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Take a dollar-store "flickering" LED candle, add an AVR ATtiny13 and a little code, and you get an LED candle that looks almost real.
A thumbnail seemed to be the best tool for this job. The casing isn't glued. There's just a friction-fit post that goes into a receiving hole in the...
The LED, connected to its base, is friction-fit into the base of the plastic candle flame. Twist slightly and pull to remove. Make note of the wire ...
We won't be using the original circuit, which is a low-side switch that just flickers the LED off for a few milliseconds periodically. Carefully unso...
We'll be cutting off the unused pins of the ATtiny13, so be sure to program the chip before you do that! I use a USBtinyISP programmer and a SparkFu...
Since we're only using pins 4, 5 and 8, trim off the rest of the pins with a set of flush cutters.
The red (positive) lead was cut in an earlier step. Now you will strip about 3/16 of an inch of insulation from each of the free ends of the red lead...
Vinyl electrical tape makes a good candidate for insulating the exposed leads. Cut a narrow strip and slip it between the chip body and the pins, the...
Now is a good time to install the battery and check your work.
Re-insert the LED into the bottom of the plastic flame. Tuck the chip into the case where it won't wedge against the on-off switch. Finally, put the...
If everything has worked well, you now have a flickering "flame" atop your LED candle. Brag to your friends. The units I bought came 2 to a package,...
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Posted:Sep 3, 2008
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