Introduction: Flat Pack Scrap Wood IPad Stand
The finished product (above)
The need for a quick and dirty iPad stand popped up, so I took a couple pieces of scrap Plyboo and whooped something up.
The TechShop in Menlo Park (www.TechShop.com)has a lot of tools, but this project only requires the SawStop tablesaw and the Jet bandsaw.
Only about 20 minutes are required from your mortal existence to make this. :-)
Step 1: Tools and Materials Used:
(1) Table saw
(1) Band saw
(1) Small square
(1) Square (combination, small framing, or other square)
(1) Pen or pencil
(2) pieces of wood; preferably plywood or Plyboo; approximately 6" x 9" (you'll have to convert those English Units to metric if you want to be all scientific :-)
(1) Brain (with PFC option installed and functioning)
Step 2: Measuring & Marking
Now, down to business :-)
I interchange the term Board and the term Piece; they mean the same thing :-)
I presume the orientation of the boards to be ordered or laid out in a similar fashion
to how they will be oriented in the finished product: as you face them, the long sides
going away from you and the "front" being the end nearest to you
The pieces are both the same size: 6 inches X 9 inches, by 1/2 an inch thick.
The basic design has a channel cut across the horizontal piece, near the front edge, and a chunk cut from the front-center to allow room for the data/charge connector. Just behind the channel, there is a slot cut out of the board, parallel to the channel; it goes *half* the way across the board; this is where the vertical board will mate to this board. There is a tilt backward (away) of 20Ë
The vertical board has a slot cut half way through it, corresponding to the slot in the horizontal board. Additionally, I cut a 30Ë angle on the bottom (the foot) of the vertical board, so as to facilitate stability of the vertical piece (it allows more contact with the surface your iPad stand will be placed upon).
Step 3: Cutting
First, the horizontal board:
Make the iPad Foot Channel:
Cut a channel: Using the table saw, cut a channel (or slot) 1 inch from the front ( the 6" wide, narrow side) edge of a piece of the wood, it should go all the way across the 6 inch width of the board. I made this channel 1/4 inch deep but it could be as little as an 1/8th inch deep...feel free to experiment :-)
I cut this channel via 4 passes with the table saw, offsetting the next pass by about an 1/8th inch, so that the total width across the channel is about 1/2 inch(mine is 7/16 but I recommend a smidge wider); this could be a little narrower, but the extra width allows the iPad to rest in the bottom of the channel (remember there is a 20Ë declination backward, so the cut channel is narrower relative to the orientation of the iPad). note: the offsetting cuts need to be made toward the BACK of the board
Make the Mating Slot:
Mark the right hand top edge of the board at 1.5" and 2" from the front edge; this is where you will cut the mating slot. Mark the middle of the board at those measurements too; so as to know where to stop the tablesaw.
Set the table saw angle to 20Ë and make the cuts; be sure to stop the cut about a 1/4-1/2 inches PRIOR to the middle marks; POWER DOWN THE SAW...once the blade has STOPPED, flip the board over and carefully align the tablesaw to your previous cuts. Power up the saw, and cut to that same 1/4-1/2 inches from the center. after powering down the saw, go to the band saw and set the table to 20Ë and finish cut the end of the slot, removing the material in the middle of the slot.
Now the Vertical Board:
Make the Mating Slot:
Mark the board on its LEFT side, two inches from the bottom (front) and also at 2 and 1/2 inches. put corresponding marks in the middle of the board (to demarcate the stopping point for the slot). Set the tablesaw to 20Ë just like when making the Mating Slot for the horizontal piece. Rinse and repeat: cut this slot the same way as before, and clean with the bandsaw as well (at 20Ë).
Make the Foot Angle:
Adjust the tablesaw to 30Ë and cut *just enough* of the bottom (near) end, to create an angled surface (this will actually sit flat on the table/surface you place the iPad stand on).
Back to the Horizontal board:
Now, to finish it off, you'll need to cut a slot in the very front of the horizontal piece, to allow the iPad to sit flat (in the vertical orientation) when the data/charge connector is attached; Measure from the center-front of the horizontal board, 5/8 inch BOTH directions (from the center); thus creating a 1 and 1/4 inch wide slot mark. Reset the tablesaw to vertical (0Ë) and then *carefully* cut along the marks you just made; stop the tablesaw when you just *start* to cut into the iPad channel. Now, use the bandsaw to finish cut the connector slot.
Step 4: Fitment
They should look *something like this* (above)
Now its time to gently trial fit the two boards together.
If they are a little snug; take a *TINY* amount of material from one side of the Mating Slot, on *each* of the pieces, then trial fit it again (rinse and repeat as necessary). If it fits, then *p00f* you are done :-)
Step 5: Lessons Learned; Aka: Improvements I Recommend!
The slot for the data cable dramatically weakens the lower board (the "shelf"). I **HIGHLY** recommend using a drill or a router to cut an elongated hole for the connector, rather than completely removing the channel. To accommodate the data cable in this "optimized" design, I think I would add a separate small channel on one side of the lower shelf, to allow the cable to lay neatly. An alternative would be to cut a slightly deeper channel into the forwardmost edge of the iPad holding channel, wherein the connector cable could lay just below the iPad itself. Otherwise you'd have to fish the connector up through the hole each time.
Additionally, I recommend a 1/4" roundover bit in the router, to make nice rounded edges.
This quick and simple iPad stand should take about 10-20 minutes to maximum, to fabricate. I hope you like it :-)
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.