Flat Hook Tie Down





Introduction: Flat Hook Tie Down

About: I'm the one who should not handle or possess anything hazardous or other wise deemed dangerous due to the fact I will inadvertently accidentally injure myself some way.

Ever had to strap something down with no real way to place the hooks? Specially when the are the flat hooks?
I ran into this while strapping a piece of equipment to a pallet. So present this to you....... basicly making a 'master link'. Quick and easy.

Step 1: What Is Needed

2 strips of of 3/16 (at least thickness) metal. I found these at the local hardware store in the gate area that were predrilled. I bought 2 because I needed 3 ' master links' . They were 12 inches long, I cut them to 3 1/2, giving 1/2 inch either side of the existing holes.
Some 5/16 grade 8 bolts 4 inches long. Length depends on width of the flat hook.
Some grade 8 nylock nuts. Nylock is the plastic looking insert in the nuts the helps lock the nut.
And some washers.

Step 2: Forgot to Take a Picture

Well I was in the heat of getting it done and forgot to take a picture of the piece before installing. But here is a description:
add washer to bolt x 2
insert bolt into drilled strip x2
add second strip
add washers to both bolts
add nuts x 2, but don't tighten them yet.

Step 3: Strapping It Up.

Place the hooks in the 'master link' once you have the straps situated. Add a little tension, I SAID A LITTLE, to the ratchet straps, THEN tighten the nuts on the link. If you got the right length of bolts the strips should tighten right against the hooks. Now tighten the straps as needed.
Disclaimer: This is not meant for towing or hoisting any heavy objects. Would not recommend for long haul final tie down. But it will do in a pinch.
Time spent : 10 minutes for cutting and set up.
Cost: roughly $5 for the parts.



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    You could easily make this with a lot of safety margin!... Choose stainless steel for the sides and metric socket head cap screws for the bolts. Use steel spacers to hold the two sides apart, so that you're not pulling on the bolts themselves. This could be a very rigid assembly.

    3 replies

    Thanks! was not sure of the grade of steel for the sides. If I have to repeat this, rather becomes a frequent thing, I will go deeper into making a better quality and safer product.

    If you wanted SAE, you can obviously source SAE hardware.

    The reason I suggested metric is this... Bolt grade. Metric socket head caps screws are the usually highest strength in commonly available bolts.


    ohhh and as for the socket cap head bolt..... yeah.... as much as the company I work for uses them ( 85% of what holds our machines together, SAE ...not the it matters), just didn't have the length in the diameter I needed.

    Sweet Idea! I'll mave to make a steel version of this; Thanks for the share !

    1 reply

    This was all steal, just was not sure of the grade of the sides. Strong enough that in the vise and with 15" crescent at the other end, it did not bend easily with my 200 lbs bouncing on it. Thanks!

    If you're looking into making something a little more permanent, I strongly suggest staying away from stainless or aluminum. As neither are exceptionally strong compared to cold rolled steel. I'd fab up similar sides and connect them with the largest diameter grade 5 or 8 bolts possible for your tie-down ends. Or given the time use bar or rod long enough to pass through the sides and weld them on the outside to help maintain a tight fit between the sides of your shackle and strap ends.

    1 reply

    I agree with your suggestion of choice for materials. This was 8 am, get it out the door 8 :20 am. Thank you for the suggestions, if this happens again, I will definitely use them.