of mixture witch is used to add pressure/fuel or take away pressure/fuel witch interacts with air coming into mix threw 2/4 holes in mixer body the small tony screen with it is a filter and a lot of times those get plugged by dirty butane or cheap button causing Torch to light as if it was a regular gas lighter or not at all when flame adj dosnt work to adjust flame either.
I've got a vintage Colibri that will spark/light, but won't hold butane. On closer inspection, there are some cracks in the plastic butane resevoir (see pic). Does anyone have any suggestions for plugging these holes? TIA
<p>they sell a plastic weld at the home depot.</p>
<p>I recently purchased two Single Torch lighters. It seems there is a piece in the torch on these lighters that fall out easily. I was able to keep one together for the most part but the piece keeps falling out. What is the name of this piece? Is there somewhere I can purchase a piece like this without buying a whole new lighter? Is there a way I can get it to stay in the lighter?</p>
<p>Well I believe I figured out the name of the piece I am missing. I just need to know how to get it to stay in and where to buy it, if I can without purchasing another lighter.</p>
<p>that piece screws in. please let me know the name of that part.</p>
<p>I have the same problem with a colibri vortex lighter. whats the name of that part. </p>
<p>I've never seen parts for them available conveniently, that particular style's common though, so a whole lighter for pennies is likely the practical solution. </p>
<p>I'd get another cheap lighter. I've even found them at dollar stores.</p>
<p>for the love of god I have a dupont torch lighter and the flame adjustment won't lower!! this lighter cost so much please help me. Ive taken it apart and put it all back together but I cannot lower the flame height. No matter how I tighten the bottom screw into the bottom of the central metal cylinder system, the lighter continues to blow tons of butane out making a giant flamethrower :'( Please someone help me!! no butane is leaking from any part.. it just won't lower! I'm lost and know very little about lighters... Please sweet baby jesus no...</p>
On closer examination, one of the tiny wires is just about still there, although they were in a nice straight line.
Hi. My lighter wont light. Im sure that before it broke there were a few tiny wires across the nozzle. They arent there anymore. Any thoughts?
I have a ronson pistol style torch lighter that has been awesome. I have cleaned ut numerous times with good result, however the last time i did so, after reassembly it does not function correctly. Usuallt you can adjust the valve to have a pencil style jet torch blue flame or a bic style (yellow-orange) flame. Now, no matter what, i get the bic style flame and can only make it bigger... Im not sure if i lost a piece somewhere or what. I love this thing and cannot even find a picture of the same one more less a replacement... Please help!!
<p>Ahh the Ronson Tech Torch. I have the red one, but if the internals are the same, make sure the small pointy nozzle bit is screwed in all the way allowing sufficient force behind it to push out the jet style flame.</p>
<p>My husband took his lighter apart, it works again, but he has a small pin and a spring left over. If those don't have anything to do with safety are they necessary?</p>
<p>Most lighters use pins to hold the internals securely together once in the case. Outside of the case it can be a mess with pins flying out every time you press here or there on any mechanisms. If it works as is, it may work a little better or feel tighter/better constructed with said pin replaced, but thats about it.</p><p> Springs? eh many diffrerent uses. Actuation levers, flame door hinges, pure and simple leverage, etc. It's fine if its working without.</p>
<p>Always cover the valve at the lighter with an electric tape. When filling gas simply open the tape and pump in the gas. Later close the tape. The tape protect the dust while it is in your pocket. Usually tiny dust will stick at the valve, so when you pump the gas the dust will go in and later clog. According to one of the lighter manufacture 80% of the lighter that came for warranty claim have this problem. The valve sometime get stuck. I usually spay WD40 oil on the valve. That will solve the problem. I bought an IMCO butane lighter. When I pump gas the gas will immediately escape. After spraying WD40 oil on the valve, the problem is solved.</p><p>Warranty claim? IMCO have closed down long ago. So I fix up myself.</p>
<p>WD-40 attracts dust and dirt. It creates a static charge on the surface that pulls particles in. This is part of the science behind the water displacement properties of the stuff. There are many better oils, more suitable out there like 101 oil, any firearm oil, Marvel Mystery Oil for AIr Tools, etc...ect. </p>
<p>I want to add that the Portasol Superpro 125 as well as the Snap-On Model #YAKS32A have two switches. One switch is the on-off switch for the butane, and the other switch is the igniter and flame control. <br><br>You ignite it, then slowly release the igniter and you get your nice and strong jet blue flame, however, if you pull back slowly on the igniter after being lit, you can turn it into your ordinary (BIC style) yellow blue flame. It varies depending on how far you pull the switch back which is spring loaded. <br><br>I've found that extremely useful when you don't want pressurized heat shooting out in a tight space, or when lighting something that just doesn't need all that heat that the jet flame produces. <br><br>Again, the Portasol Superpro 125 and the Snap on Model #YAKS32A are the EXACT SAME THING. They look slightly different, but are both manufactured in Ireland by one of the most prestigious butane lighter companies on the planet. Try one and you'll see.<br></p>
<p> It saddens me that you made an account just to spam this Instructable. I'll join in on your &quot;this has little to do with the Instructable' and give my rebuttal to your Portasol recommendation. I like the torch, but I do not like the torch enough to recommend it for purchase. Portasol (Weller), is my go-to for soldering irons, I do not care for the piezoelectric feature. Why pay the extra cash for a feature that is going to fail? In the end you'll have an iron that you manually light anyway right? With the Professional, there is a flint striker in the cap and flint is easy to replace. I have a Portasol Professional, well three actually, but this particular one is one that was purchased in the 90's by an NCR technician as a replacement for one lost. This inherited iron I've had for 10 years now, I've just cleaned it for the second time. The Portasol &quot;Professional&quot; is the most reliable Butane torch/soldering iron that I've had the pleasure of owning. I have others as well, like the so far unbeatable BernzOmatiC 250. The B-O-matic has the same tips as the more expensive Portasol that Spammy above and below recommended, the kicker, it is only $13.00 or like $20 for the 6-1 Kit. I doubt the tips will outlast the ones that come with the Professional, it uses a lantern style metal element where all the more $$$ ones use a porcelain type honeycomb element. In summery, skip the pricey torch kits.</p>
<p>i took my lighter out of its case to refuel, and a copper piece fell out of somewhere. It looks like a disk with a tail. My guess is that it is an electrical ground, but where does it go? </p><p>Also, is there a technique to refueling to prevent the fuel from getting everywhere except into the little hole on the tank? Thanks!</p>
<p>How do I restore the torch lenght/height to its former glory? It used to be about 2&quot; long but now maxes at about 1&quot;. A longer, stronger flame makes vaping out of my Lotus &quot;manual&quot; vaporizer much faster and easier.</p>
<p>I have a butane lighter, and it'll spark, and i can see a very small blue flame at the bottom, but it just won't take air, do u know what is wrong with it?</p>
<p>Thank you very much for your advices ! I found the reason of the disfonctionnal and as many other my minijet isn't working because of the piezoelectronic piece... do anyone know where I could bought one of this ??? Thank you !!</p>
I am trying to get my Zico lighter to work. Gas flow isnt an issue, just no spark and I dont see any grounding issues with the wire (see attached pic). I am a bit worried about having to replace the piezo unit given how deeply buried it is behind the flow valve arm, how its seated into the reservoir tank structure, and that there are no more screws to remove to gain better access. Is it worth my trouble to cannibalize a piezo and attempt this repair?
I am trying to get my Zico lighter to work. Gas flow isnt an issue, just no spark and I dont see any grounding issues with the wire (see attached pic). I am a bit worried about having to replace the piezo unit given how deeply buried it is behind the flow valve arm, how its seated into the reservoir tank structure, and that there are no more screws to remove to gain better access. Is it worth my trouble to cannibalize a piezo and attempt this repair?
Someone tell me how to change the memory setting on my jetty its remembered high as the lowest setting
Plz help me! My jet light has the &quot;remember&quot; feature and i filled it on the high setting so it has &quot;remembered&quot; high as the lonwest setting. How do i change it??
<p>I was able to fix my lighter using your guide. Thanks for the great explanation!</p>
Hi! Wondered if I could send you my lighter to repair for me for payment? ? can you please contact me and let me know?
Mine is jet torch and guts but the tank has two brass tips the bottom leaks how do I get it to stop lealking out
<p>I'd like to know where I can get replacement screws for the bottom of my lighter? The one that holds the insides and outside together. I fixed the issue I had with my lighter but managed to lose the screw. Can anyone tell me where I can get another screw?</p><p>Thanks.</p>
The person posting this instructable says that he found a small screw in an old small circuit board. Another place that might have small screws like this would be Radio Shack or an electronics repair shop...
hi i just bought a jet lighter last month. at first it function nicely but after a month it stop working even i refuel it. it just making the hissing sound from the gas and it wont light up... can you please help me. please anyone i dont know how to fix it
<p>I have 2 lighters and I put K-NICE butane gas in them. They won't light up. They will just give off spark when clicked and you'll just hear the gas.</p>
<p>i have almost the exact same lighter, having a problem with it leaking. i took the reservoir out and i can still hear it leaking. any idea how to fix this? thanks for the guide.</p>
<p>what if I accidentaly took the wire off?</p>
<p>Two things: One, I fixed even my cheap jet lighter that wouldn't spark. I took it apart, and now i have to reset the plunger on the piezo piece that loads the spring that strikes the piezo piece that sparks the lighter every time I light it. That's going to need to be replaced to be perfectly fixed. No way I see to get around that.<br><br>The second problem I had, was that the jet was producing a bic like regular flame instead of the blue flame. What was weird was that after a minute or so of constant flame it would switch to a perfect blue flame. So I assumed it was clogged. I fiddled with it and didn't get very far, so since it was such a cheap piece of junk, I decided to try something weird. I took my can of butane and pushed it onto the jet nozzle on the top until it engaged and sprayed, it had nowhere to go, so it just built up pressure and without noise and puffed as the pressure released around the jet nozzle as I pulled it away. <br><br>Now, when I tried my lighter I instantly have blue flame. Also, the spark is now strong enough to light the lighter, despite having to reset it each time, so the butane coming out too slow was obviously the problem on that one. I didn't try increasing the flow before accidentally clearing the clog, may have worked, may not have.<br><br>So, I probably wouldn't want to try it on a nice jet lighter, but I will suggest the best Jet lighter / butane torch / Regular flame (Think BIC flame) all-in-one. That would be the Snap-On Model YAKS32A. This is by far the best one I have ever used and comes with a 12 month warranty. Yes, the kit is 187 dollars, but it's worth every penny for anyone who uses their torch regularly. <br><br>This particular, amazing, torch is actually made by an Irish company -- Portasol. I'm pretty sure the Portasol torches are remarkably cheaper at 88 Dollars on amazon with PRIME too hah, but the EXACT same quality. The Portasol torch you want is the Superpro 125 / Superpro 125 Kit same 12 month warranty. By the way, that's the kit that is 88 dollars on amazon, Snap On is way over pricing that one for just their name. I thought it would be a few bucks cheaper, but it's literally one hundred dollars cheaper, plus free two day shipping with Prime. Which is amazing in its own right.<br><br>You can fix most problems with the torch yourself, but the only problem I would foresee is clogging due to low quality fuel.<br><br><br>When I get the money, I'll be getting my Portasol Superpro 125, and I'll revel in the easy soldering repair and any other uses you too might need it for:personal, recreational, hobby or work.</p>
<p>I bought the Dupont MaxiJet lighter. Price went up after my order. I was glad that I purchase it. It work well, on every strike there was a flame. There is a nice fuel window. The problem is sometime the window can't close.. upon reading the net. Others also have the same problem. I figure out that those touch lighter got problem working up side down. This Dupont maxiJet if put inverted sometime window can't close. hmmm have to leave with it. Now I am admiring my Lotus made in Japan lighter. The Lotus Spartan feel very solid.</p>
<p>how would I get hold of a new flexible gas pipe because I need a new one</p>
<p>Sorry on the slowness - I've been working. Cheapest BBQ lighter you can find will do nicely for plenty of gas pipe. </p>
<p>i have repaired the spark in my lighter but the lid/cover of the hole(wich the flame comes out of) has fallen to peices i am not sure if these are the peices that i need to repair it any images on how to fix the lid/cover</p>
<p>Awesome, dude! Thanks for helping me fix this cool ronson lighter, there is some porcelain in the burner(pic2) area heating up on first ignition(pic1), then if you light it immediately with no spark its fine(pic3). Weird, but this is older technology.. </p>
hi. i just bought a romson jetline that look a lot like the one you have in the photos. and it sparks. the gas comes out trough the nozzle it lights. but dosent stay light. can u help me?

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Bio: A Northern Ireland based maker with a propensity to cause trouble and freshly constructed family.
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