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Nothing makes more of a scene when you hit the streets than flames from your skateboard. Whether you're pulling new tricks, or carving downhill, shooting a flame trail behind you is sure to turn heads and get people talking.

Activate a flaming trail when you ride with the push of a button. This skateboard carries a small fuel load on board and uses two switches to dispense and then light the fuel, leaving scorched pavement in your wake.

This relatively simple build has big results. Check out some video we shot around dusk, where the flames are really visible

Ready to make your own and have everyone running for their lives? Let's make!

Step 1: Supplies

There's not much to make your skateboard pump flames, a simple fuel pump and a few other parts from the hardware store is all it takes:

Including the skateboard this project was under $100. Some of the components listed here are only sold in sets, where I only needed 1 - the price estimate accounts for only what I used.

Step 2: Arrange Components

Before committing to mounting anything to the underside of the skateboard the largest components were arranged to see where things fit best.

The pump and tank were the most cumbersome items, and had to be strategically placed as to not interfere with the wheels and trucks of the skateboard, all while still having enough clearance so the board could roll unhindered.

When the major components were roughly placed I checked to make sure the vinyl tube could connect from the fuel tank to the pump without a sharp turn that would cause a kink.

Step 3: Attach Components

Once all the components looked like they would fit, Velcro tape was placed on the fuel tank and battery with corresponding Velcro tape in select locations on the underside of the board.

With the fuel tank and battery being removable, each could be safely disconnected from the board and refueled and recharged separately.

The fuel pump was heavy and required to be mechanically fastened to the board with screws.

Step 4: Operating Switches

I first thought I wanted to make the flame trail operable with a hand remote, but decided having everything contained within the board itself would be a cleaner look. So the switches to operate the fuel delivery and the spark generator were mounted on the front of the board (or back of the board, if you ride in that orientation).

After locating where I wanted my switches, I used a hole saw to create an opening for the arcade style button (which would operate the fuel delivery) and a smaller hole saw for the spark generator.

Both switches are designed to be mounted with the flange at the top, and the button part protruding. A corresponding locking nut can be attached from underneath, sandwiching the board in between and secure the switches in place.

The spark generator switch protrudes much higher than the arcade button, but there wasn't much I could do about that without opening up the sealed transformer case. I figured the less modifying I had to do the better, so I left the spark generator with it's larger button.

Step 5: Electronics

The electronics for this project are very easy. The fuel pump operates on 12V DC, a very common voltage which has lots of options for a power supply.

The pump wires were cut and the ends stripped. The battery had a plug which is used to both charge and supply power, the plug was cut off and the wires stripped.

The positive wire for the battery pack was labeled, so that was soldered to the pump. The negative wire was soldered to the foot switch, and then back to the pump and terminating at the battery.

Once all the wires were soldered I protected the connections with heat shrink.

Wires for the foot switch were neatly held in place to the underside of the skateboard with wire clips.

Step 6: Sparker Installation

The electric spark generator works by having two electrodes that create a spark when they are close enough to each other for the electricity to jump the gap. To hold these in the correct position relative to each other, and close enough to the ground to ignite the fuel, I made a metal bracket from a scrap piece of steel.

I cut a T-shape from thin gauge steel and drilled two openings for the electrodes, and one for the king pin screw. The T-shape was bent into a zig-zag shape so it could be positioned correctly when installed. The thin gauge steel was easily bent by hand, and will require refinement after it's attached to the board.

The electrodes were bolted to the T-shape and bent so the ends of the electrodes would be close together. After taking this picture I trimmed down the electrodes and made a smaller T-shape to keep things compact.

I noticed there was a tendency for the spark to jump the gap at any exposed areas before the electrodes, like where the spark wires met with the electrodes. I used heat shrink and electrical tape to isolate the sparks to just the ends of the electrodes where I wanted them.

Step 7: Fuel Tank

There's a few things going on with a fuel tank than just being a bottle to hold fuel. This tank has a cap with two openings in it, one for fuel transfer and the other to provide ventilation when the pump is engaged.

To prevent the fuel from coming out the ventilation opening a small kink was put into the vent pipe, the kink will restrict fuel from flowing directly out.

The tank I bought had a few lengths of brass tubes supplied with it, so you can chose what works for you and cut the tube to length.

Inside the tank there is a flexible tube with a weighted end that will drop to the bottom of the tank, allowing as much fuel to be pumped out as possible before running dry.

Step 8: Barbed Adapters

The fuel tank was 1/8" ID pipe and the pump was 1/4" ID, so an adapter was needed.

These adapters have a barbed end, when inserted inside the pipe the barbs catch on the inside of the pipe and are held in place.

A small length of 1/4" tube was put on the exit side of the pump and then another adapter was put on, which would push the fuel through the 1/8" end and make a tighter more pressurized spray.

Step 9: Layout

Here's how all the components fit together when installed on the board. The velcro on the fuel tank and battery make removing these components easy to remove and refuel/recharge.

As you can see from this photo, there's scorch marks near the nozzle and spark generator, the flames are intense and you need to keep moving while laying fire tracks.

The profile view shows there's enough clearance to ride unhindered, even for everyday riding. the components were securely held in place without any rattling around. Wheel size is an important factor to consider, and beefier wheels really helped with providing a few extra millimeters of height.

Step 10: Shred Flames!

Some minor tweaks were needed to get the flames to consistently light, like the spark igniter proximity to the ground. Now, this board is ready to light up the streets wherever I go!

Though it might seem extreme, there's little danger of anything going too wrong. The fuel tank isn't under pressure, and there's only 10 ounces of fuel on board at a time. As long as you're moving forward when the flames are activated, you're good to go!


Have you made a project based on the flamethrower skateboard? I want to see it! Share a picture of your fiery build in the comments below and get a free Pro Membership!

Happy Making! Be Safe.

<p>how can we implement a more powerful fuel pump there? anyone?</p>
<p>Lemme see... only 10 oz. fuel... .08 gal=9990.75 BTU for gas, more for other heavier hydocarbons. Just don't do this in the mall or in front of the fire station. On the plus side It might discourage panhandlers and potential street freaks w/ ill intent. Or former lovers etc.</p>
<p>This is awesome. I absolutely love the final GIF. Also, this is my formal request to see photos or videos of this thing in action at the skate park. I'm not sure how well it would handle a kickflip, but wouldn't it be awesome to see a few flame trails on the halfpipe or quarter pipe?</p>
<p>Nice Fire Contest project! I don't think I've seen it but I'd had a ball valve or something similar so there's no fuel on fire coming back trough the pump (just in case...)</p>
<p>Nothing spells safety like a skate board on fire! Lol some people must be bored ;-)</p>
<p>Smokey the Bear does not approve and don't be this guy...</p><p><a href="http://people.com/archive/wheel-of-misfortune-vol-39-no-23/">http://people.com/archive/wheel-of-misfortune-vol-...</a></p><p>So do you fill up on high-octane or regular?</p>
<p>Don't go to Idaho. Got it!</p>
<p>Go to Idaho. Stay for the roasted potatoes.</p>
Well, I don't know.....You would be in the right place to become a french-fry !
<p>Whenever using this contraption, be sure to first say: &quot;Hey watch this!! &quot; </p><p>LOL!</p>
With the camera running! lol
<p>just get a hover board if want to start a fire. ?</p>
LOL There it is!
<p>I can't condone this project. Skateboarding is dangerous. ;)</p>
What a great way too accomplish a dual amputation with cauterization in a few easy steps!
I Luv This!!! I'm a retired old punk fart so I'm gonna make one, wipe off all fingerprints and leave it on the doorstep of the neighbor stoner kid who called me a &quot;retired old punk fart a..hole&quot;. I know he'll try it out while standing still. ?
This is cool but a very bad idea. As you can see flames hit board and some boards are HIGHLY flamable. Not to mention denim.
<p>Denim is not all that inflammable.</p>
It's pretty inflammable if you're on top of the fire.<br><br>Fun fact for thise not in the know<br>Inflammable = Flammable
<p>I agree. Did you see his shoes? In the flames.</p>
<p>No farting.LOL</p>
<p>Make the setup larger, and make 2 of them. Mount then on a Delorean, go 88 mph, and then activate them.</p>
<p>&quot;there's little danger of anything going too wrong&quot;</p><p>Thanks for introducing me to &quot;too wrong&quot; which is right between &quot;meh wrong&quot; and &quot;oh god please stop wrong&quot; on the scale of wrongness ;)</p>
<p>Yes please. So flame. Wow thrower. Much skateboard cool.</p><p>Me likey</p>
<p>Now, what could possibly go wrong here?...</p><p>Besides giving anti-skateboarders (oh, yeah, they're out there...)yet another reason to react negatively and maybe call some authorities on you,</p><p>The ICBU is no place to spend your summer. Even if the scars are cool.</p>
<p>+1</p>
<p>...there also seems a good chance you could have severe failure of the rear truck. The truck bushing could melt, as well as the spacers between the board and the truck...all plastic. It seems like this would be much safer if you had flames leaving the back, with all fuel burning and not leaving burning fuel on the board and on the ground. </p>
<p>Haha that's crazy. Good work :)</p>
Very nicely done. I love the design and your instructions are quite clear and well put together. <br><br>I can relate to some of the feedback about the *DANGER!* aspect of this design. I received a ton of the same when I posted my Propane Pop Gun Instructable, especially when other people made how to videos of my design that went viral. I build a lot of flame effects and have considered posting more Instructables but a number of my peers within the fire performance community have voiced strong opinions otherwise. They make a strong case. I may post another anyway. Building this kind of stuff is really fun and not terribly difficult to do so safely. <br><br>Anyway, I really enjoyed this. I would love to be able to cram it all under a OneWheel+ but I don't think there would be enough room.
<p>What's the fuel? I don't think you mention it.</p>
He shows it in the video. Just basic lighter fluid such as Zippo or Ronsonol. Which BTW is naphtha and much cheaper by the gallon at any home center.
<p>Nice idea... but I think the fuel outlet and igniters need moving further back so you don't keep flaming the wheels.</p>
<p>I did not see where you mention what kind of fuel you are using. I am assuming gasoline. If so, you might want to mention that you need to make sure the components of the fuel tank are rated for gasoline. </p><p>Most people use these fuel tanks for glow fuel powered aircraft. The rubber stopper included with the normal tank system will not tolerate gasoline. You can get that same tank system with a stopper that will handle gasoline. But you need to make sure you get the right system.</p>
<p>Brave website. Enter the lawsuit.</p>
<p>Both scary and awesome, that's some crazy-quality work right there :-)</p>
Yes!! Nice gifs too
<p>Nice!!!</p>
<p>This is some awesome stuff!</p>

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Bio: I'm Mike and I make crazy things at Instructables HQ in San Francisco. Follow me and try a few of my projects for yourself!
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