These picnic tables are each made from a single sheet of plywood, take about 30 minutes to mark out, and about 1 hour to cut out. The sanding and painting is down to the individual, so I'll not quote any times for these two processes, but I have finished mine with a combination of wood preserver on the undersides and gloss paint on the topsides .
A short video of me assembling and disassembling one of my picnic tables: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xATfmOkLh7Q&list=UU1iX9q83W978_o37wLxqkvw&index=2&feature=plcp
You will need a copy of the plans, which you can download and save from here:
http://familyfun.go.com/crafts/picnic-table-to-go-709134/
To mark out the plywood, you'll need: a rule or tape measure, a pencil, a square, and a straight edge of about 4 feet long, or slightly longer; a planed 4 X 1 piece of timber just over 4 feet long, or a length of steel are ideal.
I have used a cordless jigsaw for the rounded cuts, and cordless circular saw for the long straight cuts, but a jigsaw will be more than adequate for all the cutting requirements.
Pay close attention to the plans, as they follow both a Centre Line set of dimensions, and Accumulated dimensions from the bottom edge of the sheet of plywood. The only really tricky part of the plans and the dimensioning is ensuring that you follow the accumulated dimensions correctly and mark out accurately.
Note: I have used 18 mm thick shuttering plywood rather than the recommended 1" thick plywood: so if you follow my lead here, you'll need to reduce the joint let ins from 1" to 18 mm.
watch?v=xiE9DxjqyJ8103 KBStep 1:
You will obtain a good quality of cut if you use a jigsaw blade that cuts on both the up stroke and the down stroke.
Step 2: The cutting order.
1) Cut out the table top.
2) Cut out the seat supports
3) Cut out the seat tops
Step 3: Cutting the detailling
When these are done you can begin cutting all the curved detailing for the table ends and centre support on the remainder of the sheet; it is easier to do this now before you cut these components from the sheet.
Step 5: This step is optional:
In my opinion they are not necessary near the top of the table end, but would be better placed lower down the panel.
I have used a 2 inch diameter holesaw and a jigsaw to cut out the hand grips.
Step 6: Time to cut out the slip joints
Step 7:
Here is a link to the additional instructable on how to make the additional feet for the picnic tables shown in the photo:http://www.instructables.com/id/Additional-feet-for-Picnic-tables/
I painted two of my six tables bright yellow to use at the many shows and festivals that we attend, but that was a mistake as it attracts many flying insects. We now have them painted a more subdued gloss Yellow (Ral 1028) which does not attract the insects. The Cargo Cycles logo and contact details have been applied to the table top, which has turned out to be a rather good way of making the public aware of my business .All six flat pack plywood picnic tables and two 25 X 10 marquees fit into the back of one of our electric assist Pedi-vans with room to spare .... a great way to haul stuff around the on the show grounds and festival sites.

























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However I cannot find the plans and have trawled through the website link. If I get to see the plans I shall certainly have a go at this fine 'ible.
If you scroll down to the bottom of this web page, you will find a (free) downloadable PDF version of the plans http://overthegate.myfreeforum.org/sutra268083.php#268083
Thanks
http://familyfun.go.com/crafts/picnic-table-to-go-709134/
I have now up dated the link on the main page of this instructable.
Regards
Gareth
As mentioned in the original Instructable I now have six of these tables for use at the various shows and festivals we attend, and I replace two of the tables with new ones each year.The old tables are donated to my church's scout group for their use at camps, fetes and fund raisers, etc.
I have now slightly modified how I build the tables, using an off cut of ply wood and a 4 inch diameter hole saw to make a plywood plug which I quarter.This is glued and pinned in place under the table tops, and the seat tops. If you use this method under the seat tops the long cut out, and tenon are not required in the seat supports, and it prevents clothing being trapped in the slip joint gaps.
Here is the finished item using yacht varnish (UV resistant, hard wearing and weatherproof).
I like the circular finishing and using the same for the bench seats. It is a simpler finish than the cut outs.
This was my first 'big' project and I am pleased with how well it turned out. Which is a testament to the extremely clear 'ible and great tips included.
TO others, if you haven't started yours yet, do it today.
Thanks again.
BTW, I have had loads of excellent feedback on my build. I point everyone this way.
Now all that is left is the fine finishing and varnishing. I was thinking of painting but have been convinced to varnish it.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Also, that "cargo cycle" is AWESOME!!! Do you have a link to the web site for it?
Alas I do not, but I will take a photo of one of the tables flat packed and strapped tomorrow and then add it to the end of the instructable.