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Here is a project that is great for any small shop. Double the effectiveness of your floor space with this Flip Top Tool stand. It can hold any number of benchtop tools including planers, mitersaws, sanders, drill presses, etc.

Tools:

Tablesaw (or circular saw)
Miter saw
Cordless drill
Router
Pocket hole jig

Materials:

1 sheet 4'x8' 3/4" plywood
2 1x2 8' pine/poplar boards
Casters
Full extension drawer slides
Various mounting hardware and screws

Read the instructable here and you can also get plans with measured drawings over at my website: http://fixthisbuildthat.com/diy-flip-top-tool-stand-plans/

Step 1: Cut and Prepare the Sides, Bottom and Shelf

Cut two side to 30" x 21-1/2" and a bottom and shelf both at 27" x 21-1/2". Drill pockets holes on the underside of the bottom and shelf to connect to the sides.

Drill a 3/4" hole centered 2-5/8" down from the top of each side. This will hold the steel bar used to rotate the top. If you clamp them together it makes keeping the hole aligned easier

Cut 2 slots in each side for the flip top locking hardware. The slots are 3/8″ wide, 1-1/2″ long and 2-5/8″down from the top. I used a router and a straight edge to do this.

Step 2: Assemble the Base

Attach the bottom to the sides with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Use a 4-1/2" spacer and mount the shelf 4-1/2" above the bottom shelf using pocket screws.

Cut a 27" x 4-1/2" back and install it on the back of the drawer cavity.

Step 3: Build and Mount the Drawer

Cut the drawer parts to size, 2 sides at 20″ x 4″ and a front and back at 24-1/2″ x 4″.

Drill pocket holes on the ends of the front and back parts and assemble the drawer as shown.

Cut a 26" x 20" drawer bottom and glue and nail/staple the bottom onto the drawer.

Mount 20" full extension drawer slides in the drawer cavity per manufacturer instructions and install the drawer.

Cut a 26-7/8″ x 4-3/8″ false drawer front and attach it to the drawer with 1-1/4" pocket screws from inside the drawer.

Step 4: Add Casters

Flip the assembly over and add casters to the corners. I used 4" double locking casters.

Step 5: Cut and Assemble the Flip Top

Cut two pieces of 3/4″ ply to 27″ x 21-1/2″ and cut four pieces of 1×2 to 27″. Layout a 3/4″ wide section that runs 27″ across the center of the top, this will be where the steel rod goes.

Attach a 1x2 on each side of the channel you just laid out. Use 1-1/4" screws countersunk into the 1x2's.

Cut 5/16" open mortises 1-1/2" deep on the ends of the other 1x2s. Attach them to the outer edges of the top.

Cut four 1x2 pieces to 7-3/8" for blocking and fill in the outer edges between the 1x2's you just installed.

Install the other side of the top with 1-1/4" screws.

Step 6: Install the Locking Hardware

Drill 1" holes, 1/2" deep in each of the 4 corners of the top on both sides (8 in all). The holes are 1" from the sides and 3/4" from the front or back.

Next drill a 3/8" hole through the center of each of the recessed holes.

The locking hardware is a 5/16" 3-1/4" eye bolt held in place by a 3/8" bolt. Run the 3/8" bolt through the holes you drilled in the corners and through the eye of the eye bolt. Lock the 3/8" bolt into place with a lock nut.

Install a fender washer and a start knob on the end of the eye bolt which will lock down on the sides.

Step 7: Install the Top

Clamp the top into place so the channel for the pipe and the holes in the sides are aligned. Run a 3/4" steel pipe through the assembly. Cut the pipe so there is 3/8" sticking out from each side. Drill a pilot hole through the top and through the rod and secure the rod in place with a 1-1/4" screw on each end.

Cut 2 pipe blocks 4" x 2-1/2" and drill a 3/4" hole 1/2" deep in the center of each piece. Attach these pieces to the side of the cart to cover the exposed pipes.